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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

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Approach

Access is via a path which winds down through an obvious break in the cliff about 40m left (facing out into the gorge) of the upper falls lookout.

The climbs are described Right to Left (facing the cliff) and the first routes are left of where you descend.

Descent notes

The climbs from 'Dead Calm' to 'Pylarox' finish under the lookout. NPWS have requested that climbers do not use the lookout for anchoring to - bolt anchors have been placed where necessary. Please use them!

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Routes

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Grade Route

Right when looking up at the cliff. Access from the descent track to the west or rap off the big tree just next to the lookup.

Start: A small slabby wall enclosed by two boulders. Bolt runners and wires needed. Bridge up past the slab, clip BR then move up the wall/arête to the bulge. Wire the crack then move up over the bulge, clipping another BR.

Belay right back on trees.

FA: Scott Cleland & Al Stephens, 1994

Start: A semi-detached arête/wall 3m left of Nought.

Up to break with wires or small Friends, over the bulge and past bolt to the top.

FA: Brian Cork & Scott Cleland, 1994

Start: At right-hand end of breakaway below short V-chimney.

Through V-chimney and overhang, then jams to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Phil Prior, 1977

‘Little wonder no-one’s done it’ - Because it's so short.

Start: In the bottom of ‘Rolling Stones’ corner.

Climb diagonally left up flake and around rib to make a long reach for finger crack. Move up then step left to finish.

FA: Richard Curtis & Simon Gaye, 1984

Start: 2m left of ‘Little Wonder’.

Up crack to top

FA: Simon Gaye & Richard Curtis, 1984

Start: l0m left of ‘Rolling Stones’.

Up the slightly flaring crack, from hand-jams to off-width.

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Dixon, 1975

Start:2m left of ‘Paranoid Primadona’.

Up the off width crack to top.

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

FA: Rob Dixon, Al Stephens & Chris May, 1975

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up initial crack and then an awkward move to turn the overlap on its left and get established on a small slab. Finish up chimney/corner.

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Dixon, 1975

Start: 2m left of ‘Gung Ho’.

Fingery start then up crack.

FA: Phil Prior & bobkillip, 1976

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up short chimney and then the corner crack. (The corner has been extensively cleaned in recent years making it substantially easier - perhaps 16?)

FA: Rob Dixon & Al Stephens, 1975

Start: 1m right of ‘Brijit’.

Up the crack with the bush/tree growing out of it.

Start: This is the easy-angled corner with a small tree at 2/3 height. (6m left of ‘The Joker’ and about 3m right of Polynesian Lady). Much more interesting than it looks.

The climb was originally graded 19 because of lack of protection near the ground. There is now a good wire placement about halfway between the ground and the small tree so perhaps there is a case for reviewing the grade.

Up corner with incipient crack.

Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit’.

Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Rod Bambach, 1977

Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof.

Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top

FA: Phil Prior, Rod Bambach, Rob Dixon & Laimonis Kavalieris, 1976

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

FA: Al Stephens & Ed Sharpe, 1982

Start: A few metres upstream of the lookout below an obvious handjamb crack which turns into a rightwards diagonal.

Climb the handjamb crack and the rightwards diagonal which leads into a vertical crack. Up this to a stance with double hangers and rap rings.

  • Take care with the moveable block at the top of the initial crack. - It seems to be locked in, but "forewarned is forearmed".

Start: As for ‘The Removalist’.

Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner.

Follow crack/corner through small roof to top.

The first ascent caused some local controversy because the bolt is too close to Cheap Vendetta and makes it safer. Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael Wust & Richard Curtis, 1984

The climbs from 'Dead Calm' to 'Pylarox' finish under the lookout. NPWS have requested that climbers do not use the lookout for anchoring to - bolt anchors have been placed where necessary. Please use them!

Also rubbish dropped from the lookout tends to accumulate here, please take out anything you find.

Start: 2m Right of ‘Pretty Vacant’, a wall then out right to the arête.

Straight up past 2 BR’s , then move right with difficulty onto the arête, and up past two more BR’s to exit left to double hangers w/ rap rings.

Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm.

Better than it looks.

Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces.

FA: Al Stephens, Larry Dixon, Richard Thomas & John Lattanzio, 1986

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas & Cal Finlay, 1985

Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks.

The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move.

FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1986

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up ‘Blinky Bill’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top.

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up hand jam to off width crack.

FA: Joe Friend, 1977

Start: Marked left of ‘Blinky Bill’.

Layback start into jam crack which widens in middle section.

Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat’.

Hand jams to offwidth to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Jerry Maddox, 1976

Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.

Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’.

Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.

Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’.

Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Colin Southwell, 1976

Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section.

FA: Richard Curtis, 1976

Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986.

Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus’.

Up the thin crack in the corner.

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Dixon, 1975

The white gum tree on the top of the cliff which is grown into the fence is directly above 'Firestorm' and a convenient rap anchor.

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up crack then under cling left.

FA: Richard Curtis, Tim Balla & John Lattanzio, 1988

Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).

FA: Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1987

Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.

Up the crack.

Start: Left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up the wide crack

FA: Jerry Maddox & Richard Curtis, 1976

Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’.

Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.

FA: Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1976

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

FA: Mark Colyvan, 1988

Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright’.

Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks.

FA: Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986.

Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall.

4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top.

FA: Al Stephens & Jill Kelman, 1975

Start: Below largest crack line in lower buttress of breakaway.

Up crack.

FA: Joe Friend (Solo), 1977

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