Third Breakaway All trad climbing20 routes in cliff
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Half-way between the two lookouts is a large shallow gully, close to the road. Walk down trending towards the top falls. The cliffs are easily seen. The climbs start past a water soak and manky area. Climbs are described right to left.
Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge
Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.
If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.©
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Start: 5m left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’; obvious finger crack capped by roof.
Originally 17M1 with the lower thin crack aided and the roof free but was freed by R.Curtis and J.Kelman Nov 1976.
Up finger to handjam crack and through roof to top.
FA: Bob Killip, 1974
FFA: Richard Curtis & Jill Kelman, 1976
Start: 10m left of ‘Luce’.
Rightward trending crack to hand jam crack to top.
FA: Dick Curtis & Brian Birchall, 1976
Start: 1m left of ‘Aeroplane Jelly’.
Originally done with an aid rest at the overlap; freed by R.Curtis and M.Colyvan, Sept 1984.
Up fist/offwidth crack to overlap and on to top.
FA: R Curtis & B Birchall (M0), 1976
FFA: R.Curtis & M.Colyvan, 1984
“I’ll cry if I want to”.
Start: About 3m left of ‘Prime Cut’.
Up the crack to top.
FA: M Colyvan, P Colyvan, P Bayne, B Birchall & R Curtis, 1983
Start: 5m left of ‘It’s My Party’.
Hand jams to bulge, around bulge and then on to top.
FA: R Curtis, 1976
Start: 2m left of ‘Anxiety Attack’.
Up off width in corner.
FA: R.Curtis, J.Kelman & J.Grelis, 1976
Start: 2m left of ‘Brown Dirt Cowboy’.
Up finger crack with ferns at half height and slight overhang at top.
FA: Richard.Curtis & Jill Kelman, 1977
Start: To the left of ‘Failsafe’.
Up short fist crack to small gully.
FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981
Start: Left of ‘Recommended Retail Price’.
Up thin crack splitting protruding block then wider crack to top.
FA: R.Clark & B.Birchall, 1981
Start: In a recess 5m left of ‘Mignionette’.
Bridge up twin cracks.
FA: L.Dixon & M.Spence, 1986
Start: 10m left of ‘Failsafe’.
Up the manky chimney until it narrows. Traverse left to fist jam crack and follow this to top.
FA: Rob Dixon & Mike Davies, 1975
Start: 1m left of ‘Brian’s Squeeze’.
Hard overhung off-width to start, then easier jamming to top.
FA: R.Curtis & J.Kelman, 1976
Start: 2m left of ‘Sliding Scale’.
Follow twin cracks initially, then follow the left crack to top.
FA: R.Dixon, B.Birchall & M.Davies, 1975
Start: The arête immediately left of ‘International Womens Year Cracks’.
Extremely technical climbing up a blunt vertical arête.
Up past three fixed hangers to a slight rest and a small cam placement (Alien or TCU). Continue past a fourth fixed hanger to top.
Belay off tree further back.
FA: Gordon Low & Ben Christian, 1996