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Areas

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Name
Style
Climbs
Ticks
Height
Grades
4
19
54m
3
7
110m
The Moai Area
6
140
26m
2
1
55m

Routes

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Grade Route
10
25 R *** Candle in the Wind 110m 25 Mixed 100m, 3

3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap :IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.

Start: Follow the Cape Huay track (1.5 Hrs) all the way to the the end, don\'t turn off as for the Totem Pole, but continue to un-fenced rock lookout. Locate rap rings over cliff edge on left(looking out). The route is 100m south of the Totem Pole,ie towards Cape Pillar.

  1. 15m (24) Punchy litle pitch up crack to 2 Fixed Hangers and small stance on left of crack. Bolts and small gear

  2. 30m (25) Ball-tearer of a pitch up crack to Double rings on right of crack. Bolt, then plenty of sm-med cams, wires and dutch courage. Led by the master of bridging Mr Monks!

  3. 30m (23) Brilliant steep crack climbing to thank-God ledge. Cams to #3 Camalot, wires

  4. 25m (18) Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to DBB (though it is possible to finish more easily on the right). Great climbing, but the rock quality is a tad crumbly.

FA: Steve Monks and Adrian Laing, 2006

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