Frenchmans Cap Crag guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Vanessa Wills Rod Smith Campbell Gome Gareth Llewellin @sticks_23 Simon Dale Adam Bramwell Stephen White topher James Hardy

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

1. Frenchmans Cap 64 in Crag
- 1.1. Clytemnestra 48 in Area
  - 1.1.1. Twisted Towers 1 in Area
  - 1.1.2. South-West Wall 3 in Area
  - 1.1.3. South-East Face 20 in Area
  - 1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs 24 in Area
- 1.2. Sharlands Peak 2 in Area
- 1.3. White Needle 2 in Area
- 1.4. Philips Peak 3 in Area
- 1.5. Lake Tahune Signpost 1 in Area
- 1.6. Tahune Face 7 in Area
- 1.7. East Face 1 in Area
2. Index by grade

1. Frenchmans Cap 64 routes in Crag

seasonality

Summary:: Mostly Trad or Sport
Long/Lat: 145.827113, -42.261797

1.1. Clytemnestra 48 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Unknown

1.1.1. Twisted Towers 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Unknown

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		South-east Summit and Twisted owers	13	Unknown

1.1.2. South-West Wall 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Western Slab Route	12	Unknown 150m
2	Western Slab Route Alternate Finish	13	Unknown
3	South-west Wall Chimney		Unknown

1.1.3. South-East Face 20 routes in Area

Summary:: ?,Alpine and Aid

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Southern Parapet	10	Unknown 200m
2	The Chimes of Freedom	17	Alpine 270m	topher 1 years ago With Jed. Heady traverse! Vanessa Wills 2 years ago In sleet and rain. Wet cracks. Numb hands. As mountaineering as you can get in OZ
3	Valerie	16 M4	Aid 400m
4	The Sydney Route	16	Alpine 380m	topher 1 years ago With Jed. Didn't find the chockstone at the end of the first pitch, but good gear at about 40m fo... robbie houlihan 5 years ago what an epic, what more can i say
5	The Sydney Route Direct Start	14	Unknown 62m	topher 1 years ago With Jed Awesome middle pitches! Even the 'climb the overhanging wall on bad rock' bit was great!... Stephen White 16 years ago started on a nice sunny day and finished in the clouds
6	The Melbourne Variant	16	Unknown 370m
7	The De Gaulle's Nose Route	23	Unknown 330m	Gareth Llewellin 5 years ago awesome, with some gnarly bits. 5 degrees most of the day!
8	The Great Flake	22	Unknown 370m
9	The Lorax	20	Unknown 390m
10	Conquistador	20	Unknown 360m
11	Conquistador Variants	19 M1	Aid
12	Waterloo Road	16	Unknown 310m
13	Waterloo Road Direct	16	Unknown 300m
14	Napoleon	15	Unknown 150m
15	The Ninth of January	19	Unknown 160m
16	Fleur-de-lis	14	Unknown 210m
17	Fleur-de-lis Alternative Start	13	Unknown 33m
18	North-east Passage	16	Unknown 300m
19	Brisbane Line	18	Unknown 300m
20	The Lorax - Conquistador Connection	19	Unknown 55m

1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs 24 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Honeysuckle Divine	15	Unknown 35m
2	La Grande Pump	21	Unknown 60m
3	Gwendolen Buttress	8	Unknown 200m
4	Electra On the buttress in front of face. First pitch excellent rock and gear 40m, 2nd pitch 60m and not so good. Scary descent off back	17	Trad 100m	Vanessa Wills 2 years ago Excellent first pitch. Amazing glassy quartzite
5	Pillar Face	15	Unknown 240m
6	Pillar Face Variant No 1	15	Unknown
7	Pillar Face Variant No 2	15	Unknown
8	Solomons Sanctuary	12 M2	Aid 180m
9	Deviant Imagination	20	Unknown 50m
10	For Susan	20	Unknown 50m
11	Unnamed 1	21	Unknown 50m
12	Unnamed 2	22	Unknown 50m
13	Unnamed 3	21	Unknown 45m
14	Fox 'n' Socks	17	Unknown 45m
15	Teetering Tower Ridge	12	Unknown 100m
16	Surf Slab	12	Unknown 69m
17	Board Shorts, Bored Shorts	16	Unknown
18	Breakfast of Champions	17	Unknown 30m
19	Squeaky	17	Unknown 45m
20	Pleasant Dreams	15	Unknown 45m
21	Robinsons' Ramble	15	Unknown 55m
22	The Pawn of Doom	19	Unknown 25m
23	The Enlightenment	21	Unknown 48m
24	Thus Spake Zarathustra	22	Unknown 110m

1.2. Sharlands Peak 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Unknown

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Northern Staircase	10	Unknown 180m
2		Northern Staircase Variant	14	Unknown

1.3. White Needle 2 routes in Area

Summary:: All Unknown

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		Ordinary Route	6	Unknown 200m		Stephen White 6 years ago great views
2		West Face Route		Unknown

1.4. Philips Peak 3 routes in Area

Summary:: All Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style
1	The Gendarme Ridge	10	Unknown
2	Scimitar Spur	12	Unknown 500m
3	The Kriss	12	Unknown 45m

1.5. Lake Tahune Signpost 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Unknown

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		25 Kilograms of Pain for 25 Seconds of Pleasure	21	Unknown 12m

1.6. Tahune Face 7 routes in Area

Summary:: Mostly Unknown

	Route	Grade	Style	Selected ascents
1	Tierry le Fronde	16	Trad 150m	topher 1 years ago With Jed Vanessa Wills 2 years ago 3pm start, evening summit, lovely NY eve. Shame about my upset guts....
2	Tierry le Fronde Direct Start	16	Unknown 45m
3	Tierry le Fronde Direct Variant	17	Unknown 25m
4	Deceptive Gully	12	Unknown 120m
5	Shame of the Warrior	18	Unknown 130m
6	Tierry le Fronde Alternative Start	19	Unknown 65m
7	Groundrush	20	Unknown 170m

1.7. East Face 1 route in Area

Summary:: All Unknown

		Route	Grade	Style	Popularity	Selected ascents
1		De Gaulles Direct FA: Adam Donoghue Gareth Llewellin, 2008	25	Unknown 50m		Gareth Llewellin 5 years ago Wow. Mind blowing. Unbelievable good climbing on even better rock.

2. Index by grade

Grade	Name	Style	Area
6	Ordinary Route	Unknown 200m	1.3. White Needle
8	Gwendolen Buttress	Unknown 200m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
10	Southern Parapet	Unknown 200m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Northern Staircase	Unknown 180m	1.2. Sharlands Peak
	The Gendarme Ridge	Unknown	1.4. Philips Peak
12	Western Slab Route	Unknown 150m	1.1.2. South-West Wall
	Surf Slab	Unknown 69m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Teetering Tower Ridge	Unknown 100m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Scimitar Spur	Unknown 500m	1.4. Philips Peak
	The Kriss	Unknown 45m	1.4. Philips Peak
	Deceptive Gully	Unknown 120m	1.6. Tahune Face
12 M2	Solomons Sanctuary	Aid 180m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
13	South-east Summit and Twisted owers	Unknown	1.1.1. Twisted Towers
	Western Slab Route Alternate Finish	Unknown	1.1.2. South-West Wall
	Fleur-de-lis Alternative Start	Unknown 33m	1.1.3. South-East Face
14	Fleur-de-lis	Unknown 210m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	The Sydney Route Direct Start	Unknown 62m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Northern Staircase Variant	Unknown	1.2. Sharlands Peak
15	Napoleon	Unknown 150m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Honeysuckle Divine	Unknown 35m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Pillar Face	Unknown 240m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Pillar Face Variant No 1	Unknown	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Pillar Face Variant No 2	Unknown	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Pleasant Dreams	Unknown 45m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Robinsons' Ramble	Unknown 55m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
16	North-east Passage	Unknown 300m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	The Melbourne Variant	Unknown 370m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	The Sydney Route	Alpine 380m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Waterloo Road	Unknown 310m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Waterloo Road Direct	Unknown 300m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Board Shorts, Bored Shorts	Unknown	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Tierry le Fronde	Trad 150m	1.6. Tahune Face
	Tierry le Fronde Direct Start	Unknown 45m	1.6. Tahune Face
16 M4	Valerie	Aid 400m	1.1.3. South-East Face
17	The Chimes of Freedom	Alpine 270m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Breakfast of Champions	Unknown 30m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Electra	Trad 100m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Fox 'n' Socks	Unknown 45m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Squeaky	Unknown 45m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Tierry le Fronde Direct Variant	Unknown 25m	1.6. Tahune Face
18	Brisbane Line	Unknown 300m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Shame of the Warrior	Unknown 130m	1.6. Tahune Face
19	The Lorax - Conquistador Connection	Unknown 55m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	The Ninth of January	Unknown 160m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	The Pawn of Doom	Unknown 25m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Tierry le Fronde Alternative Start	Unknown 65m	1.6. Tahune Face
19 M1	Conquistador Variants	Aid	1.1.3. South-East Face
20	Conquistador	Unknown 360m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	The Lorax	Unknown 390m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Deviant Imagination	Unknown 50m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	For Susan	Unknown 50m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Groundrush	Unknown 170m	1.6. Tahune Face
21	La Grande Pump	Unknown 60m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	The Enlightenment	Unknown 48m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Unnamed 1	Unknown 50m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Unnamed 3	Unknown 45m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	25 Kilograms of Pain for 25 Seconds of Pleasure	Unknown 12m	1.5. Lake Tahune Signpost
22	The Great Flake	Unknown 370m	1.1.3. South-East Face
	Thus Spake Zarathustra	Unknown 110m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
	Unnamed 2	Unknown 50m	1.1.4. North-West Wall and Environs
23	The De Gaulle's Nose Route	Unknown 330m	1.1.3. South-East Face
25	De Gaulles Direct	Unknown 50m	1.7. East Face
?	South-west Wall Chimney	Unknown	1.1.2. South-West Wall
	West Face Route	Unknown	1.3. White Needle

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Crag Guide for Frenchmans Cap