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Summary

Really pretty, good conditions on still winter days, a dramatic ladder and ledge system leading North.

Description

The rock in Rosa Gully stays quite wet after rain. This is due to the run off from the above nature strip/park opposite the houses. The northern side is devoid of sun as well during the day so the sand stones only chance of drying is from the gust of wind going up and down the gully.

The sand stone on the south side can stay quite wet after heavy rain and can get some run off from the above park. Luckily the south side gets a semi dose of the sun throughout the day to dry it off. The wind going up and down the gully also helps to dry it off. Summer is very moist in there due to onshore winds.

All the fixed pro resembles blobs of rusted metal which could almost be pulled out by hand. Except for routes that have been rebolted with stainless.

Approach

You can rap in from one of the many highline anchors in place on the south side near the mouth of the gully (straight above Pox). Easier to walk in from the grassy 'Vee" between the 2 branches of the gully is ok, can be tricky if wet or locals are watering the community garden.

Routes on the north wall of the gully and routes north on the seacliff are described first.

Then the south side (Pox etc).

History

Developed by everyone's favorite Mike Law back in the 1980's.

Initially developed by Mike Law in the 70's.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
19 ** Chicken of the Sea Sport 25m, 11

Line on the left hand side (north) at the base of the steep narrow part of the gully. By car at base of steep section, 50m from the gully exit to the sea. Up on jugs and cross left onto ledge. up to ramp where you can pull on crimps or step right and to a hands off freakish slab. Then up easily (extend extend 5th Ubolt) through ledge and second ramp to anchor.

FA: Patrick A. Burr, 3rd Jun

2
22 ** Rainbow connection Sport 25m, 11

Start as for Chicken of the Sea, head up and rightwards to finish up a thin crack. Varied and slightly wonky climbing on good rock

FA: Michael Law, 2015

3
18 ** Pornflakes Sport Project 30m, 13

Extended but bolts not glued in, Beware, don't get on this yet.About 40m back up the gully from the sea and 20m R of Rainbow Connection, below a chossy left tending flake. Up the flake and head left. Careful lowering and cleaning. First crack done as easy trad, extended by Eugene.

Set by Michael Law, 1981

FA: Eugene Mak, 2015

4
20 * Vril Sport 12m, 5

"A ficticious natural force". Retrobolted and much saner. Awkward moves all the way, origionally led ground up on natural gear. About 12m right of P, and about 18m left of the ladder, on the left edge of an obvious orange wall with a crack running up the centre (SS).

Follow the cracks to a small roof, then head right and up to the top.

Mikl Law 1980's

FA: mikl law, 1980

5

2m right of V.

Head up the flake (manky BRs), then head left and up to a horizontal. Step right here and continue up (rotten BRs) then right again to a short crack.

Mike Law 1980s

6
21 * Surrogate Sickle Trad 15m

Below the obvious crack in the middle of the orange wall, about 6m left of the ladder. An enjoyable and technical little outing, but unfortunately the bolts are pretty far gone (for a change!).

Mike Law 1980s

7
23 * Trick City Trad 15m

1m right of SS. Head up and slightly right past break and corroded BRs. Continue to roof and finish up cracks.

Mike Law 1980s

8
Project Sam Sport Project 15m

Up the flake to the roof, then blast out right onto great rock aiming for a rail, then up to meet the Tourist Route.

Bolted

9
16 ** Tourist Route Trad 45m 2

Start below the corner 3m right of TC and 2m left of ladder.

  1. 15m (16) Up the corner, veer left and continue up cracks (crux). Lower off at 15m

  2. 30m (15) Continue up and slightly left on ledges.

FA: mikl law, 1978

10
18 Tourist Route Variant Trad 45m 2

Start as for TR

  1. 15m (15) Up TR for 10m, then step right to cracks and follow these to the belay/loweroff.

  2. 30m (15) As for TR.

FA: mikl law, 1978

11

The following climbs all start either above or below the walk around ledge (which is accessed by the ladder that is located just here). Take care on the ladder...

Doddle up ladder, then continue slightly left and up to roof. Jam through this up the thin crack then continue up to cave (manky BB).

Mikl Law 1980's

12
21 * Posturing Trad 40m 2

On the walk around ledge, 30m right of the ladder, below an arete. The original description describes this climb as "coronary country". I hate to think what it must be like now, after 12 more years of weathering!

  1. 20m (21) Jump to gain wall, then dangle right and up (BR) to corner. Follow arete to ledge (corroded BB).

  2. 20m (19) Head up and left and follow scrappy corners to the top.

Mikl Law 1980's

13
19 Obscurity Trad 78m 4

The following two climbs start below the walk around ledge.

10m right and 15m below P (just left of the obvious flake of ACF).

  1. 15m (19) Drift up and left up wall and flake to the walk around ledge.

  2. 18m (18) Head up the corner and step right to the arete. Head up this to a ledge with a crappy BB to the right.

  3. 25m (18) Head right underneath the flake and layback up it. At the top head right to the corner and up to the belay.

  4. 20m Continue up the corner then step left and continue to top.

Mikl Law 1980's

14
23 * A Certain Flair Trad 16m

The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of O.

  1. Climb the flake to the walk around ledge.

Mike Law 1980s

15
20 *** The Last Wave Sport 50m 3

Fun sea sport cliffing with the usual mix of choss and pleasure. Loses the sun in summer by 11am. Retrobolts half of the first pitch of Karen's Climb then does a long direct finish. The walk in down Rosa Gully and up the ladder and ledges is nice, you can also rap in on a 50 m rope from the top if you want to suss out the crux moves (leave a rope fixed, hard to pull down and it’ll probably end up in the ocean).

Take about 11 draws and 2 slings for belays.

Down Rosa Gully and up the ladder, then walk along the ledge 15m above the sea for 100m to a small honeycombed ramp.

  1. 19 28m Up ramp to weird mantel then up and left to belay.

  2. 18 12 m Leftwards below choss and up to belay

  3. 20 10m Up to roof and a few stiff moves.

FA: Mikl Law, Vanessa Peterson, Warwick Payten & Jeff Crass, 2014

16
17 Karen's Climb Trad 75m 3

Start below right tending ramp, just past the arete approximately 60m right of aCF (approx. 100m from the ladder). Scary. The first pitch has been retrobolted as Part of the Last wave

  1. 15m (18) Up ramp , step right around the arete, then follow the thin crack up to a belay ledge all Ubolts now.

  2. 30m Follow corner for approximately 5m, then easily left to belay on slab below roof (manky BB).

  3. 30m Climb up slab and V crack then left to ledge. Head straight up from here, then step right to another crack. Follow this to the top.

Mikl Law 1970's

FA: Michael Law, 1979

17
20 Breakers Trad 70m 2

About 3m right of KC.

  1. 40m (21) Climb up, veering left to bulge (crux). After this, continue up and right past assorted fixed protection (all badly weathered) to belay in a corner that breaks through the rooves (manky BB).

  2. 30m Head up corner, then traverse left around the arete and on for about 8m. Wander up to top.

Mikl Law 1980's