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Access issues inherited from Ebor Gorge

National Park

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Approach

This cliff is located on the other side of the gorge from all the previously mentioned cliffs. Park at the first car park (as for access to first breakaway), then walk around to the top of the first falls, cross the river and walk up onto the paddock, then along the top for about 50m. Step over the fence and scramble down past an old bottle dump. The cliff is just around the next corner. It is generally 6-l0m in height. Climbs are described from right to left.

Ethic inherited from Ebor Gorge

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

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Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
18 * Damp Monkeys Trad 10m

Start: The first crack line you come to.

Up wall to ledge, bridge right off tree to get into crack. Follow this to top.

FA: Larry Dixon, Mark Spence, 1986

2
16 Throwdown Trad 10m

Start: left of ‘Damp Monkeys’.

Bridge up to tree/bush, step left onto block, continue as for Broken Glass.

FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens, M.Spence, 1987

3
11 Broken Glass Trad 10m

Start: Left of ‘Throwdown’.

Thin crack to block, then bridging and jamming.

FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens, 1987

4
18 Bottle Shop Trad 10m

Start: Left of broken Glass’.

Up the curving, leaning crack

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, 1987

5
16 Dynamicus Trad 10m

Start: Left of ‘Bottle Shop’.

Up crack, reach right into another crack. Bridging and jamming.

FA: L.Dixon, M.Spence, 1986

6
17 Stubby Trad 10m

Start: Twin cracks left of Dynamicus.

Up the twin cracks.

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, 1987

7
17 On the Piss Trad 10m

Start: Left of ‘Stubby’.

Up the curving crack with slight bulge.

FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens, M.Spence, 1987

8
14 Seedy Trad 10m

Start: Left of ‘On the Piss’.

Onto block then up twin cracks.

FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens, 1987

9
18 * Hangover Trad 10m

Start: Left of ‘Seedy’.

Up twin cracks, difficult at top.

FA: A Stephens, L Dixon, M Spence, 1987

10
19 Dirty Deeds Trad 10m

Start: 1m left of Hangover.

Up hand/fist crack.

FA: A.Stephens, L.Dixon, 1988

11
14 Heinekin Trad 10m

Start: On the bushy ledge.

Bridge up the alcove.

FA: L.Dixon, A.Stephens, 1987