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Summary

Sport with a touch of Top, Trad and Bouldering.

Description

Popular suburban location with easy access and a good handful of intermediate routes.

Routes

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Grade Route
1
18 Mononeuron Top rope 23m
2
24 Leger Frenzy Top rope 18m
4
21 Plastic Extras Sport 18m

This has now been bolted.

5
21 Plastic Erection Sport 18m
6
25 The Chodd Sport 18m
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27 Cadwallada Sport 15m
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27 ** Dildo Gaggin's Sport 15m

A sustained link-up that guarantees a good workout. Start up Gun Ho, stepping L at jugs, finishing up Cadwallada. Dynamic, technical with a heartbreaking finish.

FA: T. Caldwell, S. Claus, 2012

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26 *** Gun Ho Sport 15m
10
25 *** Suck Ethics Sport 15m, 6
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27 Jack Jumper Top rope 15m
12

If you're too short to do the Anaphalaxis dyno then use the good initial hold to move left to bolt and then up to the horizontal break and finish as for Anaphalaxis.

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24 ** Anaphalaxis Sport 15m, 5
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24 Play Launch Sport 15m, 6
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24 Wasted Daze Sport 15m
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26 Mozzie Fodder Top rope 15m
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22 * Dazed and Confused Sport 17m, 5
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22 * General Benefit Sport 15m, 4
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20 General Discipline Sport 18m, 4

Start up Bondage and Discipline until the roof. Then climb straight up on good but well spaced holds (a little harder if your short) & finish at General Benefit chains.

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20 Bondage and Discipline Sport 18m, 4
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23 Bad Habits Sport 18m, 4
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23 Genital Thrust Sport 15m
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21 Gibbon Tactics Top rope 15m
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25 This is Steep Mum Top rope 18m
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Large boulder to the right of the sport climbs. There is a low wave wall on the north side of the boulder. Start on the right hand side of the wave on jugs, move left to big sloper, bust to jugs and top out.

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V3 * Big Mutha Trucker Boulder

Start very low on the far right of the boulder on big jug and low feet, bust out to the start of the V2 then finish. Fun but low.

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V5 * Fruehauf Traverse Boulder

A good fingery traverse starts at the two finger pocket about 5m right of the start of PE and continues via pockety moves to SE. When the start of SE is reached, do the first tricky move of SE to reach the horizontal. Do about one move along the horizontal to the right from where your feet can reach the nice footholds on JJ and then get down onto the holds of JJ. There is a nice layaway pointing left and then a shallow pocket. From here continue right past A to finish at the start of PL. The traverse can also be done in reverse. Try and link up both directions if you don't feel the effects of lactic acid. Also there are extensions on either end.

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V4 GH Boulder

Gun Ho - The first few moves of the various climbs can be done as boulder problems as a lot of the climbs have cruxy moves in the first 4 metres or so!

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V3 SE Boulder

Suck Ethics

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V5 JJ Boulder

Jack Jumper

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V3 A Boulder

Anaphalaxis

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V3 PL Boulder

Play Lunch

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V3 WD Boulder

Wasted Daze

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