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Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
4
9
18m
Boneyard Area
25
75
28m
Main Face Area
-
0
0
The Block Boulder
11
2
10m

Routes

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Grade Route
9
16 Faggus Unknown 200m
11
15 Boneyard Unknown 240m
12
19 Fionn McCool Unknown 210m
13
AID:A2+ Little Pinocchio Aid 95m
14
25 ** Black Fire Unknown 130m 4

A varied multipitch up the main face, which is more "fun" than some of the sustained slab multis nearby. Marred by sections of friable rock.

Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground (Bisso of Orange belay). The line of bolts trending righy from this foreshortened belay is Bisso of Orange.

It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the Bisso of Orange belay as a giant 40m pitch.

P1 40m (21) - Up easy start passing interim belay, and continuing up technical slab for 40m to belay. The rock quality deteriorates as this pitch progresses.

P2 32m (25) - Follow line of bolts right off belay, up technical slab on fragile rock to steep bulge. Turn steep bulge with a big throw to finish, then technical finale trending left to join another line of bolts at the belay.

P3 35m (21) - More thin slabbing on better rock, with a very profound crux at half height.

P4 20m 20) - Easy slabbing upwards with a brief hard move past a rooflet, to elay on ledge below Orange Crush.

Either rap from here (3 x raps with double ropes) or finish up Orange Crush or Obsidian Obsession.

15
26 * Bisso of Orange Sport 180m 6

Start at base of ramp leading up to Sapphire Rose (et al.) below belay point 6m off the ground. The line of bolts trending up from this foreshortened belay is Black Fire. Bisso of Orange goes right.

It is best to belay from the ground and climb past the foreshortened belay as a giant 35m pitch.

P1 - 35m (16)

P2 - 30m (22)

P3 - 30m (22)

P4 - 35m (22)

P5 - 25m (26)

P6 - 30m (21)

16
25 *** Into the Mystic Sport 170m 5

Starts as for P1 of Sapphire Rose.

P1 35m (22) - Up Sapphire Rose P1 for 15m, then follow fixed hangers leading left and up with hard slab moves to the belay.

P2 20m (25) - Up small corner/flake then onward through sustained thin crimping.

P3 25m (24) - Traverse scarily left from the belay then upwards with increasing difficulty to belay.

P4 45m (22) - A marathon Pitch of sustained thin slabbing. Up.

P5 25m (24) - Steep moves on blocky slopers up the orange headwall to final crux as the last moves of the climb.

3 x raps (25m, 50m, 50m) to get back to the ground.

17
22 *** The Sapphire Rose Sport 95m
18
23 *** Mornings Minion Sport 30m, 14

Starts right of The Sapphire Rose P1. Straight up to join The Sapphire Rose at the P1 anchors.

FA: Andrew Martin

19
27 *** Ride the Lightning Sport 200m 6

The line 5m right of Mornings Minion. Straight up the guts of the wall.

P1 - 25/26

P2 - 22

P3 - 19

P4 - 25

P5 - 27

P6 - 4

Descend by rapping the route as necessary.

FA: Andrew Martin

20
21 Padraic Pearse Unknown 270m
21
18 Finn Crisp Unknown 200m
22
25 *** God Monster Sport 130m 4

Starts at ground level, to the right side of the scree-ramp leading to Sapphire Rose et al. Start just left of a big corner forming a right-leaning arch. Hard and varied.

P1 30m (22) - Climb on the right leaning rib along the lip of the arch with progressively increasing difficulty to a tough awkward finale.

P2 30m (22) - Trend right along the lip of the arch with an easy start leading to much thin face climbing.

P3 35m (25) - Up. Through a vague square cut corner/rooflet, and up a very thin and technical slab on spaced bolts.

P4 30m (25) - Straight up the steep headwall with pumpy, powerful climbing to a final thin headwall on black rock (can be a bit dirty).

Descent via 2 x 60m raps to the ground.

FA: Ingvar Lidmin

23
25 ** Godhead's Lament Sport 25m, 11

A mighty steep pitch that can be climbed as a single pitch, or as a harder start to God Monster.

Starts 6m right of God Monster on the steep underside of the arch that God Monster traverses around.

Up via much steepness (by Bare Rock standards) remaining on the underside of the arch (its possible to stem off the right-corner in the lower 1/3rd without changing the grade), finishing up at the anchor at the end of God Monster Pitch 1 after the last ringbolt on the face.

Set by Paul Thomson, 2016

FA: Paul Thomson, 2016

24
18 No Name Unknown 85m
25
17 MacDonagh Trad 200m
26
AID:A2+ Hardly Worth the Effort Aid 140m
27
17 Conan MacMorna Unknown 180m
28
18 Red Sonja Unknown 25m
29
19 * Tomorrows Dream Sport 100m 3

A 'mostly' sport route offering three varied pitches. P1 is a fully bolted slab (16). P2 follows loose right trending diagonal line (camming devices) before traversing to bolt on left wall (17). Up to belay. P3 is brilliant fully bolted grade 19 climbing on great rock.

30

An alternate 2nd pitch to Tomorrows Dream making the route fully bolted.

31

The line of bolts between Tomorrow's Dream and Rocketman with a very hard start.

32
26 * Rocketman Sport 30m

The rightward-trending line of bolts right of The Best Thing Since Powdered Milk.

FA: Ingvar Lidmin

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