Hello!

First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» Go exploring, » Learn more or » Ask us a question

Description

The rock in Rosa Gully stays quite wet after rain. This is due to the run off from the above nature strip/park opposite the houses. The northern side is devoid of sun as well during the day so the sand stones only chance of drying is from the gust of wind going up and down the gully.

Approach

You can rap in from one of the many highline anchors in place on the south side near the mouth of the gully (straight above Pox). Walk in from the grassy 'Vee" between the 2 branches of the gully is ok, can be tricky if wet or locals are watering the community garden. Approach time is via walking in.

History

Developed by everyone's favorite Mike Law back in the 1980's.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
15 Pornflakes Trad 10m

About 40m back up the gully, below a chossy left tending flake.

Up the flake.

Mikl Law 1980's

2
20 * Vril Sport 12m, 5

"A ficticious natural force". Retrobolted and much saner. Awkward moves all the way, origionally led ground up on natural gear. About 12m right of P, and about 18m left of the ladder, on the left edge of an obvious orange wall with a crack running up the centre (SS).

Follow the cracks to a small roof, then head right and up to the top.

Mikl Law 1980's

FA: mikl law, 1980

3

2m right of V.

Head up the flake (manky BRs), then head left and up to a horizontal. Step right here and continue up (rotten BRs) then right again to a short crack.

Mike Law 1980s

4
21 * Surrogate Sickle Trad 15m

Below the obvious crack in the middle of the orange wall, about 6m left of the ladder. An enjoyable and technical little outing, but unfortunately the bolts are pretty far gone (for a change!).

Mike Law 1980s

5
23 * Trick City Trad 15m

1m right of SS. Head up and slightly right past break and corroded BRs. Continue to roof and finish up cracks.

Mike Law 1980s

6
Project Sam Sport Project 15m

Up the flake to the roof, then blast out right onto great rock aiming for a rail, then up to meet the Tourist Route.

7
16 ** Tourist Route Trad 45m

Start below the corner 3m right of TC and 2m left of ladder.

  1. 15m (16) Up the corner, veer left and continue up cracks (crux). Lower off at 15m

  2. 30m (15) Continue up and slightly left on ledges.

FA: mikl law, 1978

8

Start as for TR

  1. 15m (15) Up TR for 10m, then step right to cracks and follow these to the belay/loweroff.

  2. 30m (15) As for TR.

FA: mikl law, 1978

9

The following climbs all start either above or below the walk around ledge (which is accessed by the ladder that is located just here). Take care on the ladder...

Doddle up ladder, then continue slightly left and up to roof. Jam through this up the thin crack then continue up to cave (manky BB).

Mikl Law 1980's

10
21 * Posturing Trad 40m

On the walk around ledge, 30m right of the ladder, below an arete. The original description describes this climb as "coronary country". I hate to think what it must be like now, after 12 more years of weathering!

  1. 20m (21) Jump to gain wall, then dangle right and up (BR) to corner. Follow arete to ledge (corroded BB).

  2. 20m (19) Head up and left and follow scrappy corners to the top.

Mikl Law 1980's

11
19 Obscurity Trad 78m

The following two climbs start below the walk around ledge.

10m right and 15m below P (just left of the obvious flake of ACF).

  1. 15m (19) Drift up and left up wall and flake to the walk around ledge.

  2. 18m (18) Head up the corner and step right to the arete. Head up this to a ledge with a crappy BB to the right.

  3. 25m (18) Head right underneath the flake and layback up it. At the top head right to the corner and up to the belay.

  4. 20m Continue up the corner then step left and continue to top.

Mikl Law 1980's

12
23 * A Certain Flair Trad 16m

The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of O.

  1. Climb the flake to the walk around ledge.

Mike Law 1980s

13
20 *** The Last Wave Sport 50m

Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. The walk in down Rosa Gully and up the ladder and ledges is nice, you can also rap in on a 50 m rope from the top if you want to suss out the crux moves (leave a rope fixed, hard to pull down and it’ll probably end up in the ocean).

Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays.

Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp.

  1. 19 28m Up ramp to weird mantel then up and left to belay.

  2. 18 12 m Leftwards below choss and up to belay

  3. 20 10m Up to roof and a few stiff moves.

FA: Mikl Law, Vanessa Peterson , Warwick Payten, Jeff Crass, 2014

14
17 Karen's Climb Trad 75m

Start below right tending ramp, just past the arete approximately 60m right of aCF (approx. 100m from the ladder). Scary.

  1. 15m (18) Up ramp (very weathered BRs), step right around the arete, then follow the thin crack up to a belay ledge (very dodgy BB). Very poorly protected.

  2. 30m Follow corner for approximately 5m, then easily left to belay on slab below roof (manky BB).

  3. 30m Climb up slab and V crack then left to ledge. Head straight up from here, then step right to another crack. Follow this to the top.

Mikl Law 1980's

15
20 Breakers Trad 70m

About 3m right of KC.

  1. 40m (21) Climb up, veering left to bulge (crux). After this, continue up and right past assorted fixed protection (all badly weathered) to belay in a corner that breaks through the rooves (manky BB).

  2. 30m Head up corner, then traverse left around the arete and on for about 8m. Wander up to top.

Mikl Law 1980's