Topo #4245

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Route Grade Popularity Style
40 ** Fluid Journey

Quite good. Up the initial corner to a hard move onto a ledge. From here, thin locking and classic bridging bring the top to hand.

21 Trad 40m Unlink route
41 ** Fluid / Epic Link Up

Climb Fluid Journey until possible to pull into Epic Journey at about half height. Combines the easiest sections of both routes.

18 Trad 30m Unlink route
42 *** Epic Journey

Brilliant, graceful and absorbing climbing up the twin cracks stating off the small ledge right of FJ. Some of the most elegant face climbing and layaway moves around. Step L into the single crack with joyous jamming and chimney moves above.

23 Trad 30m Unlink route
39 *** Insomnia

One of the first 23s in Australia! Although previously downgraded, this route has lost non of its spice over the years. Up the brilliant V-groove with phenomenally classy bridging and face work, capped by a desperate mantle on to the ledge. From here, grunt up the classic off-width to an easy finish! Originally aided by Staszewski and Killop, they backed off realizing that a better climber might one day free this amazing line. All were stunned and inspired when it was freed by Henry Barber.

23 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #4243

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Route Grade Popularity Style
44 * Green Plastic Comb

A very hard route to protect well on lead. Start on the cracked arete, up this for a few moves and then out onto the R face. Quiver up the face on thin holds with RPs and flared token cam placements guaranteeing your concentration! A hard move on the arete moves the route to the L face and an excellent #3 RP. From there, flail up the face to where the obvious diagonal crack line leads R to a ledge. This crack is actually quite easy but feels relatively hard due to the fact that most climbers are pumped completely senseless by then! Follow this to a ledge, then easily up. Rap as for SIL.

25 Trad 20m Unlink route
45 * Sadhana

If you arms are still capable of basic function, this should help to finish them off! The direct finish to GPC features classic climbing up a delicate arete. From where the crack goes R, head straight up the arete past a lone bolt. Run it out to the top.

26 Mixed 10m, 1 Unlink route
46 * Handy Andy

Most people tend to onsight this route, due to the fact that a fall could be very nasty! Bridge up the completely blank corner, pretending that there are actually holds. Very desperate climbing past the two pitons. Not a climb for the faint hearted.

27 Mixed 20m, 2 Unlink route
47 Flange Desire

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get.

27 Trad 25m Unlink route

Topo #4244

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Route Grade Popularity Style
47 Flange Desire

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get.

27 Trad 25m Unlink route
48 *** Brown Corduroy Trousers

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

28 Trad 25m Unlink route
49 ** Barbed-wire Canoe

Absolutely brilliant climbing, although possibly one of the most sustained routes here. Brilliant bridging up the open-book corner to the flake at the top.

25 Trad 27m Unlink route

Topo #4242

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Route Grade Popularity Style
50 * Chook Fear

Bridging, layaways and levitation are all required to get up this imposing, blank corner. At the top, step R to the tree. An Olympic rhythmic gymnast may be able to bridge across to WO; as for normal people, attempting this could destroy more than just your pants!

26 Trad 20m Unlink route
51 ** Wild One

A very strenuous outing and an excellent exponent of flared hand jamming. The start of this route is quite challenging. Step R into the climb after going up CF for a few moves. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the top. Stepping on your rope and gear back be a bit of a hassle. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route as described.

24 Trad 20m Unlink route
53 *** Cock Corner

This pump fest provides some of the best and most sustained crack climbing on the cliff. Blast up the unrelenting crack in the steep corner. Layaway a cruxy move at 2/3rd height, and then easily to the top.

21 Trad 30m Unlink route

Topo #4241

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Route Grade Popularity Style
78 *** Gladiator

An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here.

18 Trad 17m Unlink route
79 Christian

A gruntologist's dream. Clang your hexes for joy and release a tribal yelp before plunging head first into this disgusting knee and elbow destroying body chimney. You should really shoot yourself if you are seriously considering leading this route!

16 Trad 17m Unlink route

Topo #4240

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Route Grade Popularity Style
112 *** Thor

Very nice! Step in from the left, and boulder R to the jug. From here, climb the beautiful line and finger crack to a stance below a corner. This corner provides beatiful positions and stances, and finishes up an easier crack to the top.

19 Trad 30m Unlink route
113 *** Odin

A complete classic, this climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods. Up the initial orange crack system to a stance below the "magic block". A tricky move above this into a narrow groove. The hand and fist crack above keeps you puffing the whole way! Hard for the grade.

20 Trad 30m Unlink route
114 *** The Guns of Navaronne

Very photogenic climbing up the only line here that has anything close to a roof! Up the initial blank corner with loads of class to a rest at the "magic block". Fire up and hand traverse R into the void! A hand to fist-sized cam at the lip keeps things sane. Spicy moves above to the top.

23 Trad 30m Unlink route

Topo #4238

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Route Grade Popularity Style
119 * If

Confused climbing but worth a visit. Blast up the initial cracked arete on shaky RP's (or just solo it) to a stance in a cave and a very old piton. Step L into the corner system and up this line with good gear and one more equally crappy piton. The climbing eases off towards the top.

17 Trad 30m Unlink route
120 Bombs Over British Airways

Up If to the first piton. From here, go up the orange corner to the roof, pulling round this and onto a stance on a huge jug. Place a high runner in If, say goodbye to your family, and move R and up the face on thin and "delicate" holds.

24 Trad 30m Unlink route
121 *** Short Order

An absolute classic test piece, locking and jamming problem. A hard start gains a stance at 2m. From here, climb the unrelenting corner with excellent gear, stances and locks. Keep plugging and moving like a punch-drunk boxer, as the lactic acid build-up ever so surely creeps up on you. There are just enough stances and holds to keep you from being reduced to a whimpering mess. A rap chain can be found in the tree about 6m above the first ledge as you top out.

20 Trad 30m Unlink route
122 Clean Wholesome Outdoor Fresh-air Family-entertainment Science-fiction Superman Physics

A R to L girdle, but fun for a change of scenery and direction! Up SO for 5m, then step L to the 1st piton of If. Edge across Decade, and bridge with much trepidation into Odin level with the large jug and flake. Across and up into Thor, as far as the overhang, then traverse onto the Warlock Ledge and off.

20 Trad 50m Unlink route
123 Shocking Blue

Not pleasant. Up the initial fist crack to a horror blank corner above the fig.

19 Trad 25m Unlink route

Topo #4237

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Route Grade Popularity Style
127 Electric Banana

Not a mind-blowing affair but worth a lap! Start up the ordinary groove and face, then finish up the easy chimney.

16 Trad 40m Unlink route
128 *** Smoked Banana

Classic Frog climbing. Up the initial twin cracks with some difficulty to a ledge. Step L and up the single crack to a stance under a daunting roof. Sling the chock stone on the R in the wide crack, swallow hard and swing out and up the ladder of chock stones with bowel-quivering exposure! Rest your nerves in the body crack for a moment, travel into the depths of the crack, then squeeze up for a move or two until it is possible to step out onto the arete and face. Easily to the top.

17 Trad 40m Unlink route
129 * Understanding

The variant finish to SB is a very classy little outing. Climb up SB to the overhang. Take a large breath, step L up and around the overhang to a bolt. Follow the line to the arete and up a thin crack to the top.

22 Trad 40m Unlink route

Topo #4236

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Route Grade Popularity Style
136 ** The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine

Brilliant! Start up the off-width to a ledge at 4m. Alternatively, you can start up HG and then step L at this ledge. From there up the awesome finger crack with excellent face holds and locks to a thin crux at 2/4 height. From there, up the hand and fist crack to a ledge. Either rap off the small tree, or go up the broken corner at the back and rap off the MMT chains (single 60m rope on stretch).

20 Trad 25m Unlink route
137 * Holy Grail

This climb has some really nice moves on it. Unfortunately, it also has a huge loose boot-shaped rock at 1/2 height. The loose rock and poor pro continues above this. Flop onto the same ledge as for TGBBGPM. Although it looks like a classic, there are far better options on either side!

20 Trad 25m Unlink route
138 Holy Grail Direct Finish

Instead of flopping onto the ledge with quiet relief, continue up the depressingly blank corner for another 15m to the top. Very small gear and one very old piton pretend to offer adequate protection.

22 Trad 15m Unlink route
139 *** The One That Got Away

Absolutely classic, although your calves will hate you for your effort! So named because Barber somehow managed to miss this fine line on his "tick every classic in sight" tour of 75. Blast up the long corner with superb gear, crack and bridging moves throughout the entire climb. Top out on Conquistador ledge. Rap chains await, however you will need two ropes to get to the bottom.

21 Trad 42m Unlink route
140 * Bitter and Twisted

A nice variant finish to TOTGA, but it simply isn't as good as the others. Climb about half way up TOTGA, then step R (following a seam) to a bolt on the wall. Continue out R and up the arete passing another bolt. Easily to the top.

22 Trad 45m Unlink route

Topo #3777

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Route Grade Popularity Style
141 *** Conquistador

If there is one route that simply must be done at Frog... this is it! Possibly the most magnificent outing at the grade ever! Jam with joy up the initial crack section to a stance at half height. From here, a hard move on finger locks in an overhanging section brings the world's mos welcome jugs. Motor up the classy finish with moves that would make anyone look stylish! Rap chains can be found on the ledge.

21 Trad 45m Unlink route
142 *** Devils Dihedral

This daunting line is simply magnificent. Up the twin cracks on locks and jams that would leave a poet short for words. From here, continue up to where the cracks merge to form a single, steep, fingers to fists crack. A hard move to the ledge provides a classic sting in the tail.

20 Trad 45m Unlink route
143 *** Deliverance

The 3rd of an unsurpassable trio. A desperate start on pin scars, locks, friction and prayer sees you established in this daunting corner. Continue up this monster pump fest with every move just as good as the last. Save some energy for the last few moves... it has sent more than one flailing would-be ascentionist plummeting into space. Some of the best gear at Frog keeps this climb sane.

23 Trad 45m Unlink route
144 ** Petulance

Start as for Tantrum. Climb up about 8m and step L onto the arete. Follow the line of bolts to the top featuring gut-wrenching exposure, and quite classy arete climbing. Some parties start up Deliverance instead.

26 Trad 45m Unlink route
145 ** Tantrum

Overgrown and overshadowed by its company it received little attention for years. A recent cleaning and addition of a piton down low (it was originally led with a pre-placed RP) has made it a more attractive proposition. Bridge up tree to get piton and an RP. Thin bouldery moves lead to very enjoyable and friendly climbing above.

25 Trad 45m Unlink route

Topo #7738

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Route Grade Popularity Style
162 * Hollywood Rattlesnake

A strenuous and rewarding test piece jamming problem. Brilliant gear and tricky finger locks see you to a good stance at 2/3 height. Finish easily. Rap off tree.

19 Trad 18m Unlink route
165 * Bad Company

A classy little climb up the corner past a large tree at 2m. Fantastic protection and loads of climbing variety make this an absolute winner.

15 Trad 20m Unlink route
163 ** Out on a Limb

An excellent and absorbing climb. This climb relies more on balance and technique than power, and is essentially one big balance problem. The gear is good, despite appearances. A good lead head is essential.

22 Trad 18m Unlink route
164 * Run With the Pack

this climb is desperate to protect in the first half, although barely adequate protection can be found. Levitate and bridge up the initial strenuous corner to a stance at 1/2 height. You can escape this craziness by going up BC for 5m and then stepping L. If you do this, the grade drops to 21. From this stance, blast up one of the most magnificent finger seams that Frog has to offer! A rap chain at the tree above sees you off.

21 Trad 20m Unlink route
160 Genghis Khan

The horrible dark chimney to the R of SC. This climb is a disgusting grunt fest with no real worthwhile protection.

17 Trad 20m Unlink route
161 * Go-between

Desperate. Classy and unrelenting movement the whole way protected by shallow and small gear. Deserves to be done more often, but is quite solid and risky at the grade.

23 Trad 18m Unlink route

Topo #4235

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Route Grade Popularity Style
180 Fast Eddie

This climb is loads of fun! Up to a hard move getting around the small rooflet. From here, climb on fantastic jams to a ledge. Finish here on natural anchors. Alternatively, you can climb the very easy corner at the back of this ledge for a further 5m, and you will come across the rap chains attached to the large tree directly above.

18 Trad 15m Unlink route
181 Straight Man's Fear

This climb is the 4th great climb of its grade in the area, and probably the best. Up RF for a move or two (you will soon forget this misery), and then step L into the thin crack on the L face. From here, rock poetry follows for the rest of the route. Finish as for FE.

18 Trad 13m Unlink route
182 Rhyolite Fruit

A completely disgusting pile of crap that is a blemish on the face of Frog. The large chimney formed by the huge detached pillar being pushed out by the massive chock stone above. Even break-stroking, flannel-wearing, thrutch masters think twice before choosing to climb this disgusting chimney.

11 Trad 13m Unlink route

Topo #7773

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Route Grade Popularity Style
217 ** Devil's Wart

Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you need to use any of it.

15 Trad 27m Unlink route
218 Cold Turkey

Absolutely brutal and unrelenting off-width climbing at its worst. Feels closer to 23. The chockstones mentioned in the Joe Lynch guide must have fallen out! Take big gear, elbow pads, grim determinations and a vomit bag. You can get off this disgusting pile of crap as for BB.

17 Trad 27m Unlink route

Topo #3815

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