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Bronte Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Lee McDougall Jamie Spencer Damien Haines Marcus Loane Stuart McElroy Michael Frost Tom Molloy Dav Myl

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Bronte 14 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: -33.910234, 151.270069

summary

Rusty old sea cliff.

description

All bolts are rusty and death, and the rock probably not much better.

access issues

The coast path has lookouts facing the north side of the cliff and a large potential audience.

approach

Get to the seaward end of Boundary Rd, Waverley, where it turns left and into Ocean St, adjacent to the Waverley Cemetery.

To access the south end of the cliff, walk down the rough fisherman's track at the end of the cul-de-sac in the cemetery at the sign "Bronte-Coogee Aquatic Reserve".

For the north end, walk north along the coast path, hop the fence, and descend the south side of the bay below the cemetery reconstructed with large sawn sandstone blocks and anti-erosion features.

ethic

Survive!

history

Perhaps not the finest legacy of 80-90s sea cliff development.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Flexitime

Start: 7m left of Mail Sorter.

  1. Step off small boulder, right to small cave, over roof on bad flake, right along lip to corner, up wall and roof to crappy BB.

  2. Delicately up left.

25 Trad 25m, 2
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Mail Sorter

Start on right of roof crack, left into roof and layback out.

23 Trad 20m
3 Having Babies

Halfway up Mail Sorter then right over roof and up wall.

24 Trad 18m
4 Men Only

Start: In corner right of Japanese Route. Up then traverse along lip.

22 Trad 20m
5 Japanese Route

Chossy corner.

14 Trad 12m
6 Not Wot It Seams

Start: On blunt arete 5m right of Japanese Route behind giant block.

Past BR to ledge, left around overhang then wall. Rusted bolt and cam belay back well back.

15 Trad 18m
7 Macarena

Start as for "Not Wot It Seams". Up to BR, then up and traverse right for 10m to DBB.

18 Sport 20m
8 Wrinkle City

Start: 25m right of Mail Sorter and 3m left of arete. Up and slightly right to roofs and up.

23 Trad 18m
9 Poste Haste

Up Wrinkle City to traverse line at 4m, right and up wall just left of arete, delicately to break, right around arete and up to rusted out belay.

21 Trad 20m
10 Poste Haste Direct Start

Up undercut arete past rusted bolt.

23 Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Hook, Line and G String

Start: Off boulder to north facing wall 15m right of Poste Haste.

Apparently complicated epics involving pre-clipped draws and bat men.

23 Sport 18m
12 Mal's Corner

Start: A bit right of "Hook, Line and G String". Short poxy overhung corner followed by even poxier headwall.

15 Trad 10m
13 Cracksville

Start: 3m right of "Mal's Corner". Up and left over horrible sandy breaks.

19 Trad 10m

The following climb is located just north of the gully.

15 A

Located just past the arete on the northern side of the gully. The bolts were presumably put in by absqueelers.

Up over the obvious wind blown cave then up the (sometimes damp) wall above. Two BBs for the belay. Top rope only.

13 Top rope 12m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
13 A Top rope 12m
14 Japanese Route Trad 12m
15 Mal's Corner Trad 10m
Not Wot It Seams Trad 18m
18 Macarena Sport 20m
19 Cracksville Trad 10m
21 Poste Haste Trad 20m
22 Men Only Trad 20m
23 Hook, Line and G String Sport 18m
Mail Sorter Trad 20m
Poste Haste Direct Start Trad 18m
Wrinkle City Trad 18m
24 Having Babies Trad 18m
25 Flexitime Trad 25m, 2
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