Routes in Flinders Peak (limited access)

Slab (3 U-bolts) to ledge, then follow U-bolts up and left through orange huecos, to a crimpy finale.

Slab (2 FH) to ledge. Climb leftwards from ledge up steep wall and arête, moving right from last bolt to the tree anchor. Classic mantle moves and an excellent position.

Climb HTT to ledge. R line up orange wall to tree anchor.

5m R of SS. Up slab (3 FH ) then roof and overhang.

From 3rd BR on proj, move R to next line of BR.

From 36degrees, follow wall R 30m past overhangs to big black wall. Route diagonals Left up wall.

Mixed pro bolts and smallish wires. Groove R of FI. Slab to cave and groove above.

Lets be honest, you didn't come here to climb 17's. Easier to climb as two pitches. Tread carefully as beginning of second pitch has some fragile rock.

1. 10m (12)

2. 15m (17)

Same start as NATM, left hand line leading to NATM anchors. Bouldery crux with great climbing either side. Bomber rock.

A good warm up and introduction to Flinder's rock. The climbing is fun and there's jugs whenever you need them…clean the 4th draw after you climb past it.

Slightly more demanding and steeper than its little brother. Climbs the first three bolts of "King of the Mods" then straight up! The upper grove is a delight. Will need a long runner on third bolt.

Fun, exposed climbing in an overhanging corner. Best accessed from "The Nightmare of Milky Joe" anchor.

Ok the walls getting steeper and this was the first test piece established on the crag. Have a good rest at 3rd and head straight into the first crux, solved with some fancy beta. Take care clipping the 5th, shake out and then punch through the final horizontal roof to a shared anchor with W.J.P.

This second climb established at the cliff is a demanding steep route, start from the little cave. Avoid doing a double heel hook no hands rest at the 3rd and you'll walk away without ruptured abbs like visiting Brit Ben Heason!

Link up, although climbs the natural line and corner-feature all the way. Climb WJP (rethread at Jigsaws anchor or rig for minimizing rope drag) into its extension - TSAAPS. Before the “Board Wall”, follow left clipping a link up bolt, before joining directly into KUWYC, finishing up this.

The extension to “Wet Jiggy”. Climb this (rethread at anchor) then straight up the face to a hands free stance beneath the steep headwall. Tackle a “board” styled boulder straight up to a wild mantle out, onto the ledge. As an old timer once said, “Talking shit about rock climbing, is like talking smack about a pretty sunset”.

Climb “The Priest And The Beast” until it turns into a ‘Moonboard’. Blast up and then right, following the horizontal crack feature out. Keep climbing to the high, airy shared anchor as “Crack Fox Proj”.

Link up. Climb the funky pumpy first 6 draws of Stolen Generation up to the blunt arete( long draw for the win). Then bust left into the top 2 fixed draws of Wet Jigsaw puzzle and freestyle to the anchors to finish the puzzle.

A relentless line, that will pump you all the way to the chains. Note: Part of the difficulty of this route is the anchor clip. A double or long length draw on the anchor gets you hard 26 but not the full points.

Link up. Climb KOTM to the 6th bolt knee (long draw here)- then traverse right along into WJP. Clip WJP’s last bolt, then get your pump on across the funky corner of TSG to its anchor.

Climb to “The Stolen Generation” anchor then embark on a quest up the “board wall” untill you reach a ledge. Take a break then keep motoring up high on the wall.

Mega hard line up some seriously steep and blank looking territory.

First section (5 bolts) was bolted by Adam Donoghue back in the day. The next section (5 bolts) have since been placed with the possibility of it extending even further. This thing will be hard! Potentially in the grade range of 34 - 36!

Climb adams proj until the 6th and then throw back right into the end of pepperoni. Great power climbing.

Climb the relentless thuggery of Channing Potatum to the rest. Instead of finishing up LAMOP, pump your way across the traverse of Dr Pepper. Finish up that route.

Awesomely popular kneebar fest, a “must do” crag classic! Usually always draws on it, but take a long draw for the 6th bolt if not. Then commit to the second half and enjoy the air below you. 2nd pitch is not completely established.

1. 20m (27) - 9 bolts

2. 17m 'Open Project' left and up from the anchor. All the way up to the high anchor. Bolting not finished

Start up 'LAMOP' to 5th bolt then go right 6 more bolts to Space Odyssey's anchor. A long pumpy route.

The line of bolts to right of Pepperoni start. Potentially in the grade range of 29 - 30.

Begin off the big cheese Boulder right of LAMOP. The striking ceiling arete. Finish as for Dr Pepper

Start as for the first 3 bolts of 'Entergalactic Ceiling' then branches left and up sustained head wall. Finishes at the anchor of Entergalactic Ceiling.

Mega extension of 'Event Horizon'. After the last draw of 'Event Horizon' blast off across the cheese block in space and then continue up 'One man space race' frothing the lactic delirium to glory. It's out there!

Take note on equipping EH to limit drag at the beginning. Although not going to anchor or kneebar it is a straight line out the roof.

Start from the small boulder. Powerful over horizontal moves through the ceiling then up the hard steep wall above.

The extension to Entergalactic Ceiling. Continues from the chains across the cave to finish on the anchors of Saxicoline. Long and pumpy. Definitely harder than "Entergalactic Ceiling" but probably not by a full grade. Adds a whole lot more fun climbing to an already awesome route.

Climb Entergalactic Ceiling then bust under past the fridge block of doom and head up the runnel. The link from the first bolt to the second of the extension is bold. A fun super pump lactic fest.

To reduce drag perform some trickery at the start of EC; clipping the next, then unclipping the last for bolts 2,3 and 4. Then when safe, the belayer or a friend can unclip the first bolt from the ground. A long sling with a revolver biner on the last bolt of EC helps with drag also. Avoid the temptation of clipping EC's anchor.

Mega extension of 'Event Horizon'. After the last draw of 'Event Horizon' head right across cheese blocks and then continue right and then up the compact head wall.

Climb 'Astrobatics', then keep girdling to the right across Mr Meeseeks until you end up at the end of Desperado. The longest and hardest route in the cave.

Starts 2m to the right of "Entergalactic Ceiling". Give your eyes time to adjust. Interesting climbing into the back of the cave.

Short roof problem 4 meters R of VA. Finishes as for VA's anchor. Fun.

Start as for Event Horizon 1st bolt then follow the first bolt on the left into a boulder problem to reach the start of Grandmas Bad ass UFO this is to be followed to the anchors. Adds a ground up start with some interesting moves to a great Rick Helm Classic.

Batman start. Stick clip the first 2 bolts. Some steep thuggery with some good knee bars to a hard finish. Finish up last bolt and anchors of Second Base With Grandma.

Starts up the back of the cave, 5m right of 'Short Sighted'. Take care to 4th, then super steep inverted madness for 2 bolts. Bust along the hanging wall traverse to a rest, then escape the rooflet and power up the headwall to the anchor.

Climb the fun first 3/4 of "the boob" and then traverse merrily left on more unlikely pockets. A tricky sequence gains you access into the end crux of “Cosmic Caveman”. Classy movements on holds that are never too poor or spikey. *9/05/17 moved anchors slightly, couldn't remove one of the old anchors as it was stripped, don't use captive ring - will remove.

Really fun punchy little climb. Starts on the left side of the big hanging down boob/udder at the back right side of the cave. Stick clip the first bolt as a tumble down the slope will make the walk out very unpleasant.

Stick clip the second bolt of GAB, caress your way right at the 4th, some longer draws across the traverse help smooth things out as you respectfully fondle the anchors on Geriatric Acrobatics.

Bouldery and varied climbing, has cut looses and feet first moves! Burly roof problem straight into a "harder than it looks" mantel sequence. Perma draws through the roof, stick clip the first bolt and unclip after the first perma draw is clipped - until you are confident on the start.

Quite a Journey! Linkup of Geriatric Acrobatics into GAB. After doing the first two cruxes of Geriatric at the double knees, go left across the face with a bit of power, a few long draws help with drag. Joins into the crux of GAB and then continues to its anchors.

In the steep grotto on the right side of the cave. Start way at the back, grunt thru the roof, and traverse the left wall to shared anchors with TVM. Belay bolt on wall adjacent slab.

Of average length but quite stiff. Extends TVG over the lip and up the headwall for a bunch more climbing. Use 600mm draws and drag is no problem.

In the grotto. Scramble carefully up to ledge belay. One for the boulderers. Short but steep R trending line out ceiling. Bust a Valsalva manoeuvre to reach the chains.

Three boulder problems stacked, Climb TVM and continue up the shared extension to the anchors of TS. Adds a 25 and a lot of value to TVM.

Steep climbing up and through the almost improbable (for grade 24) looking line that finishes at the top of the cave chamber. It overhangs a solid 12 meters but the good holds just keep on coming!

Start up Saxicoline then sneak under and around the lip out onto the main face. Traverse out left along seam, then head straight up the right-hand set of bolts through fantastic climbing with some long moves on the head wall. This is a crag classic and must do at the grade.

Start "Saxicoline" but break right, following the bottom headwall right. Keep pushing all the way along the wall to IG’s anchor. All the bolting needs doing.

Climb Plumbus and keep trucking left into the hard end crux of astrobatics.

Starts the same as Desparado but continues straight up the head wall when Desparado breaks left. Some very hard moves on good rock. Potentially in the grade range From 32 - 34.

The original start to Desperado!

Start up Terminus for 4 bolts then head left and grab the Dinglebop then reach up and put your fingers into the Krumbo. Once through the boulder chalk up with a bunch of Shleem as you are now on Desperado and still have a fair bit of climbing to go. Now power all the way to the top making sure to find the rests as your Fleeb juice will be pumping! Continue to the anchors and be a master of the Plumbus.

Start up the slab. Unique holds and fun compression climbing, see you to and through the corner. The original ending saw you clipping the chains from devious crimpers!

Link up. The natural antithesis of French Desire, climbed in large part because of the name.

Climbs Terminus of Desire's crux then traverses across the top of the shield (long slings on either side of the shield) to finish up the finale of The French Connection.

Up 'The French Connection' but head left after the shield crux to the 'Terminus of Desire' anchors for an easier finish. This was the original finish for 'The French Connection'.

Start from the big belay ledge down hill from Saxicoline. Stick clip the first bolt, climbing upwards to a good rest. The wall gets “off vertical”, as you make your way across the “shield” feature. Classic moves all the way, punching upwards to the high anchor.

Climb up The French Connection, into The Watchtower and begin traversing left at the 3rd last bolt to Desparado's anchor (skip the last bolt of Desperado). An endurance affectiono’s main course!

After climbing The French Connection keep climbing up the right most line of bolts. Hard moves into the roof lead to a boulder problem right at the lip of the cave. Mantle out of the cave to a hands free stance to finish the climb and take a well deserved victory whipper. Back jump to The French Connection anchors to clean.

Climb the first 3 bolts of 'The French Connection' (Stickclip the first) before splitting right into a flexibility, dependant crux. If you're like Glen you can just campus it!

Finishes at "Talking with the Tax Man" anchors.

Athletic climbing, with a reach-dependant, tricky crux. Finish up BSOTW

Link up. Start on “Drinking From The Sun” getting established over the funky roof - but instead of going straight- move right to finish on “Hilltop Hoods” anchor clip.

Stick clip first bolt. Short and sweet, traverse right past the first bolt and then head straight up to the double bolt anchor.

Sit start of one eyed undertaker and traverse over the blob into the start of talking with the taxman. Sick boulder.

Ross pulled himself out of a slump and sent this in 26 shots, about 4 every weekend for many weekends! Stick clip first bolt. This beautiful right sweeping, ever hardening line is worth singing and dancing about!

Crank Song And Dance Man, but instead of finishing on the low anchors, get groovy stepping left up Steve ‘Epic’ Turner Memorial Route, to it’s high anchor.

Climbs direct through the steepness into the crux of 'Song and Dance Man'.

Like the great man, it's a journey that keeps you engaged right to the anchors. Climb 'One Eyed Undertaker' and exit top of crux into the small corner on the left. Head on up blunt arete to chains. Shown as route 19 on the old ACAQ route database topo: http://www.climb.org.au/upload2/1038.jpg.

A delicate, bouldery crux down low, leads into great technical climbing joining into Fingertips and Mountain tops (skip the double bolt hangers on the left- and put a long draw on the 6th). Climb this all the way to the anchor.

Jimmy Blackhall

Link up. Finesse up “No Knees” though to the rest at the 5th bolt. Move up, before making a traverse left, gunning across One Eyed Undertaker’s anchor (don't fall here or you maybe likely to receive the link up's name). Keep climbing up onto the blunt arete of Steve 'Epic' Turner Memorial Route. Try not to pump out, blasting up to it’s high anchor.

Just like the Austrian power house, Gery Unterasinger. Back to back “boltering” - “No Knees” crux into “Song and Dance Man” ’s crux. A memorial for the mountain legend himself.

A break from the steep stuff. An intricate crimp fest. Technical climbing around and above the lip of the cave.

Climbs the wide crack to the left of Catastrophist to ledge on trad. Edge your way gingerly around the bulge and clip a long runner on the first bolt of headwall. Do a hard move surmounting the bulge to establish on the arete. Stay on the arete clipping the bolts on the face to finish.

Climb the obvious tower 40m left across the talus field from the “Freeloader” arete. Straight up the middle of the face to an exposed finale on the free standing tower. Can gain the top of the tower for a great seat and view.

Climb the arete on the prominent pillar where the track meets the wall. Starts on the slab with a high first bolt on good holds. Freerider your way up the prow to the summit and take in the views. Good route to learn leading.

Shares first four bolts and trends right around arete and up the bouldery face to shared anchors on the prow. A longer draw on the 4th will reduce drag. A short draw on the 5th will direct a fall above in the right direction. Pre-placing draws after doing the arete climb would be best, but there goes your onsight...

Caution: As improbable as it looks, falling at 5th/6th can result in hitting the pillar behind you if you are not careful.

Short and punchy pressure crack system. Starts higher up and across the gully from Freeloader. Takes entirely small wires and cams with lots of thin face climbing. Add it to the list for your trad day at Sanctuary.

Named after the Staghorn above the anchors. Climbs right side of arete. First bolt stick clip or reach off the slab. Tricky moves up the arete as you roll around the arete onto the face. Fancy face climbing to the chains. Well protected for the grade.

A surprisingly worth while TR. Lead Platycerium to establish an anchor. Belay above the slab. Start on low crimps. The hand jamb is 100% optional but you selling yourself short if you don't do it. Finish by touching the staghorn for good luck.

Amazing climbing up the pumpy face to the technical prow above. Since the FA lots of new holds have been cleaned up.

Bouldery headwall above Desert Treasure. Techy power problem on crimps and pockets. Finish at the top of the pillar above the treeline.

Prominent black arete climb straight up the arete from the ground for a good time.

Same start as for Lock Stock, at the jugs near the rooflet head right into the corner before launching back left to the ledge.

Climb Lock Stock until it breaks right into Two Smoking barrels, continue up and right for 3 bolts and finish up the last bolt and anchor of Loose Hips. Quite technical but fun! Equipping the 3rd bolt was subcontracted out to Scott in a heavy downpour .

From standing belay either at the top of Lock Stock or just to the left, climb the easy slab up the corner then step onto the headwall and head up.

Just an anchor currently needs a lot of choss trundled. Do not climb.

Starts 5m right of LS&2SB arete. Climbs straight up the overlapping rooflets and wall onto blunt arete. Technical climbing and some wild moves. Useful to have longer draws on bolts 1 & 5 for rope flow.

Start in front of the thick “Grass Tree”. Climb a series of features- up a faint, open-book-corner system. At the last bolt, traverse up and hard right to the anchors with SS Lower offs. Long draw on the 6th assists.

An overhanging journey on the left end of the wall. Begin in the open orange corner. Stick clip high first bolt. Wrestle the fused block at half height to set up for pumpy moves to the final clip. Trend right to shared anchor with Blood Moon. Note: The fused block has been pinned and glued.

NOTE: stick clip the high first bolt to start. Bouldery start to get established on the wall, leads to awesome crack fondling goodness and a pumpy journey to high anchor.

Climb the bouldery start and seam trending right to establish on the main wall. Follow the winding seam till it disappears high on the wall in a sea of microholds. Continue up the steepening wall to the final puzzle and clip the anchors on the lip.

Variant start to CTTL from in the small cave. Traverse the lip out left side and up to establish on the wall. Joins CTTL after the 3rd bolt.

Start in the little cave in front of the tree. Boulder up to stance below technical face, grapple and crank your way up before a punchy throw gets you to a welcome rest at ⅔ height. Spicy boulder to finish at the top of the wall.