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Summary

A great little warm up wall with new lower offs and short well protected climbing. Something for everyone (if you like slabs).

Description

The first wall you come to and nicely shaded.

Many of the starts were marked but time and lichen has obscured them all.

Access issues inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Evans Crown Tarana is a Nature Reserve administered by the NSW Office of Environment and Heritage. As a Nature Reserve (and unlike National Parks) the primary purpose of the administration is preservation of natural and cultural values, NOT recreation. While rock climbing is noted as a recreational use in the 2009 Plan of Management (this can be downloaded from http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/parkmanagement/EvansCrownMgmtplan.htm) it is not officially encouraged, and if the OEH believe the impact of climbing is detrimental to the natural or cultural values of the area, it can and will be banned.

The Parks and Wildlife Service requested at one stage that all climbers register their intention with them prior to climbing – this no longer seems to be the case. However, there is an existing ban on new routes, brushing or cleaning existing or new routes, no “gardening” or disturbing vegetation, no marking routes, and no camping or fires in the Reserve. No new bolts may be placed, and technically re-bolting is also forbidden.

So – in addition to the usual “Leave no Trace” guidance, please make every effort to minimise any signs of climbing activity in order to preserve our precarious access to this special place.

Ethic inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Given the restrictions on new routes, brushing and bolting, new route activity is limited to trad climbing, and the easy lines (and the hard ones!) have long ago been developed, for the most part. The casual visitor is probably advised to stick to the established climbs, there are plenty to go around. Many climbs in this guide are listed as "Sport" in that they are bolted climbs with no natural gear required (or available) - many of these are truly "sporting" with old-school runouts. Some of the "Trad" climbs have little or no protection, and were soloed on FA. Please be careful - top roping is often possible and often the only way to adequately protect a route.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Start: 4m right of 'Lipstick'. The far right of the crag. Up over bulge. Natural protection

FA: A.Jones, A.Farquar & G.Williams, 1990

Start: Below the overlap - up slab past two pitons over overlap. Desperate start for a 14.

Belay from a couple of #3 or larger cams in break. You can walk off to the right or back through the Camping Cave from the first 5 or 6 climbs.

FA: J.Anderson & J.Cowmeadow, 1988

Start: About 2m left of Lipstick. Lichenous slab, no pro. FA solo.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

Start: 1 to 2m left of previous route. Up lichenous slab, no pro, FA solo.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

Done originally without the bolt or brushing! Up slab past one BR. FA solo.

Start: 2m left of VS.

Belay from cams in break.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

Original without the bolts!

Start: Originally marked, no longer visible. 2m left of StW.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

Start: Used to be marked. 3m right of 'Splat' at prickly tree. Up slab past 2 bolts

FA: J.Smoothy & D.Huber, 1987

Start: 1m right of 'Splat'.Up slab past bolts.

DBB at top.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

Start: 5m right of 'Kersplat'. Good Slab. No pro. FA solo

FA: J.Smoothy, 1987

Start: Slab between Splat and Herd Instinct past a BR to BB plus tree further back.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

Original without bolts.Up between Splat and Kersplat.

FA: M.Myers, 1988

Start: 10m up hill right of the corner of Through the Looking Glass. Another hard start to a good slab. Up slab past 3 BRs to DBB and chains behind the tree.

Note: new DBB & chains can be used for 4-5 climbs in this area, and using them will save the long-suffering tree. This belay station can be accessed by walking around and through the slot to set up top ropes if you prefer.

FA: J.Smoothy, L.McManus & M.Stacey, 1987

Start: Chimney at the back of the terrace above 'Kersplat'. No pro.

FA: J.Friend?, 1977

Start: 2m left of Kersplat, on right of slab. Difficult start leads to pleasant slab. Up past 2 BR.

FA: A.Penney, 1989

Original without bolts or brushing - FA solo. Up slab past 4 BR.

Start: 2m left of DW.

Chains at top.

FA: D.Grey, 1988

Start: 1m right of TtLG. Desperate bouldery start off the blocks past BR, then at a more sane angle up pleasant slab past 2 BR to BB.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

I gave it this name as it has a flake in it. It was in the guide with a question mark for the name, which seemed a shame for a good climb. Climb the left hand end of the upper deckout buttress past a hollow flake.

Corner to roofs, across to squeeze chimney. Big Gear!

Start: Obvious easy-angled corner in the middle of the Deckout Buttress slabs. Up this to roofs (Jonestown DBB & chains make an intermediate belay possible) then wriggle across top of block to the squeeze-chimney exit. Recommend breaking into 2 pitches to minimise inevitable rope drag.

FA: J.Friend & A.Stewart, 1976

Start: 1m left of TtLG. Lovely smearing. Up a few metres on L of brushed streak, then step up and R past 3x FH to ledge & DBB / chains

FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & B.Sheerer., 1989

Original without bolts.

Start: 0.5m left of Jonestown, line of new carrots just right of the short seam. FA solo.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

Start: Water streak 2m left of Jonestown. Up slab past 4 BR to chain. Often wet.

FA: M.Colyvan & J.Smoothy, 1987

The famous Swedish candy stick. Between Bloodbath and Sudden Impact. Head up past a few pockets and 4 BR. The carrots stick out for miles.

Belay from crack at top (4 Camalot) or use the chains on Bloodbath.

FA: C-J, Jagusch & A.Penney, 1989

Start: 3m left of 'Bloodbath'. A one move wonder. Hard moves past the first BR then easily up the railway tracks past another BR to ledge (3 Friend and large nut anchor)

FA: J.Smoothy, G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1987

Ghastly looking, overhanging fist crack.

Start: Obvious crack starting on the terrace above 'Sudden Impact'.

FA: M.Law, 1976

Start: 3m left again. Slab and small overlap. A bit thin on bolts

FA: S.Camps & J.Smoothy, 1987

Start: 5m down and left of Scabby Lizards. Up slabby wall past 5-6 BR to DBB & chain. Good sustained low angle climbing.

FA: G.Bradbury, M.Colyvan, F.Lumsden & J.Smoothy, 1987

Good climbing up sustained, steep slab.

Start: 4m left of DMB. Up past 5 BR (2 with FH) to small ledge and rap station.

FA: A.Penney & CJ Jagusch, 1989

Start: Marked. 7m down and left of DMB. Desperately smooth slab - up past 6 BR to DBB rap station.

FA: G.Bradbury, M.Colyvan & J.Smoothy, 1987

Start: 3m left of RD. An interesting jaunt, a fall near the top could be nasty. Up the steep lower section past 3 BR. Continue at a more reasonable angle past another 2 BR to DBB 2m L of RD's belay. Bring some brackets.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

Start: Originally 2 pitches with an optional 3rd - the terrace leading around R to to the start of Chain Mail Crack. Better to do it in one.

The obvious chimney a few m L of RD. Through roof at 5m. Chockstone belay.

FA: B.Douglas, I.Baker & C.Brown, 1973

Boulder problem to arete.

Start: On boulder 50m NW of the buttress. Start 2m right of the SW facing corner. Desperate boulder problem to start. Stick clip first BR and fall upwards, moving R to the arete.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Sustained all the way to the summit.

Start: On West arete of a big boulder approx 120m W of the Deckout buttress. Bridge up desperately between tree and wall, then up past 6 BR.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

Activity

Check out what is happening in Deckout Buttress.