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Access Issues:© inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

Descent Notes:©

The climbs from 'Dead Calm' to 'Pylarox' finish under the lookout. NPWS have requested that climbers do not use the lookout for anchoring to - bolt anchors have been placed where necessary. Please use them!

Ethic:© inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Nought

Start: A small slabby wall enclosed by two boulders. Bolt runners and wires needed. Bridge up past the slab, clip BR then move up the wall/arête to the bulge. Wire the crack then move up over the bulge, clipping another BR.

Belay right back on trees.

FA: Scott Clelend, Al Stephens,

18
Mixed 8m , 2
2 Biscuit

Start: A semi-detached arête/wall 3m left of Nought.

Up to break with wires or small Friends, over the bulge and past bolt to the top.

FA: B. Cork, Scott Cleland,

13
Mixed 10m , 1
3 Rolling Stones

Start: At right-hand end of breakaway below short V-chimney.

Through V-chimney and overhang, then jams to top.

FA: Richard Curtis and Phil Prior,

17
Trad 15m
4 ** Little Wonder

‘Little wonder no-one’s done it’ - Because it's so short.

Start: In the bottom of ‘Rolling Stones’ corner.

Climb diagonally left up flake and around rib to make a long reach for finger crack. Move up then step left to finish.

FA: Richard Curtis and Simon Gaye,

18
Trad 15m
5 Fruit Loops and Frosties

Start: 2m left of ‘Little Wonder’.

Up crack to top

FA: Simon Gaye and Richard Curtis,

14
Trad 15m
6 Paranoid Primadona

Start: l0m left of ‘Rolling Stones’.

Up the slightly flaring crack, from hand-jams to off-width.

FA: Al Stephens, Rob Dixon,

16
Trad 15m
7 Boulder

Start:2m left of ‘Paranoid Primadona’.

Up the off width crack to top.

FA: Bob Killip, Brian Birchall, Rob Dixon,

16
Trad 15m
8 Seizure

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

FA: Rob Dixon, Al Stephens, Chris May,

15
Trad 14m
9 * Gung Ho

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up awkward crack to start, finish up chimney.

FA: Al Stephens, R.Dixon,

13
Trad 15m
10 Milkshake

Start: 2m left of ‘Gung Ho’.

Fingery start then up crack.

FA: Phil Prior, Bob Killip,

15
Trad 15m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
11 The Joker

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up hand jam crack in corner.

FA: R. Dixon, A. Stephens,

17
Trad 12m
12 Bash Street

Start: 1m right of ‘Brijit’.

Up the crack with the bush/tree growing out of it.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Killip,

20
Trad 15m
13 Brijit

Start: 6m left of ‘The Joker’.

Up corner with incipient crack.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Killip,

19
Trad 15m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
14 Polynesian Lady

Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit’.

Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Rod Bambach,

17
Trad 15m
15 * Caballero

Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof.

Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top

FA: P. Prior, R. Bambach, R. Dixon, L. Kavalieris,

16
Trad 10m
16 * Bombay Duck

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe,

20
Trad 15m
17 * The Removalist

Start: 5m left of ‘Caballero’.

Hand jam crack trending right to small ledge.

Right across bulge into crack that takes you to stance. Double hangers w/ rap rings.

FA: Brian Birchall, Jill Kelman, Richard Curtis,

15
Trad 15m
18 Cheap Vendetta

Start: As for ‘The Removalist’.

Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner.

Follow crack/corner through small roof to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Brian Birchall,

20
Trad 15m
19 Chocolate Barbarian

Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Richard Curtis, Michael Wust,

23
Trad 15m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
20 ** Dead Calm

Start: 2m Right of ‘Pretty Vacant’, a wall then out right to the arête.

Straight up past 2 BR’s , then move right with difficulty onto the arête, and up past two more BR’s to exit left to double hangers w/ rap rings.

FA: A.Stephens, M.Colyvan,

22
Sport 15m , 4
21 * Pretty Vacant

Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm.

FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio,

20
Trad 15m
22 The Fat Shiela

Better than it looks.

Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces.

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, Richard Thomas,J.Lattanzio,

18
Trad 15m
23 ** Sucking Faces

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas, Cal Finlay,

20
Mixed 15m , 3
24 Pylarox

Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks.

The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens,

15
Trad 15m
25 *** Power Play

Freed of its few aid rests by M. Colyvan and B. Birchall in Jan 1982.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

FA: M. Colyvan, A. Stephens,

23
Trad 15m
26 ** Affection Injection

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up ‘Blinky Bill’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Killip,

18
Trad 15m
27 Blinky Bill

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up hand jam to off width crack.

FA: Joe Friend,

20
Trad 15m
28 Hot Seat

Start: Marked left of ‘Blinky Bill’.

Layback start into jam crack which widens in middle section.

FA: B.Birchall, J.Kelman, R.Curtis,

16
Trad 15m
29 Hobson's Choice

Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat’.

Hand jams to offwidth to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Jerry Maddox,

17
Trad 15m
30 Blitzkrieg Bop

Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall,

19
Trad 15m
31 * Chemical Warfare

Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’.

Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall, B. Killip,

22
Trad 15m
32 * Rubber Ball

Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’.

Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Colin Southwell,

17
Trad 15m
33 *** Narcissus

Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section.

FA: R Curtis,

19
Trad 15m
34 * Supermouse

Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986.

Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus’.

Up the thin crack in the corner.

FA: A. Stephens, R. Dixon,

22
Trad 15m
35 ** Firestorm

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

FA: B. Birchall, J. Kelman, R. Curtis,

17
Trad 15m
36 Goose n' Off

Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up crack then under cling left.

FA: R.Curtis, T.Balla, J.Lattanzio,

19
Trad 15m
37 *** Headbanger

Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon,

21
Mixed 15m , 4
38 Tough Customer

Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.

Up the crack.

FA: J.Lattanzio, M.Colyvan,

21
Trad 15m
39 The Plaquet

Start: Left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up the wide crack

FA: J. Maddox, R. Curtis,

16
Trad 15m
40 Wake in Fright

Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’.

Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.

FA: B Birchall, P. Prior,

17
Trad 15m
41 ** Dream of the Devil

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

FA: M.Colyvan,

21
Mixed 15m , 2
42 Badarse

Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright’.

Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks.

FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens,

17
Trad 15m
43 Sundown

Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986.

Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall.

4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top.

FA: A. Stephens, J Kelman,

20 M1
Mixed 15m , 4
44 Blackberry Nip

Start: Below largest crack line in lower buttress of breakaway.

Up crack.

FA: Joe Friend (solo),

9
Trad 15m