A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

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Table of contents

1. Red Rock 39 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 137.431762, -32.730261

Unique Features And Strengths:

Access to this cliff was closed in 2013. Previously it offered good climbing on solid sandstone.

Description:

Semi arid saltbush pastoral country is not where you would expect to find a quality cliff, but this little outcrop offers some solid rock.

Hot summer days are sure to be unpleasant with much of the cliff facing north. More pleasant climbing can be had on days of moderate temperature. There are some sectors facing east and west which can provide shade in the morning and evening.

Bring some bolt plates for the harder routes.

For more information, refer to Nick Neagle's guide to the Flinders Ranges.

Access Issues:

Access to the cliff was closed in 2013. The cliff is part of the expanded Cultana Defence Training Area. See http://www.defence.gov.au/id/cultana/default.asp for more info.

Approach:

From Port Augusta head SW towards Whyalla.

After 24km pass the turnoff of the Eyre Highway (Ceduna, WA, etc.) Continue straight on (S) towards Whyalla.

11.9km S of here and immediately after crossing Myall Creek, turn R to Roopena homestead.

11km along this road the cliff can be seen off to the left (east) behind a locked gate and the Roopena homestead is a further 2km on to the west.

Possession of the 1:50k map of the area (PANDURRA) may be of assistance.

Ethic:

Although the environment may appear harsh and invulnerable, it takes an incredibly long time to recover from any abuse. Keep to tracks, preserve the environment and the rock. No retro-bolting or chipping.

Bad fashion will be a non-issue as you are most likely to have the cliff to yourself.

History:

Climbers have been visiting the area since the late 60s. Many of the routes (or possible lines) were marked with large letters on the cliff (many of which remain.) Subsequent routes names have often taken names beginning with these letters.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 E.R.C.

Marked with ERC at the base of the climb.

12Trad 18m
2 * Caught in Slips

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

23Trad 25m
3 Birdsville

FA: Dave Wagland, 1988

20 A1Aid 25m, 7
4 Flibbertigibbet

The strenuous diagonal crack 3m from the L end of the wall. (This sounds like a free ascent of the previous route, possibly before the bolts.)

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

23Trad 25m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
5 The Big A

FA: Ajax Greene (solo), 1977

17Trad 22m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 The Big A Last Goodbye Variant

After the bouldery start, head up slightly R to a V-notch at the top.

FA: Paul Badenoch, 2013

17Top rope 22m
7 Faux Pas

FA: (16A0) Colin Reece, Steve Carter, Graham Hill, 1976

FFA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, Ajax Greene, 1977

18Trad 24m
8 Trihedral Trad Project
9 Stratagem

Much tried in '76. Several metres L of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab. Go to it.

FA: Colin Reece, Neil Smith, 1983

22Trad 16m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 * Strategem / General Aviation

Much tried in '76. Several metres left of G a diagonal line leads to a roof-capped slab.Go to it.

This was assumed to be a different climb when first attempted by Wimbush & Garrett, with the description below given: Airtime likely on this one. Start at the scoops marked with GA at the bottom and follow the overhanging flake and corner up to the roof and then traverse right to top out. Take some micro cams to protect the traverse.

FA: Colin Reece, Neil Smith, 1983

22Trad 20m
11 G 11Trad 15m
12 M

Climb the middle of the wall 2m R of G.

FA: James Bond's Boss, years ago.

15Trad 15m
13 *** Charlie Goes Surfing

Begin L of the graffiti and a few metres R of M. Dash up the overhanging wall R of the shallow rib following bolts. Over the nose to an easier finish.

FA: Dave Brayshaw, 1984

23Trad 15m
14 Kerosene Crack

Climb the wall 1m R of the 'Joe/col' graffiti on jugs to reach a short tapering crack and ledge. The thin crack above is no pushover either.

FA: Colin Reece, Bruce Molineux, Graham Hill, 1976

15Trad 15m
15 T

Jugs 2m R of KC lead to testing face climbing.

FA: Toprope, most likely Dave Brayshaw, mid 80s

21Trad 15m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
16 * Drunken Otter

Bolted face route just R of T.

FA: Dave Brayshaw, Peter Beavis, Steve Hobson, 1986

21Sport 15m
17 S

The crack 2m R of DO.

FA: Toprope, Gary Scott, Mark Barnett, 1979

FFA: ave Brayshaw, Peter Beavis, 1985

18Trad 15m
18 F

Good climbing 1m R of S.

FA: Toprope, Gary Scott, Mark Barnett, 1979

18Trad 15m
19 * Cretin

FA: Colin Reece, Ajax Greene, 1977

20Trad 13m
20 Poltroon

FA: Gordon Oates and party, 1968

14Trad 13m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
21 TR 12Trad 13m
22 Red Faces 11Trad 17m
23 * W

Begin on the L side of the overhanging buttress. Traverse R to scoops in the face then follow the line to the top.

FA: Toprope. Probably Brayshaw and company, mid 80’s

22Trad 17m
24 S...nake

FA: Gordon Oates (aided?), 1968

FFA: Colin Reece (solo, in sandshoes), 1976

15Trad 17m
25 Zanzibar

Unprotected and undercut arete between S...nake and SJC.

FA: Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979

20Trad 18m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
26 Steve's Jam Crack

FA: Ajax Greene, (solo, in street shoes), 1977

12Trad 18m
27 TT

FA: Ajax Greene, 1977

10Trad 19m
28 * Edge of Extinction

FA: Dave Wagland, Dave Winnall, 1988

21Mixed 20m, 2
29 *** Lickety Split

The outstanding direct route up the centre of the main face.

Easy to the obvious ledge, then delicate face climbing on small flakes (crux). Balancy moves to the top and easy finish.

Could do with bolting.

Set by Mike Garrett, 2013

FA: Mike Garrett, 2013

23Top rope 15m
30 * Indigenous

A quality route on the right side of the blank wall. Follow the crack and corner.

FA: Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979

15Trad 20m
31 Indigenous Variant

FA: Toprope, Mark Barnett, Gary Scott, 1979

17Trad 20m
32 * Jabberwocky

Initialled. Stout crack leads to an overhang

FA: Gordon Oates, 1968

15Trad 20m
33 Juggernaut

The juggy arete 3m to the R provides a variant start to Jabberwocky.

FA: Colin Reece, Eddie Ozols, Steve Carter, 1976

15Trad 20m
34 Ghastly Rabbitfoot

Start as for Twilight Sailing and head up and L across the wall with minimal protection. Finish up the arete.

FA: Colin Reece (second would not follow), 1976

18Trad 22m
35 ** Twilight Sailing

Follow bolts up the wall L of Victorian's Crack.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986

24Trad 19m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
36 ** Victorian's Crack

Initialled. The superb looking crackline unfortunately has only a few metres of climbing at the grade. You can't miss it.

FA: Colin Reece, 1976

17Trad 18m
37 Slippery When Dry

Start 4m R of Victorian's Crack. Small holds to faint crack. Mantel over wide horizontal gap then undercling to stance. Bridge to small toe-hold, then up mossy rock.

FA: Billy Clark, Angela D'Onise, 1996

16Trad 13m
38 Tiny Titties

Initialled, 7m R of Victorian's Crack. Start up the crack then finish L up the ramp.

FA: Derek Milne, Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987

7Trad 15m
39 Large Titties

Start as for Tiny Titties but move 50cm R and finish straight up the crack.

FA: Derek Milne, Peter Kraehenbuehl, 1987

10Trad 15m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style
7 Tiny Titties Trad 15m
10 Large Titties Trad 15m
TT Trad 19m
11 G Trad 15m
Red Faces Trad 17m
12 E.R.C. Trad 18m
Steve's Jam Crack Trad 18m
TR Trad 13m
14 Poltroon Trad 13m
15 * Indigenous Trad 20m
* Jabberwocky Trad 20m
Juggernaut Trad 20m
Kerosene Crack Trad 15m
M Trad 15m
S...nake Trad 17m
16 Slippery When Dry Trad 13m
17 Indigenous Variant Trad 20m
The Big A Trad 22m
The Big A Last Goodbye Variant Top rope 22m
** Victorian's Crack Trad 18m
18 F Trad 15m
Faux Pas Trad 24m
Ghastly Rabbitfoot Trad 22m
S Trad 15m
20 * Cretin Trad 13m
Zanzibar Trad 18m
20 A1 Birdsville Aid 25m, 7
21 * Drunken Otter Sport 15m
* Edge of Extinction Mixed 20m, 2
T Trad 15m
22 Stratagem Trad 16m
* Strategem Trad 20m
* W Trad 17m
23 * Caught in Slips Trad 25m
*** Charlie Goes Surfing Trad 15m
Flibbertigibbet Trad 25m
*** Lickety Split Top rope 15m
24 ** Twilight Sailing Trad 19m
? Trihedral Trad Project