- Height: 110m
- Pitches: 4
- Ascents: 12
- Aka: Direct Route
60m Fixed line rap off the rings as for the Totem pole, jump in and swim left not right to ledge with U bolts 2m above water. Drag traverse rope across 15m gap and setup tyrolean or swim.
Note 60m fixed line will initially require 10m extension with tag line to span diagonally when being dragged up from start of first pitch.
Loose rock is a possibility on all pitches, hauling of spare ropes and packs is recommended.
(18) 30m Steely up corner crack which thins to fingers. Traverse right under roof and out onto finger flakes on face then up and traverse back left to sloping belay ledge with fixed wire. Good sustained pitch.
(17) 30m Up corner crack with bridging and hand jamming of various widths. Continue to loose vegetated belay ledge at top with slings around boulder. Good pitch with some small rest ledges.
(15) 25m Up wide crack and through awkward chimney sqeeze being careful not to dislodge loose rock. If climbing in single pair then leader will need to trail tyrolean rope up through chimney and flick around arête with help of second otherwise it will get stuck on arête. Continue up cracks and onto belay ledge being mindful of loose rock when choosing anchor pro.
(15) 20m Up sunny face veering a little left at the top to another rusty anchor then scramble to the real summit.
A) Lower traverse bolts Finish as for normal route by rapping from high fixed hangers at top of P3 down to U bolts on normal route P2 and setup tyrolean from here
B) Higher traverse bolts Setup tyrolian from high fixed hangers at top of P3, this involves a controlled decent as anchors are approx 20m higher than mainland anchors. Both top traverses over 30m, the fixed hanger traverse is approx 40m including rope sag.
First Ascent: Craig Adam & Greg Thompson
Located in The Candlestick approx:
Route Grade Citations
|18||Community registered grade|
Overall quality score: 96%
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