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Description

Micro crag consisting of traversing and short up probs and eliminates. Good climbing for the inner city as the wall is around 20 to 30 degrees with a nice bulge running through the right side of the wall. Not the most attractive of areas but good climbing nonetheless. About eight to ten metres in length and 3m low point 4m high point. All problems top out.

Approach

To be found at Sutherland avenue Paddington beside a big block of flats. 7min from edgecliff station and short walk from cascade street from the bus stop.

History

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Development started around 2009 or 10 by Krishna Thorburn as a way of coping with the immanent birth of his little girl. Around 10 plus problems exist with half a dozen still to be done. Currently the established problems are for v1 to v5 aprox with a few harder projects to be completed. Will try and get a few more done before I move on. Move!! Gana miss this spot!!

Routes

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Grade Route

8 to 10 metre traverse. Stand start left to right. done right to left makes it a tad easier but not as good. Also a sit start below the stand start from a right three finger pocket and left under cling pinch.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 20 Jul 2011

Far right last chuck of kht. Sit start on the feature up and trav right to the end of the wall.

FA: Krishna, 2011

Crimpy eliminate. Beautiful prob requires a touch of finesse. All the big holds are out for hands and feet. Accept the hold at the top of the wall. Total classic

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 2 Dec 2012

Same start as for little knuckles , but straight up and over bolge with a cool big move.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 19 Jul 2011

Up the large holds rightwards with a nice big move to the top and interesting topout.

FA: Krishna, 16 Jun 2011

Adds a low traversing start from the big jug 3rd of the way on the lower part of the wall moving right to left and up into the stand start and then continue to the far right and top out. The best variation and hardest one done so far. Was thinking v5 at first but I think the standard traverse is more like v5 and this variation adds a v3 or 4 to the start. Puppy sustained number.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 5 Dec 2013

From the big jug 3rd of the way along the wall traverse right through the blank arch and the pounce to the lip

FA: Krishna thorburn, 27 Apr 2013

Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 23 Nov 2011

Start on the L shaped feature either up to the pocket to lip then move slightly rightwards and up. Variant same start off the L shaped hold then out right to the sidepull under the bolge then same top out. Really good variant.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, 23 Nov 2011

One of the higher problems on the left side. Climb through the low orange face on crimps them straight through to the top.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 20 Jul 2011

Got desperate for another fa. On the far right of the wall there is dirt and rubble that has been used as land fill! Needed to dig it out a bit to gain access to some more holds. Big move up to the sharp jug in the bulge. Good move shame the jug is so sharp and your sitting in the dirt to start.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2 Nov 2013

Same start as for little knuckles, moving up into the rooflet avoiding the holds on the lip move right to the slot then straight up. Technical and a bit powerful. Good variation.

FA: Krishna thorburn, 2012

Same start as the other good fun ones but head left and out the top of jug head . not as good or fun as the others but something else to climb.

FA: Krishna Thorburn, Aug 2012

Low traverse of the wall. Wish I could do it but will take a shit load of training for me

Set by Krishna Thorburn

Sit start under the rooflet at the far right of the wall. Start on a couple of edges and move slightly left to the black slot in the rooflet. Move directly up around the bolge.

Set by Krishna Thorburn

My longest project. Love this problem and wish I could of had more time to work it. From the low jug feature 3rd of the way on the wall, traverse right on low blankish part of the middle of the wall to the next major feature then move straight to the top.

Set by Krishna Thorburn

Climb the vertical face over the driveway, just to the left of the quaried over hang. Moving up on a couple of tricky pinches.

Set by Krishna

Not as bad as it looks. Climb on the right of the break.

FA: Krishna Thorburn

From the jugy feat on the right, low traverse left and the up the high part of the wall.

FA: Krishna Thorburn

Not the most interesting problem. But has been done

FA: Krishna Thorburn

Little eliminate problem taking out the obvious larger holds.

Set by Krishna Thorburn

Little eliminate problem taking out the obvious larger holds.

Set by Krishna Thorburn

Starting on the low jug a third of the way along the wall. Low traverse left and up the prow and round the face over the driveway. Probably needs some pruning at the top. Could probably be top roped. Was too much of a hassle for me to develope.

Set by Krishna

Link big holds climb into orange snatch.

FA: Krishna

Link the knuckle nuts project into knuckle heads trav.

Set by Krishna

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