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Table of contents

1. Evans Crown Tarana 131 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Trad, Sport and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.924886, -33.548850

Unique Features And Strengths:

Granite in the Blueys?

Access Issues:

Evans Crown Tarana is a Nature Reserve so when climbing please keep your impact to a minimum so that NPWS doesn't ban climbing.

Approach:

From Sydney drive over the Blueys towards Lithgow and hang a left onto Rydal Road towards Lake Lyell. You'll eventually hit a T-intersection. Turn right and then left almost immediately onto Sodswalls-Tarana Rd - follow this for about 10 clicks until you hit Honeysuckle Falls Road - a dirt road.

About 1.5k up the road there's a small parking area in front of a "Evans Crown Nature Reserve" sign.

Head up the track for about 15 minutes until you bump into Deckout Buttress.

Ethic:

National Parks and Wildlife Service have requested the following:

Contact Bathurst district NPWS before climbing

No new routes to be developed

No cleaning of rock faces

No camping or fires within the reserve

No use of bolts, fixtures or identifying routes with paint

History:

Dave Tanner an old climbing partner of John Ewbank visited Tarana in 1971.

Joe Friend put up a bunch of routes in late 70s after which it lay dormant until 1987 when Crunch (John Smoothy) and Mark Colyvan went nuts and put up heaps of stuff.

Most activity ceased around the end of 1989.

1.1. Deckout Buttress 32 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad and Sport

Long/Lat: 149.926424, -33.541732

Description:

A great little warm up wall with new lower offs and short well protected climbing. Something for everyone (if you like slabs).

The first wall you come to and nicely shaded.

Many of the starts were marked but time and lichen has obscured them all.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Blunt Stick

Start: 4m right of 'Lipstick'. The far right of the crag.

FA: A.Jones,A.Farquar,G.Williams, 1990

12 Trad 8m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Lipstick

Start: Below the overlap.

Two pitons. Desperate start for a 14.

Belay from cams in break.

FA: J.Anderson,J.Cowmeadow, 1988

14 Mixed 8m, 2
3 Deft

Start: About 2m left of L. Lichenous slab.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

13 Trad 8m
4 Vegetarian Special

Start: 1 to 2m left of previous route.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

16 Trad 8m
5 Save the Whale

Done originally without the bolt!

Start: 2m left of VS.

Belay from cams in break.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

19 Mixed 10m, 1
6 Pass the Lentils

Original without the bolts!

Start: Marked. 2m left of StW.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

17 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
7 * Madonnas

Start: Marked. 3m right of 'Splat' at prickly tree.

FA: J.Smoothy,D.Huber, 1987

19 Trad 15m
8 * Space Invaders

Start: 1m right of 'Splat'.

DBB at top.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

17 Sport 20m, 4
9 * Splat

Start: 5m right of 'Kersplat'. Good Slab. No pro.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1987

18 Trad 15m
10 ** The Straight and Narrow

Start: Slab between S and HI.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

18 Trad 20m
11 Herd Instinct

Original without bolts.

FA: M.Myers, 1988

17 Trad 15m
12 Kersplat

Start: 10m up hill right of the corner of TtLG.

FA: J.Smoothy,L.McManus,M.Stacey, 1987

17 Sport 15m
13 You Can't Keep a Good Man Down

Start: Chimney at the back of the terrace above 'Kersplat'. No pro.

FA: J.Friend?, 1977

14 Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
14 * Dick Whittington

Start: 2m right of K.

FA: A.Penney, 1989

21 Trad 15m
15 ** Spare the Hammer

Original without bolts.

Start: 2m left of DW.

Chains at top.

FA: D.Grey, 1988

19 Sport 15m
16 * Mortal Combat

Start: 1m right of TtLG. Desperate bouldery start off the blocks.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

20 Sport 18m, 3
17 * The 99 Route.

I gave it this name as it has a flake in it. It was in the guide with a question mark for the name, which seemed a shame for a good climb. Climb the left hand end of the upper deckout buttress past a hollow flake.

19 Sport 15m, 4
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
18 Through the Looking Glass

Corner to roofs, across to squeeze chimney. Big Gear!

Start: Obvious corner in the middle of the slabs.

FA: J.Friend,A.Stewart, 1976

14 Trad 30m
19 * Jonestown

Start: 1m left of TtLG.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones,B.Sheerer., 1989

19 Sport 15m, 3
20 * Greenies' Delight

Original without bolts.

Start: 0.5m left of GD, line of new carrots just right of the short seam.

FA: D.Grey, 1987

19 Sport 15m, 2
21 ** Bloodbath

Start: Water streak 2m left of TtLG. Up to chain.

FA: M.Colyvan,J.Smoothy, 1987

20 Sport 15m, 4
22 * Polkagris

Head up past a few pockets. The carrots stick out for miles.

Belay from crack at top (4 Camalot) or use the chains on Bloodbath.

FA: C-J,Jagusch,A.Penney, 1989

21 Mixed 15m, 4
23 Sudden Impact

Start: 3m left of 'Bloodbath'.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury,M.Colyvan, 1987

21 Trad 15m
24 Chain Mail Crack

Overhanging fist crack.

Start: Obvious crack starting on the terrace above 'Sudden Impact'.

FA: M.Law, 1976

21 Trad 15m
25 * Scabby Lizards

Start: 3m left again. Slab and small overlap.

FA: S.Camps,J.Smoothy, 1987

21 R Trad 20m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 ** Dr Marten's Boots

Start: 5m down and left of SL. Up to chain.

FA: G.Bradbury,M.Colyvan,F.Lumsden,J.Smoothy, 1987

21 Sport 25m, 6
27 * The Owl and the Pussycat

Sustained, steep slab.

Start: 4m left of DMB.

FA: A.Penney,CJ Jagusch, 1989

21 Sport 23m, 5
28 ** Roller Disco

Start: Marked. 7m down and left of DMB.

FA: G.Bradbury,M.Colyvan,J.Smoothy, 1987

23 Sport 30m
29 That's Dancin'

Start: 3m left of RD.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

21 R Trad 34m
30 Gandalf's Chimney

Start: Originally 2 pitches. Better to do it in one.

FA: B.Douglas,I.Baker,C.Brown, 1973

12 Trad 35m
31 Police Presence

Boulder problem to arete.

Start: On boulder 50m NW of the buttress. Start 2m right of the SW facing corner.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

25 Trad 14m
32 Arboretum

Sustained.

Start: West arete of boulder approx 120m W of the buttress.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1989

23 Trad 18m

1.2. Googolplex Crag 33 routes in Area

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 149.926640, -33.542501

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mr Bubbles

Start: Near the top of the Coffin Hole 'Gully', about 10m right of 'Field Commander Jagusch'.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

20 Trad 25m
2 ** Saddam's Black Heart

Start: 1 - 2m left of MB. Block on right edge of slab. Step left onto slab.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

19 Trad 30m
3 Field Commander Jagusch

Start: 1m right of REN.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones,M.Newberry, 1990

20 Trad 35m
4 Rene's Ethical Neutrality

Start: 4m right of GHtHHH. Up and over bulge, up face right of prominent groove.

FA: R.Stiles,M.King, 1989

20 Trad 35m
5 Bilbo Baggins Direct Start 21 Unknown 10m
6 * God Help the Hash House Harriers

Start: 2m right of SDotT. Short slab, across 2001BB, up.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones,S.Pierce, 1989

21 Trad 35m
7 *** Six Days on the Toad

Start: Scramble up the Coffin Hole to the top of a large boulder Belay Bolt. Straight up slab to the diagonal. Straight up again.

FA: M.Colyvan,J.Smoothy, 1987

20 Trad 45m
8 ** Laughing Boy Morris

Start: 2m right of TOfE. 2 pitches.

FA: A.Penney,CJ.Jagusch, 1989

22 Sport 55m
9 * Occam's Razor Antithesis / Retreat from Retreat from Moscow

Finish Retreat from Moscow by traversing to the far righthand end of the belay slab, equalising the fixed hanger on LBM and a manky 6mm carrot 2m left. Continue heading up and right along a slowly narrowing groove (2001BB) which eventually becomes an overlap and thin seam, clipping bolts on SDOTT, GHtHHH and REN and supplementing with cams (#1 BD, #3 BD) and a Mid-sized hex. When the grove widens and breaks upwards into unprotected vertical climbing, continue right past REN to the next major line of bolts (FCJ), and continue up this to finish (supplement with slinging bomber flake, and slinging shrub). Belay bolts well back from edge.

May not be a first ascent, but was done as a safe way of retreating from Escape from Moscow, avoiding any of the more committing climbs above, and with minimal gear. Despite the length and wandery nature of this climb, rope-drag was not a problem.

FA: P. Thomson (L) and A. Cummings (S)., 2012

19 Trad 45m
10 * This One's for Evelyn

Start: Marked. 10m right of 2001BB.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1987

22 Trad 25m
11 * 2001 Bilbo Baggins

1).Slab with finger pocket to crack, up to ramp.2).Right up ramp to groove and straight up.

Start: Obvious crack leading to diagonal ramp.

FA: M.Law,J.Friend,B.Ewald, 1976

18 Trad 65m
12 * Desperately Seeking Evan

White Slab.

Start: As for 2001BB. Crack until it curves right. Left onto slab and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury, 1987

20 Trad 25m
13 * Finger Tight

Start: On the terrace where DSE ends. Can rap in from the top of SDotT. Straight up.

FA: P.Colyvan,G.Robbins, 1988

23 Trad 30m
14 * Retreat from Moscow

Start: 3m left of 2001BB on top of log.

FA: A.Penney,B.Scheerer, 1989

21 Sport 25m
15 * Shelf Life

Hanging arete.

Start: Rap in from top of buttress between FN and SDotT.

FA: P.Bayne,M.Colyvan, 1988

21 Trad 30m
16 *** Fuzzy Navel

Start: Thin crack 2m right of TH.

  1. 30m (18) Up crack and wall to wider crack. Belay in the groove from chockstone and and number 4 cam plus more gear around another chockstone further up the groove.

  2. 45m (18) Step left to arete and up as for TH. Then on up the arete.

FA: P.Bayne,D.Haines,J.Monaghan,M.Colyvan, 1988

18 Trad 75m 2
17 * Rubber Nuns

Good, hard slab climbing!

Start: Step right 1.5m from the belay of 'The Howling'. Brushed strip to bulge, over this to stance and up.

FA: P.Colyvan, 1989

26 Trad 35m
18 *** The Howling

Classic!

Start: Marked. 10m left of 2001BB. Thin right leaning diagonal crack. Up crack to better crack and up to tree. Left to arete and up. Traverse down and left along ramp to belay. Right side of arete and up.

Please note that the climb has gone back to nature and is unclimbable. Pity

FA: G.Robertson,M.Colyvan, 1987

23 Trad 85m
19 Bonsai D-lite

Start: 12 left of TH. Slab and up chimney.

FA: J.Friend,Palmer, 1977

18 Trad 55m
20 ** Mr Sheen

Sustained and delicate.

Start: 2m left of BD.

FA: G.de Lacy,A.Schnarbel,B.Stevens,D.Taylor, 1988

23 Trad 50m
21 * Twitching for Jesus

Start: 25m left of TH.

FA: M.Law,G.Robertson, 1988

24 Trad 35m
22 * A Ticklish Affair

1).Up to bolt. Straight up wall to ledge. 2).Up corner and then right to 'Mr Sheen' belay 3). finish up MS.

Start: As for TfJ. 3 pitches.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1988

24 Trad 40m
23 * Thrashing the Mullet Gun

Start: Thin open corner 5m left of ATA. Up corner to pockets then slab to finish.

FA: M.Stacey,F.Moon, 1989

22 Trad 25m
24 * Feanor

Start: 20 left of BD. 2 pitches. Crack to roofs, right to chimney and up.

FA: J.Friend,P.Blackwood,B.Wilson, 1973

13 Trad 60m
25 Reflections

Start: Boulder opposite the curving, smooth wall anf left of 'Feanor'. Low angled corner.

FA: J.Friend, 1970

10 Trad 10m
26 * Ice

Start: On boulder left of R. Step off boulder onto slab. Diagonally left for pro, then up right to belay at trees.

FA: M.Law, 1988

23 Trad 10m
27 * Passionate Pleasantries

Right onto slab to ledge. Short crack then across to the mainland.

Start: Up left from the big, curving wall on some boulders right of a gully. 2 pitches.

FA: J.Monaghan,F.Lumsden, 1988

14 Trad 30m
28 * Belly Acres

Start: Middle of the wall left and at right angle to PP. Stick clip. Up to flake and up.

FA: J.Smoothy,G.Bradbury,M.Colyvan, 1987

23 Trad 10m
29 Parallelsogood

Start: Obvious squeeze chimney on the western side of Goog Gap.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

16 Trad 15m
30 Kazad Dum

Start: 4m left of P. Off width crack for 4m then right.

FA: R.Reynolds, 1988

20 Trad 10m
31 White Wizard

Once a test piece. Take big friends!

Start: 30m left of P in quiet gully. Right left diagonal corner under overhang, across coloured slab to ledge.

FA: M.Law, 1976

18 Trad 10m
32 Crystal Cavern 17 Unknown 25m
33 Bilbo Baggins DS.

Start: Cairn 2m right of GHtHHH. Join top crack of 2001BB.

FA: Unknown, 1990

21 Trad 10m

1.3. Crown Buttress 45 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and Sport

Long/Lat: 149.925748, -33.543482

Description:© (mjw)

This is Evans Crown. The highest point in the area.

Approach:© (mjw)

South of Goog Gap - the flat gully separating Googolplex and 'Crown Buttress'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Born Crazy

Start: Left arete of 'Shagrat'. As for S then crack to arete and up.

FA: M.Law,A.Penney, 1977

20 R Trad 70m
2 * Shagrat

Start: Left gully on the main part of the east face.

FA: J.Friend (solo), 1973

7 R Trad 65m
3 * Your Neighbourhood Bolter

Start: 3m left of Barry Dur. Up to chain on Barry Dur.

FA: J.Fletcher,F.Lumsden, 1988

17 Sport 25m
4 * Barry Door

Start: 2m left of 'Barad Dur'. 'Arete' to join BD at lip of roof. Left to chain.

FA: M.Law,J.Fletcher, 1988

19 Sport 25m
5 * Barad Dur

Originally done with a couple of points of aid. Joe Friend freed this in 1975 and added the last pitch.

Start: In the lelt side of Gorbag's 'Gully'. Cracks to roof, left through roof and up to belay. 2 & 3). Cracks, seam and slab to ledge. 4). Overhanging crack.

FFA: J.Friend

FA: (FA:R.Douglas,D.Tanner), 1973

18 Trad 75m
6 Gorbag

Start: The gully right side. 10m up and right from 'Shagrat'.

FA: J.Friend, 1973

8 Trad 70m
7 Spouse

Start: 5 or 6m down left of SoH. Buttress then right into SoH.

FA: M.Law, 1988

26 Trad 49m
8 * Sea of Heartbreak

Start: 'Diagonal' Off width on left wall of 'Walloper'. Stick clip, up offwidth, traverse left then up dyke to belay.

FA: M.Colyvan,P.Bayne, 1988

22 Trad 35m
9 No Love Lost

Start: AS for SoH. Off width all the way.

FA: M.Colyvan,G.Moore, 1988

21 Trad 35m
10 Walloper

Start: Marked. Big chimney in the square cut gully down and left of Goog Gap.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

17 Trad 35m
11 * High Moral Ground

Start: Cairn left side of the rib 5m right of SoH.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

22 Trad 33m
12 * Blue Train

Start: Short wall and arete.

FA: M.Myers,M.Ellims,D.Haines, 1988

17 Trad 30m
13 Cirdan

Start: Marked. Groove about 6m above the ground on the right in Goog Gap. Slab to groove and up.

FA: Wilson,Hatherly, 1974

13 Trad 20m
14 ** Unkown Four

FA: Unknown

21 Unknown 20m
15 * Unknown Five

FA: Unknown

15 Unknown 20m
16 Hotel du Lac

Start: 10m right of Goog 'Gully'. Slab to crack,groove to bulge. Groove and up.

FA: A.Penney, 1990

23 Trad 30m
17 * Jagusch Putsch

Start: Up right groove 10m left of 'Celeborn'. Take wires.

FA: A.Jones,S.Johnstone, 1989

20 Trad 30m
18 Bury Me Deep in Love

Start: 20m left of 'Celeborn'.

FA: D.Haines,S.Thompson, 1988

23 Trad 25m
19 Rap Station Zebra

Start: 4m left of C. Slab across UtNoL to low angled groove/ramp and up.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

21 R Trad 30m
20 *** Up the Nose of Love

Start: As for C. Left to dyke, water smear over bulge. left up wall to ledge at 3rd bolt. Finish as for BMDiL.

FA: M.Myers,S.Hutley, 1988

17 Trad 35m
21 * Celeborn

Start: Marked. Slab and groove to crack.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

17 R Trad 25m
22 ** Honey, I Shrunk the Kids

Start: 1m right of Celeborn. Slab and overlap to ledge.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

21 Sport 25m, 4
23 Jika Jika

Start: 5m right of Honey, I Shrunk the Kids.

Up past 3 fixed hangers and a carrot to rap station.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

18 Sport 30m, 4
24 Optem Bop

Start: 10m right of C. Middle of face to bulge, up slab to join NoR.

FA: M.Ellims,M.Myers, 1988

16 Sport 30m
25 * Jailbreak from H-Block

Start: A few metres right of Optem Bop.

Up past fixed hangers to rap station.

FA: A.Penney,A.Jones, 1990

18 Sport 33m, 4
26 Nerves of Rubber

Start: 6m right of OB. Slab, crack and pockets tending left. Slab to belay od for OB.

FA: M.Ellims, 1988

12 Trad 30m
27 Blame it on Sarah

Start: 6m right of NoR. Crack to ledge and bush. Short wall to crack as for OB. 2 pitches.

FA: M.Ellims,V.Talon, 1988

12 Trad 40m
28 Downright Left

Start: West side of the buttress. Down and right from 'Celeborn'. Right to left diagonal across roof capped wall. Then traverse.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

16 Trad 15m
29 Les Grandes Courses

Start: 4m right of of DL. Crack to roof. Belay here or traverse right into chimney.

FA: M.Law, 1977

15 Trad 10m
30 * Lemuria

Start: Obvious big, coloured off width roof right of LGC.

FA: J.Friend,W.Wilson, 1973

17 Trad 25m
31 Elfin

Start: Inset corner at the back of the west facing gully. 20m right of L.

FA: J.Friend,W.Wilson, 1973

14 Trad 10m
32 Thorin

Start: A few metres right from E. 'Layback' to roof.

FA: J.Friend,W.Wilson, 1973

12 Trad 10m
33 ** lefty 19 Unknown 20m
34 Small Pox Wall

Start: Up gully from Goog Gap. Skirt left at the top of the gully to the obvious NORTH facing wall. Directly above 'Cirdan'. Wall to break, overlap and up.

FA: P.Bayne,M.Colyvan, 1988

19 Trad 25m
35 righty 20 Unknown 25m
36 * Tanner's Leap

The original line to the summit.

Start: On the South of Evans Crown. Chimney between the Crown and boulder, across gap and up.

FA: D.Tanner, 1971

13 Trad 20m
37 * Flog a Dog

Start: Opposite from TL. Traverse break, then chimney/offwidth.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

14 Trad 20m
38 Great Caesar's Ghost

Start: Right end of short boulder adjacent to the Crown.

FA: A.Stewart, 1977

16 Trad 8m
39 * Dyke 15 Unknown 20m, 3
40 * ? 25 Unknown 30m
41 Y? 21 Unknown 20m
42 Unknown Six

FA: Unknown

17 Unknown 20m
43 SB#1

FA: Steve Babka

15 Unknown 18m
44 SB#2

FA: Steve Babka

16 Unknown 18m
45 SB#3

FA: Steve Babka

21 Unknown 18m

1.4. The Hamburger Stand 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad

Long/Lat: 149.925084, -33.544813

Approach:© (mjw)

Spectacular boulder south and about 50m down the ridge from Evans Crown.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Sorcerer's Apprentice

Start: On the south side. Take care getting off!

FA: J.Friend,M.Law, 1977

16 Trad 20m

1.5. The Devils Agates 3 routes in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (mjw)

Another 70m further south. The routes are mainly west facing.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Torthalm

Start: Chimney. Good pro. Left of 'Brain Savage'.

  1. 20m (21)

  2. -m (-)

FA: M.Law,K.Carrigan,H.Hodgkinson, 1976

13 Trad 20m 2
2 * Brain Savage

Start: Dominating line on the west side. Up to slab finish.

FA: M.Law, 1976

21 Trad 20m
3 Beorhtroth

Start: On the south side, right of BS. 3 way chimney.

FA: J.Friend, 1976

14 Trad 30m

1.6. The West Side Ridge 16 routes in Area

Summary:
Trad, Unknown and other styles

Long/Lat: 149.922680, -33.541948

Description:© (mjw)

A collection of fairly large boulders almost directly due west from Goog Gap.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 * Shark Fin Special

Start: Odd shaped clean edged boulder between the 'Crown' and 'Split Cwymn Boulder'. Slabby arete.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

15 R Trad 12m
2 * Split Cwym

Start: Prominent boulder west of the 'Crown'. "Like butterfly wings reaching up for the sky". Chimney as far as you can go, then arete and the west half of the boulder.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

16 R Trad 15m
3 Spinster Crack

Start: Obvious crack on large boulder on which SC rests.

FA: D.Taylor,G.de Lacy,B.Stevens, 1989

18 R Trad 8m
4 Stairway to Heaven

Start: On right inside the SC boulder. 2m left of arete.

FA: B.Stevens,G.de Lacy,D.Taylor, 1989

24 Sport 8m
5 The Pain, The Pain

Start: 3m left of StH. Dont cheat!!

FA: G.de Lacy,B.Stevens, 1989

25 Sport 8m
6 * High-rise Wombat

Start: North face of large square block. Scramble up ledges to large rock platform. 3m right of the corner. Off small boulder, up wall and 'wombat' hole.

FA: D.Taylor,G.de Lacy,B.Stevens, 1989

23 Trad 18m
7 The Art of Suffering

Start: 2m right of 'Spot the Brain Cell'. take wires!

FA: B.Stevens,G.de lacy,D.Taylor, 1990

24 Trad 15m
8 ** Spot the Brain Cell

Start: Right to left curving crack in the middle of circular group of boulders called the 'Neurone Circuit'. Faces east.

FA: M.Law,J.Friend, 1977

19 Trad 15m
9 * Ride of the Valkries

Start: 4m right of M. Up to small ledge, trend right from here.

FA: G.de Lacy,B.Stevens,D.Taylor, 1988

24 Trad 16m
10 * Maverick

Start: Left of StBC on north side of boulder with a tree leaning against it.

FA: J.Smoothy,C.Cuthbertson, 1987

21 Trad 18m
11 Men of Vision

Start: 2m left of M.

FA: D.Taylor,G.de Lacy.B.Stevens, 1989

22 Trad 12m
12 Fair Go

Start: The middle of 3 cracks on the west side of the 'Neurone Circut'.

FA: J.Friend, 1977

15 Trad 20m
13 Creeping Jesus 20 Aid 30m
14 Gross Motor 18 Unknown 10m
15 Crackmaster Crack 18 Unknown 25m
16 Rejector 16 Unknown 20m

1.7. The Northern Slabs 1 route in Area

Summary:
All Trad
Description:© (mjw)

Low angled slabs about 500m north of 'Deckout Buttress'.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Headache

Start: Slabby arete toward the left end.

FA: J.Friend, 1970

12 Trad 20m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
7 R * Shagrat Trad 65m 1.3. Crown Buttress
8 Gorbag Trad 70m 1.3. Crown Buttress
10 Reflections Trad 10m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
12 Blunt Stick Trad 8m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Gandalf's Chimney Trad 35m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Blame it on Sarah Trad 40m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Nerves of Rubber Trad 30m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Thorin Trad 10m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Headache Trad 20m 1.7. The Northern Slabs
13 Deft Trad 8m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Feanor Trad 60m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Cirdan Trad 20m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* Tanner's Leap Trad 20m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* Torthalm Trad 20m 2 1.5. The Devils Agates
14 Lipstick Mixed 8m, 2 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Through the Looking Glass Trad 30m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
You Can't Keep a Good Man Down Trad 15m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Passionate Pleasantries Trad 30m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Elfin Trad 10m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* Flog a Dog Trad 20m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Beorhtroth Trad 30m 1.5. The Devils Agates
15 * Dyke Unknown 20m, 3 1.3. Crown Buttress
Les Grandes Courses Trad 10m 1.3. Crown Buttress
SB#1 Unknown 18m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* Unknown Five Unknown 20m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Fair Go Trad 20m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
15 R * Shark Fin Special Trad 12m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
16 Vegetarian Special Trad 8m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Parallelsogood Trad 15m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Downright Left Trad 15m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Great Caesar's Ghost Trad 8m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Optem Bop Sport 30m 1.3. Crown Buttress
SB#2 Unknown 18m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Sorcerer's Apprentice Trad 20m 1.4. The Hamburger Stand
Rejector Unknown 20m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
16 R * Split Cwym Trad 15m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
17 Herd Instinct Trad 15m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Kersplat Sport 15m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Pass the Lentils Trad 12m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Space Invaders Sport 20m, 4 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Crystal Cavern Unknown 25m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Blue Train Trad 30m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* Lemuria Trad 25m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Unknown Six Unknown 20m 1.3. Crown Buttress
*** Up the Nose of Love Trad 35m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Walloper Trad 35m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* Your Neighbourhood Bolter Sport 25m 1.3. Crown Buttress
17 R * Celeborn Trad 25m 1.3. Crown Buttress
18 * Splat Trad 15m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
** The Straight and Narrow Trad 20m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* 2001 Bilbo Baggins Trad 65m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Bonsai D-lite Trad 55m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
*** Fuzzy Navel Trad 75m 2 1.2. Googolplex Crag
White Wizard Trad 10m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Barad Dur Trad 75m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* Jailbreak from H-Block Sport 33m, 4 1.3. Crown Buttress
Jika Jika Sport 30m, 4 1.3. Crown Buttress
Crackmaster Crack Unknown 25m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
Gross Motor Unknown 10m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
18 R Spinster Crack Trad 8m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
19 * Greenies' Delight Sport 15m, 2 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Jonestown Sport 15m, 3 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Madonnas Trad 15m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Save the Whale Mixed 10m, 1 1.1. Deckout Buttress
** Spare the Hammer Sport 15m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* The 99 Route. Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Occam's Razor Antithesis Trad 45m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
** Saddam's Black Heart Trad 30m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Barry Door Sport 25m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Small Pox Wall Trad 25m 1.3. Crown Buttress
** lefty Unknown 20m 1.3. Crown Buttress
** Spot the Brain Cell Trad 15m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
20 ** Bloodbath Sport 15m, 4 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Mortal Combat Sport 18m, 3 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Desperately Seeking Evan Trad 25m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Field Commander Jagusch Trad 35m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Kazad Dum Trad 10m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Mr Bubbles Trad 25m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Rene's Ethical Neutrality Trad 35m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
*** Six Days on the Toad Trad 45m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Jagusch Putsch Trad 30m 1.3. Crown Buttress
righty Unknown 25m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Creeping Jesus Aid 30m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
20 R * Born Crazy Trad 70m 1.3. Crown Buttress
21 Chain Mail Crack Trad 15m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Dick Whittington Trad 15m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
** Dr Marten's Boots Sport 25m, 6 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Polkagris Mixed 15m, 4 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Sudden Impact Trad 15m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* The Owl and the Pussycat Sport 23m, 5 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Bilbo Baggins DS. Trad 10m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Bilbo Baggins Direct Start Unknown 10m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* God Help the Hash House Harriers Trad 35m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Retreat from Moscow Sport 25m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Shelf Life Trad 30m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
** Honey, I Shrunk the Kids Sport 25m, 4 1.3. Crown Buttress
No Love Lost Trad 35m 1.3. Crown Buttress
SB#3 Unknown 18m 1.3. Crown Buttress
** Unkown Four Unknown 20m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Y? Unknown 20m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* Brain Savage Trad 20m 1.5. The Devils Agates
* Maverick Trad 18m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
21 R * Scabby Lizards Trad 20m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
That's Dancin' Trad 34m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
Rap Station Zebra Trad 30m 1.3. Crown Buttress
22 ** Laughing Boy Morris Sport 55m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* This One's for Evelyn Trad 25m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Thrashing the Mullet Gun Trad 25m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* High Moral Ground Trad 33m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* Sea of Heartbreak Trad 35m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Men of Vision Trad 12m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
23 Arboretum Trad 18m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
** Roller Disco Sport 30m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* Belly Acres Trad 10m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Finger Tight Trad 30m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Ice Trad 10m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
** Mr Sheen Trad 50m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
*** The Howling Trad 85m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Bury Me Deep in Love Trad 25m 1.3. Crown Buttress
Hotel du Lac Trad 30m 1.3. Crown Buttress
* High-rise Wombat Trad 18m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
24 * A Ticklish Affair Trad 40m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Twitching for Jesus Trad 35m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
* Ride of the Valkries Trad 16m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
Stairway to Heaven Sport 8m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
The Art of Suffering Trad 15m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
25 Police Presence Trad 14m 1.1. Deckout Buttress
* ? Unknown 30m 1.3. Crown Buttress
The Pain, The Pain Sport 8m 1.6. The West Side Ridge
26 * Rubber Nuns Trad 35m 1.2. Googolplex Crag
Spouse Trad 49m 1.3. Crown Buttress