Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Nought
Start: A small slabby wall enclosed by two boulders. Bolt runners and wires needed. Bridge up past the slab, clip BR then move up the wall/arête to the bulge. Wire the crack then move up over the bulge, clipping another BR.
Belay right back on trees.
FA: Scott Clelend, Al Stephens,
18
Mixed 8m
, 2
2
Biscuit
Start: A semi-detached arête/wall 3m left of Nought .
Up to break with wires or small Friends, over the bulge and past bolt to the top.
FA: B. Cork, Scott Cleland,
13
Mixed 10m
, 1
3
Rolling Stones
Start: At right-hand end of breakaway below short V-chimney.
Through V-chimney and overhang, then jams to top.
FA: Richard Curtis and Phil Prior,
17
Trad 15m
4
Little Wonder
‘Little wonder no-one’s done it’ - Because it's so short.
Start: In the bottom of ‘Rolling Stones ’ corner.
Climb diagonally left up flake and around rib to make a long reach for finger crack. Move up then step left to finish.
FA: Richard Curtis and Simon Gaye,
18
Trad 15m
5
Fruit Loops and Frosties
Start: 2m left of ‘Little Wonder ’.
Up crack to top
FA: Simon Gaye and Richard Curtis,
14
Trad 15m
6
Paranoid Primadona
Start: l0m left of ‘Rolling Stones ’.
Up the slightly flaring crack, from hand-jams to off-width.
FA: Al Stephens, Rob Dixon,
16
Trad 15m
7
Boulder
Start:2m left of ‘Paranoid Primadona ’.
Up the off width crack to top.
FA: Bob Killip, Brian Birchall, Rob Dixon,
16
Trad 15m
8
Seizure
Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder ’.
A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.
FA: Rob Dixon, Al Stephens, Chris May,
15
Trad 14m
9
Gung Ho
Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.
Up awkward crack to start, finish up chimney.
FA: Al Stephens, R.Dixon,
13
Trad 15m
10
Milkshake
Start: 2m left of ‘Gung Ho ’.
Fingery start then up crack.
FA: Phil Prior, Bob Killip,
15
Trad 15m
Route Grade Style Popularity
11
The Joker
Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake ’.
Up hand jam crack in corner.
FA: R. Dixon, A. Stephens,
17
Trad 12m
12
Bash Street
Start: 1m right of ‘Brijit ’.
Up the crack with the bush/tree growing out of it.
FA: R. Curtis, B. Killip,
20
Trad 15m
13
Brijit
Start: 6m left of ‘The Joker ’.
Up corner with incipient crack.
FA: R. Curtis, B. Killip,
19
Trad 15m
Route Grade Style Popularity
14
Polynesian Lady
Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit ’.
Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top.
FA: Richard Curtis, Rod Bambach,
17
Trad 15m
15
Caballero
Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady ’ and immediately left of small roof.
Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top
FA: P. Prior, R. Bambach, R. Dixon, L. Kavalieris,
16
Trad 10m
16
Bombay Duck
A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.
Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist ’.
Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist ’.
FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe,
20
Trad 15m
17
The Removalist
Start: 5m left of ‘Caballero ’.
Hand jam crack trending right to small ledge.
Right across bulge into crack that takes you to stance. Double hangers w/ rap rings.
FA: Brian Birchall, Jill Kelman, Richard Curtis,
15
Trad 15m
18
Cheap Vendetta
Start: As for ‘The Removalist ’.
Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist ’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner.
Follow crack/corner through small roof to top.
FA: Mark Colyvan, Brian Birchall,
20
Trad 15m
19
Chocolate Barbarian
Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist ’.
Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top.
FA: Kevin Lindorff, Richard Curtis, Michael Wust,
23
Trad 15m
Route Grade Style Popularity
20
Dead Calm
Start: 2m Right of ‘Pretty Vacant ’, a wall then out right to the arête.
Straight up past 2 BR’s , then move right with difficulty onto the arête, and up past two more BR’s to exit left to double hangers w/ rap rings.
FA: A.Stephens, M.Colyvan,
22
Sport 15m
, 4
21
Pretty Vacant
Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist ’.
Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm .
FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio,
20
Trad 15m
22
The Fat Shiela
Better than it looks.
Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant ’.
Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces .
FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, Richard Thomas,J.Lattanzio,
18
Trad 15m
23
Sucking Faces
A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.
Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant ’.
Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.
FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas, Cal Finlay,
20
Mixed 15m
, 3
24
Pylarox
Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant ’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks.
The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move.
FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens,
15
Trad 15m
25
Power Play
Freed of its few aid rests by M. Colyvan and B. Birchall in Jan 1982.
Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant ’.
Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.
FA: M. Colyvan, A. Stephens,
23
Trad 15m
26
Affection Injection
Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play ’.
Up ‘Blinky Bill ’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top.
FA: R. Curtis, B. Killip,
18
Trad 15m
27
Blinky Bill
Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play ’.
Up hand jam to off width crack.
FA: Joe Friend,
20
Trad 15m
28
Hot Seat
Start: Marked left of ‘Blinky Bill ’.
Layback start into jam crack which widens in middle section.
FA: B.Birchall, J.Kelman, R.Curtis,
16
Trad 15m
29
Hobson's Choice
Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat ’.
Hand jams to offwidth to top.
FA: Richard Curtis, Jerry Maddox,
17
Trad 15m
30
Blitzkrieg Bop
Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball ’.
Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.
FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall,
19
Trad 15m
31
Chemical Warfare
Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop ’.
Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.
FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall, B. Killip,
22
Trad 15m
32
Rubber Ball
Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’.
Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top.
FA: Richard Curtis, Colin Southwell,
17
Trad 15m
33
Narcissus
Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball ’.
Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section.
FA: R Curtis,
19
Trad 15m
34
Supermouse
Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986.
Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus ’.
Up the thin crack in the corner.
FA: A. Stephens, R. Dixon,
22
Trad 15m
35
Firestorm
Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse ’.
Hand jam crack with tricky finish.
FA: B. Birchall, J. Kelman, R. Curtis,
17
Trad 15m
36
Goose n' Off
Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm ’.
Up crack then under cling left.
FA: R.Curtis, T.Balla, J.Lattanzio,
19
Trad 15m
37
Headbanger
Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm ’.
Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).
FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon,
21
Mixed 15m
, 4
38
Tough Customer
Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger ’.
Up the crack.
FA: J.Lattanzio, M.Colyvan,
21
Trad 15m
39
The Plaquet
Start: Left of ‘Firestorm ’.
Up the wide crack
FA: J. Maddox, R. Curtis,
16
Trad 15m
40
Wake in Fright
Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet ’.
Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.
FA: B Birchall, P. Prior,
17
Trad 15m
41
Dream of the Devil
Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright ’. The arête.
Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).
FA: M.Colyvan,
21
Mixed 15m
, 2
42
Badarse
Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright ’.
Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks.
FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens,
17
Trad 15m
43
Sundown
Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986.
Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall.
4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top.
FA: A. Stephens, J Kelman,
20 M1
Mixed 15m
, 4
44
Blackberry Nip
Start: Below largest crack line in lower buttress of breakaway.
Up crack.
FA: Joe Friend (solo),
9
Trad 15m