Second Breakaway Mostly trad climbing48 routes in cliff
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Access via a shallow gully l00m left (facing out into gorge) of the upper falls car park. Walk beneath the broken cliff for about 50m until the first recorded routes. Climbs described from left to right.
Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge
Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.
If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.©
Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)
Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.
Up thin corner crack to top.
FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan
A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.
Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.
A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.
FA: G. Croft, R. Rose, 1981
A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.
Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.
FA: M. Colyvan (solo), 1980
Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder.
Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro.
FA: James Langston, Al Stephens, 1998
Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.
Loose in parts.
Up corner to roof, step left and up to top.
FA: J. Lattanzio, M. Colyvan, 1980
Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates).
FA: A. Stephens, L Dixon, 1987
Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.
Up crack to top.
FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio, 1980
Start: 3m right of ‘Submission’.
Scramble up broken rock and into chimney and on to top.
FA: R. Curtis (solo), 1976
Start: 1m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.
Up wall to crack then to top.
FA: M. Colyvan, J. Lattanzio, 1980
Start: 1m right of ‘Mantle As Anything’.
Bridge up over blocks then take the off-width crack on the left to top
FA: M. Colyvan, A. Legler, E. Sharpe, 1980
Start: As for ‘Plastic Passion.
A bit silly.
Up as for ‘Plastic Passion’ and then up thin crack on right and straight up wall to top.
FA: M.Colyvan, B.Birchall, K.Power, G.Pritchard, A.Legler, 1980
Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.
Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates).
FA: B Birchall, R Curtis, 1976
Start: 2m right of ‘Fear and Loathing’. What a nightmare!
Fingery crack followed by jam crack and offwidth to top.
FA: Richard Curtis, Jill Kelman, 1976
Start: In the ‘chimney behind ‘Nightmare Crack’ - a hole in the ground. The climb is the crack that is the other side of ‘Nightmare Crack’.
Chimney and jam using the crack for protection.
FA: L. Dixon, A. Stephens, 1987
Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.
Fingery crack that closes near the top.
FA: R Curtis, B Birchall, 1976