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Description

The sand stone on the south side can stay quite wet after heavy rain and can get some run off from the above park. Luckily the south side gets a semi dose of the sun throughout the day to dry it off. The wind going up and down the gully also helps to dry it off.

All the fixed pro resembles blobs of rusted metal which could almost be pulled out by hand.

Approach

Best approach is to rap in from one of the many highline anchors in place on the south side. The walk in from the south side of the gully can be wet . Approach time is via walking in.

History

Initially developed by Mike Law in the 70's.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 ** Pox Sport 25m, 9

About 3m right of the arete at the mouth of the gully, opposite the ladders, on 2nd biggest boulder. Clip 1st bolt with a screwgate and step left and up past another 8 Ubolts to a loweroff. 1st pitch retrobolted 2014

There is the old trad 2nd pitch:-

  1. 10m Up and over roof (17ish)

Gary Eggins 1970s

FA: Garry Eggins, Mikl Law trad, 1979

2
22 ** Pocks Sport 30m

Start on biggest boulder. Up the ledge and carefull clip 3rd bolt then onwards through roofs. Better to be short or tall on this

FA: mikl, 2014

3
20 Matt's Climb Mixed 40m, 5

Reasonable trad climbing, start 4m R of the biggest boulder. Hard start to Ubolt then up cracks and breaks to ledge at 4 m (this is a new direct start, the old route traversed in easily from atop the big boulder). Up rounded corner, double ropes help as there's a god crack 1m right. Belay possible on ledge (Ubolts and a big cam).

Head up and right up wall, (Ubolt, carrot) and up a short dirty corner (Ubolt) step left to next corner under a roof. Head left (Ubolt) under the roof then continue up crack, Ubolt and traverse right to belay. Short finish scramble.

FA: mikl law, matt dunstan, 1978

4
20 *** Funky Moves Sport 40m, 12

Intersting moves the whole way. This climbs the corners on the left edge of the big cave some 13m R of Matts Climb. Easiest to walk up 5m into the cave and walk left to the line of rings. Up the line to a 3 ring anchor over the top (too high to lower off). It replaces an old sandbag 15 (!) which probabaly climbed the start a bit furtehr left then continued up the corner past 2 carrots.

FA: Jeff Cras, 2014

5
Project Sam Trad Project

This might go on gear. Please don't bolt just yet.

Up flake, find a way through roof on the left, then up twin cracks on either side of arete.

2BB on ledge.