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Access issues inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Evans Crown Tarana is a Nature Reserve so when climbing please keep your impact to a minimum so that NPWS doesn't ban climbing.

Ethic inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

National Parks and Wildlife Service have requested the following:

Contact Bathurst district NPWS before climbing

No new routes to be developed

No cleaning of rock faces

No camping or fires within the reserve

No use of bolts, fixtures or identifying routes with paint

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
20 *** Mr Bubbles Trad 25m

Start: Near the top of the Coffin Hole 'Gully', about 10m right of 'Field Commander Jagusch'.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990


Start: 1 - 2m left of MB. Block on right edge of slab. Step left onto slab.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990


Start: 1m right of REN.

FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & M.Newberry, 1990


Start: 4m right of GHtHHH. Up and over bulge, up face right of prominent groove.

FA: R.Stiles & M.King, 1989


Start: 2m right of SDotT. Short slab, across 2001BB, up.

FA: A.Penney, A.Jones & S.Pierce, 1989


Start: Scramble up the Coffin Hole to the top of a large boulder Belay Bolt. Straight up slab to the diagonal. Straight up again.

FA: M.Colyvan & J.Smoothy, 1987

22 ** Laughing Boy Morris Sport 55m

Start: 2m right of TOfE. 2 pitches.

FA: A.Penney & CJ.Jagusch, 1989


Finish Retreat from Moscow by traversing to the far righthand end of the belay slab, equalising the fixed hanger on LBM and a manky 6mm carrot 2m left. Continue heading up and right along a slowly narrowing groove (2001BB) which eventually becomes an overlap and thin seam, clipping bolts on SDOTT, GHtHHH and REN and supplementing with cams (#1 BD, #3 BD) and a Mid-sized hex. When the grove widens and breaks upwards into unprotected vertical climbing, continue right past REN to the next major line of bolts (FCJ), and continue up this to finish (supplement with slinging bomber flake, and slinging shrub). Belay bolts well back from edge.

May not be a first ascent, but was done as a safe way of retreating from Escape from Moscow, avoiding any of the more committing climbs above, and with minimal gear. Despite the length and wandery nature of this climb, rope-drag was not a problem.

FA: P. Thomson (L) & A. Cummings (S)., 2012


Start: Marked. 10m right of 2001BB.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987

18 * 2001 Bilbo Baggins Trad 65m

1).Slab with finger pocket to crack, up to ramp.2).Right up ramp to groove and straight up.

Start: Obvious crack leading to diagonal ramp.

FA: M.Law, J.Friend & B.Ewald, 1976


White Slab.

Start: As for 2001BB. Crack until it curves right. Left onto slab and up.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Bradbury, 1987

23 * Finger Tight Trad 30m

Start: On the terrace where DSE ends. Can rap in from the top of SDotT. Straight up.

FA: P.Colyvan & G.Robbins, 1988

21 *** Retreat from Moscow Sport 25m

Start: 3m left of 2001BB on top of log.

FA: A.Penney & B.Scheerer, 1989

21 * Shelf Life Trad 30m

Hanging arete.

Start: Rap in from top of buttress between FN and SDotT.

FA: P.Bayne & M.Colyvan, 1988

18 *** Fuzzy Navel Trad 75m, 2

Start: Thin crack 2m right of TH.

  1. 30m (18) Up crack and wall to wider crack. Belay in the groove from chockstone and and number 4 cam plus more gear around another chockstone further up the groove.

  2. 45m (18) Step left to arete and up as for TH. Then on up the arete.

FA: P.Bayne, D.Haines, J.Monaghan & M.Colyvan, 1988

26 * Rubber Nuns Trad 35m

Good, hard slab climbing!

Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip to bulge, over this to stance and up.

FA: P.Colyvan, 1989

23 *** The Howling Trad 85m


Start: Marked. 10m left of 2001BB. Thin right leaning diagonal crack. Up crack to better crack and up to tree. Left to arete and up. Traverse down and left along ramp to belay. Right side of arete and up.

Please note that the climb has gone back to nature and is unclimbable. Pity

FA: G.Robertson & M.Colyvan, 1987

18 Bonsai D-lite Trad 55m

Start: 12 left of TH. Slab and up chimney.

FA: J.Friend & Palmer, 1977

23 ** Mr Sheen Trad 50m

Sustained and delicate.

Start: 2m left of BD.

FA: G.de Lacy, A.Schnarbel, B.Stevens & D.Taylor, 1988


Start: 25m left of TH.

FA: M.Law & G.Robertson, 1988

24 * A Ticklish Affair Trad 40m

1).Up to bolt. Straight up wall to ledge. 2).Up corner and then right to 'Mr Sheen' belay 3). finish up MS.

Start: As for TfJ. 3 pitches.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988


Start: Thin open corner 5m left of ATA. Up corner to pockets then slab to finish.

FA: M.Stacey & F.Moon, 1989

13 * Feanor Trad 60m

Start: 20 left of BD. 2 pitches. Crack to roofs, right to chimney and up.

FA: J.Friend, P.Blackwood & B.Wilson, 1973

10 Reflections Trad 10m

Start: Boulder opposite the curving, smooth wall anf left of 'Feanor'. Low angled corner.

FA: J.Friend, 1970

23 * Ice Trad 10m

Start: On boulder left of R. Step off boulder onto slab. Diagonally left for pro, then up right to belay at trees.

FA: M.Law, 1988


Right onto slab to ledge. Short crack then across to the mainland.

Start: Up left from the big, curving wall on some boulders right of a gully. 2 pitches.

FA: J.Monaghan & F.Lumsden, 1988

23 * Belly Acres Trad 10m

Start: Middle of the wall left and at right angle to PP. Stick clip. Up to flake and up.

FA: J.Smoothy, G.Bradbury & M.Colyvan, 1987

16 Parallelsogood Trad 15m

Start: Obvious squeeze chimney on the western side of Goog Gap.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

20 Kazad Dum Trad 10m

Start: 4m left of P. Off width crack for 4m then right.

FA: R.Reynolds, 1988

18 White Wizard Trad 10m

Once a test piece. Take big friends!

Start: 30m left of P in quiet gully. Right left diagonal corner under overhang, across coloured slab to ledge.

FA: M.Law, 1976

17 Crystal Cavern Unknown 25m
21 Bilbo Baggins DS. Trad 10m

Start: Cairn 2m right of GHtHHH. Join top crack of 2001BB.

FA: Unknown, 1990


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