Routes as trad in First Breakaway

Start: A small slabby wall enclosed by two boulders. Bolt runners and wires needed. Bridge up past the slab, clip BR then move up the wall/arête to the bulge. Wire the crack then move up over the bulge, clipping another BR.

Belay right back on trees.

Start: A semi-detached arête/wall 3m left of Nought.

Up to break with wires or small Friends, over the bulge and past bolt to the top.

Start: At right-hand end of breakaway below short V-chimney.

Through V-chimney and overhang, then jams to top.

‘Little wonder no-one’s done it’ - Because it's so short.

Start: In the bottom of ‘Rolling Stones’ corner.

Climb diagonally left up flake and around rib to make a long reach for finger crack. Move up then step left to finish.

Start: 2m left of ‘Little Wonder’.

Up crack to top

Start: l0m left of ‘Rolling Stones’.

Up the slightly flaring crack, from hand-jams to off-width.

Start:2m left of ‘Paranoid Primadona’.

Up the off width crack to top.

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up initial crack and then an awkward move to turn the overlap on its left and get established on a small slab. Finish up chimney/corner.

Start: 2m left of ‘Gung Ho’.

Fingery start then up crack.

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up short chimney and then the corner crack. (The corner has been extensively cleaned in recent years making it substantially easier - perhaps 16?)

Start: 1m right of ‘Brijit’.

Up the crack with the bush/tree growing out of it.

Start: This is the easy-angled corner with a small tree at 2/3 height. (6m left of ‘The Joker’ and about 3m right of Polynesian Lady). Much more interesting than it looks.

The climb was originally graded 19 because of lack of protection near the ground. There is now a good wire placement about halfway between the ground and the small tree so perhaps there is a case for reviewing the grade.

Up corner with incipient crack.

Start: A couple of metres left of ‘Brijit’.

Up fingery crack start to hand crack and over some sword grass to top.

Start: 2m left of ‘Polynesian Lady’ and immediately left of small roof.

Up to the left of roof to off width corner. Continue to top

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

Start: A few metres upstream of the lookout below an obvious handjamb crack which turns into a rightwards diagonal.

Climb the handjamb crack and the rightwards diagonal which leads into a vertical crack. Up this to a stance with double hangers and rap rings.

• Take care with the moveable block at the top of the initial crack. - It seems to be locked in, but "forewarned is forearmed".

Start: As for ‘The Removalist’.

Up the crack as for ‘The Removalist’ until the diagonal, then step left into thin crack/corner.

Follow crack/corner through small roof to top.

The first ascent caused some local controversy because the bolt is too close to Cheap Vendetta and makes it safer. Start: The arête just left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the arête, via a single bolt runner, to top.

Start: About l0m left of ‘The Removalist’.

Up the slightly flared crack to belay as for Dead Calm.

Better than it looks.

Start: 1m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up the wide crack, over bulge, then narrow crack to exit, left and belay as for Sucking Faces.

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

Start: 3m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’ is a corner that leads to a leaning pile of rocks.

The corner, then bridge delicately out and around the roof. A fixed wire protects the last move.

Start: About 10m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Up flared crack. Two hangers for anchor, about 2m back from edge under shrubs.

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up ‘Blinky Bill’ for a move or two then face climb right to bottom of incipient crack. Up crack to top.

Start: 4m left of ‘Power Play’.

Up hand jam to off width crack.

Start: Marked left of ‘Blinky Bill’.

Layback start into jam crack which widens in middle section.

Start: l0m left of ‘Hot Seat’.

Hand jams to offwidth to top.

Start: About 3m right of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short corner to ledge, then take thin twin cracks on the right which lead to a wider crack above.

Start: As for ‘Blitzkrieg Bop’.

Up short corner to ledge, then up thin crack at the back of the ledge.

Start: About 5m left of ‘Hobson’s Choice’.

Onto ledge from left then fist jam crack to top.

Start: 2m left of ‘Rubber Ball’.

Up short wall, then finger crack through bulging central section.

Originally all aid ( M2), but was freed by John Lattanzio and Tim Balla in June 1986.

Start: 1m left of ‘Narcissus’.

Up the thin crack in the corner.

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

Start: 1m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up crack then under cling left.

Start: The bolted wall 10m left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up wall/arête past a #4 Friend placement and four BR’s. Double bolt anchor on top. (Hard to find).

Start: The crack in the corner 1m left of ‘Headbanger’.

Up the crack.

Start: Left of ‘Firestorm’.

Up the wide crack

Start: Left of ‘The Plaquet’.

Reasonable hand jams to dubious hand jams. Out onto sloping ledge.

Start: About 2m left of ‘Wake In Fright’. The arête.

Up the arête past 2 fixed hangers and some wires to double bolt belay on top (about 5m back from the edge of the cliff- difficult to find).

Start: 3m left of ‘Wake In Fright’.

Climb the right-hand of the twin cracks.

A two-pitch wonder.... Starts 5m's R of the yellow rock close to the falls. Up potentially damp black crack to large vegetated ledge then up obvious short corner crack.

Originally all aid (M1) however all but the first four points (bolts) were eliminated by Al Stephens and Graeme Stewart in August 1986.

Start: From the tree nearest the waterfall.

4 bolts for M1 aid to gain thin crack, then free to top.

Start: Below largest crack line in lower buttress of breakaway.

Up crack.

Unknown details, mentioned in 'Screamer' mag issue 9, 1981