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Description

This is Evans Crown. The highest point in the area.

© (mjw)

Access issues inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Evans Crown Tarana is a Nature Reserve so when climbing please keep your impact to a minimum so that NPWS doesn't ban climbing.

Approach

South of Goog Gap - the flat gully separating Googolplex and 'Crown Buttress'.

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

National Parks and Wildlife Service have requested the following:

Contact Bathurst district NPWS before climbing

No new routes to be developed

No cleaning of rock faces

No camping or fires within the reserve

No use of bolts, fixtures or identifying routes with paint

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
20 R * Born Crazy Trad 70m

Start: Left arete of 'Shagrat'. As for S then crack to arete and up.

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1977

2
7 R * Shagrat Trad 65m

Start: Left gully on the main part of the east face.

FA: J.Friend (solo), 1973

3

Start: 3m left of Barry Dur. Up to chain on Barry Dur.

FA: J.Fletcher,F.Lumsden, 1988

4
19 * Barry Door Sport 25m

Start: 2m left of 'Barad Dur'. 'Arete' to join BD at lip of roof. Left to chain.

FA: M.Law,J.Fletcher, 1988

5
18 * Barad Dur Trad 75m

Originally done with a couple of points of aid. Joe Friend freed this in 1975 and added the last pitch.

Start: In the lelt side of Gorbag's 'Gully'. Cracks to roof, left through roof and up to belay. 2 & 3). Cracks, seam and slab to ledge. 4). Overhanging crack.

FFA: J.Friend

FA: (FA:R.Douglas,D.Tanner), 1973

6
8 Gorbag Trad 70m

Start: The gully right side. 10m up and right from 'Shagrat'.

FA: J.Friend, 1973

7
26 Spouse Trad 49m

Start: 5 or 6m down left of SoH. Buttress then right into SoH.

FA: M.Law, 1988

8
22 * Sea of Heartbreak Trad 35m

Start: 'Diagonal' Off width on left wall of 'Walloper'. Stick clip, up offwidth, traverse left then up dyke to belay.

FA: M.Colyvan,P.Bayne, 1988

9
21 No Love Lost Trad 35m

Start: AS for SoH. Off width all the way.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Moore, 1988

10
17 Walloper Trad 35m

Start: Marked. Big chimney in the square cut gully down and left of Goog Gap.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

11
22 * High Moral Ground Trad 33m

Start: Cairn left side of the rib 5m right of SoH.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

12
17 * Blue Train Trad 30m

Start: Short wall and arete.

FA: M.Myers,M.Ellims,D.Haines, 1988

13
13 Cirdan Trad 20m

Start: Marked. Groove about 6m above the ground on the right in Goog Gap. Slab to groove and up.

FA: Wilson,Hatherly, 1974

14
21 ** Unkown Four Unknown 20m

FA: Unknown

15
15 * Unknown Five Unknown 20m

FA: Unknown

16
23 Hotel du Lac Trad 30m

Start: 10m right of Goog 'Gully'. Slab to crack,groove to bulge. Groove and up.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

17
20 * Jagusch Putsch Trad 30m

Start: Up right groove 10m left of 'Celeborn'. Take wires.

FA: A.Jones,S.Johnstone, 1989

18

Start: 20m left of 'Celeborn'.

FA: D.Haines,S.Thompson, 1988

19
21 R Rap Station Zebra Trad 30m

Start: 4m left of C. Slab across UtNoL to low angled groove/ramp and up.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

20

Start: As for C. Left to dyke, water smear over bulge. left up wall to ledge at 3rd bolt. Finish as for BMDiL.

FA: M.Myers,S.Hutley, 1988

21
17 R * Celeborn Trad 25m

Start: Marked. Slab and groove to crack.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

22
21 ** Honey, I Shrunk the Kids Sport 25m, 4

Start: 1m right of Celeborn. Slab and overlap to ledge.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

23
18 Jika Jika Sport 30m, 4

Start: 5m right of Honey, I Shrunk the Kids.

Up past 3 fixed hangers and a carrot to rap station.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

24
16 * Optem Bop Sport 30m

Start: 10m right of C. Middle of face to bulge, up slab to join NoR.

FA: M.Ellims,M.Myers, 1988

25
18 * Jailbreak from H-Block Sport 33m, 4

Start: A few metres right of Optem Bop.

Up past fixed hangers to rap station.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

26
12 Nerves of Rubber Trad 30m

Start: 6m right of OB. Slab, crack and pockets tending left. Slab to belay od for OB.

FA: M.Ellims, 1988

27
12 Blame it on Sarah Trad 40m

Start: 6m right of NoR. Crack to ledge and bush. Short wall to crack as for OB. 2 pitches.

FA: M.Ellims,V.Talon, 1988

28
16 Downright Left Trad 15m

Start: West side of the buttress. Down and right from 'Celeborn'. Right to left diagonal across roof capped wall. Then traverse.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

29

Start: 4m right of of DL. Crack to roof. Belay here or traverse right into chimney.

FA: M.Law, 1977

30
17 * Lemuria Trad 25m

Start: Obvious big, coloured off width roof right of LGC.

FA: J.Friend,W.Wilson, 1973

31
14 Elfin Trad 10m

Start: Inset corner at the back of the west facing gully. 20m right of L.

FA: J.Friend,W.Wilson, 1973

32
12 Thorin Trad 10m

Start: A few metres right from E. 'Layback' to roof.

FA: J.Friend,W.Wilson, 1973

33
19 ** lefty Unknown 20m
34
19 Small Pox Wall Trad 25m

Start: Up gully from Goog Gap. Skirt left at the top of the gully to the obvious NORTH facing wall. Directly above 'Cirdan'. Wall to break, overlap and up.

FA: P.Bayne,M.Colyvan, 1988

35
20 righty Unknown 25m
36
13 * Tanner's Leap Trad 20m

The original line to the summit.

Start: On the South of Evans Crown. Chimney between the Crown and boulder, across gap and up.

FA: D.Tanner, 1971

37
14 * Flog a Dog Trad 20m

Start: Opposite from TL. Traverse break, then chimney/offwidth.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

38

Start: Right end of short boulder adjacent to the Crown.

FA: A.Stewart, 1977

39
15 * Dyke Unknown 20m, 3
40
25 * ? Unknown 30m
41
21 Y? Unknown 20m
42
17 Unknown Six Unknown 20m

FA: Unknown

43
15 SB#1 Unknown 18m

FA: Steve Babka

44
16 SB#2 Unknown 18m

FA: Steve Babka

45
21 SB#3 Unknown 18m

FA: Steve Babka