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Description

Routes on the mainland cliffs of Cape Hauy.

© (deano)

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

Access 'Candle in the Wind' from the rock lookout. Locate rap rings over cliff edge on left (looking out).

1
25 *** Candle in the Wind Mixed 110m 4, 3

3 great pitches of crack climbing followed by a short top-out pitch. A great alternative if the Totem Pole routes are wet when you get out there. Rap 25m to double rings and Fixed Hanger. For the next rap: IMPORTANT: Rap down crack to the right (looking out,ie towards Cape Pillar) 30m to a Double ring hanging belay, don't just rap straight over ledge(you won't find the double rings). Next Rap 45m to huge ledge 15m above the ocean, or rap to the first belay (2 F.H.)30m below, with one 15 rap to the ledge.

  1. 15m, 24, 2 bolts -Punchy litle pitch up crack to 2 Fixed Hangers and small stance on left of crack. Bolts and small gear

  2. 30m, 25, 1 bolt - Ball-tearer of a pitch up crack to Double rings on right of crack. Bolt, then plenty of sm-med cams, wires and dutch courage. Led by the master of bridging Mr Monks!

  3. 30m, 23 - Brilliant steep crack climbing to thank-God ledge. Cams to #3 Camalot, wires

  4. 25m, 18 - Interesting face & crack climbing to the ledge, then up corner to DBB (though it is possible to finish more easily on the right). Great climbing, but the rock quality is a tad crumbly.

FA: Steve Monks & Adrian Laing May, 2006

Access these routes from the Totem pole ledge, from the lookout walk down to the left for roughly 50m, veering left around a large gully. After dropping down a couple steps and when the tip of the Totem pole is now visible again on your right cut back towards it until you reach the double bolt anchor.

2
24 ** Swell Repeller Sport 55m

Two pitches of stunning arêtes, both of which are fully bolted. A great bad weather option when the Tote is being hammered by the swell. The route is on the mainland cliffs facing the Totem Pole. Fix a 60m rope to DBB as for the Totem Pole access, but rap diagonally towards Cape Pillar (SE), heading down a scungy corner to a ledge with a DBB belay. Continue rapping down the wall below, L of knife blade arête, to arrive at a small ledge about 5m above the ocean with another DBB.

  1. 35m (24) Climb sustained arête past 10 FHs that get fairly spaced and oddly placed as you get higher. Belay on vegetated ledge at DBB.

  2. 20m (20) Up thin crack splitting the exposed arête above to small ledge. Sling rock tooth with a large sling and climb easily to top. Belay off the DBB.

FA: Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2006

3
18 to 20 Unknown 1 Trad 35m

This is directly under the rap anchors for the Totem pole and starts on a large ledge level with the ledge on the tote.

Up fist crack widening to offwidth, a small roof then back to hand crack and thinner to top.

Alternate start 1m right up nice layback crack for 5m then traverse left into offwidth.

4
Unknown 2 Trad 35m