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Description

This is the buttress immediately S of Goog Gap and features Evans Crown itself, the highest point in the area. Climbs are described here from L-R.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Evans Crown Tarana is a Nature Reserve administered by the NSW Office of Environment and Heritage. As a Nature Reserve (and unlike National Parks) the primary purpose of the administration is preservation of natural and cultural values, NOT recreation. While rock climbing is noted as a recreational use in the 2009 Plan of Management (this can be downloaded from http://www.environment.nsw.gov.au/parkmanagement/EvansCrownMgmtplan.htm) it is not officially encouraged, and if the OEH believe the impact of climbing is detrimental to the natural or cultural values of the area, it can and will be banned.

The Parks and Wildlife Service requested at one stage that all climbers register their intention with them prior to climbing – this no longer seems to be the case. However, there is an existing ban on new routes, brushing or cleaning existing or new routes, no “gardening” or disturbing vegetation, no marking routes, and no camping or fires in the Reserve. No new bolts may be placed, and technically re-bolting is also forbidden.

So – in addition to the usual “Leave no Trace” guidance, please make every effort to minimise any signs of climbing activity in order to preserve our precarious access to this special place.

Approach

South of Goog Gap - the flat gully separating Googolplex and 'Crown Buttress'.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Given the restrictions on new routes, brushing and bolting, new route activity is limited to trad climbing, and the easy lines (and the hard ones!) have long ago been developed, for the most part. The casual visitor is probably advised to stick to the established climbs, there are plenty to go around. Many climbs in this guide are listed as "Sport" in that they are bolted climbs with no natural gear required (or available) - many of these are truly "sporting" with old-school runouts. Some of the "Trad" climbs have little or no protection, and were soloed on FA. Please be careful - top roping is often possible and often the only way to adequately protect a route.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 R * Born Crazy Trad 70m

Start: Left arete of 'Shagrat', reached by a horizontal crack which leads out of Shagrat about 8m up. As for S then crack to arete and up, getting protection where you can.

FA: M.Law & A.Penney, 1977

2
7 R * Shagrat Trad 65m

Quite a pleasant outing. Up the left gully on the main part of the east face of Crown Buttress. FA solo

FA: J.Friend (solo), 1973

3

Start: 3m left of Barry Dur. Up past 4BR to chain on Barry Dur.

FA: J.Fletcher & F.Lumsden, 1988

4
19 * Barry Dur Sport 25m, 3

Start: 2m left of 'Barad Dur'. Climb arete past 3BR to join Barad Dur at lip of roof. Left to chain.

FA: M.Law & J.Fletcher, 1988

5
18 ** Barad Dur Trad 75m, 4

Originally done with a couple of points of aid. Joe Friend freed this in 1975 and added the last pitch.

Start: In the L side of Gorbag's 'Gully'. Cracks to roof, swing left through roof and up to belay. 2 & 3). Cracks, seam and slab to large ledge. 4). Up overhanging crack in the little headwall.

FFA: J.Friend

FA: (FA:R.Douglas & D.Tanner), 1973

6
8 Gorbag Trad 70m

The right gully. Start about 10m up and right from 'Shagrat'. Up gully / chimney. FA solo

FA: J.Friend, 1973

7
26 Spouse Mixed 49m, 5

Not very nice. Start: 5 or 6m down left of SoH. Climb buttress past 5 BR then when 5m above last BR, traverse right into SoH.

FA: M.Law, 1988

8
22 * Sea of Heartbreak Mixed 35m, 5

Much of the offwidth can be avoided by traversing in from the right. Some good face climbing when you get there. Start: 'Diagonal' Off width on left wall of 'Walloper'. Stick clip, up offwidth past another BR, traverse left and up to 3rd BR, then up dyke past 2BR to chain belay.

FA: M.Colyvan & P.Bayne, 1988

9
21 No Love Lost Mixed 35m, 2

Start: As for SoH. Takes the diagonal off width all the way. Stick clip first BR, climb off width past 2nd BR of SoH, and continue up off-width & chimney

FA: M.Colyvan & G.Moore, 1988

10
17 Walloper Trad 35m

Start: Marked. Big ugly chimney in an obvious square cut gully down and left from Goog Gap. Up in whatever manner you see fit.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

11
22 * High Moral Ground Mixed 33m, 7

Start: Use cairn to climb left side of the rib 5m right of SoH. BB and bush to L.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

12
17 ** Blue Train Sport 30m, 6

Up short wall, then follow the blunt arete. Start: 2m left of 'Dyke'.

FA: M.Myers, M.Ellims & D.Haines, 1988

13
15 * Dyke Sport 20m, 3

The prominent Dyke running up the nose between 'Blue Train' and 'Cirdan'.

14
13 * Cirdan Sport 20m, 5

Up the delicate slab and mantle to groove about 6m above the ground then up and over to top. Start: 2m right of 'Dyke' on the left hand wall in Goog Gap.

FA: Wilson & Hatherly, 1974

15
21 ** Unkown Four Unknown 20m

FA: Unknown

16
15 * Unknown Five Unknown 20m

FA: Unknown

17
23 Hotel du Lac Mixed 30m, 4

An interesting groove with an infuriating overhang. Andrew Penney returned to eliminate the single point of aid.

Start: 10m right of Goog 'Gully'. The left groove of 2. Up short slab past BR into crack. Easily up crack, groove to bulge. Hard move past BR to gain groove. Up groove and easy slab past 2BR to BB.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

18
20 * Jagusch Putsch Mixed 30m, 4

Interesting climb up pleasant groove.

Start: Up right groove (of 2 grooves) 2m right of 'Hotel du Lac', then pull into groove proper. 4BRs, then small wires to protect upper section. BB.

FA: A.Jones & S.Johnstone, 1989

19

Start: 4m right of 'Jagusch Putsch', left of 1st BR. Up to dyke & ledge, over bulge, and up easy ground.

FA: D.Haines & S.Thompson, 1988

20
21 R * Rap Station Zebra Mixed 30m, 5

Start: 4m left of Celeborn. Up slab past BR to join UtNoL. Clip BR on UtNoL, cross, and follow short, low angled groove/ramp to where it steepens and fades. A few dubious wires are possible at this stage. Clip a high BR and let the fun begin! Blunder up past 2BR keeping left of cleaned area to a small ledge & rap station.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

21

Start: As for Celeborn. Left to dyke, follow water smear over bulge. Left up wall to ledge at 3rd bolt. Then left to finish on BMDiL.

FA: M.Myers & S.Hutley, 1988

22
17 R ** Celeborn Trad 25m

Start: About 20m down R from Goog Gap. Committing slab and groove to crack at 20m. FA solo

FA: J.Friend, 1976

23
21 ** Honey, I Shrunk the Kids Sport 25m, 4

Good clean fun.

Start: 1m right of Celeborn. Up slab and overlap past 4BR to rap station on small ledge.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

24
21 Unknown Sport 2

Up slab and overlap past some rusty carrots.

Start: 2m right of 'Honey, I Shrunk the Kids'.

25
18 * Jika Jika Sport 30m, 4

Start: 5m right of 'Honey, I Shrunk the Kids' and 2m left of Optem Bop.

Up past 3 fixed hangers and a carrot to rap station or lower offs at 15m. Crux passing 1st BR

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

26
16 * Optem Bop Sport 30m, 5

Start: 10m right of Celeborn. Middle of face over bulge (undercling hold) by BR, up slab to join NoR. Rap from chains.

FA: M.Ellims & M.Myers, 1988

27
18 * Jailbreak from H-Block Sport 33m, 3

Start: A few metres right of Optem Bop - interesting crux start followed by easy ramble.

Up past 3 fixed hangers to rap station or to lower-offs at 15m.

FA: A.Penney & A.Jones, 1990

28
12 * Nerves of Rubber Mixed 30m, 2

Start: 6m right of OB. Up short slab to crack (cams) and pockets tending left. Slab to belay as for OB.

FA: M.Ellims, 1988

29
12 * Blame it on Sarah Trad 40m, 2

Start: 6m right of NoR.

  1. Crack to ledge and L around bush.

  2. From back of ledge, short wall to crack belay as for OB. 2 pitches.

FA: M.Ellims & V.Talon, 1988

30
16 ** Downright Left Trad 15m

Start: West side of the Crown Buttress. Down and round right from 'Celeborn'. Right to left diagonal across roof capped wall. Then traverse.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

31

Start: 4m right of of DL. Crack to roof - tenuous at first then better. Belay here (chain around block) or traverse right into Lemuria's top chimney.

FA: M.Law, 1977

32
17 * Lemuria Trad 25m

Up to obvious big, coloured off width roof right of LGC, then squeeze up chimney.

FA: J.Friend & W.Wilson, 1973

33
14 Elfin Trad 10m

Start: Up the inset corner at the back of the west facing gully 20m right of Lemuria, at the smaller end of the crag.

FA: J.Friend & W.Wilson, 1973

34
12 Thorin Trad 10m

Start: A few metres right from E. 'Layback' to L-hand roof.

FA: J.Friend & W.Wilson, 1973

The following three routes are directly above 'Dyke' on a North facing wall with a large block on top of it.

To reach it head up Goog Gap Gully then skirt around left until you reach the wall.

35
19 ** lefty Sport 20m
36
19 * Small Pox Wall Mixed 25m, 2

The middle route of the three on the wall. Up wall past 2 BR to horizontal break (cams), step over overlap and up to BB.

FA: P.Bayne & M.Colyvan, 1988

37
20 ** righty Sport 25m
38
13 * Tanner's Leap Trad 20m

The original line to the summit.

Start: On the South of Evans Crown. Chimney between the Crown and boulder, step across gap and pull up onto ledge. Crack to summit.

FA: D.Tanner, 1971

39
14 * Flog a Dog Trad 20m

Start: Opposite side of Crown from Tanner's Leap. Hand-traverse break, then pull up to juggy chimney/offwidth.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

40

Start: Up at Right end of short juggy boulder adjacent to the Crown, S of Tanner's Leap

FA: A.Stewart, 1977

41
25 * ? Unknown 30m
42
21 * Y? Unknown 20m
43
17 Unknown Six Unknown 20m

FA: Unknown

44
15 * SB#1 Unknown 18m

FA: Steve Babka

45
16 * SB#2 Unknown 18m

FA: Steve Babka

46
21 SB#3 Unknown 18m

FA: Steve Babka

Activity

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