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Description

Spread out on the ridge are quite a few boulders, some large. A few are individually named, such as Shark Fin Boulder, Split Cwym Boulder and the Neurone Circuit - itself a collection of fairly large boulders almost directly due west from Goog Gap, and which offers most potential for routes.

© (mjw)

Access issues

Descent from many of these boulders may be problematic unless there is a BB. Counterbalance rapping off either side is the method used by some climbers in the past...

© (mjw)

Ethic inherited from Evans Crown Tarana

Given the restrictions on new routes, brushing and bolting, new route activity is limited to trad climbing, and the easy lines (and the hard ones!) have long ago been developed, for the most part. The casual visitor is probably advised to stick to the established climbs, there are plenty to go around. Many climbs in this guide are listed as "Sport" in that they are bolted climbs with no natural gear required (or available) - many of these are truly "sporting" with old-school runouts. Some of the "Trad" climbs have little or no protection, and were soloed on FA. Please be careful - top roping is often possible and often the only way to adequately protect a route.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
15 * Shark Fin Special Trad 12m

Shark Fin Boulder is an oddly-shaped, clean-edged boulder, located between the Crown and Split Cwym Boulder.

Up the obvious slabby arete. No protection. FA Joe Friend (solo)

FA: J.Friend, 1977

2
16 R * Split Cwym Boulder Trad 15m

Start: Prominent tall boulder west of the Crown, which is split by a widening chimney. "Like butterfly wings reaching up for the sky". Chimney as far as you can go, then arete of the west half of the boulder.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

3
18 R Spinster Crack Trad 8m

Start: Start on Deckout Buttress side of the large rock on which SC boulder rests. Up obvious and rather dusty crack with poor nut pro to finish on platform at base of Split Cwym Boulder

FA: D.Taylor, G.de Lacy & B.Stevens, 1989

4
24 ** Stairway to Heaven Sport 8m

Short but pleasant climb. On right inside the SC boulder. 2m left of arete - up past some BR

FA: B.Stevens, G.de Lacy & D.Taylor, 1989

5
25 ** The Pain, The Pain Sport 8m

Start: 3m left of StH. Go for 2 small finger holds, a smear, a high step, then straight up - no bridging or cheating stones at the start!

FA: G.de Lacy & B.Stevens, 1989

6
23 * High-rise Wombat Trad 18m

Combines a hard start, nice rest, and one of the most delicate and holdless finishes at Tarana. Spot the Brain Cell takes the E face of a large square block - this route takes the North face. Scramble up ledges to large rock platform to access or abseil in. Start 3m right of the corner. Step off small boulder, up wall past 4BR and the large 'wombat hole' in the rock.

FA: D.Taylor, G.de Lacy & B.Stevens, 1989

7
24 ** The Art of Suffering Mixed 15m, 5

Start: 2m right of 'Spot the Brain Cell'. Take wires! Up to BR, then traverse left almost to arete. Up veering very slightly L. 5BR, 2 of which require wires.

FA: B.Stevens, G.de lacy & D.Taylor, 1990

8

Start: Right to left curving crack in the middle of circular group of boulders called the 'Neurone Circuit'. Faces east. Follow crack to top. New BB (1990)

FA: M.Law & J.Friend, 1977

9

Start: 4m right of Maverick. Fingery & technical up to small ledge, trend right from here past 4BR with FH.

FA: G.de Lacy, B.Stevens & D.Taylor, 1988

10
21 * Maverick Trad 18m

Good technical face climb. Left of StBC on north side of boulder with a tree leaning against its E side. Straight up wall on good holds past 4 BRs to BB.

FA: J.Smoothy & C.Cuthbertson, 1987

11
22 * Men of Vision Trad 12m

Start: 2m left of Maverick. Climb up to undercling and surmount this on poor holds to gain a good hold up & R. Straight up to delicate finish.

FA: D.Taylor & G.de Lacy.B.Stevens, 1989

12
15 Fair Go Trad 20m

Start: The middle of 3 cracks side by side on the west side of the 'Neurone Circut'.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

13
20 Creeping Jesus Aid 30m
14
18 Gross Motor Unknown 10m
15
18 Crackmaster Crack Unknown 25m
16
16 Rejector Unknown 20m

Activity

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