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Description

The south side of the gully including the prominent red wall, the grey walls right of the ladder, and a steeper area around to the left (east) which is easily walked around to from the red wall.

Features all climbs at the west end of the gully between the northern and southern wall

Access issues inherited from Diamond Bay

Follow Old South Head Road from Bondi Junction Towards Vaucluse until you see the turn off for Diamond Bay Road just after the bowling club. Turn either left or right at the T Intersection and follow the road around to the parking area. Park on the south end of the car park.

Both the 380 and 389 buses (from the city and Bondi Junction) have bus stops just near the crag.

Approach

The descent ladders reach the base of the cliff here. To the right (facing the cliff) is a series of blocky aretes and corners.

Ethic inherited from Diamond Bay

A number of climbs feature chipped holds, as well as glued holds

Routes

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Grade Route
1
25 * Rabies / Spurting Wildly Sport 20m, 9

6m left of Wag's Effort, below jug on lip.

A major thrash through 4 rooves and a mid-life crisis. Muscle up and leftward past bird crap, glued on holds and 9 RBs.

Multipitch climb with ancient protection and even less natural protection. Below and just left of the corner in the middle of the east facing wall.

  1. 6m Up to ledge (manky BB).

  2. 19m (25) Head up to corner, passing loose block (manky BR and cams). Head up the wall just right of the corner, tending right over the void (rusty BRs; take a wire to protect the second). Manky BB for the belay.

FA: Mikl Law, 1990

2
20 Wag's Effort Trad 10m

Start below the corner at the right hand end of the big cave. Up the bird shit encrusted corner and skirt right around the roof to an old rap station.

FA: Dave Wagland, 1985

3
26 * Fade Sport 20m, 6

2m right of Wag's Effort.

Swarm up arete, balancy over roof with unique suction move, then up wall past a thin crux. 6 RBs to double RB lower off.

FA: Mikl Law, 1990

4
18 Honeycomb Arete Sport 15m, 5

Start up easy wall left of corner through 3 RBs to ledge. Then up chossy, sandy, arete. Clip high Ubolt with lockiong biner to keep you off the ledge. 2 RBs through the honeycomb to a double RB lower. Take a hold home as a souvenir. At the rate the holds break off no 2 ascents will never be the same!

FA: Ness, 2002

5
20 Iron Lady Trad 18m

Up easy corner (right of 'Honeycomb Arete') and sustained through the crack corner above ledge at half height.

FA: Warwick Baird, 1980

6

Two meters right of 'Iron Lady' Strenuous start, then straight up through 6 RBs. Awkward layaway to to double RB belay.

7
24 Redneck Brother Sport 18m, 6

Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts.

FA: Dave Wagland, 1980

8
24 * Mompox Sport 12m, 5

Marked and 1m right of 'Redneck Brother'. Reachy start past first 2 RBs, then interesting moves through pocketed area, past 2 more RBs then straight up to final RB and to lower off. Triple BB anchors above for top roping.

FA: mike law, 1996

9
20 * Gloucester Buckets Sport 12m, 5

Crag classic. Marked, 1m right of 'Mompox' "Perfectly" chipped holds leading up to left of the grassy pocket, past 4 BRs, then left of the seam through the crux, passing fanil BR to lower off. Double BB anchor for top roping.

FA: Mikl Myers, 1990

10

2m right of 'Gloucester Buckets' Almost always found seeping and wet. Follow the streak

FA: Mike Law, 1980

11
20 Gravel Pit Road Sport 16m, 2

Start in the middle of wild cactus. Straight up past manky BR's

FA: Geoff Weigand, 1980

12
A Aid 2

Around to the left of descent ladder. Two very rusted bolts visible. No other pro.

13
18 B Top rope 10m

Below the arete 3m left of LP. A variety of interesting and tricky starts, then easily up the twin seams. Recommended to lower off from the first ledge. Only known to have been top roped, but it might be leadable on gear.

14
16 LP Trad 10m

The obvious short corner about 10m right of the ladders.

Small wires up the corner, round the roof (a #3 camalot is useful) then up to a large ledge. From here there are a variety of finishes. The direct (up the chossy flake and up to the FH's with signs of surface rust) is a one move wonder of about grade 17. Another alternative is the top section of SM (the next corner to the right with two RB's and slight rope drag).

FA: Mikl Law, 1972

15
20 Sleazy Mission Sport 10m, 2

The following five routes are all on the north facing black wall that disappears into the chasm. The wall can be quite greasy and the base can be flooded after prolonged rain.

3m right of LP, at the undercut arete. Delicate moves up the arete (2 RBs), then finish up the corner above. 2 RBs anchor. (Solo on F/A)

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

16
21 * Kangasplat Mixed 10m, 1

0.5m right of SM.

Bouldery moves up the blank wall then left to SM (RB), or continue up right (no pro). No protection down low. (Solo on F/A)

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

17
23 * Small Pox Sport 10m, 1

1m right of K.

Boulder past BR to ledge, then up as you will. (solo on F/A)

FA: Mikl Law, 1985

18
19 Thin Mixed 15m, 3

0.5m right of SP, below thin crack.

Great climbing up the crack (wires, manky PR, BR) and wall to the chossy break (BR). Continue up the pleasant grey wall above (large BR - some bolt brackets don't fit) to the chossy break just below the top. Natural belay (take slings). Would be worth 2 stars if it had a little less choss!

FA: Mikl Law, 1979

19
S Trad 15m

Marked. 3m right of T at the blocky corner perched above the filthy pond. Don't know where it goes exactly! Straight up looks unprotected and reasonably difficult. Following the ramp to the right up the gully then up the upper corner looks unpleasant.

20
C Trad 8m

Opposite T.

A line of chips that finishes at the first choss break. No pro.