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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

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Approach

Half-way between the two lookouts is a large shallow gully, close to the road. Walk down trending towards the top falls. The cliffs are easily seen. The climbs start past a water soak and manky area. Climbs are described right to left.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
21 Perfect Match Trad 20m

Start:The fourth corner right of ‘Haggis Hole’ (about 7 or 8m).

Follow the crack. Trend right at the top.

FA: M.Colyvan, R.Curtis, 1984

2
13 Haggis Hole Trad 20m

Start: About 50m from the start of the cliff; a very narrow entrance to a sentry box behind the block.

Up obvious crack line to top of block, Rap off.

FA: Jill Kelman, Al Stephens, 1974

3
19 * Frogwyn D'Harder Trad 20m

Start: 5m left of ‘Haggis Hole’.

Up fist to offwidth crack to an awkward exit.

FA: Bob Killip, Rob Dixon, 1975

4

Start: The line immediately left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’.

Up crack, trending to offwidth, traverse right onto ledge, climb small wall to top.

FA: Tim Balla, Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, 1985

5
20 Psychotic Debris Trad 20m

Start: The line immediately left of ‘Fully Furnished Dustbin’.

Up crack with an exciting finish

FA: J.Lattanzio, B.Birchall, 1983

6
21 ** Luce Trad 20m

Start: 5m left of ‘Frogwyn D’Harder’; obvious finger crack capped by roof.

Originally 17M1 with the lower thin crack aided and the roof free but was freed by R.Curtis and J.Kelman Nov 1976.

Up finger to handjam crack and through roof to top.

FA: Bob Killip, 1974

FFA: Richard Curtis, Jill Kelman, 1976

7
18 * Aeroplane Jelly Trad 20m

Start: 10m left of ‘Luce’.

Rightward trending crack to hand jam crack to top.

FA: Dick Curtis, Brian Birchall, 1976

8
20 * Prime Cut Trad 20m

Start: 1m left of ‘Aeroplane Jelly’.

Originally done with an aid rest at the overlap; freed by R.Curtis and M.Colyvan, Sept 1984.

Up fist/offwidth crack to overlap and on to top.

FA: R Curtis, B Birchall (M0), 1976

FFA: R.Curtis and M.Colyvan, 1984

9
22 * It's My Party Trad 20m

“I’ll cry if I want to”.

Start: About 3m left of ‘Prime Cut’.

Up the crack to top.

FA: M Colyvan, P Colyvan, P Bayne, B Birchall, R Curtis, 1983

10
19 * Anxiety Attack Trad 20m

Start: 5m left of ‘It’s My Party’.

Hand jams to bulge, around bulge and then on to top.

FA: R Curtis, 1976

11
16 Brown Dirt Cowboy Trad 20m

Start: 2m left of ‘Anxiety Attack’.

Up off width in corner.

FA: R.Curtis, J.Kelman, J.Grelis, 1976

12
17 True Dirt Trad 20m

Start: The line between ‘Brown Dirt Cowboy’ and ‘Failsafe’.

Up crack to ledge then up off width to top.

FA: B.Birchall, J.Lattanzio, 1983

13
18 Failsafe Trad 20m

Start: 2m left of ‘Brown Dirt Cowboy’.

Up finger crack with ferns at half height and slight overhang at top.

FA: Richard.Curtis, Jill Kelman, 1977

14

Start: To the left of ‘Failsafe’.

Up short fist crack to small gully.

FA: Rob Clark, Brian Birchall, 1981

15
18 Mignionette Trad 15m

Start: Left of ‘Recommended Retail Price’.

Up thin crack splitting protruding block then wider crack to top.

FA: R.Clark, B.Birchall, 1981

16
10 One Way Bridge Trad 10m

Start: In a recess 5m left of ‘Mignionette’.

Bridge up twin cracks.

FA: L.Dixon, M.Spence, 1986

17
12 Brian's Squeeze Trad 20m

Start: 10m left of ‘Failsafe’.

Up the manky chimney until it narrows. Traverse left to fist jam crack and follow this to top.

FA: Rob Dixon, Mike Davies, 1975

18
18 Sliding Scale Trad 20m

Start: 1m left of ‘Brian’s Squeeze’.

Hard overhung off-width to start, then easier jamming to top.

FA: R.Curtis, J.Kelman, 1976

19

Start: 2m left of ‘Sliding Scale’.

Follow twin cracks initially, then follow the left crack to top.

FA: R.Dixon, B.Birchall, M.Davies, 1975

20
26 The Proverbial Mixed 15m, 4

Start: The arête immediately left of ‘International Womens Year Cracks’.

Extremely technical climbing up a blunt vertical arête.

Up past three fixed hangers to a slight rest and a small cam placement (Alien or TCU). Continue past a fourth fixed hanger to top.

Belay off tree further back.

FA: Gordon Low, Ben Christian, 1996