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Summary

The Deckout Buttress is actually the N side of the Googolplex Crag.

Description

If you keep walking around L from Deckout, you'll come to an impressive section of slabs - this is the E face of Googolplex Crag. They can also be accessed from the other side via the obvious hole and descent route of the Coffin Hole

Access issues inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Evans Crown Tarana is a Nature Reserve administered by the NSW Office of Environment and Heritage. As a Nature Reserve (and unlike National Parks) the primary purpose of the administration is preservation of natural and cultural values, NOT recreation. While rock climbing is noted as a recreational use in the 2009 Plan of Management (this can be downloaded from http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/parkmanagement/EvansCrownMgmtplan.htm) it is not officially encouraged, and if the OEH believe the impact of climbing is detrimental to the natural or cultural values of the area, it can and will be banned.

The Parks and Wildlife Service requested at one stage that all climbers register their intention with them prior to climbing – this no longer seems to be the case. However, there is an existing ban on new routes, brushing or cleaning existing or new routes, no “gardening” or disturbing vegetation, no marking routes, and no camping or fires in the Reserve. No new bolts may be placed, and technically re-bolting is also forbidden.

So – in addition to the usual “Leave no Trace” guidance, please make every effort to minimise any signs of climbing activity in order to preserve our precarious access to this special place.

Approach

Walk around left from Deckout Buttress, or around right and up from Deckout Buttress and through the Coffin Hole.

Ethic inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Given the restrictions on new routes, brushing and bolting, new route activity is limited to trad climbing, and the easy lines (and the hard ones!) have long ago been developed, for the most part. The casual visitor is probably advised to stick to the established climbs, there are plenty to go around. Many climbs in this guide are listed as "Sport" in that they are bolted climbs with no natural gear required (or available) - many of these are truly "sporting" with old-school runouts. Some of the "Trad" climbs have little or no protection, and were soloed on FA. Please be careful - top roping is often possible and often the only way to adequately protect a route.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 *** Mr Bubbles Sport 25m, 5

Start: Near the top of the Coffin Hole 'Gully', about 10m right of 'Field Commander Jagusch'. Up slab past 5BR to DBB

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

2

Start: . From block on right edge of slab 1 - 2m left of MB, step left onto slab. Up past 5 BR to Mr Bubbles belay.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

3
20 * Field Commander Jagusch Mixed 35m, 5

Start: 1m right of REN. Up slab past 5 BR to DBB. A 2.5 Friend is useful near the top.

FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & M.Newberry, 1990

4

Start: 4m right of GHtHHH. Up past 2 BR and over bulge, up face right of prominent groove past 4 BR and #3 Friend.

FA: R.Stiles & M.King, 1989

5
21 Bilbo Baggins Direct Start Unknown 10m, 3

From cairn about 2m R of GHtHHH climb slab past 3 BR to join top crack of 2001 Bilbo Baggins. FA unknown.

FA: 1990

6

Quite nice. Start: 2m right of SDotT. Short slab past 2 BR, across 2001BB, up past 4 BR to DBB on SDotT.

FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & S.Pierce, 1989

7

A classic. Start: Scramble up the Coffin Hole for about 15m to the top of a large boulder - the climb starts here. Belay Bolt. Straight up slab past BR to the diagonal of 2001 Bilbo Baggins where you can get a wire in. Straight up again past 4 BR to DBB.

FA: M.Colyvan & J.Smoothy, 1987

8
22 ** Laughing Boy Morris Sport 55m, 2, 9

Good sustained climbing up a striking line. Start: 2m right of TOfE.

  1. 25m (Crux) up slab past 4 BR (3 with hangers) to large ledge with BB.

  2. 30m (crux) Sustained and thin slab climbing past 5 BR between Finger Tight and SDotT. After last BR, 15m of easier climbing leads past large ledge to DBB of SDotT.

FA: A.Penney & CJ.Jagusch, 1989

9

Finish Retreat from Moscow by traversing to the far righthand end of the belay slab, equalising the fixed hanger on LBM and a manky 6mm carrot 2m left. Continue heading up and right along a slowly narrowing groove (2001BB) which eventually becomes an overlap and thin seam, clipping bolts on SDOTT, GHtHHH and REN and supplementing with cams (#1 BD, #3 BD) and a Mid-sized hex. When the grove widens and breaks upwards into unprotected vertical climbing, continue right past REN to the next major line of bolts (FCJ), and continue up this to finish (supplement with slinging bomber flake, and slinging shrub). Belay bolts well back from edge.

May not be a first ascent, but was done as a safe way of retreating from Escape from Moscow, avoiding any of the more committing climbs above, and with minimal gear. Despite the length and wandery nature of this climb, rope-drag was not a problem.

FA: P. Thomson (L) & A. Cummings (S)., 2012

10
22 * This One's for Evelyn Mixed 25m, 2

Start: Marked. 10m right of 2001BB. Desperately up slab past BR, then more easily up groove (4RP and small cam) to another BR. Move L, then easily up slab to big ledge & BB.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987

11
18 * 2001 Bilbo Baggins Trad 65m, 2

The first line up this impressive face. The obvious crack line leading up to a L-R diagonal ramp

  1. 30m Up delicate slab with finger pocket to crack, up to ramp.Follow this R to ledge/ramp. BB on TOfE just before the start of the ramp proper.

  2. 35m Right up ramp to groove and straight up.

Start: Obvious crack leading to diagonal ramp.

FA: M.Law, J.Friend & B.Ewald, 1976

12
20 * Desperately Seeking Evan Mixed 25m, 3

A really pleasant white slab.

Start: As for 2001BB. Crack until it curves right. Move left onto slab and up past 3 BR to good ledge & BB.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987

13
23 * Finger Tight Trad 30m

Start: On the terrace where DSE ends, directly above that climb. Can rap in from the top of SDotT. Straight up past 3 BR then run it out up the slab. Wander across to the DBB on top of SDotT

FA: P.Colyvan & G.Robbins, 1988

14
21 *** Retreat from Moscow Sport 25m, 5

Sustained with a thin start. Start: 3m left of 2001BB on top of log. Fire up past 5 BR (with FH) then easily to a small ledge with DBB - rap off.

FA: A.Penney & B.Scheerer, 1989

15
21 * Shelf Life Mixed 30m, 4

Good looking hanging arete.

Start: Rap in from top of buttress between FN and SDotT (there is a large boulder near the edge here). Cam belay on obvious ledge at base of arete. Up arete past 4 BR.

FA: P.Bayne & M.Colyvan, 1988

16
18 *** Fuzzy Navel Trad 75m, 2

A classic long arete.

Start: Thin crack 2m right of TH.

  1. 30m (18) Up crack and wall to join TH at wider crack. Belay in the groove from chockstone and and number 4 cam plus more gear around another chockstone further up the groove.

  2. 45m (18) Step left to arete and uppast 2 BR as for TH. Then on up the sustained arete past 4 BR to BB.

FA: P.Bayne, D.Haines, J.Monaghan & M.Colyvan, 1988

17
26 * Rubber Nuns Trad 35m

Good, hard slab climbing!

Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip past 2BR to bulge, hard moves over this past BR to stance, head up slab past BR to belay as per TH.

FA: P.Colyvan, 1989

18
23 *** The Howling Trad 85m

Classic!

Start: Marked. 10m left of 2001BB. Thin right leaning diagonal crack. Up crack to better crack and up to tree. Left to arete and up. Traverse down and left along ramp to belay. Right side of arete and up.

Please note that the climb has gone back to nature and is unclimbable. Pity

FA: G.Robertson & M.Colyvan, 1987

19
18 Bonsai D-lite Trad 55m

Start: 12 left of TH. Slab and up open-ended, vegetated chimney.

FA: J.Friend & Palmer, 1977

20
23 ** Mr Sheen Trad 50m, 2

Sustained and delicate.

Start: 2m left of BD.

  1. 35m Follow the blunt arete, moving L just before teh final steep section, then R again to the stance. 7 BR, some with FH plus a #2 Friend in crack low down.

  2. 15m Slightly easier slab past BR leads to a very tricky finale over the bulge, protected by another BR. Easy walk up slab to stance & DBB

FA: G.de Lacy, A.Schnarbel, B.Stevens & D.Taylor, 1988

21

Start: 25m left of TH.Straight up to BR and jug at 8m, diagonally L to BR and jug at 16m. Up easing slab.

FA: M.Law & G.Robertson, 1988

22
24 * A Ticklish Affair Sport 40m, 3

Sustained, varied climbing. Start as for TfJ.

  1. (24) Up TJ to bolt, then straight up wall past 3 more BR to DBB at back of ledge.

  2. 15m (24) Slither up corner behind past 3BR (BR at top protects second) and then walk right to 'Mr Sheen' belay

  3. 15m (23) finish up MS p2.

Start: As for TfJ. 3 pitches.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

23
22 * Thrashing the Mullet Gun Mixed 25m, 3

Some neat moves.

Start: Thin open corner 5m left of TA and about 20m L of MS. Stem up against boulder to BR, then up corner to good pockets (nut pro). Tricky move around the next BR, then slab to rap bolts. 3 FH in total.

FA: M.Stacey & F.Moon, 1989

24
13 * Feanor Trad 60m, 2

Start: 20m left of Bonsai Delight. 2 pitches up crack to roofs, awkwardly right to big chimney and up.

FA: J.Friend, P.Blackwood & B.Wilson, 1973

25
10 Reflections Trad 10m

Start on the boulder opposite the curving, smooth wall up and left of 'Feanor'. Low angled corner.

FA: J.Friend, 1970

26
23 * Ice Trad 10m

Start: On same boulder as Reflections, down and round L from that climb. Step off boulder onto slab. Up diagonally left for pro (desperate nut placement), then up dyke diagonally right past 2 BR to poor BB belay at trees.

FA: M.Law, 1988

27
14 * Passionate Pleasantries Trad 30m, 2

A very good slab route. Start further L from the big curving wall on some boulders just R of a gully in a corner.

  1. Step right onto slab, up past 3 BR to large ledge.

  2. Short crack then across to the mainland.

Start: Up left from the big, curving wall on some boulders right of a gully. 2 pitches.

FA: J.Monaghan & F.Lumsden, 1988

28
23 * Belly Acres Trad 10m

Very pumpy for its length. An undercling going nowhere.

Start: Middle of the wall to the left of, and at right angle to PP. Stick clip 1st BR and a few hard moves gain flake. Undercling and jam to its end, and lower off the bolt..

FA: J.Smoothy, G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1987

29
16 Parallelsogood Trad 15m

Start: Obvious squeeze chimney on the western side of Goog Gap that faces Celeborn

FA: J.Friend, 1977

30
20 Kazad Dum Trad 10m

Start: 4m left of P. Off width crack for 4m then right.

FA: R.Reynolds, 1988

31
18 White Wizard Trad 10m

Once a test piece in EBs. Take big friends!

Start: 30m left of P in quiet gully. Right-to-left diagonal corner under overhang, across coloured slab to ledge. Scramble off L.

FA: M.Law, 1976

32
17 Crystal Cavern Unknown 25m
33
21 Bilbo Baggins DS. Trad 10m

Start: Cairn 2m right of GHtHHH. Join top crack of 2001BB.

FA: Unknown, 1990

Activity

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