First time here?

theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.

You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...

» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a question

Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park



Access is via a path which winds down through an obvious break in the cliff about 40m left (facing out into the gorge) of the upper falls lookout.

The climbs are described Right to Left (facing the cliff) and the first routes are left of where you descend.

Descent notes

The climbs from 'Dead Calm' to 'Pylarox' finish under the lookout. NPWS have requested that climbers do not use the lookout for anchoring to - bolt anchors have been placed where necessary. Please use them!

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.



Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route

Right of the lookout

Right when looking up at the cliff. Access from the descent track to the west or rap off the big tree just next to the lookup.

18 Nought Mixed 8m, 2

Start: A small slabby wall enclosed by two boulders. Bolt runners and wires needed. Bridge up past the slab, clip BR then move up the wall/arête to the bulge. Wire the crack then move up over the bulge, clipping another BR.

Belay right back on trees.

FA: Scott Clelend & Al Stephens, 1994

13 Biscuit Mixed 10m, 1

Start: A semi-detached arête/wall 3m left of Nought.

Up to break with wires or small Friends, over the bulge and past bolt to the top.

FA: B. Cork & Scott Cleland, 1994

17 * Rolling Stones Trad 15m

Start: At right-hand end of breakaway below short V-chimney.

Through V-chimney and overhang, then jams to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Phil Prior, 1977

18 * Little Wonder Trad 15m

‘Little wonder no-one’s done it’ - Because it's so short.

Start: In the bottom of ‘Rolling Stones’ corner.

Climb diagonally left up flake and around rib to make a long reach for finger crack. Move up then step left to finish.

FA: Richard Curtis & Simon Gaye, 1984


Start: 2m left of ‘Little Wonder’.

Up crack to top

FA: Simon Gaye & Richard Curtis, 1984

16 Paranoid Primadona Trad 15m

Start: l0m left of ‘Rolling Stones’.

Up the slightly flaring crack, from hand-jams to off-width.

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Dixon, 1975

16 Boulder Trad 15m

Start:2m left of ‘Paranoid Primadona’.

Up the off width crack to top.

FA: Bob Killip, Brian Birchall & Rob Dixon, 1975

15 * Seizure Trad 14m

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

FA: Rob Dixon, Al Stephens & Chris May, 1975

13 Gung Ho Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up initial crack and then an awkward move to turn the overlap on its left and get established on a small slab. Finish up chimney/corner.

FA: Al Stephens & R.Dixon, 1975

15 Milkshake Trad 15m

Start: 2m left of ‘Gung Ho’.

Fingery start then up crack.

FA: Phil Prior & Bob Killip, 1976

17 * The Joker Trad 12m

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up short chimney and then the corner crack. (The corner has been extensively cleaned in recent years making it substantially easier - perhaps 16?)

FA: R. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1975

20 * Bash Street Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Brijit’.

Up the crack with the bush/tree growing out of it.

FA: R. Curtis & B. Killip, 1977

19 * Brijit Trad 15m

Start: This is the easy-angled corner with a small tree at 2/3 height. (6m left of ‘The Joker’ and about 3m right of Polynesian Lady). Much more interesting than it looks.

The climb was originally graded 19 because of lack of protection near the ground. There is now a good wire placement about halfway between the ground and the small tree so perhaps there is a case for reviewing the grade.

Up corner with incipient crack.

FA: R. Curtis & B. Killip, 1977

17 * Polynesian Lady Trad 15m

Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit’.

Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Rod Bambach, 1977

16 * Caballero Trad 10m

Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof.

Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top

FA: P. Prior, R. Bambach, R. Dixon & L. Kavalieris, 1976

20 ** Bombay Duck Trad 15m

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

FA: Al Stephens & Ed Sharpe, 1982

15 * The Removalist Trad 15m

Start: A few metres upstream of the lookout below an obvious handjamb crack which turns into a rightwards diagonal.

Climb the handjamb crack and the rightwards diagonal which leads into a vertical crack. Up this to a stance with double hangers and rap rings.

  • Take care with the moveable block at the top of the initial crack. - It seems to be locked in, but "forewarned is forearmed".

FA: Brian Birchall, Jill Kelman & Richard Curtis, 1976

20 ** Cheap Vendetta Trad 15m

Start: As for ‘The Removalist’.

Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner.

Follow crack/corner through small roof to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1981


The first ascent caused some local controversy because the bolt is too close to Cheap Vendetta and makes it safer. Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Richard Curtis & Michael Wust, 1984

Under the lookout

The climbs from 'Dead Calm' to 'Pylarox' finish under the lookout. NPWS have requested that climbers do not use the lookout for anchoring to - bolt anchors have been placed where necessary. Please use them!

Also rubbish dropped from the lookout tends to accumulate here, please take out anything you find.

22 ** Dead Calm Sport 15m, 4

Start: 2m Right of ‘Pretty Vacant’, a wall then out right to the arête.

Straight up past 2 BR’s , then move right with difficulty onto the arête, and up past two more BR’s to exit left to double hangers w/ rap rings.

FA: A.Stephens & M.Colyvan, 1989

20 * Pretty Vacant Trad 15m

Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm.

FA: M. Colyvan & J. Lattanzio, 1982

18 * The Fat Shiela Trad 15m

Better than it looks.

Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces.

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, Richard Thomas & J.Lattanzio, 1986

20 ** Sucking Faces Mixed 15m, 3

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas & Cal Finlay, 1985

15 Pylarox Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks.

The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move.

FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1986

Left of the lookout

23 ** Power Play Trad 15m

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

FA: M. Colyvan & A. Stephens, 1982

FFA: M. Colyvan & B. Birchall, 1992


Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up ‘Blinky Bill’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top.

FA: R. Curtis & B. Killip, 1977

20 Blinky Bill Trad 15m

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up hand jam to off width crack.

FA: Joe Friend, 1977

16 Hot Seat Trad 15m

Start: Marked left of ‘Blinky Bill’.

Layback start into jam crack which widens in middle section.

FA: B.Birchall, J.Kelman & R.Curtis, 1976

17 * Hobson's Choice Trad 15m

Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat’.

Hand jams to offwidth to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Jerry Maddox, 1976

19 ** Blitzkrieg Bop Trad 15m

Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.

FA: M. Colyvan & B. Birchall, 1982

22 * Chemical Warfare Trad 15m

Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’.

Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall & B. Killip, 1981

17 Rubber Ball Trad 15m

Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’.

Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Colin Southwell, 1976

19 ** Narcissus Trad 15m

Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section.

FA: R Curtis, 1976

22 *** Supermouse Trad 15m

Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986.

Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus’.

Up the thin crack in the corner.

FA: A. Stephens & R. Dixon, 1975

Left of Firestorm

The white gum tree on the top of the cliff which is grown into the fence is directly above 'Firestorm' and a convenient rap anchor.

17 ** Firestorm Trad 15m

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

FA: B. Birchall, J. Kelman & R. Curtis, 1976

19 ** Goose n' Off Trad 15m

Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up crack then under cling left.

FA: R.Curtis, T.Balla & J.Lattanzio, 1988

21 ** Headbanger Mixed 15m, 4

Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).

FA: A.Stephens & L.Dixon, 1987

21 * Tough Customer Trad 15m

Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.

Up the crack.

FA: J.Lattanzio & M.Colyvan, 1988

16 The Plaquet Trad 15m

Start: Left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up the wide crack

FA: J. Maddox & R. Curtis, 1976

17 Wake in Fright Trad 15m

Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’.

Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.

FA: B Birchall & P. Prior, 1976

21 ** Dream of the Devil Mixed 15m, 2

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

FA: M.Colyvan, 1988

17 Badarse Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright’.

Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks.

FA: L.Dixon & A.Stephens, 1988

20 M1 Sundown Mixed 15m, 4

Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986.

Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall.

4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top.

FA: A. Stephens & J Kelman, 1975

Lower buttress

9 Blackberry Nip Trad 15m

Start: Below largest crack line in lower buttress of breakaway.

Up crack.

FA: Joe Friend (solo), 1977


Check out what is happening in First Breakaway.