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Route descriptions from right to left. Area is a bit more spread out than the previous two areas.


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Grade Route
16 Hell No its Twins Sport 10m, 4

Up slab on left side of arête. 4BR, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, Ted Rhodes & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

17 * Shelve it Sport 10m, 3

Start 3m left of HNIT, up slab then run it out through easy ground to the belay. 3BR, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey, Ted Rhodes & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

14 * Home improvements Trad 10m

Obvious crack 1.5m left of 'Shelve it'.

FA: Jackie & Grant Severn, 1999


Up through small alcove 4m left of HI, bit dirty but worth a look. 3BR, DBB.

FA: Richard Jeffrey & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1996

14 Backyard Blitz Mixed 12m, 2

8m further left up corner past black boy sticking out of the cliff.

FA: Gordon Porter & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 1999

18 * Arête left of bb Sport 12m, 4

Up alcove right of rumba, with a small cam if needed. Step left onto arête and up to bolt belay. Can traverse left to access U bolts to clean.

22 * Route to R of Rumba Sport 12m, 4

Start: As for Rumba

Veer right up wall to finish up the the right side of of the prominent overhanging block.

21 ** Rumba Mixed 12m, 4

8m left of BB, start off low block & veer slightly right to finish back on the left side of the prominent overhanging block. Looks like this has been retro-bolted.

FA: Gordon Porter, Grant Severn & Richard Jeffrey, 2001

23 ** Techtonic Sport 12m, 7

starts on the left or right side of the undercut block at the right end of the large cave. 2 rings are placed to allow either start.Straight up to the steepening wall and the anchors directly above. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015. Much safer than the earlier version by Richard. (He gave his blessing to the rebolting)

FA: richard jeffrey, 2000

22 to 23 *** Sagittarius Sport 15m, 7

Start as for Techtonic until third ring then branches off left to the lower offs on L side of upper wall. Rebolted by Paul Riviere july 2015 with Gordon's blessing

FA: gordon porter, 2000

26 ** Living vicariously SportProject 12m, 7

10m L of Saggitarius and just before The Box. Hard start up to the roof then up and around the lip onto the arete. Finishes as for The Box. Bolted by Julian Hurrell and Paul Riviere Feb 2016. FA by Julian May 2016.

FA: Julian Hurrell

Set by julian hurrel & paul riviere, 2016

FFA: 2016

23 * The Box Sport 15m, 9, 9

Starts 8mts L of Techtonic. Crux start up the steep cavity to horizontal break at about 3.5 m. Upwards tending L around into the boxy corner. Enjoy some good old fashioned jamming (remember this is a sport climb) before leaving the crack and moving back onto the wall. Depending on the moisture continue straight up or trend a little right. Fun climb

FA: paul riviere, 2015

26 *** Modern plumbing Mixed 10m, 3

Left end of cave, stick clip first bolt to protect start, up to break #1 & 1.5 camming device then up steepening wall. DBB.

FA: Paul Riviere, 2001

23 to 25 ** Ring Leader Sport 10m, 4

Start 3m left of MP, easy climbing to the first high clip then veering right and up steepening wall to top. 2 Rings added by Paul Riviere July 2015. It was originally graded 23. Sandbag at the grade. The last move is desperate - not sure if it has ever been done without bailing left on the last move? Be the one!

Set by richard jeffrey & grant severn, 2002

21 ** Welcome to Ettalong Sport 14m, 4

Start: 3m L of Ring Leader. Trends R up the weakness L of RL with a funky move to get to the anchors. Looks easy with some fun at the end. Easy tick for the grade.

Set by paul

FFA: paul & carlos castillo, 2015

12 * Red Neck Trad 12m

Up easy slab left of RL. Mid sized Friend protects at half way.

FA: Grant Severn, Mathew Kingsman-Smith & Richard Jeffrey

14 Grubby groove Trad 6m

Corner crack 8m left of RN.

FA: Gordon Porter & Mathew Kingsman-Smith, 2000

15 Unnamed 2 Sport 8m

10m left of GG up slab left side of arête. 2BR, tree belay. FA unknown


6m further left, left side of blunt arête, always dirty. DBB.



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