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Description:

Finish Retreat from Moscow by traversing to the far righthand end of the belay slab, equalising the fixed hanger on LBM and a manky 6mm carrot 2m left. Continue heading up and right along a slowly narrowing groove (2001BB) which eventually becomes an overlap and thin seam, clipping bolts on SDOTT, GHtHHH and REN and supplementing with cams (#1 BD, #3 BD) and a Mid-sized hex. When the grove widens and breaks upwards into unprotected vertical climbing, continue right past REN to the next major line of bolts (FCJ), and continue up this to finish (supplement with slinging bomber flake, and slinging shrub). Belay bolts well back from edge.

May not be a first ascent, but was done as a safe way of retreating from Escape from Moscow, avoiding any of the more committing climbs above, and with minimal gear. Despite the length and wandery nature of this climb, rope-drag was not a problem.

Route History:

  • First Ascent: P. Thomson (L) and A. Cummings (S)., Oct 2012

Location:  

Located in Evans Crown Tarana approx:
Long/Lat: 149.924886,-33.548850

Route Grade Citations

19 Principal
19 * Paul Thomson

Route quality

Route quality

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

tired pleasant technical

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