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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park



From the second car park, take the path down to the valley lookout then follow the cliff top left over the creek, past a barbwire fence and along until you find a large break in the cliffs. The Fourth Breakaway is down then back towards the lookout. Climbs are from right to left.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.



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The first buttress you come to after the descending in from the western downstream descent gully.

Start: A crack at the right hand end of a smaller buttress, before you get to the main part of the cliff.

Up fist to offwidth crack and through slight roof to top.

FA: R Dixon & R Bambach, 1976

Start: 4m left of ‘Pride of Errand’.

Good jams to slightly overhung top section.

FA: Richard Curtis & L. Kavalieris, 1977

Start: At the far right on the main part of the breakaway. 2m right of ‘Twist’.

Up crack, around flake, then up to top.

FA: John Lattanzio & Greg Pritchard, 1980

Start: The first good-looking short hand-jam crack.

Follow crack to top. Tree belay, rap off.

FA: B.Birchall & P.Prior, 1976

Start: 2m left of ‘Twist’.

Tricky start.

Finger crack to ledge. Up hand jam crack to slightly overhanging blocks to tree, as for Twist.

FA: B Birchall & P Prior, 1976

Thin start protected by a tiny cam just where you want your hand. Up face through 3 bolts avoiding the easier cracks to both sides. Finish with gear as for 'Fox Trot'.

Start: 2m left of ‘Fox Trot’.

Bridge up crack and detached block, up finger crack and slightly overhanging off width to top.

FA: B.Birchall & R.McClymont, 1979

Start: At base of isolated column, 1m left of ‘Sly’.

Up space between column and main face to top of column, exit on right.

FA: B.Birchall & Richard Curtis, 1977

Start: At base of thin crack 1m right of ‘Fidget’.

Bridge on pillar to right and join crack higher up.

FA: Brian Birchall, Rob Clark & Greg Croft, 1981

Start: 10m left of ‘Sly’, a good looking fist jam crack.

Up crack to top.

FA: B Birchall & John Lattanzio, 1979

Start: 3m left of ‘Fidget’.

Originally done with an aid rest at 3/4 height, this was eliminated on the second ascent by M. Colyvan, Mar 1981.

Up off width to top.

FA: Mark Colyvan & John Lattanzio, 1980

FFA: Mark Colyvan, 1981

Start: 5m left of ‘Resurrection Shuffle

Up off width to top.

FA: B.Birchall & R.McClymont, 1979

Start: 4m left of ‘Speakeasy’.

Up off width in corner, bridging moves near top.

FA: Laimonis Kavalieris & Rod Bambach, 1976

Start: As for ‘Liquid Laughter’.

Up as for ‘Liquid Laughter’ but avoid offwidth by traversing right into chimney of ‘Puke’. Then to top as for ‘Puke’.

FA: Phil Prior & Rob Dixon, 1976

Start: 2m left of ‘Puke’.

Up crack opening to offwidth, followed by flake to ledge. Cruise (with some panic) through some mank and chossy rock, slightly to the right of flake, finish on ledge, to top. Heave a sigh of relief.

FA: Brian Birchall, Greg Pritchard & John Lattanzio, 1979

Start: 3m left of Proteus.

Originally done with two aid rests, these were eliminated by M.Colyvan and E.Sharpe, Mar 81.

Up the finger crack to just before chossy overhang, step up then out left around bulge and on to top.

FA: Paul Bayne, Brian Birchall, Mark Colyvan (M0); M Colyvan & John Lattanzio, 1980

FFA: M.Colyvan & E.Sharpe, 1981

Start: 3m left of ‘Anyone for Tennis’.

Up twin cracks then carefully right to horrendous exit via a small tree.

Start: 2m left of ‘Double Trouble’.

Up thin hand crack and wide groove above.

FA: Richard Curtis, Jill Kelman, Brian Birchall & P. Prior, 1976

Start: The only worthwhile crack between ‘Knuckleduster’ and ‘Backdoor Man’.

Follow the crack.

FA: Greg Croft & Ed Sharpe, 1981

Start: Directly right of ‘Backdoor Man’.

Originally done with an aid rest which was freed by M. Colyvan and G. Croft, July 8

Bridge and jam up through roof to top.

FA: G.Croft, B.Birchall & E.Sharpe, 1981

FFA: M. Colyvan & G. Croft, 1981

Start: 10m left of ‘Knuckleduster’.

Throws off many a leader.

Good jams to a small roof, followed by layaways to top.

FA: Richard Curtis, 1977

Start: 1m left of ‘Backdoor Man’.

An impressive 1.5m roof, an Ebor classic.

Up to roof, around left-hand side into jam crack. Follow this to ledge and then on to top.

FA: bobkillip, 1976

Start: 3m left of ‘Rooflet’.

One of the more interesting Ebor routes.

Up knuckle/hand crack to wall moves at top.

FA: Tony Dignan & Mark Colyvan, 1980

Start: Possibly 3m left of ‘Brown Buffalo’.

Straightforward jams to top.

FA: R.Curtis & L.Kavalieris, 1977

Start: About 15m left and around the corner from ‘Brown Buffalo’ and about 10m right of the waterfall.

Thin jams to roof, then good jams to difficult exit.

FA: Richard Curtis, 1977

If you walk to the tourist 'Valley lookout', this section is directly under you and to your right looking out. It's easier to access this section from the upstream side than downstream end like the other sections.

Start: On the other side of the waterfall left of ‘Sleight of Hand’, a gradually widening finger crack.

Follow crack to top.

FA: J.Lattanzio, G.Croft & B.Birchall, 1982

Start: Next line left of ‘Domination Quickstep’.

Originally done with a single aid rest but was freed on its second ascent by B.Birchall and E.Sharpe, Feb 1982.

Up fine crack to horizontal break; difficult step into crack on left, follow this to top.

FFA: B.Birchall & E.Sharpe, 1982

FA: B Birchall & E Sharpe, 1982

Start: Next line left of ‘Transactional Burnout’.

Layback and jam to top.

FA: G.Croft & E.Sharpe, 1981

Start: Left of ‘Part of the Scenery’.

Bridge and jam to top.

FA: E.Sharpe & G.Croft, 1981

Start: Left of ‘Nasal Drip’.

Bridge and jam to top.

FA: Al Stephens & Rob Clark, 1981

Start: left of ‘Jungle Gym’.

Originally done with an aid rest freed by E. Sharpe and B. Birchall June 1981.

Hand jam crack to top.

FA: R Clark & A Stephens, 1981

FFA: E. Sharpe & Brian Birchall, 1981

Start: The short off-width at the extreme left of the cliff.

Up off width.

FA: Rob Dixon & Rod Bambach, 1976


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