Summary

Access to this cliff was closed in 2013. Previously it offered good climbing on solid sandstone.

Description

Semi arid saltbush pastoral country is not where you would expect to find a quality cliff, but this little outcrop offers some solid rock.

Hot summer days are sure to be unpleasant with much of the cliff facing north. More pleasant climbing can be had on days of moderate temperature. There are some sectors facing east and west which can provide shade in the morning and evening.

Bring some bolt plates for the harder routes.

For more information, refer to Nick Neagle's guide to the Flinders Ranges.

Access issues

Access to the cliff was closed in 2013. The cliff is part of the expanded Cultana Defence Training Area. See http://www.defence.gov.au/id/cultana/default.asp for more info.

Approach

From Port Augusta head SW towards Whyalla.

After 24km pass the turnoff of the Eyre Highway (Ceduna, WA, etc.) Continue straight on (S) towards Whyalla.

11.9km S of here and immediately after crossing Myall Creek, turn R to Roopena homestead.

11km along this road the cliff can be seen off to the left (east) behind a locked gate and the Roopena homestead is a further 2km on to the west.

Possession of the 1:50k map of the area (PANDURRA) may be of assistance.

Ethic

Although the environment may appear harsh and invulnerable, it takes an incredibly long time to recover from any abuse. Keep to tracks, preserve the environment and the rock. No retro-bolting or chipping.

Bad fashion will be a non-issue as you are most likely to have the cliff to yourself.

History

Climbers have been visiting the area since the late 60s. Many of the routes (or possible lines) were marked with large letters on the cliff (many of which remain.) Subsequent routes names have often taken names beginning with these letters.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
1
12 E.R.C. Trad 18m

Marked with ERC at the base of the climb.

2
23 * Caught in Slips Trad 25m

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

3
20 A1 Birdsville Aid 25m, 7

FA: Dave Wagland, 1988

4
23 Flibbertigibbet Trad 25m

The strenuous diagonal crack 3m from the L end of the wall. (This sounds like a free ascent of the previous route, possibly before the bolts.)

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

5
17 The Big A Trad 22m

FA: Ajax Greene (solo), 1977

6

After the bouldery start, head up slightly R to a V-notch at the top.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 2013

7
18 Faux Pas Trad 24m

FA: (16A0) Colin Reece, Steve Carter, Graham Hill, 1976

FFA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, Ajax Greene, 1977

8
Trihedral Trad Project
9
22 Stratagem Trad 16m

Much tried in '76. Several metres L of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab. Go to it.

FA: Colin Reece, Neil Smith, 1983

10

Much tried in '76. Several metres left of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab.Go to it.

This was assumed to be a different climb when first attempted by Wimbush & Garrett, with the description below given: Airtime likely on this one. Start at the scoops marked with GA at the bottom and follow the overhanging flake and corner up to the roof and then traverse right to top out. Take some micro cams to protect the traverse.

FA: Colin Reece, Neil Smith, 1983

11
11 G Trad 15m
12
15 M Trad 15m

Climb the middle of the wall 2m R of G.

FA: James Bond's Boss, years ago.

13

Begin L of the graffiti and a few metres R of M. Dash up the overhanging wall R of the shallow rib following bolts. Over the nose to an easier finish.

FA: Dave Brayshaw, 1984

14
15 Kerosene Crack Trad 15m

Climb the wall 1m R of the 'Joe/col' graffiti on jugs to reach a short tapering crack and ledge. The thin crack above is no pushover either.

FA: Colin Reece, Bruce Molineux, Graham Hill, 1976

15
21 T Trad 15m

Jugs 2m R of KC lead to testing face climbing.

FA: Toprope, most likely Dave Brayshaw, mid 80s

16
21 * Drunken Otter Sport 15m

Bolted face route just R of T.

FA: Dave Brayshaw, Peter Beavis, Steve Hobson, 1986

17
18 S Trad 15m

The crack 2m R of DO.

FA: Toprope, Gary Scott, Mark Barnett, 1979

FFA: ave Brayshaw, Peter Beavis, 1985

18
18 F Trad 15m

Good climbing 1m R of S.

FA: Toprope, Gary Scott, Mark Barnett, 1979

19
20 * Cretin Trad 13m

FA: Colin Reece, Ajax Greene, 1977

20
14 Poltroon Trad 13m

FA: Gordon Oates and party, 1968

21
12 TR Trad 13m
22
11 Red Faces Trad 17m
23
22 * W Trad 17m

Begin on the L side of the overhanging buttress. Traverse R to scoops in the face then follow the line to the top.

FA: Toprope. Probably Brayshaw and company, mid 80’s

24
15 S...nake Trad 17m

FA: Gordon Oates (aided?), 1968

FFA: Colin Reece (solo, in sandshoes), 1976

25
20 Zanzibar Trad 18m

Unprotected and undercut arete between S...nake and SJC.

FA: Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979

26
12 Steve's Jam Crack Trad 18m

FA: Ajax Greene, (solo, in street shoes), 1977

27
10 TT Trad 19m

FA: Ajax Greene, 1977

28
21 * Edge of Extinction Mixed 20m, 2

FA: Dave Wagland, Dave Winnall, 1988

29
23 *** Lickety Split Top rope 15m

The outstanding direct route up the centre of the main face.

Easy to the obvious ledge, then delicate face climbing on small flakes (crux). Balancy moves to the top and easy finish.

Could do with bolting.

Set by Mike Garrett, 2013

FA: Mike Garrett, 2013

30
15 * Indigenous Trad 20m

A quality route on the right side of the blank wall. Follow the crack and corner.

FA: Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979

31
17 Indigenous Variant Trad 20m

FA: Toprope, Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979

32
15 * Jabberwocky Trad 20m

Initialled. Stout crack leads to an overhang

FA: Gordon Oates, 1968

33
15 Juggernaut Trad 20m

The juggy arete 3m to the R provides a variant start to Jabberwocky.

FA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, Steve Carter, 1976

34
18 Ghastly Rabbitfoot Trad 22m

Start as for Twilight Sailing and head up and L across the wall with minimal protection. Finish up the arete.

FA: Colin Reece (second would not follow), 1976

35
24 ** Twilight Sailing Trad 19m

Follow bolts up the wall L of Victorian's Crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

36
17 ** Victorian's Crack Trad 18m

Initialled. The superb looking crackline unfortunately has only a few metres of climbing at the grade. You can't miss it.

FA: Colin Reece, 1976

37
16 Slippery When Dry Trad 13m

Start 4m R of Victorian's Crack. Small holds to faint crack. Mantel over wide horizontal gap then undercling to stance. Bridge to small toe-hold, then up mossy rock.

FA: Billy Clark, Angela D'Onise, 1996

38
7 Tiny Titties Trad 15m

Initialled, 7m R of Victorian's Crack. Start up the crack then finish L up the ramp.

FA: Derek Milne, Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987

39
10 Large Titties Trad 15m

Start as for Tiny Titties but move 50cm R and finish straight up the crack.

FA: Derek Milne, Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987

Open trips

There are no open trips for this crag

Learn about trips.