Access via a shallow gully l00m left (facing out into gorge) of the upper falls car park. Walk beneath the broken cliff for about 50m until the first recorded routes. Climbs described from left to right.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

Routes

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16 Old Punks and Young Hippies Trad 15m

Start: At the extreme left-hand end of the 2nd breakaway, i.e. left of Touched.

Up arête below 2 roofs. Up crack to roof, through roof to ledge then to top.

FA: L.Dixon & party, 1989

12 Retired Hippies and Young Punks Unknown

Unknown bolted roof Sport

4 Touched Trad 15m

Some people will do anything to see their name in print!

Start: The scrubby gully at the left hand end of the cliff, 3m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up twin cracks and mank.

FA: M. Colyvan (solo), 1988

20 Sex and Intrigue Mixed 8m, 1

Start: The small, 1m roof near the left-hand end of the cliff, 15m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up crack under roof, clip bolt then surmount roof, and continue past a break to top. Belay on trees further back

FA: Gordon Low, Al Stephens, Brian Cork & Toby Waters, 1994

16 Little Shop of Horrors Mixed 15m, 2

Start: 2m left of ‘Hitman’.

Up a little slab then up the arete using the left hand edge. Two bolts and some wires provide the protection.

FA: Al Stephens & Larry Dixon, 1987

15 Hitman Trad 15m

Start: Below the obvious crack up the first good rock you come to.

Up wall to crack and on to top.

FA: M Colyvan & J Lattanzio, 1980

10 True Confessions Trad 15m

Start: 3m right of ‘Hitman’.

Up fist jam crack to small roof and over to top.

FA: M. Colyvan & J. Lattanzio, 1980

14 Straight Jacket Trad 15m

Start: The flake crack 4m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up the crack.

FA: Ed Sharpe et al, 1982

15 Mischief Trad 15m

Start: 9m right of ‘True Confessions’.

Up crack to stance and on to top.

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Pritchard, 1980

Snakes and Ladders Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief’.

Up twin cracks to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio & M Colyvan, 1980

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Modern Electrics Mixed 15m, 4

Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.

FA: L Dixon & A Stephens, 1987

Whale Oil Beef Hooked Trad 15m

Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.

Up thin corner crack to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio & M. Colyvan, 1980

16 Passing the Buck Trad 10m

Start: About 3m left of ‘Interlude’.

Up crack.

FA: Mike Peck & Greg Croft, 1981

14 Interlude Trad 10m

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

FA: G. Croft & R. Rose, 1981

3 Epileptic Chimney Trad 10m

A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.

Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.

Up chimney.

FA: M. Colyvan (solo), 1980

Funky Monkey Mixed 12m, 2

Start: The arete/wall immediately R of‘Epileptic Chimney’ above boulder.

Step off boulder and up wall trending left to arête at half height. Balance up arête to top, using friend in break and 2 bolts for pro.

FA: James Langston & Al Stephens, 1998

15 Ivory Stairs Trad 15m

Start: 12m right of ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Loose in parts.

Up corner to roof, step left and up to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio & M. Colyvan, 1980

Ilean Mixed 15m, 3

Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’.

Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates).

FA: A. Stephens & L Dixon, 1987

Submission Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.

Up crack to top.

FA: M. Colyvan & J. Lattanzio, 1980

Staircase Chimney Trad 15m

Start: 3m right of ‘Submission’.

Scramble up broken rock and into chimney and on to top.

FA: R. Curtis (solo), 1976

14 Mantle as Anything Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up wall to crack then to top.

FA: M. Colyvan & J. Lattanzio, 1980

12 Plastic Passion Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Mantle As Anything’.

Bridge up over blocks then take the off-width crack on the left to top

FA: M. Colyvan, A. Legler & E. Sharpe, 1980

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17 Contrivia Trad 15m

Start: As for ‘Plastic Passion.

A bit silly.

Up as for ‘Plastic Passion’ and then up thin crack on right and straight up wall to top.

FA: M.Colyvan, B.Birchall, K.Power, G.Pritchard & A.Legler, 1980

New Blue Dress Mixed 10m, 2

Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.

FA: 1995

Fear and Loathing Trad 15m

Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates) but quite adequate anchors can be had where the crack splits the top of the pinnacle.

FA: B Birchall & R Curtis, 1976

It Pays to Belong Mixed 15m, 3

Start: The arête/wall between ‘Fear and Loathing’ and ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Up the arête/wall avoiding the cracks on either side and passing 3 BR’s and a #1 1/2 Friend placement. Some wires also useful.

FA: Tim Balla, Larry Dixon & Al Stephens, 1988

16 Nightmare Crack Trad 15m

Start: 2m right of ‘Fear and Loathing’. What a nightmare!

Fingery crack followed by jam crack and offwidth to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Jill Kelman, 1976

18 Traverse of terror Trad 15m

Start: Crack R of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Preferably use double ropes!.

Up crack till it stops at half height, traverse L with small pro and finish up ‘Nightmare Crack’.

FA: James Langston Al Stephens, 1998

11 Subterranean Jungle Trad 15m

Start: In the ‘chimney behind ‘Nightmare Crack’ - a hole in the ground. The climb is the crack that is the other side of ‘Nightmare Crack’.

Chimney and jam using the crack for protection.

FA: L. Dixon & A. Stephens, 1987

Fingers Trad 8m

Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.

Fingery crack that closes near the top.

FA: R Curtis & B Birchall, 1976

Blue Murder Trad 18m

Start: About 4m left of ‘Amphetamine Annie’ (approx 10-15m right of ‘Fingers’).

Up thin crack, taking care with wire protection down low, then easier wide crack to top.

FA: M. Colyvan & B. Birchall, 1983

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Amphetamine Annie Trad 18m

Start: About 10m down left of ‘Potato Picker’. A small tree is growing out of the crack at half height.

Up crack to top.

FA: Rob Clark & Al Stephens, 1980

Anthrax Trad 18m

Originally done with a single point of aid (19M0) at the start of the crack, this was eliminated on the second ascent by A. Legler, M. Colyvan, and E. Sharpe Nov 1980 ]

In Feb 94 Dick Baker aided the direct start.

Start: As for ‘potato Picker’.

Up to ledge as for ‘Potato Picker’ then traverse 2m left around the arête to a crack. Follow crack to top.

FA: Austin Legler & Ed Sharpe, 1980

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Potato Picker Trad 15m

Start: Due to difficult access from the upstream end of the cliff it is best to approach down one of the chimneys as for Last Straw or by the gully which can be seen in the topo. If you are approaching from one of the climbs upstream then:- Approx 25m right of ‘Fingers’ is a short easy wall leading to a ledge where a crack leads up a corner at the left-hand end of the ledge. The stance at the bottom of the cliff is quite constricted now due to new growth so it is probably advisable to belay on the ledge.

Follow the crack at the left-hand end of the ledge to the top.

FA: B. Birchall & R. Curtis, 1976

16 Chocks Away Trad 15m

Start: 1m right of ‘Potato Picker’.

Twin cracks, up right hand fist/off width crack to top.

FA: Richard Curtis & Laimonis Kavalieris, 1977

15 Occam's Razor Trad 15m

Start: 4m right of ‘Chocks Away’.

Up off width which leads to smooth body chimney.

FA: L. Kavalieris & R. Dixon, 1976

15 Earthborn Pilgrim Trad 15m

Start: 2m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’.

Up crack to top.

FA: J. Lattanzio & M. Colyvan, 1980

Redemption Trad 12m

Start: l0m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ on obvious terrace. Second crack from left on terrace.

Up thin crack to top.

FA: M.Colyvan, J.Lattanzio, A.Legler, E.Sharpe & P.Bayne, 1980

18 Hagar the Horrible Trad 12m

Start: 2m right of ‘Redemption’ on terraces

Up wide crack to top.

FA: M.Colyvan & J.Lattanzio, 1980

12 Chunder Chimney Trad 15m

Start: 25m right of ‘Occam’s Razor’ a large pillar leans back against the main wall.

Start up either of the two cracks for 3m to chimney in behind the pillar.

FA: Rob Dixon, Brian Birchall & Trevor Gynther, 1975

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Last Straw Trad 15m

Start: First line left of break in cliff, 3m right of ‘Chunder Chimney’. Due to undergrowth at the base of the middle section of the cliff, it is advisable to access this climb by descending one of the easy chimneys above.

The slightly overhanging jam crack. (marked)

FA: R.Curtis & L.Kavalieris, 1977