Red Rock Crag guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

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Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Cameron Roy Paul Badenoch Mike Garrett Garth Wimbush vicki

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Red Rock 39 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Red Rock 39 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Trad
Long/Lat: 137.431762, -32.730261
Unique Features And Strengths:: Good climbing on solid sandstone
Description:: Semi arid saltbush pastoral country is not where you would expect to find a quality cliff, but this little outcrop offers some solid rock.

Hot summer days are sure to be unpleasant with much of the cliff facing north. More pleasant climbing can be had on days of moderate temperature. There are some sectors facing east and west which can provide shade in the morning and evening.

Bring some bolt plates for the harder routes.

For more information, refer to Nick Neagle's guide to the Flinders Ranges.
Access Issues:: The cliff is on the Roopena pastoral lease belonging to the Nicolson family. You MUST call to ask permission to access the cliff and to get the key to the locked gate.

Phone (08) 8646 2022

Roopena pastoral lease is part of the planned expansion of the Cultana Defence training area. It is unknown exactly when this will occur, but access after this is unknown

See http://www.defence.gov.au/id/cultana/default.htm for more info.
Approach:: From Port Augusta head SW towards Whyalla.

After 24km pass the turnoff of the Eyre Highway (Ceduna, WA, etc.) Continue straight on (S) towards Whyalla.

11.9km S of here and immediately after crossing Myall Creek, turn R to Roopena homestead.

11km along this road the cliff can be seen off to the left (east) behind a locked gate and the Roopena homestead is a further 2km on to the west.

Possession of the 1:50k map of the area (PANDURRA) may be of assistance.
Ethic:: Although the environment may appear harsh and invulnerable, it takes an incredibly long time to recover from any abuse. Keep to tracks, preserve the environment and the rock. No retro-bolting or chipping.

Bad fashion will be a non-issue as you are most likely to have the cliff to yourself.
History:: Climbers have been visiting the area since the late 60s. Many of the routes (or possible lines) were marked with large letters on the cliff (many of which remain.) Subsequent routes names have often taken names beginning with these letters.

	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
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1	E.R.C. Marked with ERC at the base of the climb.	12	Trad 18m		Garth Wimbush 10 days ago Bush-bash topout. Worthwhile climbing though. Mike Garrett 10 days ago Bushy topout.
2	Caught in Slips FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986	23	Trad 25m
3	Birdsville FA: Dave Wagland, 1988	20 A1	Aid 25m , 7
4	Flibbertigibbet The strenuous diagonal crack 3m from the L end of the wall. (This sounds like a free ascent of the previous route, possibly before the bolts.) FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986	23	Trad 25m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
5	The Big A FA: Ajax Greene (solo), 1977	17	Trad 22m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago 17? Wow. Starts with a V1 unprotected highball.
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
6	The Big A Last Goodbye Variant After the bouldery start, head up slightly R to a V-notch at the top. FA: Paul Badenoch, 2013	17	Top rope 22m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago If you're prepared to lead the start of The Big A (pad recommended), you may want to look at this.
7	Faux Pas FA: (16A0) Colin Reece, Steve Carter, Graham Hill, 1976 FFA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, Ajax Greene, 1977	18	Trad 24m
8	Trihedral		Trad Project
9	Stratagem Much tried in '76. Several metres L of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab. Go to it. FA: Colin Reece, Neil Smith, 1983	22	Trad 16m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
10	General Aviation Airtime likely on this one. Start at the scoops marked with GA at the bottom and follow the overhanging flake and corner up to the roof and then traverse right to top out. Take some micro cams to protect the traverse. RS: Mike Garrett & Garth Wimbush, 2013	24	Trad Project 20m		Garth Wimbush 9 days ago 2nd after Mike. 1 Fall at the bottom, 1 fall on the traverse. Getting close! Garth Wimbush 9 days ago Pushed the climb through to the top, with many gear sits. Had some trouble finding adequate gear ...
11	G	11	Trad 15m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago A bit desperate through the flora.
12	M Climb the middle of the wall 2m R of G. FA: James Bond's Boss, years ago.,	15	Trad 15m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago One of a number of 15s harder than Victorian's Crack.
13	Charlie Goes Surfing Begin L of the graffiti and a few metres R of M. Dash up the overhanging wall R of the shallow rib following bolts. Over the nose to an easier finish. FA: Dave Brayshaw, 1984	23	Trad 15m
14	Kerosene Crack Climb the wall 1m R of the 'Joe/col' graffiti on jugs to reach a short tapering crack and ledge. The thin crack above is no pushover either. FA: Colin Reece, Bruce Molineux, Graham Hill, 1976	15	Trad 15m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Good moves, but was short on time for a lead.
15	T Jugs 2m R of KC lead to testing face climbing. FA: Toprope, most likely Dave Brayshaw, mid 80s,	21	Trad 15m
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
16	Drunken Otter Bolted face route just R of T. FA: Dave Brayshaw, Peter Beavis, Steve Hobson, 1986	21	Sport 15m
17	S The crack 2m R of DO. FA: Toprope, Gary Scott, Mark Barnett, 1979 FFA: ave Brayshaw, Peter Beavis, 1985	18	Trad 15m		Garth Wimbush 11 days ago Yet to do this cleanly. Fiddly, though adequate gear. take a selection of small stoppers for a sn... Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Really good climbing with a tricky finish.
18	F Good climbing 1m R of S. FA: Toprope, Gary Scott, Mark Barnett, 1979	18	Trad 15m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Steep climbing up scoops. Fun deadpoint crux off crimps.
19	Cretin FA: Colin Reece, Ajax Greene, 1977	20	Trad 13m
20	Poltroon FA: Gordon Oates and party, 1968	14	Trad 13m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Desperate mantel. Would be sane with a #5 BD cam but too marginal for me on a 4.
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	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
21	TR	12	Trad 13m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Tricky enough, has a thank-god cam pocket.
22	Red Faces	11	Trad 17m		Garth Wimbush 10 days ago A boulder problem at the top of a scramble. Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Straightforward.
23	W Begin on the L side of the overhanging buttress. Traverse R to scoops in the face then follow the line to the top. FA: Toprope. Probably Brayshaw and company, mid 80’s,	22	Trad 17m
24	S...nake FA: Gordon Oates (aided?), 1968 FFA: Colin Reece (solo, in sandshoes), 1976	15	Trad 17m
25	Zanzibar Unprotected and undercut arete between S...nake and SJC. FA: Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979	20	Trad 18m
Hide Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
26	Steve's Jam Crack FA: Ajax Greene, (solo, in street shoes), 1977	12	Trad 18m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Good climbing, keeps you honest. Cameron Roy 5 months ago Stout at grade 12. Strenuous finish.
27	TT FA: Ajax Greene, 1977	10	Trad 19m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Pleasant climbing on good rock.
28	Edge of Extinction FA: Dave Wagland, Dave Winnall, 1988	21	Mixed 20m , 2
29	Lickety Split The outstanding direct route up the centre of the main face. Easy to the obvious ledge, then delicate face climbing on small flakes (crux). Balancy moves to the top and easy finish. Could do with bolting. RS: Mike Garrett, 2013 FA: Mike Garrett, 2013	23	Top rope 15m		Garth Wimbush 10 days ago Superb - quality face moves on immaculate rock. Second shot. Mike Garrett 10 days ago Outstanding face climbing.
30	Indigenous A quality route on the right side of the blank wall. Follow the crack and corner. FA: Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979	15	Trad 20m		Garth Wimbush 11 days ago Thin on gear for the first half. Interesting crux moves. Cameron Roy 5 months ago Superb. Step left at the top for full value.
31	Indigenous Variant FA: Toprope, Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979	17	Trad 20m		Mike Garrett 8 days ago Insufficient pro.
32	Jabberwocky Initialled. Stout crack leads to an overhang FA: Gordon Oates, 1968	15	Trad 20m		Cameron Roy 5 months ago Tough overcoming the first bulge to get into the crack.
33	Juggernaut The juggy arete 3m to the R provides a variant start to Jabberwocky. FA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, Steve Carter, 1976	15	Trad 20m
34	Ghastly Rabbitfoot Start as for Twilight Sailing and head up and L across the wall with minimal protection. Finish up the arete. FA: Colin Reece (second would not follow), 1976	18	Trad 22m
35	Twilight Sailing Follow bolts up the wall L of Victorian's Crack. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986	24	Trad 19m
Hide Hide
	Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
36	Victorian's Crack Initialled. The superb looking crackline unfortunately has only a few metres of climbing at the grade. You can't miss it. FA: Colin Reece, 1976	17	Trad 18m		Garth Wimbush 11 days ago Superb jamming sequence, though the difficulties are short. Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Cruisy and classy. Best wires ever.
37	Slippery When Dry Start 4m R of Victorian's Crack. Small holds to faint crack. Mantel over wide horizontal gap then undercling to stance. Bridge to small toe-hold, then up mossy rock. FA: Billy Clark, Angela D'Onise, 1996	16	Trad 13m
38	Tiny Titties Initialled, 7m R of Victorian's Crack. Start up the crack then finish L up the ramp. FA: Derek Milne, Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987	7	Trad 15m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago Touch mossy for a solo.
39	Large Titties Start as for Tiny Titties but move 50cm R and finish straight up the crack. FA: Derek Milne, Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987	10	Trad 15m		Paul Badenoch 3 weeks ago No guts, had a look at the pro first.

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style
7	Tiny Titties	Trad 15m
10	Large Titties	Trad 15m
	TT	Trad 19m
11	G	Trad 15m
	Red Faces	Trad 17m
12	E.R.C.	Trad 18m
	Steve's Jam Crack	Trad 18m
	TR	Trad 13m
14	Poltroon	Trad 13m
15	Indigenous	Trad 20m
	Jabberwocky	Trad 20m
	Juggernaut	Trad 20m
	Kerosene Crack	Trad 15m
	M	Trad 15m
	S...nake	Trad 17m
16	Slippery When Dry	Trad 13m
17	Indigenous Variant	Trad 20m
	The Big A	Trad 22m
	The Big A Last Goodbye Variant	Top rope 22m
	Victorian's Crack	Trad 18m
18	F	Trad 15m
	Faux Pas	Trad 24m
	Ghastly Rabbitfoot	Trad 22m
	S	Trad 15m
20	Cretin	Trad 13m
	Zanzibar	Trad 18m
20 A1	Birdsville	Aid 25m , 7
21	Drunken Otter	Sport 15m
	Edge of Extinction	Mixed 20m , 2
	T	Trad 15m
22	Stratagem	Trad 16m
	W	Trad 17m
23	Caught in Slips	Trad 25m
	Charlie Goes Surfing	Trad 15m
	Flibbertigibbet	Trad 25m
	Lickety Split	Top rope 15m
24	General Aviation	Trad Project 20m
	Twilight Sailing	Trad 19m
?	Trihedral	Trad Project

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Crag Guide for Red Rock

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1. Red Rock 39 routes in Crag

2. Index by grade