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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

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Descent Notes

The climbs from 'Dead Calm' to 'Pylarox' finish under the lookout. NPWS have requested that climbers do not use the lookout for anchoring to - bolt anchors have been placed where necessary. Please use them!

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Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Nought Mixed 8m, 2

Start: A small slabby wall enclosed by two boulders. Bolt runners and wires needed. Bridge up past the slab, clip BR then move up the wall/arête to the bulge. Wire the crack then move up over the bulge, clipping another BR.

Belay right back on trees.

FA: Scott Clelend, Al Stephens

2
13 Biscuit Mixed 10m, 1

Start: A semi-detached arête/wall 3m left of Nought.

Up to break with wires or small Friends, over the bulge and past bolt to the top.

FA: B. Cork, Scott Cleland

3
17 Rolling Stones Trad 15m

Start: At right-hand end of breakaway below short V-chimney.

Through V-chimney and overhang, then jams to top.

FA: Richard Curtis and Phil Prior

4
18 ** Little Wonder Trad 15m

‘Little wonder no-one’s done it’ - Because it's so short.

Start: In the bottom of ‘Rolling Stones’ corner.

Climb diagonally left up flake and around rib to make a long reach for finger crack. Move up then step left to finish.

FA: Richard Curtis and Simon Gaye

5

Start: 2m left of ‘Little Wonder’.

Up crack to top

FA: Simon Gaye and Richard Curtis

6
16 Paranoid Primadona Trad 15m

Start: l0m left of ‘Rolling Stones’.

Up the slightly flaring crack, from hand-jams to off-width.

FA: Al Stephens, Rob Dixon

7
16 Boulder Trad 15m

Start:2m left of ‘Paranoid Primadona’.

Up the off width crack to top.

FA: Bob Killip, Brian Birchall, Rob Dixon

8
15 Seizure Trad 14m

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

FA: Rob Dixon, Al Stephens, Chris May

9
13 * Gung Ho Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up awkward crack to start, finish up chimney.

FA: Al Stephens, R.Dixon

10
15 Milkshake Trad 15m

Start: 2m left of ‘Gung Ho’.

Fingery start then up crack.

FA: Phil Prior, Bob Killip

11
17 The Joker Trad 12m

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up hand jam crack in corner.

FA: R. Dixon, A. Stephens

12
20 Bash Street Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Brijit’.

Up the crack with the bush/tree growing out of it.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Killip

13
19 Brijit Trad 15m

Start: 6m left of ‘The Joker’.

Up corner with incipient crack.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Killip

14
17 Polynesian Lady Trad 15m

Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit’.

Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Rod Bambach

15
16 * Caballero Trad 10m

Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof.

Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top

FA: P. Prior, R. Bambach, R. Dixon, L. Kavalieris

16
20 * Bombay Duck Trad 15m

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe

17
15 * The Removalist Trad 15m

Start: 5m left of ‘Caballero’.

Hand jam crack trending right to small ledge.

Right across bulge into crack that takes you to stance. Double hangers w/ rap rings.

FA: Brian Birchall, Jill Kelman, Richard Curtis

18
20 Cheap Vendetta Trad 15m

Start: As for ‘The Removalist’.

Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner.

Follow crack/corner through small roof to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan, Brian Birchall

19

Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, Richard Curtis, Michael Wust

20
22 ** Dead Calm Sport 15m, 4

Start: 2m Right of ‘Pretty Vacant’, a wall then out right to the arête.

Straight up past 2 BR’s , then move right with difficulty onto the arête, and up past two more BR’s to exit left to double hangers w/ rap rings.

FA: A.Stephens, M.Colyvan

21
20 * Pretty Vacant Trad 15m

Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm.

FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio

22
18 The Fat Shiela Trad 15m

Better than it looks.

Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces.

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, Richard Thomas,J.Lattanzio

23
20 ** Sucking Faces Mixed 15m, 3

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

FA: Al Stephens, Richard Thomas, Cal Finlay

24
15 Pylarox Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks.

The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens

25
23 *** Power Play Trad 15m

Freed of its few aid rests by M. Colyvan and B. Birchall in Jan 1982.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

FA: M. Colyvan, A. Stephens

26

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up ‘Blinky Bill’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top.

FA: R. Curtis, B. Killip

27
20 Blinky Bill Trad 15m

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up hand jam to off width crack.

FA: Joe Friend

28
16 Hot Seat Trad 15m

Start: Marked left of ‘Blinky Bill’.

Layback start into jam crack which widens in middle section.

FA: B.Birchall, J.Kelman, R.Curtis

29
17 Hobson's Choice Trad 15m

Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat’.

Hand jams to offwidth to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Jerry Maddox

30
19 Blitzkrieg Bop Trad 15m

Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall

31
22 * Chemical Warfare Trad 15m

Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’.

Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall, B. Killip

32
17 * Rubber Ball Trad 15m

Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’.

Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Colin Southwell

33
19 *** Narcissus Trad 15m

Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section.

FA: R Curtis

34
22 * Supermouse Trad 15m

Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986.

Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus’.

Up the thin crack in the corner.

FA: A. Stephens, R. Dixon

35
17 ** Firestorm Trad 15m

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

FA: B. Birchall, J. Kelman, R. Curtis

36
19 Goose n' Off Trad 15m

Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up crack then under cling left.

FA: R.Curtis, T.Balla, J.Lattanzio

37
21 *** Headbanger Mixed 15m, 4

Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon

38
21 Tough Customer Trad 15m

Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.

Up the crack.

FA: J.Lattanzio, M.Colyvan

39
16 The Plaquet Trad 15m

Start: Left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up the wide crack

FA: J. Maddox, R. Curtis

40
17 Wake in Fright Trad 15m

Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’.

Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.

FA: B Birchall, P. Prior

41
21 ** Dream of the Devil Mixed 15m, 2

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

FA: M.Colyvan

42
17 Badarse Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright’.

Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks.

FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens

43
20 M1 Sundown Mixed 15m, 4

Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986.

Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall.

4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top.

FA: A. Stephens, J Kelman

44
9 Blackberry Nip Trad 15m

Start: Below largest crack line in lower buttress of breakaway.

Up crack.

FA: Joe Friend (solo)