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Description

A great little warm up wall with new lower offs and short well protected climbing. Something for everyone (if you like slabs).

The first wall you come to and nicely shaded.

Many of the starts were marked but time and lichen has obscured them all.

Access issues inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Evans Crown Tarana is a Nature Reserve so when climbing please keep your impact to a minimum so that NPWS doesn't ban climbing.

Ethic inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

National Parks and Wildlife Service have requested the following:

Contact Bathurst district NPWS before climbing

No new routes to be developed

No cleaning of rock faces

No camping or fires within the reserve

No use of bolts, fixtures or identifying routes with paint

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
12 Blunt Stick Trad 8m

Start: 4m right of 'Lipstick'. The far right of the crag.

FA: A.Jones,A.Farquar,G.Williams, 1990

2
14 Lipstick Mixed 8m, 2

Start: Below the overlap.

Two pitons. Desperate start for a 14.

Belay from cams in break.

FA: J.Anderson,J.Cowmeadow, 1988

3
13 Deft Trad 8m

Start: About 2m left of L. Lichenous slab.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

4

Start: 1 to 2m left of previous route.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

5
19 Save the Whale Mixed 10m, 1

Done originally without the bolt!

Start: 2m left of VS.

Belay from cams in break.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

6
17 Pass the Lentils Trad 12m

Original without the bolts!

Start: Marked. 2m left of StW.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

7
19 * Madonnas Trad 15m

Start: Marked. 3m right of 'Splat' at prickly tree.

FA: J.Smoothy,D.Huber, 1987

8
17 * Space Invaders Sport 20m, 4

Start: 1m right of 'Splat'.

DBB at top.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

9
18 * Splat Trad 15m

Start: 5m right of 'Kersplat'. Good Slab. No pro.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1987

10

Start: Slab between S and HI.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

11
17 Herd Instinct Trad 15m

Original without bolts.

FA: M.Myers, 1988

12
17 Kersplat Sport 15m

Start: 10m up hill right of the corner of TtLG.

FA: J.Smoothy,L.McManus,M.Stacey, 1987

13

Start: Chimney at the back of the terrace above 'Kersplat'. No pro.

FA: J.Friend?, 1977

14
21 * Dick Whittington Trad 15m

Start: 2m right of K.

FA: A.Penney, 1989

15
19 ** Spare the Hammer Sport 15m

Original without bolts.

Start: 2m left of DW.

Chains at top.

FA: D.Grey, 1988

16
20 * Mortal Combat Sport 18m, 3

Start: 1m right of TtLG. Desperate bouldery start off the blocks.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

17
19 * The 99 Route. Sport 15m, 4

I gave it this name as it has a flake in it. It was in the guide with a question mark for the name, which seemed a shame for a good climb. Climb the left hand end of the upper deckout buttress past a hollow flake.

18

Corner to roofs, across to squeeze chimney. Big Gear!

Start: Obvious corner in the middle of the slabs.

FA: J.Friend,A.Stewart, 1976

19
19 * Jonestown Sport 15m, 3

Start: 1m left of TtLG.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones,B.Sheerer., 1989

20
19 * Greenies' Delight Sport 15m, 2

Original without bolts.

Start: 0.5m left of GD, line of new carrots just right of the short seam.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

21
20 ** Bloodbath Sport 15m, 4

Start: Water streak 2m left of TtLG. Up to chain.

FA: M.Colyvan,J.Smoothy, 1987

22
21 * Polkagris Mixed 15m, 4

Head up past a few pockets. The carrots stick out for miles.

Belay from crack at top (4 Camalot) or use the chains on Bloodbath.

FA: C-J,Jagusch,A.Penney, 1989

23
21 Sudden Impact Trad 15m

Start: 3m left of 'Bloodbath'.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury,M.Colyvan, 1987

24
21 Chain Mail Crack Trad 15m

Overhanging fist crack.

Start: Obvious crack starting on the terrace above 'Sudden Impact'.

FA: M.Law, 1976

25
21 R * Scabby Lizards Trad 20m

Start: 3m left again. Slab and small overlap.

FA: S.Camps,J.Smoothy, 1987

26
21 ** Dr Marten's Boots Sport 25m, 6

Start: 5m down and left of SL. Up to chain.

FA: G.Bradbury,M.Colyvan,F.Lumsden,J.Smoothy, 1987

27
21 * The Owl and the Pussycat Sport 23m, 5

Sustained, steep slab.

Start: 4m left of DMB.

FA: A.Penney,CJ Jagusch, 1989

28
23 ** Roller Disco Sport 30m

Start: Marked. 7m down and left of DMB.

FA: G.Bradbury,M.Colyvan,J.Smoothy, 1987

29
21 R That's Dancin' Trad 34m

Start: 3m left of RD.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

30
12 Gandalf's Chimney Trad 35m

Start: Originally 2 pitches. Better to do it in one.

FA: B.Douglas,I.Baker,C.Brown, 1973

31
25 Police Presence Trad 14m

Boulder problem to arete.

Start: On boulder 50m NW of the buttress. Start 2m right of the SW facing corner.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

32
23 Arboretum Trad 18m

Sustained.

Start: West arete of boulder approx 120m W of the buttress.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989