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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park



Has the same access as the fourth breakaway, except the cliffs are on the other side of the descent gully, past Dead Heroes Buttress (ie further away from the lookout). Climbs are described left to right.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.



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Grade Route

Around left and uphill from Inspiration Point. The obvious rightward leaning crack. A good one for the kids.

  1. Easily up the crack.

FA: Richard Curtis, Vaughan Curtis & John Oddie, 1995

Start: The first line from the left-hand end of the cliff.

Up fine, steep finger crack to roof. Finish as for ‘Capillary Direct’.

FA: Joe Friend & Richard Curtis, 1977

Start: 1m right of ‘Inspiration Point’. As for ‘Capillary’.

As for ‘Capillary’ but instead of moving right at the top of the crack, traverse left into crack which leads up over roof.

Start: 1m right of ‘Inspiration Point’.

Up hand jam crack with fingery diagonal, move right onto small stance. Then a series of committing moves over bulge to top.

FA: Brian Birchall & Laimonis Kavalieris, 1976

Start: 2m right of ‘Capillary’.

Hand jam your way through the double roofs, then up slightly overhanging and loose wall to top (as for ‘Capillary’).

FA: Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1976

Start: 5m right of ‘Jugular’.

Up short off width, small roof for interest, and then a choice of two cracks to finish.

FA: Laimonis Kavalieris & Brian Birchall, 1976


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