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Summary

Amazing rock architecture, but because of suicides, police get called if anyone sees you climbing there. The hidden routes around Dueling biceps are pretty safe from prying eyes and deserve to be more

Description

Climbing is banned in this area - motion activated cameras will automatically call police.

Access issues

Climbing is banned in this area - motion activated cameras will automatically call police.

Approach

Climbing is banned in this area - motion activated cameras will automatically call police.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
24 ** Big Dipper Trad 55m

Start in the little corner past arete, 40m right of CoB. Not accessible in big seas. easily seen from the south.

  1. 20m (24) Up the corner, head right (manky BRs) then through roof and up wall. Continue past small ledge (manky BR) to large ledge.

  2. 35m (20) Walk 4m left then climb diagonally left and up to top.

FA: Michael Law, 1978

2
20 * Cruise or Bruise Mixed 42m, 2

Classic bridging corner in middle of steep wall facing the lookouts. SOme old bolts but good natural gear.

  1. 30m (21) A hard but well protected crux to get established in the corner (2 good BRs). Cruise up the steep corner to a small belay stance.

  2. 12m Either continue up the line (loose), or traverse right around the arete and up the short wall (no pro).

FA: Michael Law, 1976

3
23 Snivelling Grooves Trad 45m

15m left of CoB.

  1. 15m (22) Up flake and wall then head left, up and back right to the belay.

  2. 30m (23) Head right to roof then up to flake. Follow flake left to a stance, then move right and up a variety of cracks to the top. Take a large cam.

FA: Michael Law, 1978

4
24 Oblique Stress Trad 45m

Start under roofed corner, 5m left of SG.

  1. 15m Up corner (manky BRs) then traverse left under the roof to a crack. Follow this (getting harder) then belay on the right (BBs).

  2. 20m (24) Head 4m right to arete. Up this then move left to crack. Up the wall, through a bulge (BR) to belay below roof.

  3. 10m Follow the jam crack left through the roof.

FA: Michael Law, 1981

5
22 Sabotage Mixed 18m, 4

3m left of JC, at the base of the abseil. Up (BR) to corner. Traverse left around arete (BR) then up the wall above (BR).

FA: Glenn Robbins, 1980

6
23 * Jen's Climb Trad 15m

The Cove The small southern cove, located about 100m south of the main wall (separated from it by a small buttress). It's possible to walk around underneath the buttress, but you stand a good chance of getting wet. It's better to jump the fence at the look out, walk 5m right (facing out) to a large bolt. Carefully solo down the corner below this to a large ledge with a rap station. It's a good idea to leave the rap rope in place here as well. Start below a thin crack 2m left of the right arete of the cove. Up (manky BR) to gain the crack. Follow this for 2m then move right to the arete and up.

FA: Michael Law, 1978

7
25 Shall We Dance? Trad 15m

4m left of S. Up the blank corner.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980

8
20 * Swing Time Trad 25m

4m left of SWD on boulder.

  1. 15m (20) Strenuously up to ledge at 5m. Follow low traverse line right to arete. Rap off, or

  2. 10m (19) Continue up the slopey corner above (no pro).

FA: giles Bradbury, 1980

9
20 Cute Energy Trad 50m

Start as for ST.

  1. 25m (20) Follow the gutter left.

  2. 25m (20) Head diagonally up and left.

FA: Glenn Robbins, 1980

10

At the buttress above the keyhole. The keyhole is almost directly below the Dunbar's anchor. Up for 4m then move right to the line that goes through the rooves and on to the top.

FA: Warwick Baird, 1980

11
15 Escape Climb Trad 25m

This and the next climb T are accessed either by walking around through the keyhole (only when the swell is small and the tide is out), or by rapping all the way down Poet's Corner. Escape Climb 25m 15 The corner, about 10m left of LJC. Scary

FA: Michael Law, 1976

12
? Ugly John Paradox Unknown 25m

Further left and loose

13
21 ** Poet's Corner Top rope 10m

To find this short classic, walk right (south) along the fence until an orange corner comes up close to the fence. Rap down. ★★ Poet's Corner 10m 21 X Up the corner (2 manky BRs). Recommended top rope only.

FA: Michael Law, 1976

14

As for PC. A mammoth leftwards traverse that finishes at the base of Why Me. It's the longest climb in Sydney, and almost certainly unrepeated, so race down there now to bag the coveted second ascent!!

15
21 * Lost in Space Trad 20m

Scarier than many routes twice the grade. Big roof down left of poet's Corner. Scramble down about 12m right (south) of PC. Rap down a small corner then tension right under the big roof (difficult) to a hanging belay (very manky BBs).

Huge roof with crazy moves. Take a #9 hex. Up and through roof to ledge (big exposure). Head up and right (BR) to arete then up. Reasonable pro but crazy!

FA: Michael Law, 1978

16
25 ** Why Me? Mixed 60m, 6

Duelling Biceps Area An impressive area offering a fine set of hideous cranks. To find this area, continue south for about 100m past Poet's Corner, until you can see an impressive undercut wall, just south of a big zawn (about 80m south of where you are standing). Duelling Biceps and Fat Action are located about 20m south again, on a smooth brown wall with a 10m slab at the top. This is also where the rap station is located (3 BBs), at the southern end (towards the right, facing out) of the slabs. A 35m rap will deposit you on the initial belay ledge for DB and FA, or you can rap in another 10m then swing right to access the other climbs. Just left of the arete, about 8m right of FF. ABout 30m R of the abseil.

  1. 20m (23) Up and right (BR) then up and left (BR) to flake. Continue up to rounded hold (BR) then head diagonally right (BRs) to crack. Up to ledge.

  2. 20m (25) Right out roof then left over bulge and continue left (stance). Blast over roof and up wall above to belay in V corner (BBs and cams).

  3. 20m (21) Head diagonally right to slabby corner (as for FF).

FA: Michael Law & giles bradbury, 1983

17
23 *** Boyzone Sport 95m

The second pitch is a sweet traverse along the lip of a roof. 9m right of LGM, below big corner.

  1. 25m (20) Follow the corner straight up then step right to belay as for WM P1.

  2. 20m (24) Move up to traverse line, then an excellent and pants filling traverse left (6 manky BRs). Step down to double bolt belay. Possible to rap off from here.

  3. 20m (22) Move 2m left and punch through roof (BR - hard to clip). Head 4m right along traverse line then move up (BR) and right to belay at far left hand end of ledge (double BBs).

  4. 30m (16) Dangerous. Head up (rust stain that might have once been a BR) past ledge to corner. Follow to top.

FA: Michael Law & giles bradbury, 1980

18
22 ** Feeding Frenzy Mixed 20m, 6

Variant second pitch to B. Follow the lower traverse line (BR then cams) to belay as for B P2. Much safer than any of the pitches on B.

FA: Giles Bradbury, 1980

19
27 ** Fish Fingers Mixed 75m, 7
  1. 25m (27) Up Boyzone corner for 10m then step left (BR). Through roof to flake (BR) then up to break. Move right and up to roof (BR), then launch out big roof to BR on lip. Continue up to belay on BRs on B P2.

  2. 20m (27) Over rooves and up (BRs and a large cam) to belay on ledge as for B P3.

  3. 30m As for B P4.

FA: Michael Law & giles bradbury, 1985

20

1m right of D. An old Giles Bradbury project (so it must be pretty bloody hard!).

21
28 *** Doggit Trad 18m

20m right of FA at brown slime. Blast straight up the wall (BRs and small to mid size cams) to belay as for B P2. Rap off, or finish up B.

FA: Michael Law, 1984

22
25 *** Fat Action Sport 40m

great climbing, needs a rebolt and the horizontal shattered pillar reinforced or removed. Start at the ledge at the bottom of the abseil a few meters R of Duelling Biceps. Up to BR, then move right and crank straight up wall (BRs).

FA: Stuart Macelroy, 1989

23
23 *** Duelling Biceps Sport 40m

Don't do it

FA: Michael Law & Nic Collier, 1984

24

From the top of the corner on P2, move R 2m and through roof

FA: Michael Law, 1984