Diamond Bay Southside Rock climbing20 routes in cliff
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The south side of the gully including the prominent red wall, the grey walls right of the ladder, and a steeper area around to the left (east) which is easily walked around to from the red wall.
Features all climbs at the west end of the gully between the northern and southern wall
Access issues inherited from Diamond Bay
Follow Old South Head Road from Bondi Junction Towards Vaucluse until you see the turn off for Diamond Bay Road just after the bowling club. Turn either left or right at the T Intersection and follow the road around to the parking area. Park on the south end of the car park.
Both the 380 and 389 buses (from the city and Bondi Junction) have bus stops just near the crag.
Ethic inherited from Diamond Bay
A number of climbs feature chipped holds, as well as glued holds
Start up easy wall left of corner through 3 RBs to ledge. Then up chossy, sandy, arete. Clip high Ubolt with lockiong biner to keep you off the ledge. 2 RBs through the honeycomb to a double RB lower. Take a hold home as a souvenir. At the rate the holds break off no 2 ascents will never be the same!
FA: Ness, 2002
Up easy corner (right of 'Honeycomb Arete') and sustained through the crack corner above ledge at half height.
FA: Warwick Baird, 1980
Nice climbing with one sandy move. Use U bolts.
FA: Dave Wagland, 1980
Crag classic. Marked, 1m right of 'Mompox' "Perfectly" chipped holds leading up to left of the grassy pocket, past 4 BRs, then left of the seam through the crux, passing fanil BR to lower off. Double BB anchor for top roping.
FA: Mikl Myers, 1990
2m right of 'Gloucester Buckets' Almost always found seeping and wet. Follow the streak
FA: Mike Law, 1980
Start in the middle of wild cactus. Straight up past manky BR's
FA: Geoff Weigand, 1980
Around to the left of descent ladder. Two very rusted bolts visible. No other pro.
Below the arete 3m left of LP. A variety of interesting and tricky starts, then easily up the twin seams. Recommended to lower off from the first ledge. Only known to have been top roped, but it might be leadable on gear.
The obvious short corner about 10m right of the ladders.
Small wires up the corner, round the roof (a #3 camalot is useful) then up to a large ledge. From here there are a variety of finishes. The direct (up the chossy flake and up to the FH's with signs of surface rust) is a one move wonder of about grade 17. Another alternative is the top section of SM (the next corner to the right with two RB's and slight rope drag).
FA: Mikl Law, 1972
The following five routes are all on the north facing black wall that disappears into the chasm. The wall can be quite greasy and the base can be flooded after prolonged rain.
3m right of LP, at the undercut arete. Delicate moves up the arete (2 RBs), then finish up the corner above. 2 RBs anchor. (Solo on F/A)
FA: Mikl Law, 1985
1m right of K.
Boulder past BR to ledge, then up as you will. (solo on F/A)
FA: Mikl Law, 1985
0.5m right of SP, below thin crack.
Great climbing up the crack (wires, manky PR, BR) and wall to the chossy break (BR). Continue up the pleasant grey wall above (large BR - some bolt brackets don't fit) to the chossy break just below the top. Natural belay (take slings). Would be worth 2 stars if it had a little less choss!
FA: Mikl Law, 1979
Marked. 3m right of T at the blocky corner perched above the filthy pond. Don't know where it goes exactly! Straight up looks unprotected and reasonably difficult. Following the ramp to the right up the gully then up the upper corner looks unpleasant.
A line of chips that finishes at the first choss break. No pro.