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Description

Although Rosa Gully sports some pretty big cliffs and easy access it's a remarkably unpopular crag, especially when you consider that Diamond Bay (which is right next door) is very popular. This is probably because the rock in Rosa Gully is damp most of the year (particularly during summer or when an easterly is blowing) and all of the fixed protection rotted away a millenia ago. Be that as it may, there are reputedly some pretty good routes down there, and there is certainly potential for new ones for those willing to put in a bit of effort. There are enough bolts for five highines, with all the bolts in excellent condition. For full details see the guide for this area: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1DUY4XULolttRgPqUkUi_z7cH5oTf6QtkWctdvA4bw4A/edit

Approach

Rosa Gully is located just north of Diamond Bay and parking for both the crags is the same. From the carpark follow the footpath north through the park. At the north eastern end of the park head over to the fence where it creates a small inward corner. Climb over the fence just to the right of the warning sign. From here pick up the track through the trees leading down into the gully. This track heads into the northern branch (the gully has two branches) and continues into the main gully. Scramble down the main gully and towards the water where the existing climbs are located. An obvious feature is the ladder at the mouth of the gully on the northern side. This leads up to the Walk Around Ledge which continues north for several hundred metres and where some of the climbs start from. It's worthwhile taking a wander along the ledge even if you don't plan on climbing since it's quite interesting. The routes are described from left to right (from the southern side to the northern side) facing the cliff. If you're prepared to do so, it would be easier to rap in from the south side of the gully using the copious amount of highlining ring bolts and carrots in place and collect your anchors on the way out. There are probably more ring bolts on top of the cliff than on it's face, so finding them is no issue. Access to the mouth of the gully vanishes when the waves are rough.

History

The area was opened in the 1970s with a couple of routes from Mike Law, Gary Eggans, and Matt Dunstan, and substantially developed by Mike Law in the 1980s. The area has seen some re-bolting, but all of the climbs need new bolts before it will see any level of popularity.

Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
5
44
34m
1
15
22
35m
2