Route Grade Style Popularity
1
Old Punks and Young Hippies
Start: At the extreme left-hand end of the 2nd breakaway, i.e. left of Touched .
Up arête below 2 roofs. Up crack to roof, through roof to ledge then to top.
FA: L.Dixon and party,
16
Trad 15m
2
Retired Hippies and Young Punks
12
Unknown
3
Unknown bolted roof
21
Unknown
4
Touched
Some people will do anything to see their name in print!
Start: The scrubby gully at the left hand end of the cliff, 3m left of ‘Hitman ’.
Up twin cracks and mank.
FA: M. Colyvan (solo),
4
Trad 15m
5
Sex and Intrigue
Start: The small, 1m roof near the left-hand end of the cliff, 15m right of ‘Hitman ’.
Up crack under roof, clip bolt then surmount roof, and continue past a break to top. Belay on trees further back
FA: Gordon Low, Al Stephens, Brian Cork, Toby Waters,
20
Mixed 8m
, 1
6
Little Shop of Horrors
Start: 2m left of ‘Hitman ’.
Up a little slab then up the arete using the left hand edge. Two bolts and some wires provide the protection.
FA: Al Stephens, Larry Dixon,
16
Mixed 15m
, 2
7
Hitman
Start: Below the obvious crack up the first good rock you come to.
Up wall to crack and on to top.
FA: M Colyvan, J Lattanzio,
15
Trad 15m
8
True Confessions
Start: 3m right of ‘Hitman ’.
Up fist jam crack to small roof and over to top.
FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio,
10
Trad 15m
9
Straight Jacket
Start: The flake crack 4m right of ‘True Confessions ’.
Up the crack.
FA: Ed Sharpe et al,
14
Trad 15m
10
Mischief
Start: 9m right of ‘True Confessions ’.
Up crack to stance and on to top.
FA: M.Colyvan, G.Pritchard,
15
Trad 15m
11
Snakes and Ladders
Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief ’.
Up twin cracks to top.
FA: J. Lattanzio, M Colyvan, 1980
13
Trad 15m
Route Grade Style Popularity
12
Modern Electrics
Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders ’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked ’.
Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.
FA: L Dixon, A Stephens,
17
Mixed 15m
, 4
13
Whale Oil Beef Hooked
Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders ’.
Up thin corner crack to top.
FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan,
16
Trad 15m
14
Passing the Buck
Start: About 3m left of ‘Interlude ’.
Up crack.
FA: Mike Peck, Greg Croft,
16
Trad 10m
15
Interlude
A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.
Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney ’.
A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.
FA: G. Croft, R. Rose, 1981
14
Trad 10m
16
Epileptic Chimney
A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.
Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs ’.
Up chimney.
FA: M. Colyvan (solo), 1980
3
Trad 10m
17
Funky Monkey
Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder.
Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro.
FA: James Langston, Al Stephens, 1998
20
Mixed 12m
, 2
18
Ivory Stairs
Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked ’.
Loose in parts.
Up corner to roof, step left and up to top.
FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan, 1980
15
Trad 15m
19
Ilean
Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs ’ and ‘Submission ’.
Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection.
FA: A. Stephens, L Dixon, 1987
20
Mixed 15m
, 3
20
Submission
Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean ’.
Up crack to top.
FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio, 1980
17
Trad 15m
21
Staircase Chimney
Start: 3m right of ‘Submission ’.
Scramble up broken rock and into chimney and on to top.
FA: R. Curtis (solo), 1976
6
Trad 15m
22
Mantle as Anything
Start: 1m right of ‘Staircase Chimney ’.
Up wall to crack then to top.
FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio, 1980
14
Trad 15m
23
Plastic Passion
Start: 1m right of ‘Mantle As Anything ’.
Bridge up over blocks then take the off-width crack on the left to top
FA: M. Colyvan, A. Legler, E. Sharpe, 1980
12
Trad 15m
Route Grade Style Popularity
24
Contrivia
Start: As for ‘Plastic Passion.
A bit silly.
Up as for ‘Plastic Passion ’ and then up thin crack on right and straight up wall to top.
FA: M.Colyvan, B.Birchall, K.Power, G.Pritchard, A.Legler, 1980
17
Trad 15m
25
New Blue Dress
Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia ’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing ’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”.
Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.
24
Unknown 10m
, 2
26
Fear and Loathing
Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney ’.
Up finger crack with block at half height.
FA: B Birchall, R Curtis, 1976
17
Trad 15m
27
It Pays to Belong
Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing ’ and ‘Nightmare Crack ’.
Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful.
FA: Tim Balla, Larry Dixon, Al Stephens,, 1988
20
Mixed 15m
, 3
28
Nightmare Crack
Start: 2m right of ‘Fear and Loathing ’. What a nightmare!
Fingery crack followed by jam crack and offwidth to top.
FA: Richard Curtis, Jill Kelman, 1976
16
Trad 15m
29
Traverse of terror
Start: Crack R of ‘Nightmare Crack ’.
Preferably use double ropes!.
Up crack till it stops at half height, traverse L with small pro and finish up ‘Nightmare Crack ’.
FA: James Langston Al Stephens, 1998
18
Trad 15m
30
Subterranean Jungle
Start: In the ‘chimney behind ‘Nightmare Crack’ - a hole in the ground. The climb is the crack that is the other side of ‘Nightmare Crack ’.
Chimney and jam using the crack for protection.
FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, 1987
11
Trad 15m
31
Fingers
Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack ’. Large log below start.
Fingery crack that closes near the top.
FA: R Curtis, B Birchall, 1976
18
Trad 8m
32
Blue Murder
Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie ’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers ’).
Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.
FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall,
21
Trad 18m
Route Grade Style Popularity
33
Amphetamine Annie
Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker ’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.
Up crack to top.
FA: Rob Clark, Al Stephens, 1980
18
Trad 18m
34
Anthrax
Originally done with a single point of aid (19M0) at the start of the crack, this was eliminated on the second ascent by A. Legler, M. Colyvan, and E. Sharpe Nov 1980 ]
In Feb 94 Dick Baker aided the direct start.
Start: As for ‘potato Picker ’.
Up to ledge as for ‘Potato Picker ’ then traverse 2m left around the arête to a crack. Follow crack to top.
FA: Austin Legler, Ed Sharpe, 1980
20
Trad 18m
35
Potato Picker
Start: Approx 25m right of ‘Fingers ’ is a short wall leading to a ledge where a crack leads up a corner at the left-hand end of the ledge.
Up the short wall to the ledge and then follow the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge to the top.
FA: B. Birchall, R. Curtis, 1976
16
Trad 15m
36
Chocks Away
Start: 1m right of ‘Potato Picker ’.
Twin cracks, up right hand fist/off width crack to top.
FA: Richard Curtis, Laimonis Kavalieris, 1977
16
Trad 15m
37
Occam's Razor
Start: 4m right of ‘Chocks Away ’.
Up off width which leads to smooth body chimney.
FA: L. Kavalieris, R. Dixon, 1976
15
Trad 15m
38
Earthborn Pilgrim
Start: 2m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’.
Up crack to top.
FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan, 1980
15
Trad 15m
39
Redemption
Start: l0m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ on obvious terrace. Second crack from left on terrace.
Up thin crack to top.
FA: M.Colyvan, J.Lattanzio, A.Legler, E.Sharpe, P.Bayne, 1980
18
Trad 12m
40
Hagar the Horrible
Start: 2m right of ‘Redemption ’ on terraces
Up wide crack to top.
FA: M.Colyvan, J.Lattanzio, 1980
18
Trad 12m
41
Chunder Chimney
Start: 25m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ a large pillar leans back against the main wall.
Start up either of the two cracks for 3m to chimney in behind the pillar.
FA: Rob Dixon, Brian Birchall, Trevor Gynther, 1975
12
Trad 15m
42
Last Straw
Start: First line left of break in cliff, 3m right of ‘Chunder Chimney ’.
Slightly overhanging jam crack.
FA: R.Curtis, L.Kavalieris, 1977
16
Trad 15m
43
Rage
Start: 4m right of ‘Last Straw ’, a short wall in an alcove.
Up wall past 3BR’s to double bolt belay on ledge.
FA: A.Stephens, Gavin Dean, Anita Gordon, 1990
21
Sport 8m
, 3
44
Tristana
Start: First line right of the break in the cliff.
Up enjoyable offwidth by bridging into adjacent crack.
FA: B. Birchall, P. Prior, 1976
15
Trad 15m
45
Viridiana
Start: 2m right of ‘Tristana ’.
Fingery start followed by hand jam crack and off width finish.
FA: B.Birchall, P.Prior, 1976
18
Trad 15m
46
Trix
Start: 3m right of ‘Viridiana ’.
Bridge up twin cracks to top.
FA: M.Colyvan (solo), 1980
5
Trad 15m
47
Rattlesnake
Start: Right of ‘Trix ’ in yellow rotten section of cliff.
Fist to off width crack.
FA: B.Birchall, B.Killip, 1976
18
Trad 15m
48
Steel Magnolias
Start: Right of ‘Rattlesnake ’, the last climb on the Second Breakaway .
Bolt belay at start. Up past 2BR’s and some natural pro to a double bolt anchor on the ledge at top.
FA: M.Colyvan, G.Dean, A.Stephens, 1990
24
Mixed 10m
, 2