Second Breakaway Mostly trad climbing

Start: At the extreme left-hand end of the 2nd breakaway, i.e. left of Touched.

Up arête below 2 roofs. Up crack to roof, through roof to ledge then to top.

Some people will do anything to see their name in print!

Start: The scrubby gully at the left hand end of the cliff, 3m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up twin cracks and mank.

Start: The small, 1m roof near the left-hand end of the cliff, 15m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up crack under roof, clip bolt then surmount roof, and continue past a break to top. Belay on trees further back

Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder.

Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro.

Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’.

Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates).

Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.

Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates).

Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing’ and ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful.

Start: Crack R of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Preferably use double ropes!.

Up crack till it stops at half height, traverse L with small pro and finish up ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Start: In the ‘chimney behind ‘Nightmare Crack’ - a hole in the ground. The climb is the crack that is the other side of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Chimney and jam using the crack for protection.

Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’).

Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.

Originally done with a single point of aid (19M0) at the start of the crack, this was eliminated on the second ascent by A. Legler, M. Colyvan, and E. Sharpe Nov 1980 ]

In Feb 94 Dick Baker aided the direct start.

Start: As for ‘potato Picker’.

Up to ledge as for ‘Potato Picker’ then traverse 2m left around the arête to a crack. Follow crack to top.

Start: Approx 25m right of ‘Fingers’ is a short wall leading to a ledge where a crack leads up a corner at the left-hand end of the ledge.

Up the short wall to the ledge and then follow the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge to the top.

Start: 25m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ a large pillar leans back against the main wall.

Start up either of the two cracks for 3m to chimney in behind the pillar.

Start: Right of ‘Rattlesnake’, the last climb on the Second Breakaway.

Bolt belay at start. Up past 2BR’s and some natural pro to a double bolt anchor on the ledge at top.