Rosa Gully Rock climbing19 routes in area
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The rock in Rosa Gully stays quite wet after rain. This is due to the run off from the above nature strip/park opposite the houses. The northern side is devoid of sun as well during the day so the sand stones only chance of drying is from the gust of wind going up and down the gully.
The sand stone on the south side can stay quite wet after heavy rain and can get some run off from the above park. Luckily the south side gets a semi dose of the sun throughout the day to dry it off. The wind going up and down the gully also helps to dry it off.
All the fixed pro resembles blobs of rusted metal which could almost be pulled out by hand.
You can rap in from one of the many highline anchors in place on the south side near the mouth of the gully (straight above Pox). Walk in from the grassy 'Vee" between the 2 branches of the gully is ok, can be tricky if wet or locals are watering the community garden. Approach time is via walking in.
Best approach is to rap in from one of the many highline anchors in place on the south side. The walk in from the south side of the gully can be wet . Approach time is via walking in.
Developed by everyone's favorite Mike Law back in the 1980's.
Initially developed by Mike Law in the 70's.
Up the flake to the roof, then blast out right onto great rock aiming for a rail, then up to meet the Tourist Route.
This might go on gear. Please don't bolt just yet.
Up flake, find a way through roof on the left, then up twin cracks on either side of arete.
2BB on ledge.
Start below the corner 3m right of TC and 2m left of ladder.
15m (16) Up the corner, veer left and continue up cracks (crux). Lower off at 15m
30m (15) Continue up and slightly left on ledges.
FA: mikl law, 1978
The following climbs all start either above or below the walk around ledge (which is accessed by the ladder that is located just here). Take care on the ladder...
Doddle up ladder, then continue slightly left and up to roof. Jam through this up the thin crack then continue up to cave (manky BB).
Mikl Law 1980's
On the walk around ledge, 30m right of the ladder, below an arete. The original description describes this climb as "coronary country". I hate to think what it must be like now, after 12 more years of weathering!
20m (21) Jump to gain wall, then dangle right and up (BR) to corner. Follow arete to ledge (corroded BB).
20m (19) Head up and left and follow scrappy corners to the top.
Mikl Law 1980's
The following two climbs start below the walk around ledge.
10m right and 15m below P (just left of the obvious flake of ACF).
15m (19) Drift up and left up wall and flake to the walk around ledge.
18m (18) Head up the corner and step right to the arete. Head up this to a ledge with a crappy BB to the right.
25m (18) Head right underneath the flake and layback up it. At the top head right to the corner and up to the belay.
20m Continue up the corner then step left and continue to top.
Mikl Law 1980's
The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of O.
- Climb the flake to the walk around ledge.
Mike Law 1980s
Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. The walk in down Rosa Gully and up the ladder and ledges is nice, you can also rap in on a 50 m rope from the top if you want to suss out the crux moves (leave a rope fixed, hard to pull down and it’ll probably end up in the ocean).
Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays.
Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp.
19 28m Up ramp to weird mantel then up and left to belay.
18 12 m Leftwards below choss and up to belay
20 10m Up to roof and a few stiff moves.
FA: Mikl Law, Vanessa Peterson, Warwick Payten & Jeff Crass, 2014
Start below right tending ramp, just past the arete approximately 60m right of aCF (approx. 100m from the ladder). Scary.
15m (18) Up ramp (very weathered BRs), step right around the arete, then follow the thin crack up to a belay ledge (very dodgy BB). Very poorly protected.
30m Follow corner for approximately 5m, then easily left to belay on slab below roof (manky BB).
30m Climb up slab and V crack then left to ledge. Head straight up from here, then step right to another crack. Follow this to the top.
Mikl Law 1980's
About 3m right of KC.
40m (21) Climb up, veering left to bulge (crux). After this, continue up and right past assorted fixed protection (all badly weathered) to belay in a corner that breaks through the rooves (manky BB).
30m Head up corner, then traverse left around the arete and on for about 8m. Wander up to top.
Mikl Law 1980's
About 3m right of the arete at the mouth of the gully, opposite the ladders, on 2nd biggest boulder. Clip 1st bolt with a screwgate and step left and up past another 8 Ubolts to a loweroff. 1st pitch retrobolted 2014
There is the old trad 2nd pitch:-
- 10m Up and over roof (17ish)
Gary Eggins 1970s
FA: Garry Eggins & Mikl Law trad, 1979
Start on biggest boulder. Up the ledge and carefull clip 3rd bolt then onwards through roofs. Better to be short or tall on this
FA: mikl, 2014
Reasonable trad climbing, start 4m R of the biggest boulder. Hard start to Ubolt then up cracks and breaks to ledge at 4 m (this is a new direct start, the old route traversed in easily from atop the big boulder). Up rounded corner, double ropes help as there's a god crack 1m right. Belay possible on ledge (Ubolts and a big cam).
Head up and right up wall, (Ubolt, carrot) and up a short dirty corner (Ubolt) step left to next corner under a roof. Head left (Ubolt) under the roof then continue up crack, Ubolt and traverse right to belay. Short finish scramble.
FA: mikl law & matt dunstan, 1978
Intersting moves the whole way. This climbs the corners on the left edge of the big cave some 13m R of Matts Climb. Easiest to walk up 5m into the cave and walk left to the line of rings. Up the line to a 3 ring anchor over the top (too high to lower off). It replaces an old sandbag 15 (!) which probabaly climbed the start a bit furtehr left then continued up the corner past 2 carrots.
FA: Jeff Cras, 2014