Topo #9682

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Route Grade Popularity Style
2.1 ** Chicken of the Sea

Line on the left hand side (north) at the base of the steep narrow part of the gully. By car at base of steep section, 50m from the gully exit to the sea. Up on jugs and cross left onto ledge. up to ramp where you can pull on crimps or step right and to a hands off freakish slab. Then up easily (extend extend 5th Ubolt) through ledge and second ramp to anchor.

19 Sport 25m, 11 Unlink route
2.3 ** Pornflakes - The second coming

Pumpy! Extended with 20m of new climbing. About 40m back up the gully from the sea and 20m R of Rainbow Connection, below a chossy left tending flake. Up the flake moving left past 2 ledges. At top go right to hidden flake at anchor. Careful lowering and cleaning as it's very diagonal (leave 1st draw clipped then climb up and remove it) First crack was done as easy trad, extended by Eugene. Long draws will cut drag. Originally 'Pornflakes' - Mikl's old rusted carrot can be seen on the first obvious ledge.

18 Sport 30m, 14 Unlink route
2.4 * Vril

"A ficticious natural force". Retrobolted and much saner. Awkward moves all the way, origionally led ground up on natural gear. About 12m right of P, and about 18m left of the ladder, on the left edge of an obvious orange wall with a crack running up the centre (SS). Follow the cracks to a small roof, then head right and up to the top. Mikl Law 1980's

20 Sport 12m, 5 Unlink route
2.9 *** Tourist Route

Nice rock and gear. Start below the corner 5m right of TC and 3m left of ladder. 1. 15m (16) Up the corner (sling runner possible), onto 2nd big ledge and continue up cracks (crux) heading left at top (avoid the super easy corner on left). Lower off at 15m 2. 30m (15) Not worth doing this pitch, Continue up and slightly left on ledges.

16 Trad 15m Unlink route
2.13 Obscurity

The following two climbs start below the walk around ledge. 10m right and 15m below P (just left of the obvious flake of ACF). 1. 15m (19) Drift up and left up wall and flake to the walk around ledge. 2. 18m (18) Head up the corner and step right to the arete. Head up this to a ledge with a crappy BB to the right. 3. 25m (18) Head right underneath the flake and layback up it. At the top head right to the corner and up to the belay. 4. 20m Continue up the corner then step left and continue to top. Mikl Law 1980's

19 Trad 78m 4 Unlink route
2.15 *** The Last Wave

Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. The walk in down Rosa Gully and up the ladder and ledges is nice, you can also rap in on a 50 m rope from the top if you want to suss out the crux moves (leave a rope fixed, hard to pull down and it’ll probably end up in the ocean). Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays. Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp. 1. 19 28m Up ramp to weird mantel then up and left to belay. 2. 18 12 m Leftwards below choss and up to belay 3. 20 10m Up to roof and a few stiff moves.

20 Sport 50m 3 Unlink route
1.1 ** Pox

About 3m right of the arete at the mouth of the gully, opposite the ladders, on 2nd biggest boulder. Clip 1st bolt with a screwgate and step left and up past another 8 Ubolts to a loweroff. 1st pitch retrobolted 2014 There is the old trad 2nd pitch:- 2. 10m Up and over roof (17ish) Gary Eggins 1970s

18 Sport 25m, 9 Unlink route
1.3 ** Pocks

Start on biggest boulder. Up the ledge and step right to crack then onwards through roofs. Better to be short or tall on this

22 Sport 30m Unlink route
1.4 Matt's Climb

Reasonable trad climbing, start 4m R of the biggest boulder. Hard start to Ubolt then up cracks and breaks to ledge at 4 m (this is a new direct start, the old route traversed in easily from atop the big boulder). Up rounded corner, double ropes help as there's a god crack 1m right. Belay possible on ledge (Ubolts and a big cam). Head up and right up wall, (Ubolt, carrot) and up a short dirty corner (Ubolt) step left to next corner under a roof. Head left (Ubolt) under the roof then continue up crack, Ubolt and traverse right to belay. Short finish scramble.

20 Mixed 40m, 5 Unlink route
1.8 *** Funky Moves

Interesting moves the whole way. This climbs the corners on the left edge of the big cave some 13m R of Matts Climb. Start up irritating slab or walk R and up into the cave and walk left to the line, step down to bolt belay. Up the line to a double U lower off (or topout to a 3 ring anchor 10m higher over the top). It replaces an old sandbag 15 (!) Jurds on Toast which probably climbed the start a bit further left then continued up the corner past 2 carrots (still rusting).

20 Sport 30m, 12 Unlink route

Topo #1748 - North Side showing the cliff access ledge

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Route Grade Popularity Style
2.15 *** The Last Wave

Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. The walk in down Rosa Gully and up the ladder and ledges is nice, you can also rap in on a 50 m rope from the top if you want to suss out the crux moves (leave a rope fixed, hard to pull down and it’ll probably end up in the ocean). Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays. Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp. 1. 19 28m Up ramp to weird mantel then up and left to belay. 2. 18 12 m Leftwards below choss and up to belay 3. 20 10m Up to roof and a few stiff moves.

20 Sport 50m 3 Unlink route

Topo #1747 - Looking out to sea through Rosa Gully from the descent

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Topo #1750 - Rosa Gully Access (drawn by Mikl Law)

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