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Table of contents

1. Elderslie Bouldering 47 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.092770, -42.570823

Description:

The bouldering at Elderslie is on sandstone boulders and is quite good but has always had access issues.

Approach:

To get there drive up the Midlands Highway from Hobart towards Brighton. Take the left hand road just before Brighton (Elderslie Road). Follow this road for 15 minutes or so before reaching Elderslie (not much more than a few farms and a golf club). Take a right a few kilometres out of Elderslie (Clifton Vale Road) and follow this dirt road for about 5 kilometres before reaching a Y intersection; take the right road (to Dysart), you will go up a rise and then the road will go down again, at the bottom of this hill on the left is the fire trail about 1 kilometre from the intersection. (Note: This first area is now mostly inaccessible, unless you can convince the new landowners otherwise!). You walk up here for 100m or so and then to your left is Slug Rock (amongst the trees) and the Ant Rocks are about 100m uphill from here. Drive on another 200m or so and on the right is the pullover next to the creek, opposite the obvious Roadside boulders. Park here to access the Block (access at your own risk!) and Forbidden Forest areas. For the Gully area, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left.

Ethic:

Most of the bouldering in this area is on relatively soft sandstone. This can, in case of recent rain or general dampness, lead to easy breaking of holds. Hence when climbing in this area on a wet or damp day, be careful not to break any important holds.

History:

It was originally discovered by Mike Berry and developed by Stu Bowling & friends in early 2001. The area got some more life in 2006 with the discovery of the Gully by Jon Nermut and Dave Humphries, and then later the Arch and the Terrace.

1.1. The Gully 31 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.093315, -42.569735

Description:

The Gully is a new area that is under development. Unlike most of Elderslie, the boulders are on Crown land, so access shouldn't be as much of an issue. There is a large amount of wildlife in the gully, including snakes and wallabies, so dogs probably aren't a good idea.

Approach:

To get there, continue on the road past the Roadside boulder for another couple of hundred metres, around the corner. Park at a large pull-out on the left. Go through the gate on the opposite side of the road, and walk through the river at the ford (usually OK except after rain). Head across the paddock to the entrance to the valley. Head up the left side of the gully, slightly up the hill to where it flattens and clears out a little. Follow the lie of the hill up the valley, until you find the first boulder, Crystal Boulder. Total walking time about 10 minutes.

1.1.1. Crystal 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left arete V0Boulder
2 The Crystal V5Boulder
3 V1 V1Boulder

1.1.2. Third Turd Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

There are a couple decent slab problems on this boulder.

Approach:

This is the next boulder along from the Crystal Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Third Turd

Slab one metre left of Arete

V3Boulder
2 VE 1

Arete

VBBoulder
3 VE 2

Right of Arete

VBBoulder

1.1.3. Paydirt 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left arete V0Boulder
2 Mantle V1Boulder
3 V1 V1Boulder
4 Paydirt / Paydirt Sit

Hang Start hold has broken in early 2013, Paydirt is now naturally a sit start and goes at around V4

V3Boulder
5 * Paydirt Sit

Sit start to Paydirt

V4Boulder
6 Back arete V2Boulder

1.1.4. Butterflies 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.094435, -42.569920

Description:

Amazing climbing, some shade in summer on the backside.

Approach:

Still on the left side of the gully (when looking up the gully), about ten minutes from the road. You'll pass Paydirt and Third Turd on the way here - keep walking the path of least resistance along the gully, they are all around the same level on the hill.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents

Front face of Butterflies (visible on approach)

1 * Butterflies V4Boulder

Backside of Butterflies

2 Warmup

Same start as V3, move straight up through a slopey hold to top out.

VBBoulder
3 ** V3

Both hands on the horizontal flake to start. Move right and up through the two edges to a sloper to top out.

V3Boulder
4 *** Three Plus Six Is Five

Start as for V3 then traverse along rails to finish up 'If 6 Was 9'

V5Boulder
5 *** If 6 Was 9

Sit start on two opposing sidepulls, up through the slopers

V6Boulder
6 *** Face full of rug

Start as for "If six was nine" and finish up top right of boulder via bad slopers

FA: Thomas Anderson, 19th Aug

V8Boulder
7 Project

Right arete

V?Boulder

1.1.5. Centipede Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

This is the next boulder across the hill from Butterflies Boulder, and is visible from the back of Butterflies.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * VE 1

Nice easy jugs on the bottom of the boulder and up

VBBoulder
2 Centipede

Left hand side of high face

V2Boulder
3 Unknown Boulder
4 VE 2

Easy problem up to the right

VBBoulder

1.1.6. Scorpion 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Approach:

Thirty seconds further along the gully from Centipede Boulder.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 LH mantle V2Boulder
2 Undercling V2Boulder
3 Scorpion

Sit start

V3Boulder

1.1.7. Elderslie Arch 5 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder

Long/Lat: 147.095451, -42.570442

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Full traverse L to R V5Boulder
2 The Fire of Life V3Boulder
3 The Rainbow Connection V2Boulder
4 Smooth Latin Groove V5Boulder
5 Let That Boy Boogie Woogie V3Boulder

1.2. The Terrace 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Long/Lat: 147.095911, -42.566730

Description:

The Terrace is a good little north facing area high on the hillside overlooking the next valley north of The Gully.

Approach:

To get there park and cross the paddock as for the Gully. Instead of heading up the valley, head left and up the hill to find a gap in the small cliffs. Head straight up the hill until you can see into the next valley. Then turn right and walk along the ridge (east) until you find the boulders. The boulders are described roughly west to east, as you come to them.

1.2.1. Tommy's Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

A steep boulder with some good problems.

Approach:

15 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** V5 Stand

Up from the big sloper and then traverse left along the lip.

FA: T.Krauss

V5Boulder
2 * V5 Sit

Sit start at the right side of the boulder then move left all the way along the lip.

FA: T. Krauss

V5Boulder
3 Project

Sit Start to V5 Stand

V?Boulder
4 V0 Sit

This problem is on the face on the back wall just to the right of a roof. Right side of face.

V0Boulder
5 V0 Stand

This problem is on the face on the back wall just to the right of a roof. Left side of face.

V0Boulder
6 Project 2

Start on Sloper in the middle of the face and head left via crimp rail to top.

V?Boulder

1.2.2. Terrace Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

About 10 metres north east of Tommy's Boulder.

Approach:

15 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Left Side

Left side of E face.

V1Boulder
2 * Arete

Nice arete

V1Boulder
3 V2

Start on right side of arete, up to ramp then move right and up.

V2Boulder
4 Project

Sit start on big holds and up thin face.

V?Boulder
5 V3

Start on big diagonal hold just left of arete

V3Boulder
6 V1

Silly little problem just right of arete

V1Boulder

1.2.3. Winter is Coming Area 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:
All Boulder
Description:

These are the problems around the distinctive bulge of Winter is Coming.

Approach:

17 mins

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 *** Winter is Coming

Great holds out through the bulge.

V4Boulder
2 V3

The little prow to the right of Winter is Coming.

V3Boulder
3 V2

Jugs around to the right.

V2Boulder
4 V1

Nice stand start on chicken heads.

V1Boulder

1.3. Roadside Boulders 0 routes in Area

Description:

There are 4 or so obvious freestanding boulders right by the parking area. These have never been developed properly. There are probably about 10 problems to be done here, but they need some cleaning.

Approach:

They are literally 10m from the road, and there is no fence, so access should not be an issue.

1.4. The Block Area 0 routes in Area

Description:

Many new problems still await ascents in this area though rock quality might not be as good as some of the more established problems.

Approach:

Park at the pullover on the right side of the road just before the roadside boulders and walk along the road for about 50m, there is a bit of a track up to the left. Walk to the top of this first small hill to reach the Block via other boulders including the Voltage boulder

1.4.1. The Block Boulder 0 routes in Unknown

Description:

Cubical Boulder with 9 routes on it

1.4.2. Yellow Boulder 0 routes in Unknown

Description:

The obvious yellow boulder

1.4.3. Others 0 routes in Unknown

Description:

Two problems closest to the road

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
VB VE 1 Boulder 1.1.2. Third Turd Boulder
VE 2 Boulder 1.1.2. Third Turd Boulder
Warmup Boulder 1.1.4. Butterflies
* VE 1 Boulder 1.1.5. Centipede Boulder
VE 2 Boulder 1.1.5. Centipede Boulder
V0 Left arete Boulder 1.1.1. Crystal
Left arete Boulder 1.1.3. Paydirt
V0 Sit Boulder 1.2.1. Tommy's Boulder
V0 Stand Boulder 1.2.1. Tommy's Boulder
V1 V1 Boulder 1.1.1. Crystal
Mantle Boulder 1.1.3. Paydirt
V1 Boulder 1.1.3. Paydirt
* Arete Boulder 1.2.2. Terrace Boulder
Left Side Boulder 1.2.2. Terrace Boulder
V1 Boulder 1.2.2. Terrace Boulder
V1 Boulder 1.2.3. Winter is Coming Area
V2 Back arete Boulder 1.1.3. Paydirt
Centipede Boulder 1.1.5. Centipede Boulder
LH mantle Boulder 1.1.6. Scorpion
Undercling Boulder 1.1.6. Scorpion
The Rainbow Connection Boulder 1.1.7. Elderslie Arch
V2 Boulder 1.2.2. Terrace Boulder
V2 Boulder 1.2.3. Winter is Coming Area
V3 Third Turd Boulder 1.1.2. Third Turd Boulder
Paydirt Boulder 1.1.3. Paydirt
** V3 Boulder 1.1.4. Butterflies
Scorpion Boulder 1.1.6. Scorpion
Let That Boy Boogie Woogie Boulder 1.1.7. Elderslie Arch
The Fire of Life Boulder 1.1.7. Elderslie Arch
V3 Boulder 1.2.2. Terrace Boulder
V3 Boulder 1.2.3. Winter is Coming Area
V4 * Paydirt Sit Boulder 1.1.3. Paydirt
* Butterflies Boulder 1.1.4. Butterflies
*** Winter is Coming Boulder 1.2.3. Winter is Coming Area
V5 The Crystal Boulder 1.1.1. Crystal
*** Three Plus Six Is Five Boulder 1.1.4. Butterflies
Full traverse L to R Boulder 1.1.7. Elderslie Arch
Smooth Latin Groove Boulder 1.1.7. Elderslie Arch
* V5 Sit Boulder 1.2.1. Tommy's Boulder
** V5 Stand Boulder 1.2.1. Tommy's Boulder
V6 *** If 6 Was 9 Boulder 1.1.4. Butterflies
V8 *** Face full of rug Boulder 1.1.4. Butterflies
? Unknown Boulder 1.1.5. Centipede Boulder
V? Project Boulder 1.1.4. Butterflies
Project Boulder 1.2.1. Tommy's Boulder
Project 2 Boulder 1.2.1. Tommy's Boulder
Project Boulder 1.2.2. Terrace Boulder