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Red Rock 36 routes in Crag

  • Avg. Height: 18m
  • Style: Top Rope,Trad and other styles
  • Approach time: 1
  • Ascents: 4

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Unique Features And Strengths:
Sandstone

Good climbing on solid sandstone

Description:

Semi arid saltbush pastoral country is not where you would expect to find a quality cliff, but this little outcrop offers some solid rock.

Hot summer days are sure to be unpleasant with much of the cliff facing north. More pleasant climbing can be had on days of moderate temperature. There are some sectors facing east and west which can provide shade in the morning and evening.

Bring some bolt plates for the harder routes.

For more information, refer to Nick Neagle's guide to the Flinders Ranges.

Access Issues:

The cliff is on the Roopena pastoral lease belonging to the Nicolson family. You MUST call to ask permission to access the cliff and to get the key to the locked gate.

Phone (08) 8646 2022

Roopena pastoral lease is part of the planned expansion of the Cultana Defence training area. It is unknown exactly when this will occur, but access after this is unknown

See http://www.defence.gov.au/id/cultana/default.htm for more info.

Approach:
Flat <5 min

From Port Augusta head SW towards Whyalla.

After 24km pass the turnoff of the Eyre Highway (Ceduna, WA, etc.) Continue straight on (S) towards Whyalla.

11.9km S of here and immediately after crossing Myall Creek, turn R to Roopena homestead.

11km along this road the cliff can be seen off to the left (east) behind a locked gate and the Roopena homestead is a further 2km on to the west.

Possession of the 1:50k map of the area (PANDURRA) may be of assistance.

Ethic:
Private

Although the environment may appear harsh and invulnerable, it takes an incredibly long time to recover from any abuse. Keep to tracks, preserve the environment and the rock. No retro-bolting or chipping.

Bad fashion will be a non-issue as you are most likely to have the cliff to yourself.

History:

Climbers have been visiting the area since the late 60s. Many of the routes (or possible lines) were marked with large letters on the cliff (many of which remain.) Subsequent routes names have often taken names beginning with these letters.

Tags:
Deserted

Routes

RouteGradeStylePopularity
1 E.R.C.
12
Trad 18m
2 * Caught in Slips

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

23
Trad 25m
3 Birdsville

FA: Dave Wagland, 1988

20 A1
Aid 25m , 7
4 Flibbertigibbet

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

23
Trad 25m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
5 The Big A

FA: Ajax Greene (solo), 1977

17
Trad 22m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
6 Faux Pas

FA: (16A0) Colin Reece, Steve Carter, Graham Hill, 1976

FFA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, Ajax Greene, 1977

18
Trad 24m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
7 Trihedral
Trad Project
8 Stratagem

FA: Colin Reece, Neil Smith, 1983

22
Trad 16m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
9 G
11
Trad 15m
10 M

FA: James Bond's Boss, years ago.,

15
Trad 15m
11 *** Charlie Goes Surfing

FA: Dave Brayshaw, 1984

23
Trad 15m
12 Kerosene Crack

FA: Colin Reece, Bruce Molineux, Graham Hill, 1976

15
Trad 15m
13 T

FA: Toprope, most likely Dave Brayshaw, mid 80s,

21
Trad 15m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
14 * Drunken Otter

FA: Dave Brayshaw, Peter Beavis, Steve Hobson, 1986

21
Sport 15m
15 S

FA: Toprope, Gary Scott, Mark Barnett, 1979

FFA: ave Brayshaw, Peter Beavis, 1985

18
Trad 15m
16 F

FA: Toprope, Gary Scott, Mark Barnett, 1979

18
Trad 15m
17 * Cretin

FA: Colin Reece, Ajax Greene, 1977

20
Trad 13m
18 Poltroon

FA: Gordon Oates and party, 1968

14
Trad 13m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
19 TR
12
Trad 13m
20 Red Faces
11
Trad 17m
21 * W

FA: Toprope. Probably Brayshaw and company, mid 80’s,

22
Trad 17m
22 S...nake

FA: Gordon Oates (aided?), 1968

FFA: Colin Reece (solo, in sandshoes), 1976

15
Trad 17m
23 Zanzibar

FA: Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979

20
Trad 18m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
24 Steve's Jam Crack

FA: Ajax Greene, (solo, in street shoes), 1977

12
Trad 18m
25 TT

FA: Ajax Greene, 1977

10
Trad 19m
26 * Edge of Extinction

FA: Dave Wagland, Dave Winnall, 1988

21
Mixed 20m , 2
RouteGradeStylePopularity
27 * Indigenous

A quality route on the right side of the blank wall. Follow the crack and corner.

FA: Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979

15
Trad 20m
28 Indigenous Variant

FA: Toprope, Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979

17
Trad 20m
29 * Jabberwocky

Initialled. Stout crack leads to an overhang

FA: Gordon Oates, 1968

15
Trad 20m
30 Juggernaut

FA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, Steve Carter, 1976

15
Trad 20m
31 Ghastlty Rabbitfoot

FA: Colin Reece (second would not follow), 1976

18
Trad 22m
32 ** Twilight Sailing

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

24
Trad 19m
RouteGradeStylePopularity
33 *** Victorian's Crack

Initialled. The superb looking crackline unfortunately has only a few metres of climbing at the grade. You can't miss it.

FA: Colin Reece, 1976

17
Trad 18m
34 Slippery When Dry

Start 4m R of Victorian's Crack. Small holds to faint crack. Mantel over wide horizontal gap then undercling to stance. Bridge to small toe-hold, then up mossy rock.

FA: Billy Clark, Angela D'Onise, 1996

16
Trad 13m
35 Tiny Titties

FA: Derek Milne, Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987

7
Trad 15m
36 Large Titties

FA: Derek Milne, Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987

10
Trad 15m

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

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