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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

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Approach

Access via a shallow gully l00m left (facing out into gorge) of the upper falls car park. Walk beneath the broken cliff for about 50m until the first recorded routes. Climbs described from left to right.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Routes

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Grade Route
1

Start: At the extreme left-hand end of the 2nd breakaway, i.e. left of Touched.

Up arête below 2 roofs. Up crack to roof, through roof to ledge then to top.

FA: L.Dixon and party

4
4 Touched Trad 15m

Some people will do anything to see their name in print!

Start: The scrubby gully at the left hand end of the cliff, 3m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up twin cracks and mank.

FA: M. Colyvan (solo)

5
20 Sex and Intrigue Mixed 8m, 1

Start: The small, 1m roof near the left-hand end of the cliff, 15m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up crack under roof, clip bolt then surmount roof, and continue past a break to top. Belay on trees further back

FA: Gordon Low, Al Stephens, Brian Cork, Toby Waters

6
16 * Little Shop of Horrors Mixed 15m, 2

Start: 2m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up a little slab then up the arete using the left hand edge. Two bolts and some wires provide the protection.

FA: Al Stephens, Larry Dixon

7
15 Hitman Trad 15m

Start: Below the obvious crack up the first good rock you come to.

Up wall to crack and on to top.

FA: M Colyvan, J Lattanzio

8
10 True Confessions Trad 15m

Start: 3m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up fist jam crack to small roof and over to top.

FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio

9
14 Straight Jacket Trad 15m

Start: The flake crack 4m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up the crack.

FA: Ed Sharpe et al

10
15 Mischief Trad 15m

Start: 9m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up crack to stance and on to top.

FA: M.Colyvan, G.Pritchard

11
13 * Snakes and Ladders Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief’.

Up twin cracks to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio, M Colyvan, 1980

12
17 * Modern Electrics Mixed 15m, 4

Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.

FA: L Dixon, A Stephens

13

Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.

Up thin corner crack to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan

14
16 Passing the Buck Trad 10m

Start: About 3m left of ‘Interlude’.

Up crack.

FA: Mike Peck, Greg Croft

15
14 Interlude Trad 10m

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

FA: G. Croft, R. Rose, 1981

16
3 Epileptic Chimney Trad 10m

A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.

Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.

Up chimney.

FA: M. Colyvan (solo), 1980

17
20 * Funky Monkey Mixed 12m, 2

Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder.

Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro.

FA: James Langston, Al Stephens, 1998

18
15 Ivory Stairs Trad 15m

Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Loose in parts.

Up corner to roof, step left and up to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan, 1980

19
20 ** Ilean Mixed 15m, 3

Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’.

Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection.

FA: A. Stephens, L Dixon, 1987

20
17 ** Submission Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.

Up crack to top.

FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio, 1980

21
6 Staircase Chimney Trad 15m

Start: 3m right of ‘Submission’.

Scramble up broken rock and into chimney and on to top.

FA: R. Curtis (solo), 1976

22
14 Mantle as Anything Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up wall to crack then to top.

FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio, 1980

23
12 Plastic Passion Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Mantle As Anything’.

Bridge up over blocks then take the off-width crack on the left to top

FA: M. Colyvan, A. Legler, E. Sharpe, 1980

24
17 Contrivia Trad 15m

Start: As for ‘Plastic Passion.

A bit silly.

Up as for ‘Plastic Passion’ and then up thin crack on right and straight up wall to top.

FA: M.Colyvan, B.Birchall, K.Power, G.Pritchard, A.Legler, 1980

25
24 ** New Blue Dress Mixed 10m, 2

Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.

26
17 ** Fear and Loathing Trad 15m

Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up finger crack with block at half height.

FA: B Birchall, R Curtis, 1976

27
20 ** It Pays to Belong Mixed 15m, 3

Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing’ and ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful.

FA: Tim Balla, Larry Dixon, Al Stephens,, 1988

28
16 Nightmare Crack Trad 15m

Start: 2m right of ‘Fear and Loathing’. What a nightmare!

Fingery crack followed by jam crack and offwidth to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Jill Kelman, 1976

29
18 Traverse of terror Trad 15m

Start: Crack R of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Preferably use double ropes!.

Up crack till it stops at half height, traverse L with small pro and finish up ‘Nightmare Crack’.

FA: James Langston Al Stephens, 1998

30

Start: In the ‘chimney behind ‘Nightmare Crack’ - a hole in the ground. The climb is the crack that is the other side of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Chimney and jam using the crack for protection.

FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, 1987

31
18 * Fingers Trad 8m

Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.

Fingery crack that closes near the top.

FA: R Curtis, B Birchall, 1976

32
21 Blue Murder Trad 18m

Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’).

Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.

FA: M. Colyvan, B. Birchall

33
18 ** Amphetamine Annie Trad 18m

Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.

Up crack to top.

FA: Rob Clark, Al Stephens, 1980

34
20 ** Anthrax Trad 18m

Originally done with a single point of aid (19M0) at the start of the crack, this was eliminated on the second ascent by A. Legler, M. Colyvan, and E. Sharpe Nov 1980 ]

In Feb 94 Dick Baker aided the direct start.

Start: As for ‘potato Picker’.

Up to ledge as for ‘Potato Picker’ then traverse 2m left around the arête to a crack. Follow crack to top.

FA: Austin Legler, Ed Sharpe, 1980

35
16 Potato Picker Trad 15m

Start: Approx 25m right of ‘Fingers’ is a short wall leading to a ledge where a crack leads up a corner at the left-hand end of the ledge.

Up the short wall to the ledge and then follow the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge to the top.

FA: B. Birchall, R. Curtis, 1976

36
16 Chocks Away Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Potato Picker’.

Twin cracks, up right hand fist/off width crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, Laimonis Kavalieris, 1977

37
15 Occam's Razor Trad 15m

Start: 4m right of ‘Chocks Away’.

Up off width which leads to smooth body chimney.

FA: L. Kavalieris, R. Dixon, 1976

38
15 Earthborn Pilgrim Trad 15m

Start: 2m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’.

Up crack to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan, 1980

39
18 *** Redemption Trad 12m

Start: l0m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ on obvious terrace. Second crack from left on terrace.

Up thin crack to top.

FA: M.Colyvan, J.Lattanzio, A.Legler, E.Sharpe, P.Bayne, 1980

40
18 Hagar the Horrible Trad 12m

Start: 2m right of ‘Redemption’ on terraces

Up wide crack to top.

FA: M.Colyvan, J.Lattanzio, 1980

41
12 Chunder Chimney Trad 15m

Start: 25m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ a large pillar leans back against the main wall.

Start up either of the two cracks for 3m to chimney in behind the pillar.

FA: Rob Dixon, Brian Birchall, Trevor Gynther, 1975

42
16 *** Last Straw Trad 15m

Start: First line left of break in cliff, 3m right of ‘Chunder Chimney’.

Slightly overhanging jam crack.

FA: R.Curtis, L.Kavalieris, 1977

43
21 * Rage Sport 8m, 3

Start: 4m right of ‘Last Straw’, a short wall in an alcove.

Up wall past 3BR’s to double bolt belay on ledge.

FA: A.Stephens, Gavin Dean, Anita Gordon, 1990

44
15 Tristana Trad 15m

Start: First line right of the break in the cliff.

Up enjoyable offwidth by bridging into adjacent crack.

FA: B. Birchall, P. Prior, 1976

45
18 Viridiana Trad 15m

Start: 2m right of ‘Tristana’.

Fingery start followed by hand jam crack and off width finish.

FA: B.Birchall, P.Prior, 1976

46
5 Trix Trad 15m

Start: 3m right of ‘Viridiana’.

Bridge up twin cracks to top.

FA: M.Colyvan (solo), 1980

47
18 * Rattlesnake Trad 15m

Start: Right of ‘Trix’ in yellow rotten section of cliff.

Fist to off width crack.

FA: B.Birchall, B.Killip, 1976

48
24 * Steel Magnolias Mixed 10m, 2

Start: Right of ‘Rattlesnake’, the last climb on the Second Breakaway.

Bolt belay at start. Up past 2BR’s and some natural pro to a double bolt anchor on the ledge at top.

FA: M.Colyvan, G.Dean, A.Stephens, 1990