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Pub Buttress Guide

  • Grades: AU

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Richard Curtis

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © University of New England Outdoor Club (Creative Commons - Attribution Non-Commercial Share Alike)

Table of contents

1. Pub Buttress 11 routes in Cliff

Summary:
All Trad climbing

Long/Lat: 152.340593, -30.399278

Access Issues

National Park

© inherited from Ebor Gorge

Approach

This cliff is located on the other side of the gorge from all the previously mentioned cliffs. Park at the first car park (as for access to first breakaway), then walk around to the top of the first falls, cross the river and walk up onto the paddock, then along the top for about 50m. Step over the fence and scramble down past an old bottle dump. The cliff is just around the next corner. It is generally 6-l0m in height. Climbs are described from right to left.

Ethic

Basically, the climbers of Armidale are a prettylaid back, free thinking group and as long as you don’t go out of your way to put people’s noses out of joint you’ll be amazed at how helpful they can be. The quickest way to piss people off is by ripping off projects. There are a few devoted locals making an effort and putting up quality new climbs. A lot of time, hard work and even money goes into their endeavours (cracks can be projects too) and there is too much unclimbed rock around to justify destroying someone else’s motivation. Any routes marked as such or not in the guide should be left alone. The simple courtesy of asking first may save you from being stripped naked and being staked out for the crows to pick your eyes out.

If putting up new routes is your thing then please feel free. However bolting in National Parks is actually illegal and as Ebor is mostly crack climbs there is rarely a need for bolts.

© inherited from Ebor Gorge
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Damp Monkeys

Start: The first crack line you come to.

Up wall to ledge, bridge right off tree to get into crack. Follow this to top.

18 Trad 10m
2 Throwdown

Start: left of ‘Damp Monkeys’.

Bridge up to tree/bush, step left onto block, continue as for Broken Glass.

16 Trad 10m
3 Broken Glass

Start: Left of ‘Throwdown’.

Thin crack to block, then bridging and jamming.

11 Trad 10m
4 Bottle Shop

Start: Left of broken Glass’.

Up the curving, leaning crack

18 Trad 10m
5 Dynamicus

Start: Left of ‘Bottle Shop’.

Up crack, reach right into another crack. Bridging and jamming.

16 Trad 10m
6 Stubby

Start: Twin cracks left of Dynamicus.

Up the twin cracks.

17 Trad 10m
7 On the Piss

Start: Left of ‘Stubby’.

Up the curving crack with slight bulge.

17 Trad 10m
8 Seedy

Start: Left of ‘On the Piss’.

Onto block then up twin cracks.

14 Trad 10m
9 Hangover

Start: Left of ‘Seedy’.

Up twin cracks, difficult at top.

18 Trad 10m
10 Dirty Deeds

Start: 1m left of Hangover.

Up hand/fist crack.

19 Trad 10m
11 Heinekin

Start: On the bushy ledge.

Bridge up the alcove.

14 Trad 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
11 Broken Glass Trad 10m
14 Heinekin Trad 10m
Seedy Trad 10m
16 Dynamicus Trad 10m
Throwdown Trad 10m
17 On the Piss Trad 10m
Stubby Trad 10m
18 Bottle Shop Trad 10m
Damp Monkeys Trad 10m
Hangover Trad 10m
19 Dirty Deeds Trad 10m