Rosa Gully North Side Rock climbing17 routes in area
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Really pretty, good conditions on still winter days, a dramatic ladder and ledge system leading North.
The rock in Rosa Gully stays quite wet after rain. This is due to the run off from the above nature strip/park opposite the houses. The northern side is devoid of sun as well during the day so the sand stones only chance of drying is from the gust of wind going up and down the gully.
The sand stone on the south side can stay quite wet after heavy rain and can get some run off from the above park. Luckily the south side gets a semi dose of the sun throughout the day to dry it off. The wind going up and down the gully also helps to dry it off. Summer is very moist in there due to onshore winds.
All the fixed pro resembles blobs of rusted metal which could almost be pulled out by hand. Except for routes that have been rebolted with stainless.
You can rap in from one of the many highline anchors in place on the south side near the mouth of the gully (straight above Pox). Easier to walk in from the grassy 'Vee" between the 2 branches of the gully is ok, can be tricky if wet or locals are watering the community garden.
Routes on the north wall of the gully and routes north on the seacliff are described first.
Then the south side (Pox etc).
Developed by everyone's favorite bolter, Mike Law, back in the 1970's.
Line on the left hand side (north) at the base of the steep narrow part of the gully. By car at base of steep section, 50m from the gully exit to the sea. Up on jugs and cross left onto ledge. up to ramp where you can pull on crimps or step right and to a hands off freakish slab. Then up easily (extend extend 5th Ubolt) through ledge and second ramp to anchor.
FA: Patrick A. Burr, 3rd Jun
Start a metre right of Chicken of the Sea, head up and rightwards to finish up a thin crack. Varied and slightly wonky climbing on good rock
FA: Michael Law, 2015
Pumpy! Extended with 20m of new climbing. About 40m back up the gully from the sea and 20m R of Rainbow Connection, below a chossy left tending flake. Up the flake moving left past 2 ledges. At top go right to hidden flake at anchor. Careful lowering and cleaning as it's very diagonal (leave 1st draw clipped then climb up and remove it) First crack was done as easy trad, extended by Eugene.
Long draws will cut drag.
Originally 'Pornflakes' - Mikl's old rusted carrot can be seen on the first obvious ledge.