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Summary

Rusted-out post-punk sea-cliff with interesting lines but no belays.

Description

Medium height unfenced post-corrosion 80s sea-cliff with a pleasant northerly aspect away from the prying eyes of the sea-cliff police, but among numbers of tourists. Belays minimal, and don't place any in the heritage stonework of the gun emplacements above!

Access issues

Nearby parking very crowded on the weekend.

Approach

From Camp Cove head east toward South Head on the footpath. Just before the Hornby Light, scramble down the rough path to the water, then make your way east along the rocks just past under the lighthouse.

Ethic

Ancient withered carrots, lots of sand, and no belays.

History

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The frankly-named South Head climbs date from the era of 80s sea-cliffing, when these rocks were once the haunt of hard-bodied human "seals" hauled out beyond Lady Bay to tan and hang on remote rocks.

These days confined by law ("Nudity Permitted on Beach Only") prospective climbers need only be worried by hordes of inbound and other tourists doing selfies and otheries at a frenzied rate sufficient to turn an old school nudist afflicted with both voyerism and exhibitionism several shades redder under their 365 day x 360 degree tan.

Like most old sea cliffs, all the old bolts have rusted and fragmented like the bodies of sun-fried "phoques", the forlon remnants of their rusted heads and drooping shafts witness to the corrosive and inexorable forces of the elements.

Oh, and there are no belays.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

Wall 4m right of Gayline (or right of Gentlemen Prefer Gentlemen?), bolts all completely buggered. Top rope if an anchor can be found.

Start: Corner 5m right of Gayline.

Up main corner then sloping corner above. Upper bolts unlikely.

Could be a trad lead there although top is filled with veg.

Start: Thin left-sloping orange-streaked corner.

Up corner for 5m, left to large block, then pocketed wall with rusted carrots, finish up corner through a withered multi-stemmed Banksia. Solid hardcore tips layaway could await the intrepid directionista.

Start: Just left of steep corner under roof crack 8m left of Gayline.

Hard move past corroded shaft of old carrot (or potential cam?), up corner then jam thru horizontal roof into dirt. "That's the way, u-huh u-huh, I liike it ..."

Only possibly belay appears to be massive splined shaft of WWII gun mount 10m back.

Heavy pants "keep slipping off".

Up Strange Bedfellows for 5m then left up wall past rusted carrot. Even looks like another roof crack for the keen and hard.

Small orange wall with rusted carrots "round the arete".

Activity

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