First Breakaway Mostly trad climbing44 routes in cliff
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Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge
Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.
If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.©
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Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit’.
Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top.
FA: Richard Curtis & Rod Bambach
Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof.
Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top
FA: P. Prior, R. Bambach, R. Dixon & L. Kavalieris
Start: 5m left of ‘Caballero’.
Hand jam crack trending right to small ledge.
Right across bulge into crack that takes you to stance. Double hangers w/ rap rings.
FA: Brian Birchall, Jill Kelman & Richard Curtis
Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist’.
Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Richard Curtis & Michael Wust
Start: 2m Right of ‘Pretty Vacant’, a wall then out right to the arête.
Straight up past 2 BR’s , then move right with difficulty onto the arête, and up past two more BR’s to exit left to double hangers w/ rap rings.
FA: A.Stephens & M.Colyvan
A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.
Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.
Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.
FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas & Cal Finlay
Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks.
The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move.
FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens
Freed of its few aid rests by M. Colyvan and B. Birchall in Jan 1982.
Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.
Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.
FA: M. Colyvan & A. Stephens
Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.
Up hand jam to off width crack.
FA: Joe Friend
Start: Marked left of ‘Blinky Bill’.
Layback start into jam crack which widens in middle section.
FA: B.Birchall, J.Kelman & R.Curtis
Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat’.
Hand jams to offwidth to top.
FA: Richard Curtis & Jerry Maddox
Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’.
Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.
FA: M. Colyvan & B. Birchall
Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’.
Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.
FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall & B. Killip
Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’.
Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top.
FA: Richard Curtis & Colin Southwell
Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball’.
Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section.
FA: R Curtis
Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986.
Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus’.
Up the thin crack in the corner.
FA: A. Stephens & R. Dixon
Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.
Hand jam crack with tricky finish.
FA: B. Birchall, J. Kelman & R. Curtis
Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm’.
Up crack then under cling left.
FA: R.Curtis, T.Balla & J.Lattanzio
Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’.
Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).
FA: A.Stephens & L.Dixon
Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.
Up the crack.
FA: J.Lattanzio & M.Colyvan
Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’.
Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.
FA: B Birchall & P. Prior
Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.
Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).
Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright’.
Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks.
FA: L.Dixon & A.Stephens
Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986.
Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall.
4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top.
FA: A. Stephens & J Kelman
Start: Below largest crack line in lower buttress of breakaway.
FA: Joe Friend (solo)