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Description

Directly above routes 'Onlooker's Omelette Left Side - The Elven King' is a large and spacious ledge with a large tree and chain. This ledge features some classic climbs and is a great way to spend an afternoon.

Access issues inherited from Frog Buttress

Access to Frog was recently restricted due to a phytophthora outbreak.

The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread.of the disease.

For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

Ethic inherited from Frog Buttress

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 ** Parasite Drag Trad 22m

FA: Joe Lynch, Dave Demnar, Margret Smith, 1982

2
18 Noose Trad 22m

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

3
15 Hanging Tree Trad 20m

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

4
17 * Erectile Kingpin Trad 16m

FA: Rick White, John Hattink - (Dave Gilleson -), 1972

5
24 *** Plate Tectonics Trad 18m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Andrew Barry, 1983

6
23 De Facto Trad 18m

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From (avoided crux -) - Kim Carrigan added direct., 1978

7

Test piece for the grade

Crack left of 'Electric Lead'

Jam like crazy and follow the crack right into the top of EL.

FA: Ross Allan, Rick White, 1970

8
14 R * Electric Lead Trad 26m

FA: Steve Bell & Ian Cameron

9
17 ** Wizards Back Trad 10m

Start: From the ledge at the top of MP and EL.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Bob Ferguson, 1977

10
22 Yeah, Yeah, Yeah! Trad 28m

FA: Andrew Barry, Robbie Allen, Gordon Bieske, 1983

11
15 Iron Butterfly Trad 28m

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with Great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m.. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route..

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett

12
12 First Layback Trad 12m

A stiff grade twelve.

FA: Mac Thompson & Ron Collett

13

FA: Alan Millband & Ron Collett; Alan Millband, Ron Collett

14
17 R The Big O Trad 12m

FA: Kevin Pearl, Brian MacArthur, 1981

15
16 * Winston Alley Trad 10m

FA: Rob Staszewski, Ian Thomas, 1977

16
23 Vis-à-Vis Trad 10m

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

17
13 Tardis Trad 10m

FA: Steve Bell & Barry Overs

18
16 Dunston Trad 12m

FA: Unknown's, 1970

19
16 Century Trad 15m

A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1970

20
17 R * A Hundred and One Trad 12m

FA: Kevin Pearl, Brian MacArthur, 1981

The following four (4) climbs are located on the detached pillar directly above Winston Alley. This pillar can be accesses by climbing any of the routes from "First Layback" to "Tardis".

21
20 *** Rickety Kate Trad 15m

FA: John Hattink, Rick White - Ray Lassman, Mike Meadows (FTRA: Dec), 1973

22
18 Kronk Trad 6m

FA: Stuart Camps, Evan Bieske, 1983

23
23 Cocont Ice Trad 15m

FA: John Pearson, Scott Camps, 1986

24
22 ** Bloody Mary Trad 16m

FA: Jeff Lamb, Peter Fisk (Joe Lynch Jan- Direct Start), 1983

The next routes start from below Rickety Kate Pillar, on the ground level and to the right.

25

FA: Barry Overs & Steve Bell

26
17 Side-pocket Shot Trad 15m

FA: Joe Lynch, Margeret Smith, 1982

27
13 Electric Mud Trad 10m

FA: Ian Cameron &Chris Knudsen; Ian Cameron, Chris Knudson

28
23 * Gum Nut Trad 11m

FA: Brian Courtney, 1983

29
22 ** The Acorn Tree Trad 12m

FA: Scott Camps, Philip Waters, 1986

30
14 Moll Trad 25m

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1969

31
22 No Name Trad 12m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Malcolm Matheson, 1983

32

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

33
14 Shit Heap Trad 10m

Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing.

FA: Ian Cameron & Rick White; Ian Cameron, Rick White

34
22 * Parallel Universe Trad 18m

FA: Ross Ferguson Gareth Llewellin

35

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From, 1978

36
15 Mechanical Prune Trad 18m

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows

37
17 Dynamite Trad 18m

FA: Rob Stazsewski, 1979

38
11 R Condor Trad 18m

Was once a classic climb, but has since fallen to bits.

FA: Ian Cameron & Chris Knudsen

39
18 Last Picture Show Trad 22m

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Thomas, 1974

40
20 Back Row Trad 12m

FA: Rick White, Paul Edwards, 1979

41

FA: Joe Lynch, Dave Demnar, 1981

42

FA: Matt Hutton

43
21 Boris and Natasha Trad 22m

FA: John Pearson, Chris Frost, Bill Lukin, 1987

44

Great climb. She desperate V-groove on tiny RP'S and micro cams. falling would be very exciting. After flopping onto the ledge, and once you have recovered your nerves, sail up the magnificent corner featuring 3 cracks and classic climbing all the way to the top.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Cameron, 1972

45

A variant finish to MPFC. Start up MPFC, from the ledge turn away from the amazing corner on the left and tear up the grotty crack on the right wall.

FA: Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

46
22 * Fawlty Towers Trad 10m

FA: Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

47
18 X Death Road 2,000 Trad 22m

AS the name suggests...

FA: Allen Hansen, Ray Lassman, 1984

48
19 * Peaches and Cream Trad 20m

FA: Bill Noris, Sally Norris, 1980

49
15 R Tarzans Dilemma Trad 20m

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1969

50
22 Boltophobia Arete Trad 8m
51
13 R Asbestos Grapefruit Trad 22m

FA: Steve Bell, Ron Collett, 1969

52
15 R Let it Bleed Trad 25m

FA: Steve Bell, Dave Kahler, 1972

53
20 Yokomo Trad 15m

Boulder up the shallow corner on small gear to the ledge. A few moves up the grunty corner take you to the next ledge. Carefully up loose gully to DMEG anchor.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

54

FA: Simon Vallings, Russell Chudleigh, 1984

55
16 Mainliner Trad 20m

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

56

FA: Rob Stazsewski, Richard Sullivan, 1971

57

FA: Fred From, 1977

58

FA: Paul Hoskins, Stuart Camps, Dave Moss, Odette Moss, 1983

59

FA: Dave Moss and party., 1982

60

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1983

61

FA: Steve Bell, Ron Collett, 1969

62
20 R Cut Short Trad 13m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Robbie Allen, 1982

63
19 R Cheetah Trad 10m

FA: Andrew Barry, 1982

64
9 R Fluorescent Mank Trad 25m

FA: Dave Gilleson, 1969

65
11 R Revolution Trad 30m

FA: Marilyn Dall, Pat Prentergast, 1969

66
18 Thing Trad 5m

FA: Kevin Pearl, 1979

67
20 ** Erg Trad 25m

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1973

68
22 *** Erg Direct Trad 25m
69

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Natalie Green, 1983

70
25 ** Hard Nose Trad 25m

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

71
26 ** Hard Nose DS Unknown 5m
72
22 *** Black Light Trad 25m

Established by Ted Cais in 1973.

FA: Ian Lewis, Rick White, 1975

73
18 R Blood of the Christ Trad 25m

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

74
22 *** Child in Time Trad 25m

Contender for one of the best climbs at the crag.

FA: FA White/Cais 1973, FFA Barber 1975

75
28 ** Debrilla Trad 25m

Originally named "Dobrilla" by ML after a friend, a typo in the guide resulted in Debrilla.

FA: Mike Law, 1988

76

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

77
21 ** Venom Trad 25m

Climbed by Ted Cais and Ian Thomas with one rest and avoiding the direct finish in July 1973.

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

78
16 Fat Mattress Trad 30m

Climbed by Rick White and Ian Cameron by aiding the start in Jan 1971.

FA: Steve Bell, 1972

79

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2007

80
24 Swashbuckler Trad 15m
81
15 Holy Ghost Trad 15m

FA: Rick White (solo), 1971

82
24 Keep Left Trad 15m

FA: Kim Carrigan, Greg Child, 1978

83

FA: Nic Taylor, Rob Staszewski, Rick White, 1976

84
23 The Anti-Crookneck Trad 20m

FA: Fred From, Joe Lynch, 1983

85
25 *** Carrion Comfort Trad 25m

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1979

86
27 Catcher in the Rye Trad 25m

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

87
19 ** Inquisition Trad 25m

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1973

88
32 *** Whistling Kite Trad 30m

FA: Paul Smith, 1988

89

Groove, then bolts up the arete R of Whistling Kite.

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner

90
20 * Cannabis Crack Trad 35m

FA: Trevor Gynther, Ian Thomas, 1975

91

Has been the scene of several serious falls.

Was originally graded 15.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

92
26 *** Future Tense Trad 40m

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

93
22 R * Badfinger Trad 30m

FA: Henry Barber, John Fantini, 1975

94
27 ** The Lords Prayer Trad 30m

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1973

95
19 Blody Red Rooster Trad 25m

FA: Joe Friend, Kim Carrigan, 1973

96
23 ** Satanic Majesty Trad 30m

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

97
27 * Hallowed Ground Trad 30m

FA: Matt Hutton

98
16 R Our Father Trad 45m

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1970

99
19 R Suggestive Poses Trad 25m

FA: Joe Lynch, Roger Bourne, Margert Smith, 1983

100

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White. Rick White, Ian Cameron ., 1970

101
22 ** Steel Fingers Trad 40m

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

102
20 * Rack and Ruin Trad 40m

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

103
20 * Lord of the Flies Trad 40m

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

104

Originally the only way to do the route free.

FA: Ted Cais, 1974

105

Was the scene of a freak accident in 2006.

Climber survived a ground fall after his rope was sliced in two by the sharp edge.

FA: Ted Cais, Jim Bright, Rick White, 1973

106

FA: Trevor Gynther, Rhys Davies, 1973

107
15 Syrius Trad 20m

FA: Rick White, Barry Overs, 1971

108
22 Snipe Trad 23m

FA: Robbie Allen, Marty Beare, 1983

109
20 ** Pollux Trad 23m

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1974

110
16 * Castor Trad 22m

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

111
25 Elven Castle Sport 25m

Bolted.

FA: Matt

112
25 ** The Elven King Trad 25m

FA: Matt Hutton, Kerrod Davidson., 2001

113
14 * Theory Trad 25m

A doubled 50m rope will get you down from the tree.

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett; Rick White, Ron Collett; Rick White, Ron Collett

114
18 * Sacrilege Crack Trad 25m

Someone once got their leg stuck in this crack and had to call the SES.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1972

Theory Ledge

This ledge features some classic climbs and is a great way to spend an afternoon. The ledge can be approached by climbing any of the climbs between 'Onlooker's Omelette Left Side' and 'The Elven King'.

Alternatively a tree marked with "FC" in its trunk shows the way to the rap into the ledge from the top. It should be mentioned that the tree is a little hard to find the first time, so look hard.

115
16 Forked Tongue Trad 15m

Off the far left of 'Theory' Ledge.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1973

116
16 Moonlighter Trad 15m

Right of 'Forked Tongue'.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

117
17 R Gangrene Trad 15m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Gordon Bieske, 1982

118
19 Off the Wall Trad 13m

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976

119
22 Slippin' Away Trad 13m

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

120
18 * Farty Clacker Trad 12m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Dave Moss, 1982

121
19 ** Southern Comfort Trad 15m

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976

122

FA: Merry and Dan (NZ), 2009

123
20 Into the Fire Trad 12m

Fist cracking hanging out the right side of 'Theory' Ledge. This route no longer exists as it fell to the bottom of the cliff.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

Back on ground level and to the right of 'Sacrilege Crack'.

124
14 R Grandma's Tonic Mixed 18m, 1

Upward jungle swing...

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron

125
16 R * Sabrasucker Trad 18m

Rap off 'Theory' Ledge.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rob Staszewski

The next 5 routes are above and to the right of 'Sabrasucker'.

126
16 R Worthless Trad 15m

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1976

127

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

128
21 R Sister Boogie Woman Trad 15m

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984

129

FA: Paul Grey, Stuart Camps, 1984

130
22 Slough Stuff Trad 12m

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984

This sector is back on the ground (Walking Track) Level starting to the right of 'Sabrasucker' and heading back towards the scree slope.

131
20 * Famous Cosmetics Trad 40m

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1978

132
17 Phatang Trad 40m

FA: Rick White, Trevor Gynther, 1972

133
22 R Delilah Trad 40m

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

134
22 R Ride Me High Trad 40m

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

135
22 Face Ache Trad 12m

Reached by climbing either of the previous two routes.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Andrew Barry, 1982

136

FA: Gordon Bieske, Robbie Allen, 1982

137
24 *** Impulse Trad 25m

A contender for the best climb at the crag.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (YoYo), 1978

138

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

139

The second route ever climbed at the cliff.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

140
18 *** Borderline 29 Trad 15m

Arete on the left from the belay ledge on LLL.

FA: Mike Law ('s), 1970

141

Right form the belay ledge on LLL.

FA: Dave Moss, Paul Hoskins, 1983

142

Direct start of LLL.

FA: Ross Allen, Bill Atkinson., 1970

143
25 Irky Perky Trad 30m

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

144
21 Close to the Edge Trad 35m

FA: Greg Child, Keith Bell., 1975

145

FA: Kim Carrigan., 1981

146
22 Anal Teens Trad 35m

FA: Dave Moss, Marty Beare, Rick White, 1980

147

FA: Trevor (pineapple-eater) Gynther, John Fantini., 1975

148

FA: Paul Hoskins, Joe Lynch, 1983

149
23 Bongos Direct Trad 25m

Another Andrew Barry classic?

FA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1983

150
20 * Corner of Eden Trad 35m

First route done on the cliff by Rick White and Chris Meadows with two aids in Aug 1968.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais., 1973

151
23 R Ground to a Halt Trad 14m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Shepherd., 1982

152

FA: Rick White, 1973

153
23 R * Sticky Date Trad 10m

The blunt arete right of EP. Potential for dead branch in rectum if you fall off the crux.

Start: Do first 2m of Egotistical 'Pineapple' then right onto the arete.

FA: Two carrots added by Roger Bourne. Possibly previously top roped by Hoskins., 1995

154
23 Guilt By Association Sport 10m

It is a 10m high blunt arete with two BR's to finish at the same ledge as EP. It either scoots into Egotistical after the last bolt (which makes it pretty short) or goes staight up arete (v hard and contrived). Neither makes for a great route apparently.

155
11 Parsons Pleasure Trad 10m

Good beginners route.

FA: Mike Meadows, Chris Meadows

156
12 Macbarren Trad 5m

FA: Mac Thompson, Mike Mahoney., 1970

157
14 Babys Bottom Trad 8m

FA: Mac Thompson, Mike Mahoney., 1970

158
15 Pop-up Toaster Trad 6m

Above the previous three routes. Right crack.

FA: Bill Norris, Sally Norris, 1980

159
9 Three Nuns Trad 20m

FA: Mike Meadows, Chris Meadows., 1969

160
12 Doctor Pats Crack Trad 10m

FA: Chris Meadows, Mike Meadows., 1973