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Summary

Sport with a touch of Top, Trad and Bouldering.

Description

Popular suburban location with easy access and a good handful of intermediate routes.

Approach

Park on Tara St, in the lot over the bridge. It's a 2 minute walk from there.

Routes

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Grade Route

This has now been bolted.

A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.

FA: T. Caldwell & S. Claus, 2012

If you're too short to do the Anaphalaxis dyno then use the good initial hold to move left to bolt and then up to the horizontal break and finish as for Anaphalaxis.

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

Large boulder to the right of the sport climbs. There is a low wave wall on the north side of the boulder. Start on the right hand side of the wave on jugs, move left to big sloper, bust to jugs and top out.

Start very low on the far right of the boulder on big jug and low feet, bust out to the start of the V2 then finish. Fun but low.

A good fingery traverse starts at the two finger pocket about 5m right of the start of PE and continues via pockety moves to SE. When the start of SE is reached, do the first tricky move of SE to reach the horizontal. Do about one move along the horizontal to the right from where your feet can reach the nice footholds on JJ and then get down onto the holds of JJ. There is a nice layaway pointing left and then a shallow pocket. From here continue right past A to finish at the start of PL. The traverse can also be done in reverse. Try and link up both directions if you don't feel the effects of lactic acid. Also there are extensions on either end.

Gun Ho - The first few moves of the various climbs can be done as boulder problems as a lot of the climbs have cruxy moves in the first 4 metres or so!

Suck Ethics

Jack Jumper

Anaphalaxis

Play Lunch

Wasted Daze

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