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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

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Approach

This very short little cliff lies between the Fourth Breakaway and the Fifth Breakaway, and a little higher up in the gorge than those two cliffs. Climbs are described left to right.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
14 Toedance Trad 10m

Start: A short jam crack at the far left hand end of Dead Heroes Buttress.

Up crack, then move right to finish up as for ‘Long Haired Lout’.

FA: Ed Sharpe, Al Stephens, Greg Pritchard, 1981

2
17 Long Haired Lout Trad 10m

Start: 1m right of ‘Toedance’.

Up the thin finger crack.

FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe, 1981

3
12 Short and Curly Trad 10m

Start: 1m right of ‘Long Haired Lout’.

Bridge and jam up crack.

FA: E.Sharpe, A.Stephens, 1981

4

Start: The obvious off-width crack 2m right of ‘Long Haired Lout’.

Up crack.

FA: A Stephens, 1981

5
14 White on White Trad 10m

Start: 1m right of ‘Malcolm Fraser’s Rearend’.

Up crack using right crack at top.

FA: G.Pritchard, A.Stephens, E.Sharpe, 1981

6
15 5% for Nothing Trad 10m

Start: 2m right of ‘White on White’.

Up flared varied crack in corner.

FA: E.Sharpe, G.Pritchard, 1981

7

Start: 1m right of ‘5% For Nothing’.

Up crack, move right onto large block, up layaways to top.

FA: E.Sharpe, G.Pritchard, 1981

8
17 The Comedien Trad 10m

Start: 2m right of ‘Delusions for a Dragon Slayer’.

Up crack.

FA: E.Sharpe, G.Pritchard, 1981

9

Start: 1m right of ‘The Comedian’.

Up crack to tree.

FA: E.Sharpe, G.Pritchard, M.Colyvan, G.Croft, 1981

10
17 * Daroof Trad 10m

Start: On a little buttress further right from the other climbs, beneath an obvious roof near a large dead tree.

Up da wall and around da roof.

FA: A Stephens, E Sharpe, G Pritchard, 1981