Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Sat 16th Mar 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Great little crack with almost every size cam. Had a little fall at the bulge.
Bring doubles of 4s and 5s for the top.
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Tue 5th Mar 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with Haily | 35m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
To finish went straight up the groove, placed two bits in the average crack and belayed off a small tree, poxy bush and average cam. Just didn't feel like following more bolts up the arete. Was this the original sortie naturelle?
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14 ~15 | ★ Sitting Pretty - with Haily | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Following Haily's able onsight
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17 ~16 | ★ Blue Train - with Haily | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Following Haily's able onsight
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Sun 11th Feb 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★ Jagusch Putsch | 30m, 4 | Average | ||||
Could not crack the start so came in from HdL and took a couple of rests at thr crux.
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23 | Hotel du Lac | 30m, 4 | Average | ||||
Dunno how Andrew did it but dogged thru the crux in the manner Jeff indicated, which seemed quite unsatisfactory
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17 ~16 | ★ Blue Train | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
17 ~16 | ★ Blue Train | 20m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Yes it is several grades easier than it's neighbour
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21 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | Average | ||||
Just held a slipped foot and avoided hanging on the arete for a spicier finish, aided but not abetted by the thin red line.
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21 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | Average | ||||
Expected to find repudiation in place of redemption but not.
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack - with Peter Melouney | 15m | |||||
Great to see the thrutchmaster in action sending this bloody thing. Hang dogged the crap out of it with absolutely no dignity.
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Peter Melouney | 25m, 6 | |||||
Struggled hard and retreated. The sharp crimps were destryong my fingers as well as my poor toes, disappointed.
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Peter Melouney | 25m, 6 | |||||
At least can claim top rope revenge! Felt pretty sustained the all way.
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers - with Peter Melouney | 28m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - with Peter Melouney | 28m | |||||
20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - with Peter Melouney | 28m | |||||
18 | ★★★ Fuzzy Navel - with Peter Melouney | 75m | |||||
Super fun slab, a bit run out on top but relatively easy climbing
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Sun 28th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | |||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | |||||
First attenpt on top rope to gain slabfidence
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Friction suddenly blew up, slipped off then had to struggle to stay on.
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Clean first shot
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20 ~21 | ★ Mortal Combat | 18m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Aided thru crux then clean, at least 2 grades harder than Bloodbath. Start could be dyno.
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19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Almost slipping off
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Aurora Pandora | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sharp crimps.
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21 Hard | ★★ Chain Mail Crack - with Aurora Pandora | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Stoked to get this clean. Had to fight big time.
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Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
18 Easy | ★★★ Fuzzy Navel - with Aurora Pandora | 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Done as a long single pitch. Awesome line 👌
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20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - with Aurora Pandora | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Real good slabbing
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21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers - with Aurora Pandora | 28m | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 27th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 ~19 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Aurora Pandora | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Mountains was a bit misty/foggy/rainy but evans delivered again with beautiful dry granite slabbing for the day. Nice warmup
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Sun 14th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots — 2 attempts | 25m, 6 | |||||
There are curently 8 bolts for the route and 2 for the anchor. Not sure if this route has recently been retro-bolted but the route is a mixture of rusted bolts on SMC hangers, and new stainless bolts on Madrock hangers.
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Sun 7th Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | Average | ||||
A giant dog - what a bog!
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18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block - with Jeff Boyton | 33m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Delicate start then super-highstep. Sport climbers will be stick-clipping in droves.
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16 | ★ Optem Bop - with Jeff Boyton | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
High step, grade not much different from neighbour
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18 | ★ Jika Jika - with Jeff Boyton | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
A bit humid
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14 ~15 | ★ Sitting Pretty - with Jeff Boyton | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Smeary slabbiness on cooling rock
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Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Graham Dowden | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice edge slabbing. Few sharp crimpy holds but rather trust the feet. If you enjoyed this definitely get on Six Days on the Toad around the corner.
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21 Hard | ★★ Chain Mail Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After a day of excellent slabbing figured we finish it off with a fist crack. Start is strenuous and burly but it eases off once you got good feet. Will be back to try this again.
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20 ~19 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Graham Dowden | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Good edge slabbing.
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19 | ★ Greenies' Delight | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
First top rope solo.
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Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
18 Easy | ★★★ Fuzzy Navel | 75m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Wasn't quite sure where the start was but picked the cleaniest crack+slab line that'd get us up to a DBB just right of a gorgeous slabby arete which I assumed was P2. Great slabbing on P2, all FHs but bring 2 plates for top.
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20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - with Graham Dowden | 28m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fantastic slabbing. No trad gear required. Favourite climb of the day.
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20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - with Haily, Peter Melouney | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Surprised myself to be able to follow Mr M's excellent onsight.
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Mon 1st Jan 2024 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Haily, Peter Melouney | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Despite having last year clocked up just under 61,000m of vertical ascent (up stairs and bush trails, sadly not rock climbs) the mental rigours of slab climbing seemed to benefit little from aerobic or indeed physical capacity. After several strained moments staring at a pathetic indentation or crystal flake wondering if it could hold a foot or other appendage, one generally retires, shattered, with a well-worn mantra pounding through an overloaded frontal cortex: "These slabs are definitely doing my head in".
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Haily | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Far easier in the sticky Mad Rocks.
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Haily | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
In the new blue Salewa approach shoes for NYD, which, thanks to the innovative Switchfit system and Pomoca sole, permitted a relative upgrade from 19 to 20, toprope notwithstanding.
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Wed 27th Dec 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | |||||
Mossy choosy wet slabby adventure
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★★ Spare the Hammer | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Very nice slabbing
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Wed 6th Dec 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Boytons et al | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Like the proverbial possums up a pole
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20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Boytons et al | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Definitely easier than the two on the right because of the more definite edges
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19 | ★ Greenies' Delight — 2 attempts - with Boytons et al | 15m, 5 | Average | ||||
Tenuosity amid the lichen.
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19 | ★ Jonestown - with Boytons et al | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Smears ...
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Sat 28th Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 Hard | ★★ Chain Mail Crack | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Real good
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21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Abi Prakash, Angela Ha, Mali W, nick, margot | 25m, 6 | |||||
18 | ★ Splat - with Abi Prakash, Angela Ha, Mali W, nick, margot | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders - with Abi Prakash, Angela Ha, Mali W, nick, margot | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 14th Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
15 | ★ Les Grandes Courses - with zachary vertrees, Nigel | 10m | ★ Good | ||||
Maybe La Petite Course would be more appropriate… though it is grand with a little bit of almost every crack size in its short length… Stout start that quickly eases, good fun …
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Sat 7th Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
The West Side Ridge | |||||||
19 | ★★ Spot the Brain Cell - with zachary vertrees | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Didn’t spot it …?? Definitely licheny and somewhat hard at the grade because of that … quite the task for my feet… bit of rope weirdness saw me not wanting to take a pendulum fall at the crux after cleaning final gear … Almost pitched off but managed to grab rope and use a 2 second tension move to avoid catastrophe before thrutching to glory …
Would be quite different if you could see more of the rock when necessary…
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16 R | ★ Split Cwym Boulder - with zachary vertrees | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | ||||
Probably not the best for people with dodgy ankles or feet.. but really quite challenging fun… still a bit put off by potential pendulum falls but managed to avoid it …. Really lichened top out …
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Mon 2nd Oct 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★ Jailbreak from H-Block | 33m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nice slabbing. Runouts are not that bad on this one. Definitely easier than Jika Jika
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18 | ★ Jika Jika | 30m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
took a couple of falls at the first bolt looking for the non existent footholds. Very relieving jug just before the second bolt. Nice introduction to granite
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17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
lovely climbing. Cruxy moves coming over the bulge. Climbed this to access the top of the crag. Watched the sun set up there and was beautiful. This is a sport climb with some carrots and some fixed hangers. Dont know why its listed as trad
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Sat 30th Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★★ Up the Nose of Love - with jonah ovadia | 35m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots - with Brendan Coulter, Rachael Brock | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Good to climb this one after getting rained off belaying Paul on it a couple of years ago! Great sustained slabbing.
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21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack - with Brendan Coulter | 15m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
After faffing around with gear and moves off the belay, made it up after pulling on for real. Had me puffing, glad to have the leather crack gloves. Good example of thuggy widish crack style.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers - with Brendan Coulter, Rachael Brock | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Lots of nice little holds in a nice angle!
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Dr Marten's Boots | 25m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
One hell of a remind on how to climb slab. Maybe should have started on something a little more chill to remember my shoes work
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21 | ★★ Chain Mail Crack | 15m | ★ Good | ||||
Not bad if you’re into that kind of thing.
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Sat 2nd Sep 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
18 Easy | ★★★ Fuzzy Navel | 75m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Absolutely epic, must do. Goes in 1 pitch on a trimmed 70.
Thought we were on bilbo doing the left variant (didn’t really read well, just went for the best looking line). A lot of concern about running out of rope, but we made it. |
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20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Nowhere near as hard as it looks, super fun. Probably should be marked as a sport, the only gear is very optional
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21 | ★★ God Help the Hash House Harriers | 28m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Last route for the day, more quality slabbing.
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Sun 27th Aug 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★ Bad to the Bone | 20m, 6 | Average | ||||
Definitely easier than Jagusch Putsch and a few too many bolts. Wrong shoes.
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23 | Hotel du Lac | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Came looking for a hard slab project but shut down and had to aid thru perplexing definite non-slab crux. Several bomber small-med cams in lower crack, bolts at and beyond crux, then two 20ft leadouts up grade 10-12 lichen slab between rusty carrots. Definitely happy days.
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21 | ★ Jagusch Putsch | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Three grade 21 cruxes at each of 3 lower bolts, much harder than 'Bad to the Bone'. Upper low angle groove has places for probably offset RPs and one <10mm cam. Stick-clip lower FH at 5m or leave the whole thing to lichen. No wonder the punters are avoiding this in droves.
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16 | ★ SB#2 | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Finally something clean in the goofy shoes.
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21 | SB#3 | 5m, 2 | Average | ||||
Pulled thru first move, some kind of campus rockover. Rest much like the others.
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
20 | ★★★ Six Days on the Toad - with Liv | 28m | ★★★ Mega Classic | ||||
Utterly gripping. Felt safe once I clipped the anchor.
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20 | ★★ Rene's Ethical Neutrality - with Liv | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Really liked this one. Climbed the route to the left first (21-ish?) and equipped some long slings on the bolts to reduce runouts. Two or three grades easier than Six Days on the Toad
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Sun 30th Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath - with Liv | 15m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Rpt, really nice
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19 ~18 | ★ Jonestown - with Liv | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Much better than scuds, or did I think that because it was easier??
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18 | ★ Scuds over Saudi - with Liv | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
A rude welcome back to tarana. A healthy runout + small footers + no holds = fear
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★ Jagusch Putsch | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
Shoe testing session. I imagine this would be pretty gripping on lead.
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23 | Hotel du Lac | 30m, 4 | Average | ||||
Failed to do the crux despite many attempts, lol. Slabs.
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Sun 2nd Jul 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
20 | ★★ Bloodbath | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Shoe testing session. Liked this one.
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19 | ★ Jonestown | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Shoe testing session.
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21 | ★★ Dick Whittington | 15m, 2 | ★ Good | ||||
Shoe testing session.
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17 | ★ Kersplat | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | ||||
Shoe testing session.
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Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
13 | ★ Tanner's Leap - with Keira McLoskey | 20m | |||||
Sat 24th Jun 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
14 | ★ Passionate Pleasantries - with Keira McLoskey, Jarrah | 30m | |||||
Sat 3rd Jun 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Crown Buttress | |||||||
16 | ★ Optem Bop | 30m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Tricky highstep over bulge
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18 | ★ Jika Jika | 30m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
14 ~15 | ★ Sitting Pretty | 20m, 5 | ★ Good | ||||
Sat 27th May 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Deckout Buttress | |||||||
17 | ★ Space Invaders | 20m, 4 | |||||
Trivial
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19 | ★ Madonnas | 15m | |||||
I was disappointed. Expected hard, spicy, lichen slab, with questionable bolts. Got trivial slabbing with more bolts than necessary.
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19 | Save the Whale | 10m, 1 | |||||
A few goes to get the start, then cruisey
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13 | Deft | 8m | |||||
Quite nice, less lichen on this one
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12 | Blunt Stick | 8m | |||||
Nice
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Sat 13th May 2023 - Evans Crown | |||||||
Googolplex Crag | |||||||
22 | ★★ Laughing Boy Morris | 55m, 9 |