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Dowload our Android app, then when you are standing next to the cliff, navigate to the cliff page in the app and click on the cross hairs at the top of the screen. The app will work out your geolocation and send it to the server. Voila you have now earnt Karma points and helped build a better resource.

Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

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Approach

From the second car park, take the path down to the valley lookout then follow the cliff top left over the creek, past a barbwire fence and along until you find a large break in the cliffs. The Fourth Breakaway is down then back towards the lookout. Climbs are from right to left.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
16 * Pride of Errand Trad 10m

Start: A crack at the right hand end of a smaller buttress, before you get to the main part of the cliff.

Up fist to offwidth crack and through slight roof to top.

FA: R Dixon, R Bambach, 1976

2
18 Problem Child Trad 10m

Start: 4m left of ‘Pride of Errand’.

Good jams to slightly overhung top section.

FA: R.Curtis, L.Kavalieris, 1977

3
10 Urban Cowshit Trad 10m

Start: At the far right on the main part of the breakaway. 2m right of ‘Twist’.

Up crack, around flake, then up to top.

FA: John Lattanzio, Greg Pritchard, 1980

4
16 ** Twist Trad 15m

Start: The first good-looking short hand-jam crack.

Follow crack to top. Tree belay, rap off.

FA: B.Birchall, P.Prior, 1976

5
17 * Fox Trot Trad 12m

Start: 2m left of ‘Twist’.

Tricky start.

Finger crack to ledge. Up hand jam crack to slightly overhanging blocks to tree, as for Twist.

FA: B Birchall, P Prior, 1976

6
17 Sly Trad 12m

Start: 2m left of ‘Fox Trot’.

Bridge up crack and detached block, up finger crack and slightly overhanging off width to top.

FA: B.Birchall, R.McClymont, 1979

7
16 Ball Breaker Trad 15m

Start: At base of isolated column, 1m left of ‘Sly’.

Up space between column and main face to top of column, exit on right.

FA: B.Birchall, R.Curtis, 1977

8
16 Crooked Vision Trad 15m

Start: At base of thin crack 1m right of ‘Fidget’.

Bridge on pillar to right and join crack higher up.

FA: Brian Birchall, Rob Clark, Greg Croft, 1981

9
17 ** Fidget Trad 15m

Start: 10m left of ‘Sly’, a good looking fist jam crack.

Up crack to top.

FA: B Birchall, J Lattanzio, 1979

10

Start: 3m left of ‘Fidget’.

Originally done with an aid rest at 3/4 height, this was eliminated on the second ascent by M. Colyvan, Mar 1981.

Up off width to top.

FA: M Colyvan, J Lattanzio (M0), 1980

FFA: M. Colyvan, 1981

11
14 Speakeasy Trad 15m

Start: 5m left of ‘Resurrection Shuffle

Up off width to top.

FA: B.Birchall, R.McClymont, 1979

12
14 Puke Trad 15m

Start: 4m left of ‘Speakeasy’.

Up off width in corner, bridging moves near top.

FA: Laimonis Kavalieris, Rod Bambach, 1976

13
16 Liquid Laughter Trad 15m

Start: 2m left of ‘Puke’.

Up crack opening to offwidth, followed by flake to ledge. Cruise (with some panic) through some mank and chossy rock, slightly to the right of flake, finish on ledge, to top. Heave a sigh of relief.

FA: Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, Greg Pritchard, 1979

14
13 Proteus Trad 15m

Start: As for ‘Liquid Laughter’.

Up as for ‘Liquid Laughter’ but avoid offwidth by traversing right into chimney of ‘Puke’. Then to top as for ‘Puke’.

FA: Phil Prior, Rob Dixon, 1976

15
20 ** Anyone for Tennis Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of Proteus.

Originally done with two aid rests, these were eliminated by M.Colyvan and E.Sharpe, Mar 81.

Up the finger crack to just before chossy overhang, step up then out left around bulge and on to top.

FA: Paul Bayne, Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, Mark Colyvan (M0); M Colyvan and E Sharpe (FFA), 1980

FFA: M.Colyvan and E.Sharpe, 1981

16
16 Double Trouble Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of ‘Anyone for Tennis’.

Up twin cracks then carefully right to horrendous exit via a small tree.

FA: Jill Kelman, Richard Curtis, 1976

17
18 ** Knuckleduster Trad 15m

Start: 2m left of ‘Double Trouble’.

Up thin hand crack and wide groove above.

FA: R Curtis, J Kelman, B Birchall, P Prior, 1976

18
17 Safe Enough Trad 15m

Start: The only worthwhile crack between ‘Knuckleduster’ and ‘Backdoor Man’.

Follow the crack.

FA: Greg Croft, Ed Sharpe, 1981

19
19 Maniac Trad 15m

Start: Directly right of ‘Backdoor Man’.

Originally done with an aid rest which was freed by M. Colyvan and G. Croft, July 8

Bridge and jam up through roof to top.

FFA: M. Colyvan and G. Croft

FA: G.Croft, B.Birchall, E.Sharpe, 1981

20
19 ** Backdoor Man Trad 15m

Start: 10m left of ‘Knuckleduster’.

Throws off many a leader.

Good jams to a small roof, followed by layaways to top.

FA: R Curtis, 1977

21
19 ** Rooflet Trad 15m

Start: 1m left of ‘Backdoor Man’.

An impressive 1.5m roof, an Ebor classic.

Up to roof, around left-hand side into jam crack. Follow this to ledge and then on to top.

FA: Bob Killip, 1976

22
20 ** Brown Buffalo Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of ‘Rooflet’.

One of the more interesting Ebor routes.

Up knuckle/hand crack to wall moves at top.

FA: Tony Dignan, Mark Colyvan, 1980

23
15 Trucking On Trad 15m

Start: Possibly 3m left of ‘Brown Buffalo’.

Straightforward jams to top.

FA: R.Curtis, L.Kavalieris, 1977

24
19 ** Sleight of Hand Trad 15m

Start: About 15m left and around the corner from ‘Brown Buffalo’ and about 10m right of the waterfall.

Thin jams to roof, then good jams to difficult exit.

FA: R Curtis, 1977

25

Start: On the other side of the waterfall left of ‘Sleight of Hand’, a gradually widening finger crack.

Follow crack to top.

FA: J.Lattanzio, G.Croft, B.Birchall, 1982

26

Start: Next line left of ‘Domination Quickstep’.

Originally done with a single aid rest but was freed on its second ascent by B.Birchall and E.Sharpe, Feb 1982.

Up fine crack to horizontal break; difficult step into crack on left, follow this to top.

FFA: B.Birchall, E.Sharpe, 1982

FA: B Birchall, E Sharpe, 1982

27

Start: Next line left of ‘Transactional Burnout’.

Layback and jam to top.

FA: G.Croft, E.Sharpe, 1981

28
17 Nasal Drip Trad 10m

Start: Left of ‘Part of the Scenery’.

Bridge and jam to top.

FA: E.Sharpe, G.Croft, 1981

29
15 Jungle Gym Trad 10m

Start: Left of ‘Nasal Drip’.

Bridge and jam to top.

FA: Al Stephens, Rob Clark, 1981

30
18 * Mongrel Trad 10m

Start: left of ‘Jungle Gym’.

Originally done with an aid rest freed by E. Sharpe and B. Birchall June 1981.

Hand jam crack to top.

FA: R Clark, A Stephens, 1981

FFA: E. Sharpe and B. Birchall, 1981

31
13 Maggot Trad 10m

Start: The short off-width at the extreme left of the cliff.

Up off width.

FA: Rob Dixon, Rod Bambach, 1976