Crag Guide for Elderslie Bouldering
A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Tommy Krauss
Campbell Gome
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Elderslie Bouldering
36 in Crag
-
1.1.
The Gully 20 in Area
- 1.1.1. Crystal 3 in Area
- 1.1.2. Third Turd Boulder 0 in Boulder
- 1.1.3. Paydirt 5 in Area
- 1.1.4. Butterflies 4 in Area
- 1.1.5. Centipede Boulder 0 in Boulder
- 1.1.6. Scorpion 3 in Area
- 1.1.7. Elderslie Arch 5 in Area
-
1.2.
The Terrace 16 in Area
- 1.2.1. Tommy's Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.2.2. Terrace Boulder 6 in Boulder
- 1.2.3. Winter is Coming Area 4 in Boulder
- 1.3. Roadside Boulders 0 in Area
-
1.4.
The Block Area 0 in Area
- 1.4.1. The Block Boulder 0 in Unknown
- 1.4.2. Yellow Boulder 0 in Unknown
- 1.4.3. Others 0 in Unknown
-
1.1.
The Gully 20 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Elderslie Bouldering 36 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.092770, -42.570823
- Description:
-
The bouldering at Elderslie is on sandstone boulders and is quite good but has always had access issues.
- Approach:
-
To get there drive up the Midlands Highway from Hobart towards Brighton. Take the left hand road just before Brighton (Elderslie Road). Follow this road for 15 minutes or so before reaching Elderslie (not much more than a few farms and a golf club). Take a right a few kilometres out of Elderslie (Clifton Vale Road) and follow this dirt road for about 5 kilometres before reaching a Y intersection; take the right road (to Dysart), you will go up a rise and then the road will go down again, at the bottom of this hill on the left is the fire trail about 1 kilometre from the intersection. (Note: This first area is now mostly inaccessible, unless you can convince the new landowners otherwise!). You walk up here for 100m or so and then to your left is Slug Rock (amongst the trees) and the Ant Rocks are about 100m uphill from here. Drive on another 200m or so and on the right is the pullover next to the creek, opposite the obvious Roadside boulders. Park here to access the Block (access at your own risk!) and Forbidden Forest areas. For the Gully area, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left.
- Ethic:
-
Most of the bouldering in this area is on relatively soft sandstone. This can, in case of recent rain or general dampness, lead to easy breaking of holds. Hence when climbing in this area on a wet or damp day, be careful not to break any important holds.
- History:
-
It was originally discovered by Mike Berry and developed by Stu Bowling & friends in early 2001. The area got some more life in 2006 with the discovery of the Gully by Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries, and then later the Arch and the Terrace.
1.1. The Gully 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 147.093315, -42.569735
- Description:
-
The Gully is a new area that is under development. Unlike most of Elderslie, the boulders are on Crown land, so access shouldn't be as much of an issue. There is a large amount of wildlife in the gully, including snakes and wallabies, so dogs probably aren't a good idea.
- Approach:
-
To get there, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left. Go through the gate on the opposite side of the road, and cross the river at the ford (usually OK except after rain). Head across the paddock to the entrance to the valley. Once through the gate, head left up the hill to where it flattens out. Follow the fairly flat and clear area up the valley, until you find the first boulder (Crystal Boulder). Total walking time about 10 minutes.
1.1.1. Crystal 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Left arete | V0 | ||||
| 2 | The Crystal | V5 | ||||
| 3 | V1 | V1 | ||||
1.1.2. Third Turd Boulder 0 routes in Boulder
- Description:
-
There are a couple decent slab problems on this boulder.
- Approach:
-
This is the next boulder along from the Crystal Boulder.
1.1.3. Paydirt 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Left arete | V0 | ||||
| 2 | Mantle | V1 | ||||
| 3 | V1 | V1 | ||||
| 4 | Paydirt | V3 | ||||
| 5 | Back arete | V2 | ||||
1.1.4. Butterflies 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.094435, -42.569920
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Butterflies | V4 | ||||
| 2 | V3 | V3 |
topher 1 years ago
| |||
| 3 | If 6 Was 9 | V6 |
topher 1 years ago
| |||
| 4 |
Project
Right arete | V? | ||||
1.1.5. Centipede Boulder 0 routes in Boulder
- Description:
-
This is the next boulder across the hill from Butterflies Boulder, and is visible from the back of Butterflies.
1.1.6. Scorpion 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
- All Boulder
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | LH mantle | V2 | ||||
| 2 | Undercling | V2 | ||||
| 3 | Scorpion | V3 | ||||
1.1.7. Elderslie Arch 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Boulder
Long/Lat: 147.095451, -42.570442
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Full traverse L to R | V5 |
topher 1 years ago
| |||
| 2 | The Fire of Life | V3 | ||||
| 3 | The Rainbow Connection | V2 | ||||
| 4 | Smooth Latin Groove | V5 | ||||
| 5 | Let That Boy Boogie Woogie | V3 | ||||
1.2. The Terrace 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Long/Lat: 147.095911, -42.566730
- Description:
-
The Terrace is a good little north facing area high on the hillside overlooking the next valley north of The Gully.
- Approach:
-
To get there park and cross the paddock as for the Gully. Instead of heading up the valley, head left and up the hill to find a gap in the small cliffs. Head straight up the hill until you can see into the next valley. Then turn right and walk along the ridge (east) until you find the boulders. The boulders are described roughly west to east, as you come to them.
1.2.1. Tommy's Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
- All Boulder
- Description:
-
A steep boulder with some good problems.
- Approach:
-
15 mins
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
 V5 Sit
Sit start at the right side of the boulder then move left all the way along the lip. FA: T. Krauss, | V5 |
Tommy Krauss 10 months ago
| |||
| 2 |
V5 Stand
Up from the big sloper and then traverse left along the lip. FA: T.Krauss, | V5 |
Tommy Krauss 10 months ago
| |||
| 3 |
Project
Sit Start to V5 Stand | V? | ||||
| 4 |
V0 Sit
This problem is on the face on the back wall just to the right of a roof. Right side of face. | V0 | ||||
| 5 |
V0 Stand
This problem is on the face on the back wall just to the right of a roof. Left side of face. | V0 | ||||
| 6 |
Project 2
Start on Sloper in the middle of the face and head left via crimp rail to top. | V? | ||||
1.2.2. Terrace Boulder 6 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
- All Boulder
- Description:
-
About 10 metres north east of Tommy's Boulder.
- Approach:
-
15 mins
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Left Side
Left side of E face. | V1 | ||||
| 2 |
Arete
Nice arete | V1 | ||||
| 3 |
V2
Start on right side of arete, up to ramp then move right and up. | V2 | ||||
| 4 |
Project
Sit start on big holds and up thin face. | V? | ||||
| 5 |
V3
Start on big diagonal hold just left of arete | V3 | ||||
| 6 |
V1
Silly little problem just right of arete | V1 | ||||
1.2.3. Winter is Coming Area 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
- All Boulder
- Description:
-
These are the problems around the distinctive bulge of Winter is Coming.
- Approach:
-
17 mins
| Route | Grade | Style | Popularity | Selected ascents | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Winter is Coming
Great holds out through the bulge. | V4 | ||||
| 2 |
V3
The little prow to the right of Winter is Coming. | V3 | ||||
| 3 |
V2
Jugs around to the right. | V2 | ||||
| 4 |
V1
Nice stand start on chicken heads. | V1 | ||||
1.3. Roadside Boulders 0 routes in Area
- Description:
-
There are 4 or so obvious freestanding boulders right by the parking area. These have never been developed properly. There are probably about 10 problems to be done here, but they need some cleaning.
- Approach:
-
They are literally 10m from the road, and there is no fence, so access should not be an issue.
1.4. The Block Area 0 routes in Area
- Description:
-
Many new problems still await ascents in this area though rock quality might not be as good as some of the more established problems.
- Approach:
-
Park at the pullover on the right side of the road just before the roadside boulders and walk along the road for about 50m, there is a bit of a track up to the left. Walk to the top of this first small hill to reach the Block via other boulders including the Voltage boulder
1.4.1. The Block Boulder 0 routes in Unknown
- Description:
-
Cubical Boulder with 9 routes on it
1.4.2. Yellow Boulder 0 routes in Unknown
- Description:
-
The obvious yellow boulder
1.4.3. Others 0 routes in Unknown
- Description:
-
Two problems closest to the road
