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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park



Below the left-hand end of the fourth breakaway is another little buttress, this is Solid Gold Buttress. It is reached by walking down, from the left-hand end of the fourth breakaway near ‘Mongrel’. Climbs are described left to right.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.



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Grade Route

Start: Clean crack some metres to the left of ‘Solid Gold’.

Up crack with awkward exit.

FA: Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio & Tim Balla, 1983

Start: The most obvious looking line (thin crack) in the middle of the buttress.

An aid rest about two thirds the way up was eliminated during the second ascent by M.Colyvan and Al Stephens, Jan 1983.

Up thin crack and wall above.

FFA: Mark Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1983

FA: Al Stephens & Brian Birchall (M0), 1983

Start: 4m right of Solid Gold’.

Follow the crack to the top.

FA: John Lattanzio, Tim Balla & Brian Birchall, 1983


Check out what is happening in Solid Gold Buttress.