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Routes East (to the right walking down) of the scree slope track that heads down from the car park.

All the climbs are listed from the far left side to the right side as you face the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Frog Buttress

Access to Frog was recently restricted due to a phytophthora outbreak.

The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread.of the disease.

For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

Ethic inherited from Frog Buttress

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


Add route(s) Add topo Resequence Bulk edit
Grade Route
22 ** Parasite Drag Trad 22m

Hard to stay out of Noose! Thin climbing up the arete. Up a short crack to the ledge, the piton fell out years ago, luckily small wires provide adequate pro. Tricky moves lead to the fixed hanger. Finish direct up a small corner.

FA: Joe Lynch, Dave Demnar, Margret Smith, 1982

18 Noose Trad 22m

The main crack splitting the pillar with a right trending diagonal. The difficulties lie in the first diagonal section, and getting established in the crack. The body crack can be avoided by climbing the face to the left.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

15 Hanging Tree Trad 20m

Not the best climb at Frog! Climb the second crack right of Noose to a small ledge. From there go straight up with a desperate mantle to finish. Belay at the small tree.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

17 * Erectile Kingpin Trad 16m

Go up the twin edged corner to a stance on the large ledge. From there, strenuous jamming up the left facing corner to another ledge. Then easily to the rap chain.

FA: Rick White, John Hattink - (Dave Gilleson -), 1972

24 *** Plate Tectonics Trad 18m

Brilliant! A sustained and somewhat committing climb which features thing holds and excellent protection. Step R off the ledge from EK to the first carrot. Continue up past a second bolt, and then a long way to a piton under the right side of a tiny rooflet (can be backed up with a green "Alien"). From there, step left and up the obvious crack to finish.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Andrew Barry, 1983

23 De Facto Trad 18m

Barely independent of MP. A strenuous start up the thin seam just right of PT leads to a good stance. Up this through gently overhanging terrain on very poor pro. Finish up the widening crack. Not recommended.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From (avoided crux -) - Kim Carrigan added direct., 1978


A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. A test piece at the grade.

FA: Ross Allan, Rick White, 1970

14 R * Electric Lead Trad 26m

Brilliant climbing, one of the best 14s that Frog has to offer. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the tree; stars apply if you finish here. If you must, continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

FA: Steve Bell & Ian Cameron

17 ** Wizards Back Trad 10m

A stunning and thoroughly recommended finish to the two preceeding routes. Step warily off the ledge onto the right wall with a crescent moon shaped crack (watch the factor 2 fall off the ledge). Proceed up with much joy, and even more exposure!

FA: Kevin Pearl, Bob Ferguson, 1977

22 Yeah, Yeah, Yeah! Trad 28m

A lot scarier now that the 1st piton has fallen out. Start up EL, but step R out of the cave, and up to a stance at a bolt. Go up to the eerie piton hole (gear possible), and continue up the arete to the second piton. Finish directly up the nose.

FA: Andrew Barry, Robbie Allen, Gordon Bieske, 1983

15 Iron Butterfly Trad 28m

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with Great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m.. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route..

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett

13 First Layback Trad 12m

Start up SAW, step left and up onto a ledge. From here either scramble off R, or finish up the easy corner of IB. Not very good.

FA: Mac Thompson & Ron Collett


Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!

FA: Alan Millband & Ron Collett; Alan Millband, Ron Collett

17 R The Big O Trad 12m

Complete crap with a large ledge below very poor pro. If the kamikaze in you must do this, go up the ledges left of WA, and do a layback sequence up the friable flakes to the ledge.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Brian MacArthur, 1981

16 * Winston Alley Trad 10m

A great little climb and a good introduction to sustained bridging. The obvious corner left of Tardis. A hard 1st move gets you to a stance. From there, keep going with constant surprises to the top. Excellent gear throughout.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Ian Thomas, 1977

23 Vis-à-Vis Trad 10m

Contrived to say the least. Climb the arete to the right of WA past a bolt runner, without stepping into either of the surrounding climbs. There are far better routes to be climbed!

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

13 Tardis Trad 10m

Solid for the grade. Up the steep little corner, then take the left of the 2 grooves from the stance at 1/2 height. Excellent protection helps soothe the nerves.

FA: Steve Bell & Barry Overs

16 Dunston Trad 12m

Horrible. Looks a lot better than it is. The wide flake and crack to the left of Century.

FA: Unknown's, 1970

16 Century Trad 15m

A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1970

17 R * A Hundred and One Trad 12m

A bold lead. Thin, strenous and poorly protected moves feature throughout this route up the face just right of Century. From the tree step R, pray, and continue upwards on very thin moves. Falling on the gear available is not recommended.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Brian MacArthur, 1981

Rickety Kate Pillar

The following four (4) climbs are located on the detached pillar directly above Winston Alley.

This pillar can be accesses by climbing any of the routes from "First Layback" to "Tardis".

20 *** Rickety Kate Trad 15m

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

FA: John Hattink, Rick White - Ray Lassman, Mike Meadows (FTRA: Dec), 1973

18 Kronk Trad 6m

Yet another case of putting a route up just to get your name in the guide! The climb steps left at the ledge after RK corner, and has one hardish move to the chain on the tree. Good for a change of scene.

FA: Stuart Camps, Evan Bieske, 1983

23 Cocont Ice Trad 15m

Barely seperate climbing R of RK. On clipping the bolt, step down and R, then up on this flakes and holds to the top. Place pro in RK to keep it sane.

FA: John Pearson, Scott Camps, 1986

22 ** Bloody Mary Trad 16m

Often neglected. Very good climbing up a steeper than expected line. 2 possible starts are featured. Coming in from the left up past the hollow flakes and the rooflet is not recommended. The better alternative is to step in from the R on good holds. From here, up an Arapiles style crack system, unfortunately marred by loose and hollow flakes in one small section. Worth doing.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Peter Fisk (Joe Lynch Jan- Direct Start), 1983

Below Rickety Kate Pillar

The next routes start from below Rickety Kate Pillar, on the ground level and to the right.


Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top.

FA: Barry Overs & Steve Bell

17 Side-pocket Shot Trad 15m

The crack 1m R of HDZ. Grunt up this on good gear to a stance and ledge at half height. Continue up the right face (completely unprotected), or alternatively finish up the easy corner system on top of HDZ. Star only applies for the "non-death variant".

FA: Joe Lynch, Margeret Smith, 1982

13 Electric Mud Trad 10m

A great beginner's lead. Up the easy corner with mountains of great gear to be found. Pause for a moment to ponder the tricky exit move, flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

FA: Ian Cameron &Chris Knudsen; Ian Cameron, Chris Knudson

23 * Gum Nut Trad 11m

Climb straight up the arete immediately R of EM. One bolt shows the way. Protection can be found by stepping L and putting gear in EM (desperate). Delicate and fun climbing.

FA: Brian Courtney, 1983

22 ** The Acorn Tree Trad 12m

A great second pitch to GN. Starts about 10m R of the Rickety Kate pillar. Desperate moves off the ledge gain the first of 2 bolts. Delicate and technically challenging moves to the top, spacious protection!

FA: Scott Camps, Philip Waters, 1986

14 Moll Trad 25m

Absolutely disgusting climbing up the chimney to the R of GN. Many loose boulders, crap moves and thick vegetation all make this an absolute joy on some weird and sick planet.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1969

22 No Name Trad 12m

A crappy little wall with holds that occasionally stay attached! The short orange wall about 10m right of Moll has one bolt. Once above this, go up and right on good holds.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Malcolm Matheson, 1983


More dodgy moves up loose and dirty rock. The lichen and choss filled corner to the right of NN.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

14 Shit Heap Trad 10m

Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing.

FA: Ian Cameron & Rick White; Ian Cameron, Rick White

22 * Parallel Universe Trad 18m

Start up TSLD until the rest under the hanging arete. Plug in a nest of gear, whimper a little, then veer up and left running it out a long, long way until the horizontal break. Cry with relief, put in some 'thank god' gear, and continue easily to the top. Rap as for TSLD. Very run out.

FA: Ross Ferguson Gareth Llewellin


Classic face climbing. The thin seam takes you to a good stance at half height. Up the strenuous corner and airily onto the face. Continue shakily on (mostly) good holds. Easily to the top. Rap chain on the ledge.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From, 1978

15 Mechanical Prune Trad 18m

Quite good. Varied techniques are required to ascend this fine corner. Up the groove past a tree, then to an awkward constriction. Thrutch up this like a madman, or step onto the R face and skip the difficulties.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows

17 Dynamite Trad 18m

Not a beginner lead! Start at MP and veer right up the shallow seam. There are good placements to be found, but they are quite small, and a little fiddly. Continue up the face with quiet desperation and dodgy wires until the ledge cones to hand. Step L and finish up MP. The original route started up the thin seam on the R face, and was graded 22.

FA: Rob Stazsewski, 1979

11 R Condor Trad 18m

Disgusting leading up a crappy line to an even more grunty body chimney! Numerous holds and chock stones have fallen out of this route over the years, and the route has been reduced from one of class to that of complete infamy. Belay from MP chains.

FA: Ian Cameron & Chris Knudsen

18 Last Picture Show Trad 22m

Not a great addition to the cliff. Up Condor for a while (you have already been warned!). Step R into a horrible, wide, groin-breaking, wide V-groove with not a lot of good protection.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Thomas, 1974

20 Back Row Trad 12m

Weird! Wanders up a pile of ledges to the same ledge that Fawlty Towers finishes on. Numerous short corners and cracks of varying lengths and widths follow, protection and rock are good. Still a bit of a "Gardener's Delight".

FA: Rick White, Paul Edwards, 1979


The first bolted route at Frog! Kim Carrigan promptly skipped the bolt on the second ascent, reclaiming the hardness of Frog from the bolt-clipping infidels! Starts at the small crack 3m L of MPFC (although most parties start from the ledge above). Off-balance moves up the thin diagonal crack to an awkward move into a sentry box to gain a rest. From here, clip the bolt, step R, and blast straight up the face to easier ground.

FA: Joe Lynch, Dave Demnar, 1981


Thin, fingery and reachy direct start to BAN. Not the greatest but worth doing if you're in the area. Up the face 2m L of MPFC, follow the bolts.

FA: Matt Hutton

21 Boris and Natasha Trad 22m

Shaky climbing on friable holds. Up the bottom crack of YUTV to a ledge. Lean out R and clip the bolt. Step down and traverse out R to the arete. From here, bowel quivering moves lead past another bolt, and some questionable RP's to the top.

FA: John Pearson, Chris Frost, Bill Lukin, 1987


Really good. The desperate blank V-groove once had a piton in it, although the "Ethics Police" removed it... 3 times! (It had been climbed for 15 years without need of a piton!) Despite appearances, the groove can be climbed quite safely using friction, prayer and a whole bunch of RP's and micro cams. Flop onto the ledge, whimper and gaze upwards! From here a magnificent corner featuring 3 cracks and classic climbing await you.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Cameron, 1972


A variant finish to MPFC. Start up MPFC, from the ledge turn away from the amazing corner on the left and tear up the grotty crack on the right wall.

FA: Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

22 * Fawlty Towers Trad 10m

Step off the ledge where MPFC finishes, behind a large tree to a corner system on an obscure buttress, capped by a small roof at 3m. Traverse shakily R under this to a ledge. Balancy and technical moves upward bring a smile to your face!

FA: Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

18 X Death Road 2,000 Trad 22m

Complete crap. The horrible blank line 3m R of MPFC actually looks a lot better than it is (which is really saying something). Climb directly up the line over numerous loose blocks, piles of dirt and the bones of the last maniac who was desperate enough to lead such utter mank.

FA: Allen Hansen, Ray Lassman, 1984

19 * Peaches and Cream Trad 20m

Some people really like this climb; I don't. Climb the shallow corner 5m R of DR2000 and then follow the line. Fiddly pro and dirty rock add to the experience. Belay either hanging from the tree (desperate but strangely cool), or get onto the ledge R of the tree and belay from there.

FA: Bill Noris, Sally Norris, 1980

15 R Tarzans Dilemma Trad 20m

Tarzan was on drugs! The dirty groove past a tree to a ledge. Continue up the corner R of PC. Keep going up the mank until you want to either stop, or kill yourself from getting on such utter rubbish.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1969

22 Boltophobia Arete Trad 8m

The crappy little arete in between TD and AG. It features one crotch destroying high step, and that's about it! Gear can be found in the corner to the R (AG).

13 R Asbestos Grapefruit Trad 22m

The second masterpiece in the "lord of the crap climbs" trilogy. Up the corner R of BA. Continue up a broken and heavily vegetated line, with loose rocks thrown in for free!

FA: Steve Bell, Ron Collett, 1969

15 R Let it Bleed Trad 25m

Scott Camps summed it up best when he said "Let it be Forgotten". Up to a short tricky corner in the vertical jungle. It's so bad that it actually makes AG look like a good alternative!

FA: Steve Bell, Dave Kahler, 1972

20 Yokomo Trad 15m

Really good, but very short. Boulder up the shallow corner on small gear to the ledge. A few moves up the grunty corner take you to the next ledge. Carefully up loose gully to DMEG anchor.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983


Classic climbing. Start up Yokomo, and at the ledge take a deep breath, swing out onto the arete and up to a stance and a carrot bolt. The bolt looks to be in the wrong place, but is exactly where you need it! A high runner is possible in Yokomo to stop decking out. From there, fantastic and constantly absorbing climbing leads to the top. RPs are essential at the top.

FA: Simon Vallings, Russell Chudleigh, 1984

16 Mainliner Trad 20m

Pretty tough little climb, but well worth it. Up the pillar to the perfect line. Blast up this to a desperate mantle onto the ledge. From there up easily.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969


Bridge the pillar and crack line up to a good stance. Step R into the crack and up. Brilliant jamming. Go R up the gully to the abseil tree.

FA: Rob Stazsewski, Richard Sullivan, 1971


Great finger locking up a thin seam. A little tricky to protect lay backing, but well worth the trip. Quite technical and strenuous.

FA: Fred From, 1977


At the ledge, keep going straight up the scooped arete, as opposed to stepping off R to the tree. Good for a change of scene, but that's about it.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Stuart Camps, Dave Moss, Odette Moss, 1983


The super thin finger crack to the right of DMEG. Short and pumpy, the difficulties are over within a few moves. Rap as for DMEG.

FA: Dave Moss and party., 1982


Hard to find. Starts high in the mank below (R as you face the cliff) the tourist lookout. Climb up a short crack on a small orange faced buttress. From the horizontal, launch directly up the face.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1983


The crappy corner to the right of TFYP is a close contender for the "worst route on the cliff" award. A single move among the bushes and mank may be found.

FA: Steve Bell, Ron Collett, 1969

20 R Cut Short Trad 13m

Crappy and dangerous. The corner found on the L side of the dark buttress to the R of DSEB. Up this and then traverse off L.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Robbie Allen, 1982

19 R Cheetah Trad 10m

The R hand line on the same buttress. Disgusting, confused climbing that goes nowhere.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1982

9 R Fluorescent Mank Trad 25m

Why would you do this to yourself? Strap on a chainsaw, gloves and helmet... then thrash for glory up the line of least vegetation and mank to the top of the broken amphitheatre.

FA: Dave Gilleson, 1969

11 R Revolution Trad 30m

A revolution goes around and around, constantly smacking you in the face. Well named! A horrible moss-laden chimney at the start is a fair indication of the quality of broken rock and climbing that is to follow.

FA: Marilyn Dall, Pat Prentergast, 1969

18 Thing Trad 5m

Left of Erg is a 5m block. Boulder the L arete of this to the top. Good climbing, but falling would not be pleasant.

FA: Kevin Pearl, 1979

20 ** Erg Trad 25m

One of the most impressive lines on the cliff. Bridge up the line until the pillar stops. Step into the crack and blast up the ever widening crack. Chock stones and large gear can protect the top body chimney adequately.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1973

22 *** Erg Direct Trad 25m

Brilliant, the way to go if you can climb the grade. Up the finger crack without bridging.


A good way to avoid the body chimney of Erg. Step L into a short finger crack and blast up this to the top. Quite good.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Natalie Green, 1983

25 ** Hard Nose Trad 25m

Classic arete climbing. Go up BL, step out L at the fixed hanger. Blast up the arete past 2 more hangers while your right arm gets the workout of the century! Finish up BL.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

26 ** Hard Nose DS Unknown 5m

Even better than Hard Nose. Step out L a little lower to a square cut hold on the arete. Clip the carrot bolt and proceed to wobble up 4m of balancy desperation bringing amazing movement and positions to hand.

22 *** Black Light Trad 25m

Brilliant climbing up and amazing line. A thin and bouldery start leads to a searing corner of unsurpassed quality. Thin hand jams and finger locks lead exhaustingly to a ledge. From there, continue easily to the belay tree.

FA: Ian Lewis, Rick White, 1975

18 R Blood of the Christ Trad 25m

Not so good. Thrutch and jam up the initial corner system until it eases in the middle. Head up the crack and round the overhang to the ledge. The protection is ample, but fiddly and awkward to place on the lead. Rap from tree.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

22 *** Child in Time Trad 25m

Simply amazing. A tough start leads to one of the most sustained and awesome climbs imaginable. The gear throughout is bombproof, and the climb itself is a contender for the best route on the cliff, regardless of grade.

FA: FA White/Cais 1973, FFA Barber 1975

28 ** Debrilla Trad 25m

Originally named "Dobrilla" by ML after a friend, a typo in the guide resulted in Debrilla.

An awesome climb featuring strenuous and unique movement to gain the top. Mixed wires and bolt protection lead the way, with a desperate arete slapping technique similar to bear hugging fridges required to gain the jug. Finish up CIT

FA: Mike Law, 1988


A hardish move onto the ledge (step in from the R) gains a rest. From here blast up the unrelenting twin crack system until your arms and legs wish to explode! Gain a slight rest under a bulge, and then blissfully climb the single crack to the ledge. Walk L through the cave/chimney to rap off as for BC.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

21 ** Venom Trad 25m

Classic off-width thrashing up a glass smooth overhanging crack line... surprisingly unpopular really! Finish up a finger crack. It is very difficult not to step on or kick your gear out of place on the way up. Football jersey, jeans and knee pads are optional! Climbed by Ted Cais and Ian Thomas with one rest and avoiding the direct finish in July 1973.

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

16 Fat Mattress Trad 30m

Start up Venom and step R at 3m. Bridge up a slightly overhanging corner crack system to a ledge. Crank hard off the ledge to get up the next hand crack with some difficulty, then to a rest. Easily to the top. Bolt anchor/belay. Used to be graded 15!! The direct start still awaits a clean ascent. Climbed by Rick White and Ian Cameron by aiding the start in Jan 1971.

FA: Steve Bell, 1972


FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2007

24 Swashbuckler Trad 15m
15 Holy Ghost Trad 15m

The disgusting body chimney R of FM. Destroy your body, grunting up this disgusting excuse for climbing, finish as for FM.

FA: Rick White (solo), 1971

24 Keep Left Trad 15m

Brutal climbing, sustained and difficult. Crank up the smooth line, all sorts of lay-aways and locks are required to grunt up this one.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Greg Child, 1978


Desperate and grunty finger locking up a glass smooth corner. It can be made considerably easier by use of the "secret" foot jamming technique. Buy Rob a beer at the pub for all the info!

FA: Nic Taylor, Rob Staszewski, Rick White, 1976

23 The Anti-Crookneck Trad 20m

A good second pitch to the two previous routes. The ridiculously blank looking corner 5m L of KL with 2 pitons is where this mission starts! From there continue desperately until it is possible to wobble R to easier ground. Step L when able to, and finish steeply up the L side of the arete. Double ropes are thoroughly recommended for this lead.

FA: Fred From, Joe Lynch, 1983

25 *** Carrion Comfort Trad 25m

Named "Forever Young" by Rob when he freed the line... although it had already been named Carrion Comfort by the FA party! A visionary effort by Rob Staszewski, and, for a long time, the hardest route put up by a local climber. Desperate locking and laybacks lead the way up the leaning corner. Great gear can be found, stopping to place it is the trick! Rap off a small fig tree. A test piece for any aspiring crack master!

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1979

27 Catcher in the Rye Trad 25m

Super thin face climbing up the shallow V-groove. A high runner in Inquisition can reduce the potential for gravity to slap you about. Top rope the initial section (achieved by using The Force/levitation), then go up the sustained corner.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

19 ** Inquisition Trad 25m

Really good climbing that deserves to be more popular. Follow the crack system to the large ledge. From here, blast up the off-width corner, stopping to wonder how people stay attached to WK! Step R up a face crack, and then to an easy but loose finish. Number 4-6 cams (BD) or big bros are essential to do this route safely.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1973

32 *** Whistling Kite Trad 30m

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

FA: Paul Smith, 1988


Start off the pillar below WK. Grunt up the initial off-width with a shaky cam keeping things sane. A line of bolts leads the way up this route with stunning positions and insanely classy movement throughout. The top section is quite run out, and very thin.

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner

20 * Cannabis Crack Trad 35m

Brutal grunting up a visciously smooth corner. It also features quite a tricky start. All in all, there are far better routes to go and beat yourself up upon!

FA: Trevor Gynther, Ian Thomas, 1975


A classic grunt up a great line with a tree at half height. Quite strenuous and difficult in places, but excellent protection is available throughout. Head R at the top. Originally graded 15! Has been the scene of several serious falls.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

26 *** Future Tense Trad 40m

Climb up BST until the tree. The original start up the desperate line 1m to the R is so thin and under protected that it has never been repeated. From the tree, step up and R to follow the increasingly difficult line. Desperate, thin climbing featuring one hell of a sting in the tail!

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

22 R * Badfinger Trad 30m

Quite challenging. A hard start to an off-width crack. From here blast up a pleasant finger crack taking a well-earned rest on a ledge. Jam up to a tree, then climb a fear-inducing face to easy finish.

FA: Henry Barber, John Fantini, 1975

27 ** The Lords Prayer Trad 30m

With under 10 ascents in 21 years this is definitely a route not to be taken lightly! On one early attempt, Ian Cameron pulled off a 20m lead fall!!! Incredibly thin edging (to the point of requiring levitation abilities) up the steep face split by a micro seam. Micro cams and RPs provide adequate but spacious protection.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1973

19 Blody Red Rooster Trad 25m

Complete and utter mank. A vine-filled pile of crap that should never have been climbed.

FA: Joe Friend, Kim Carrigan, 1973

23 ** Satanic Majesty Trad 30m

Blast up for a few moves then traverse L to a diagonal crack. Strenuous jams that don't quite work as well as you want to provide barrels of fun! The steep hand crack above is superb!

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

27 * Hallowed Ground Trad 30m

A visionary effort by Matt. The improbably thin line to the right of SM provides good movement on very thin holds throughout. Superb positions and style, with Matt's "at least you won't hit the deck" bolt spacing technique providing loads of spice!! A little contrived, but worth a lap.

FA: Matt Hutton, 2003

16 R Our Father Trad 45m

A long and brutal expedition with no real rewards for the effort. Start as for SM, then thrash your way up the never-ending corner of doom! A great climb for those who are into self-inflicted pain and suffering.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1970

19 R Suggestive Poses Trad 25m

FA: Joe Lynch, Roger Bourne, Margert Smith, 1983


FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White. Rick White, Ian Cameron ., 1970

22 ** Steel Fingers Trad 40m

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

20 * Rack and Ruin Trad 40m

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

20 * Lord of the Flies Trad 40m

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976


Originally the only way to do the route free.

FA: Ted Cais, 1974


Was the scene of a freak accident in 2006.

Climber survived a ground fall after his rope was sliced in two by the sharp edge.

FA: Ted Cais, Jim Bright, Rick White, 1973


FA: Trevor Gynther, Rhys Davies, 1973

15 Syrius Trad 20m

FA: Rick White, Barry Overs, 1971

22 Snipe Trad 23m

FA: Robbie Allen, Marty Beare, 1983

20 ** Pollux Trad 23m

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1974

16 * Castor Trad 22m

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

25 Elven Castle Sport 25m


FA: Matt

25 ** The Elven King Trad 25m

FA: Matt Hutton, Kerrod Davidson., 2001

14 * Theory Trad 25m

A doubled 50m rope will get you down from the tree.

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett; Rick White, Ron Collett; Rick White, Ron Collett

18 * Sacrilege Crack Trad 25m

Someone once got their leg stuck in this crack and had to call the SES.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1972

Theory Ledge

This ledge features some classic climbs and is a great way to spend an afternoon. The ledge can be approached by climbing any of the climbs between 'Onlooker's Omelette Left Side' and 'The Elven King'.

Alternatively a tree marked with "FC" in its trunk shows the way to the rap into the ledge from the top. It should be mentioned that the tree is a little hard to find the first time, so look hard.

16 Forked Tongue Trad 15m

Off the far left of 'Theory' Ledge.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1973

16 Moonlighter Trad 15m

Right of 'Forked Tongue'.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

17 R Gangrene Trad 15m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Gordon Bieske, 1982

19 Off the Wall Trad 13m

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976

22 Slippin' Away Trad 13m

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

18 * Farty Clacker Trad 12m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Dave Moss, 1982

19 ** Southern Comfort Trad 15m

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976


FA: Merry and Dan (NZ), 2009

20 Into the Fire Trad 12m

Fist cracking hanging out the right side of 'Theory' Ledge. This route no longer exists as it fell to the bottom of the cliff.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

Right of Sacrilege Crack

Back on ground level and to the right of 'Sacrilege Crack'.

14 R Grandma's Tonic Mixed 18m, 1

Upward jungle swing...

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron

16 R * Sabrasucker Trad 18m

Rap off 'Theory' Ledge.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rob Staszewski

Above Sabrasucker

The next 5 routes are above and to the right of 'Sabrasucker'.

16 R Worthless Trad 15m

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1976


No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

21 R Sister Boogie Woman Trad 15m

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984


FA: Paul Grey, Stuart Camps, 1984

22 Slough Stuff Trad 12m

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984

Past Sabrasucker

This sector is back on the ground (Walking Track) Level starting to the right of 'Sabrasucker' and heading back towards the scree slope.

20 * Famous Cosmetics Trad 40m

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1978

17 Phatang Trad 40m

FA: Rick White, Trevor Gynther, 1972

22 R Delilah Trad 40m

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

22 R Ride Me High Trad 40m

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

22 Face Ache Trad 12m

Reached by climbing either of the previous two routes.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Andrew Barry, 1982


FA: Gordon Bieske, Robbie Allen, 1982

24 *** Impulse Trad 25m

A contender for the best climb at the crag.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (YoYo), 1978


FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979


The second route ever climbed at the cliff.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

18 *** Borderline 29 Trad 15m

Arete on the left from the belay ledge on LLL.

FA: Mike Law ('s), 1970


Right form the belay ledge on LLL.

FA: Dave Moss, Paul Hoskins, 1983


Direct start of LLL.

FA: Ross Allen, Bill Atkinson., 1970

25 Irky Perky Trad 30m

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

21 Close to the Edge Trad 35m

FA: Greg Child, Keith Bell., 1975


FA: Kim Carrigan., 1981

22 Anal Teens Trad 35m

FA: Dave Moss, Marty Beare, Rick White, 1980


FA: Trevor (pineapple-eater) Gynther, John Fantini., 1975


FA: Paul Hoskins, Joe Lynch, 1983

23 Bongos Direct Trad 25m

Another Andrew Barry classic?

FA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1983

20 * Corner of Eden Trad 35m

First route done on the cliff by Rick White and Chris Meadows with two aids in Aug 1968.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais., 1973

23 R Ground to a Halt Trad 14m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Shepherd., 1982


FA: Rick White, 1973

23 R * Sticky Date Trad 10m

The blunt arete right of EP. Potential for dead branch in rectum if you fall off the crux.

Start: Do first 2m of Egotistical 'Pineapple' then right onto the arete.

FA: Two carrots added by Roger Bourne. Possibly previously top roped by Hoskins., 1995

23 Guilt By Association Sport 10m

It is a 10m high blunt arete with two BR's to finish at the same ledge as EP. It either scoots into Egotistical after the last bolt (which makes it pretty short) or goes staight up arete (v hard and contrived). Neither makes for a great route apparently.

11 Parsons Pleasure Trad 10m

Good beginners route.

FA: Mike Meadows, Chris Meadows

12 Macbarren Trad 5m

FA: Mac Thompson, Mike Mahoney., 1970

14 Babys Bottom Trad 8m

FA: Mac Thompson, Mike Mahoney., 1970

15 Pop-up Toaster Trad 6m

Above the previous three routes. Right crack.

FA: Bill Norris, Sally Norris, 1980

9 Three Nuns Trad 20m

FA: Mike Meadows, Chris Meadows., 1969

12 Doctor Pats Crack Trad 10m

FA: Chris Meadows, Mike Meadows., 1973