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Access Issues:© inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

Approach:

Half-way between the two lookouts is a large shallow gully, close to the road. Walk down trending towards the top falls. The cliffs are easily seen. The climbs start past a water soak and manky area. Climbs are described right to left.

Ethic:© inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 Perfect Match

Start:The fourth corner right of ‘Haggis Hole’ (about 7 or 8m).

Follow the crack. Trend right at the top.

FA: M.Colyvan, R.Curtis, 1984

21
Trad 20m
2 Haggis Hole

Start: About 50m from the start of the cliff; a very narrow entrance to a sentry box behind the block.

Up obvious crack line to top of block, Rap off.

FA: Jill Kelman, Al Stephens, 1974

13
Trad 20m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
3 * Frogwyn D'Harder

Start: 5m left of ‘Haggis Hole’.

Up fist to offwidth crack to an awkward exit.

FA: Bob Killip, Rob Dixon, 1975

19
Trad 20m
4 Fully Furnished Dustbin

Start: The line immediately left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’.

Up crack, trending to offwidth, traverse right onto ledge, climb small wall to top.

FA: Tim Balla, Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, 1985

19
Trad 20m
5 Psychotic Debris

Start: The line immediately left of ‘Fully Furnished Dustbin’.

Up crack with an exciting finish

FA: J.Lattanzio, B.Birchall, 1983

20
Trad 20m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
6 ** Luce

Start: 5m left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’; obvious finger crack capped by roof.

Originally 17M1 with the lower thin crack aided and the roof free but was freed by R.Curtis and J.Kelman Nov 1976.

Up finger to handjam crack and through roof to top.

FA: Bob Killip, 1974

21
Trad 20m
7 * Aeroplane Jelly

Start: 10m left of ‘Luce’.

Rightward trending crack to hand jam crack to top.

FA: Dick Curtis, Brian Birchall, 1976

18
Trad 20m
8 * Prime Cut

Start: 1m left of ‘Aeroplane Jelly’.

Originally done with an aid rest at the overlap; freed by R.Curtis and M.Colyvan, Sept 1984.

Up fist/offwidth crack to overlap and on to top.

FA: R Curtis, B Birchall (M0), 1976

FFA: R.Curtis and M.Colyvan, 1984

20
Trad 20m
9 * It's My Party

“I’ll cry if I want to”.

Start: About 3m left of ‘Prime Cut’.

Up the crack to top.

FA: M Colyvan, P Colyvan, P Bayne, B Birchall, R Curtis, 1983

22
Trad 20m
10 * Anxiety Attack

Start: 5m left of ‘It’s My Party’.

Hand jams to bulge, around bulge and then on to top.

FA: R Curtis, 1976

19
Trad 20m
11 Brown Dirt Cowboy

Start: 2m left of ‘Anxiety Attack’.

Up off width in corner.

FA: R.Curtis, J.Kelman, J.Grelis, 1976

16
Trad 20m
12 True Dirt

Start: The line between ‘Brown Dirt Cowboy’ and ‘Failsafe’.

Up crack to ledge then up off width to top.

FA: B.Birchall, J.Lattanzio, 1983

17
Trad 20m
13 Failsafe

Start: 2m left of ‘Brown Dirt Cowboy’.

Up finger crack with ferns at half height and slight overhang at top.

FA: R.Curtis, 1977

18
Trad 20m
14 Recommended Retail Price

Start: To the left of ‘Failsafe’.

Up short fist crack to small gully.

FA: Rob Clark, Brian Birchall, 1981

18
Trad 15m
15 Mignionette

Start: Left of ‘Recommended Retail Price’.

Up thin crack splitting protruding block then wider crack to top.

FA: R.Clark, B.Birchall, 1981

18
Trad 15m
16 One Way Bridge

Start: In a recess 5m left of ‘Mignionette’.

Bridge up twin cracks.

FA: L.Dixon, M.Spence, 1986

10
Trad 10m
17 Brian's Squeeze

Start: 10m left of ‘Failsafe’.

Up the manky chimney until it narrows. Traverse left to fist jam crack and follow this to top.

FA: Rob Dixon, Mike Davies, 1975

12
Trad 20m
18 Sliding Scale

Start: 1m left of ‘Brian’s Squeeze’.

Hard overhung off-width to start, then easier jamming to top.

FA: R.Curtis, J.Kelman, 1976

18
Trad 20m
19 International Women's Year Cracks

Start: 2m left of ‘Sliding Scale’.

Follow twin cracks initially, then follow the left crack to top.

FA: R.Dixon, B.Birchall, M.Davies, 1975

13
Trad 20m
20 The Proverbial

Start: The arête immediately left of ‘International Womens Year Cracks’.

Extremely technical climbing up a blunt vertical arête.

Up past three fixed hangers to a slight rest and a small cam placement (Alien or TCU). Continue past a fourth fixed hanger to top.

Belay off tree further back.

FA: Gordon Low, Ben Christian, 1996

26
Mixed 15m , 4