The Gap Mostly trad climbing24 routes in area
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Amazing rock architecture, but because of suicides, police get called if anyone sees you climbing there. The hidden routes around Dueling biceps are pretty safe from prying eyes and deserve to be more
Duelling Biceps Area An impressive area offering a fine set of hideous cranks. To find this area, continue south for about 100m past Poet's Corner, until you can see an impressive undercut wall, just south of a big zawn (about 80m south of where you are standing). Duelling Biceps and Fat Action are located about 20m south again, on a smooth brown wall with a 10m slab at the top. This is also where the rap station is located (3 BBs), at the southern end (towards the right, facing out) of the slabs. A 35m rap will deposit you on the initial belay ledge for DB and FA, or you can rap in another 10m then swing right to access the other climbs. Just left of the arete, about 8m right of FF. ABout 30m R of the abseil.
20m (23) Up and right (BR) then up and left (BR) to flake. Continue up to rounded hold (BR) then head diagonally right (BRs) to crack. Up to ledge.
20m (25) Right out roof then left over bulge and continue left (stance). Blast over roof and up wall above to belay in V corner (BBs and cams).
20m (21) Head diagonally right to slabby corner (as for FF).
FA: Michael Law & giles bradbury, 1983
The second pitch is a sweet traverse along the lip of a roof. 9m right of LGM, below big corner.
25m (20) Follow the corner straight up then step right to belay as for WM P1.
20m (24) Move up to traverse line, then an excellent and pants filling traverse left (6 manky BRs). Step down to double bolt belay. Possible to rap off from here.
20m (22) Move 2m left and punch through roof (BR - hard to clip). Head 4m right along traverse line then move up (BR) and right to belay at far left hand end of ledge (double BBs).
30m (16) Dangerous. Head up (rust stain that might have once been a BR) past ledge to corner. Follow to top.
FA: Michael Law & giles bradbury, 1980
Variant second pitch to B. Follow the lower traverse line (BR then cams) to belay as for B P2. Much safer than any of the pitches on B.
FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980
25m (27) Up Boyzone corner for 10m then step left (BR). Through roof to flake (BR) then up to break. Move right and up to roof (BR), then launch out big roof to BR on lip. Continue up to belay on BRs on B P2.
20m (27) Over rooves and up (BRs and a large cam) to belay on ledge as for B P3.
30m As for B P4.
FA: Michael Law & giles bradbury, 1985
1m right of D. An old Giles Bradbury project (so it must be pretty bloody hard!).
great climbing, needs a rebolt and the horizontal shattered pillar reinforced or removed. Start at the ledge at the bottom of the abseil a few meters R of Duelling Biceps. Up to BR, then move right and crank straight up wall (BRs).
FA: Stuart Macelroy, 1989
mega-classic! This sea-cliff classic has now been re-bolted with stainless rings and is somewhat more feasible. Despite adding some 11 bolts over what was used on the first ascent, it was still necessary to add 3 or 4 grades. The climb is high above the sea so isn't too affected by bad conditions. Gear needed: draws, a lead rope, an abseil rope and jumars (for escape, the sea-level traverse out is not nice), and maybe 2 plates to back up the belay. Access: Walk north along the Gap track from Old South Head Rd. About 40m north of Jacobs ladder gully cross the fence at the highest point and find bolts on the south end of a small 30 degree slab below. It's easy to see this by walking another 80 m North and looking back south at the little slab and the wall below. There is a well hidden cave at the top of the abseil to leave gear. It’s worth cleaning the holds and clipping all the gear as you abseil (stop on a ledge 10m above the sea), next person down pulls the rope up and raps, toss end in to the person on the ledge. The first pitch is sandy to start but soon improves, then long and around vertical (except for the steep bits) and leads to an airy hanging belay. The second pitch has a sandy mantel, a bridging corner and an easy roof finish added by Neil Monteith this century. Mikl, Nic Collier 1985? Mostly trad
FA: Michael Law & Nic Collier, 1984