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All the climbs are listed from the far end of the left side to the right as you face the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Frog Buttress

Access to Frog was recently restricted due to a phytophthora outbreak.

The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread.of the disease.

For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

Ethic inherited from Frog Buttress

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)


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Grade Route
22 ** Parasite Drag Trad 22m

Hard to stay out of Noose! Thin climbing up the arete. Up a short crack to the ledge, the piton fell out years ago, luckily small wires provide adequate pro. Tricky moves lead to the fixed hanger. Finish direct up a small corner.

FA: Joe Lynch, Dave Demnar & Margret Smith, 1982

18 * Noose Trad 22m

The main crack splitting the pillar with a right trending diagonal. The difficulties lie in the first diagonal section, and getting established in the crack. The body crack can be avoided by climbing the face to the left.

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1972

15 Hanging Tree Trad 20m

Not the best climb at Frog! Climb the second crack right of Noose to a small ledge. From there go straight up with a desperate mantle to finish. Belay at the small tree.

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1972

17 * Erectile Kingpin Trad 16m

Go up the twin edged corner to a stance on the large ledge. From there, strenuous jamming up the left facing corner to another ledge. Then easily to the rap chain.

FA: Rick White & John Hattink - (Dave Gilleson -), 1972

24 ** Plate Tectonics Trad 18m

Brilliant! A sustained and somewhat committing climb with a number of technical sequences. Start up EK and step R off the ledge to the first carrot. Continue up past a second carrot, and then run it out a long way to a piton under the right side of a tiny rooflet (can be backed up with a green "Alien"). From there, step left and up the obvious crack to finish.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Andrew Barry, 1983

23 ** De Facto Trad 18m

Good face climbing but close to MP. A strenuous start up the thin seam just right of PT leads to a good stance. Up shallow corner and arete (crux) to finish up the widening crack. On the FA Kim did it on the gear in the seam, but it's easy - and much more sane - to lean across R and place a cam in MP before the crux.

FA: Kevin Pearl & Fred From (avoided crux -) - Kim Carrigan added direct., 1978

FFA: Kim Carrigan, 1982


A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. A good safe lead if you are new to Frog. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney.

FA: Ross Allan & Rick White, 1970

14 * Electric Lead Trad 26m

A good safe introduction to Frog at the grade. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the ledge but you can continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

FA: Steve Bell & Ian Cameron

17 ** Wizards Back Trad 10m

Makes a good second pitch to either of the two preceeding routes. Face climbing which is not well protected at the start, which is probably the crux. Step warily off the ledge onto the right wall with a crescent moon shaped crack (watch the factor 2 fall off the ledge). Proceed up with much joy, and even more exposure!

FA: Kevin Pearl & Bob Ferguson, 1977

22 Yeah, Yeah, Yeah! Trad 28m

A lot scarier now that the 1st piton has fallen out. Start up EL, but step R out of the cave, and up to a stance at a bolt. Go up to the eerie piton hole (gear possible), and continue up the arete to the second piton. Finish directly up the nose.

FA: Andrew Barry, Robbie Allen & Gordon Bieske, 1983

15 * Iron Butterfly Trad 28m

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with Great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m.. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route..

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett

13 First Layback Trad 12m

Start up SAW, step left and up onto a ledge. From here either scramble off R, or finish up the easy corner of IB. Not very good.

FA: Mac Thompson & Ron Collett


Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!

FA: Alan Millband, Ron Collett; Alan Millband & Ron Collett

17 R The Big O Trad 12m

Complete crap with a large ledge below very poor pro. If the kamikaze in you must do this, go up the ledges left of WA, and do a layback sequence up the friable flakes to the ledge.

FA: Kevin Pearl & Brian MacArthur, 1981

16 * Winston Alley Trad 10m

A great little climb and a good introduction to sustained bridging. The obvious corner left of Tardis. A hard 1st move gets you to a stance. From there, keep going with constant surprises to the top. Excellent gear throughout.

FA: Rob Staszewski & Ian Thomas, 1977

23 Vis-à-Vis Trad 10m

Contrived to say the least. Climb the arete to the right of WA past a bolt runner, without stepping into either of the surrounding climbs. There are far better routes to be climbed!

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

13 * Tardis Trad 10m

Solid for the grade. Up the steep little corner, then take the left of the 2 grooves from the stance at 1/2 height. Be wary of filthy, loose exit.

FA: Steve Bell & Barry Overs

16 Dunston Trad 12m

Horrible. Looks a lot better than it is. The wide flake and crack to the left of Century.

FA: Unknown's, 1970

16 * Century Trad 15m

A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1970

21 R A Hundred and One Trad 12m

A bold lead. Thin, strenous and poorly protected moves feature throughout this route up the face just right of Century. This was graded 17 but if you go directly up the face it's easily 21. Maybe some holds have come off, it's not the best rock, and the gear is very poor. Easily toproped off the chains though.

FA: Kevin Pearl & Brian MacArthur, 1981

Rickety Kate Pillar

The following four (4) climbs are located on the detached pillar directly above Winston Alley.

This pillar can be accesses by climbing any of the routes from "First Layback" to "Tardis".

18 * Kronk Trad 6m

Yet another case of putting a route up just to get your name in the guide! The climb steps left at the ledge after RK corner, and has one hardish move to the chain on the tree. Good for a change of scene.

FA: Stuart Camps & Evan Bieske, 1983

20 *** Rickety Kate Trad 15m

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

FA: John Hattink, Rick White - Ray Lassman & Mike Meadows (FTRA: Dec), 1973

23 Cocont Ice Trad 15m

Barely seperate climbing R of RK. On clipping the bolt, step down and R, then up on this flakes and holds to the top. Place pro in RK to keep it sane.

FA: John Pearson & Scott Camps, 1986

22 ** Bloody Mary Trad 16m

OK climbing up a steeper than expected line. 2 possible starts both feature poor rock and protection. Coming in from the left up past the hollow flakes and the rooflet or up the grotty corner to step in from the R on good holds. From here, up a crack system basically formed from wedged rocks. Not recommended to lead this.

FA: Jeff Lamb & Peter Fisk (Joe Lynch Jan- Direct Start), 1983

Below Rickety Kate Pillar

The next routes start from below Rickety Kate Pillar, on the ground level and to the right.


Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top.

FA: Barry Overs & Steve Bell

17 * Side-pocket Shot Trad 15m

The crack 1m R of HDZ. Grunt up this on good gear to a stance and ledge at half height. Continue up the right face (completely unprotected), or alternatively finish up the easy corner system on top of HDZ. Star only applies for the "non-death variant".

FA: Joe Lynch & Margeret Smith, 1982

13 * Electric Mud Trad 10m

Up the easy corner with good gear to be found. Pause for a moment to ponder the tricky exit move, flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

FA: Ian Cameron, Chris Knudsen; Ian Cameron & Chris Knudson

23 * Gum Nut Trad 11m

Climb straight up the arete immediately R of EM. One bolt shows the way. Protection can be found by stepping L and putting gear in EM (desperate). Delicate and fun climbing.

FA: Brian Courtney, 1983

22 * The Acorn Tree Trad 12m

A great second pitch to GN. Starts about 10m R of the Rickety Kate pillar. Desperate moves off the ledge gain the first of 2 bolts. Delicate and technically challenging moves to the top, spacious protection!

FA: Scott Camps & Philip Waters, 1986

14 Moll Trad 25m

Absolutely disgusting climbing up the chimney to the R of GN. Many loose boulders, crap moves and thick vegetation all make this an absolute joy on some weird and sick planet.

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1969

22 No Name Trad 12m

A crappy little wall with holds that occasionally stay attached! The short orange wall about 10m right of Moll has one bolt. Once above this, go up and right on good holds.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Malcolm Matheson, 1983


More dodgy moves up loose and dirty rock. The lichen and choss filled corner to the right of NN.

FA: Stuart Camps & Scott Camps, 1983

14 * Shit Heap Trad 10m

Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing.

FA: Ian Cameron, Rick White; Ian Cameron & Rick White

22 * Parallel Universe Trad 18m

Start up TSLD until the rest under the hanging arete. Plug in a nest of gear, whimper a little, then veer up and left running it out a long, long way until the horizontal break. Cry with relief, put in some 'thank god' gear, and continue easily to the top. Rap as for TSLD. Very run out.

FA: Ross Ferguson Gareth Llewellin


Classic face climbing. The thin seam takes you to a good stance at half height. Up the strenuous corner and airily onto the face. Continue shakily on (mostly) good holds. Poor gear to start and a few further moments of fiddly gear and friable rock. Easily to the top. Rap chain on the ledge.

FA: Kevin Pearl & Fred From, 1978

15 * Mechanical Prune Trad 18m

Quite good. Varied techniques are required to ascend this fine corner. Up the groove past a tree, then to an awkward constriction. Thrutch up this like a madman, or step onto the R face and skip the difficulties.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows

17 * Dynamite Trad 18m

Not a beginner lead! Start at MP and veer right up the shallow seam. There are good placements to be found, but they are quite small, and a little fiddly. Continue up the face with quiet desperation and dodgy wires until the ledge cones to hand. Step L and finish up MP. The original route started up the thin seam on the R face, and was graded 22.

FA: Rob Stazsewski, 1979

11 R Condor Trad 18m

Disgusting leading up a crappy line to an even more grunty body chimney! Numerous holds and chock stones have fallen out of this route over the years, and the route has been reduced from one of class to that of complete infamy. Belay from MP chains.

FA: Ian Cameron & Chris Knudsen

18 Last Picture Show Trad 22m

Not a great addition to the cliff. Up Condor for a while (you have already been warned!). Step R into a horrible, wide, groin-breaking, wide V-groove with not a lot of good protection.

FA: Ted Cais & Ian Thomas, 1974

20 ** Back Row Trad 12m

Wanders up gully right of Condor to the same area as the top of MPFC. From here, take finger crack to short off width left of the orange corner of Fawlty Towers. At ledge, step out right up finger crack.

FA: Rick White & Paul Edwards, 1979

22 ** Fawlty Towers Trad 10m

Step off the ledge where MPFC finishes, behind a large tree to an orange corner capped by a small roof at 5m. Traverse shakily R under this to a ledge. Balancy and technical moves upward bring a smile to your face!

FA: Marty Beare & Dave Moss, 1980


The first bolted route at Frog! Kim Carrigan promptly skipped the bolt on the second ascent, reclaiming the hardness of Frog from the bolt-clipping infidels! Starts at the small crack 3m L of MPFC (although most parties start from the ledge above). Off-balance moves up the thin diagonal crack to an awkward move into a sentry box to gain a rest. From here, clip the bolt, step R, and blast straight up the face to easier ground.

FA: Joe Lynch & Dave Demnar, 1981

21 Boris and Natasha Trad 22m

Shaky climbing on friable holds. Up the bottom crack of YUTV to a ledge. Lean out R and clip the bolt. Step down and traverse out R to the arete. From here, bowel quivering moves lead past another bolt, and some questionable RP's to the top.

FA: John Pearson, Chris Frost & Bill Lukin, 1987


Thin, fingery and reachy direct start to BAN. Not the greatest but worth doing if you're in the area. Up the face 2m L of MPFC, follow the bolts.

FA: Matt Hutton


Really good. The desperate blank V-groove once had a piton in it, although the "Ethics Police" removed it... 3 times! (It had been climbed for 15 years without need of a piton!) Despite appearances, the groove can be climbed quite safely using friction, prayer and a whole bunch of RP's and micro cams. Flop onto the ledge, whimper and gaze upwards! From here a magnificent corner featuring 3 cracks and classic climbing await you.

FA: Ted Cais & Ian Cameron, 1972


A variant finish to MPFC. Start up MPFC, from the ledge turn away from the amazing corner on the left and tear up the grotty crack on the right wall.

FA: Marty Beare & Dave Moss, 1980

18 X Death Road 2,000 Trad 22m

Complete crap. The horrible blank line 3m R of MPFC actually looks a lot better than it is (which is really saying something). Climb directly up the line over numerous loose blocks, piles of dirt and the bones of the last maniac who was desperate enough to lead such utter mank.

FA: Allen Hansen & Ray Lassman, 1984

19 Peaches and Cream Trad 20m

Some people really like this climb; I don't. Climb the shallow corner 5m R of DR2000 and then follow the line. Fiddly pro and dirty rock add to the experience. Belay either hanging from the tree (desperate but strangely cool), or get onto the ledge R of the tree and belay from there.

FA: Bill Noris & Sally Norris, 1980

15 R Tarzans Dilemma Trad 20m

Tarzan was on drugs! The dirty groove past a tree to a ledge. Continue up the corner R of PC. Keep going up the mank until you want to either stop, or kill yourself from getting on such utter rubbish.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1969

22 Boltophobia Arete Trad 8m

The crappy little arete in between TD and AG. It features one crotch destroying high step, and that's about it! Gear can be found in the corner to the R (AG).

13 R Asbestos Grapefruit Trad 22m

The second masterpiece in the "lord of the crap climbs" trilogy. Up the corner R of BA. Continue up a broken and heavily vegetated line, with loose rocks thrown in for free!

FA: Steve Bell & Ron Collett, 1969

15 R Let it Bleed Trad 25m

Scott Camps summed it up best when he said "Let it be Forgotten". Up to a short tricky corner in the vertical jungle. It's so bad that it actually makes AG look like a good alternative!

FA: Steve Bell & Dave Kahler, 1972

20 * Yokomo Trad 15m

Really good, but very short. Boulder up the shallow corner on small gear to the ledge. A few moves up the grunty corner take you to the next ledge. Carefully up loose gully to DMEG anchor or a short down climb to some rap trees.

FA: Stuart Camps & Scott Camps, 1983


Classic climbing. Start up Yokomo, and at the ledge take a deep breath, swing out onto the arete and up to a stance and a carrot bolt. The bolt looks to be in the wrong place, but is exactly where you need it! A high runner is possible in Yokomo to stop decking out. From there, fantastic and constantly absorbing climbing leads to the top. RPs are essential at the top.

FA: Simon Vallings & Russell Chudleigh, 1984

16 Mainliner Trad 20m

Pretty tough little climb, but well worth it. Up the pillar to the perfect line. Blast up this to a desperate mantle onto the ledge. From there up easily.

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1969


Bridge the pillar and crack line up to a good stance. Step R into the crack and up. Brilliant jamming. Go R up the gully to the abseil tree.

FA: Rob Stazsewski & Richard Sullivan, 1971


Great finger locking up a thin seam. A little tricky to protect lay backing, but well worth the trip. Quite technical and strenuous.

FA: Fred From, 1977


At the ledge, keep going straight up the scooped arete, as opposed to stepping off R to the tree. Good for a change of scene, but that's about it.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Stuart Camps, Dave Moss & Odette Moss, 1983


The super thin finger crack to the right of DMEG. Short and pumpy, the difficulties are over within a few moves. Rap as for DMEG.

FA: Dave Moss & party., 1982


Hard to find. Starts high in the mank below (R as you face the cliff) the tourist lookout. Climb up a short crack on a small orange faced buttress. From the horizontal, launch directly up the face.

FA: Rod Young & Mark Moorhead, 1983


The crappy corner to the right of TFYP is a close contender for the "worst route on the cliff" award. A single move among the bushes and mank may be found.

FA: Steve Bell & Ron Collett, 1969

20 R Cut Short Trad 13m

Crappy and dangerous. The corner found on the L side of the dark buttress to the R of DSEB. Up this and then traverse off L.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Robbie Allen, 1982

19 R Cheetah Trad 10m

The R hand line on the same buttress. Disgusting, confused climbing that goes nowhere.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1982

9 R Fluorescent Mank Trad 25m

Why would you do this to yourself? Strap on a chainsaw, gloves and helmet... then thrash for glory up the line of least vegetation and mank to the top of the broken amphitheatre.

FA: Dave Gilleson, 1969

11 R Revolution Trad 30m

A revolution goes around and around, constantly smacking you in the face. Well named! A horrible moss-laden chimney at the start is a fair indication of the quality of broken rock and climbing that is to follow.

FA: Marilyn Dall & Pat Prentergast, 1969

18 * Thing Trad 5m

Left of Erg is a 5m block. Boulder the L arete of this to the top. Good climbing, but falling would not be pleasant.

FA: Kevin Pearl, 1979

20 ** Erg Trad 25m

One of the most impressive lines on the cliff. Bridge up the line until the pillar stops. Step into the crack and blast up the ever widening crack. Chock stones and large gear can protect the top body chimney adequately.

FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1973

22 *** Erg Direct Trad 25m

Brilliant, the way to go if you can climb the grade. Up the finger crack without bridging. Note: There have been several serious accidents on this route due to "perfectly placed" cams ripping out of the crack in the first 10m.


A good way to avoid the body chimney of Erg. Step L into a short finger crack and blast up this to the top. Quite good.

FA: Malcolm Matheson & Natalie Green, 1983

25 ** Hard Nose Trad 25m

Classic arete climbing. Go up BL, step out L at the fixed hanger. Blast up the arete past 2 more hangers while your right arm gets the workout of the century! Finish up BL.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

26 *** Hard Nose DS Unknown 5m

Even better than Hard Nose. Step out L a little lower to a square cut hold on the arete. Clip the carrot bolt and proceed to wobble up 4m of balancy desperation bringing amazing movement and positions to hand.

22 *** Black Light Trad 25m

Brilliant climbing up and amazing line. A thin and bouldery start leads to a searing corner of unsurpassed quality. Thin hand jams and finger locks lead exhaustingly to a ledge. From there, continue easily to the belay tree.

FA: Ian Lewis & Rick White, 1975

18 R * Blood of the Christ Trad 25m

Bridge and jam up the initial corner (which is still a bit dirty) until it eases in the middle. Head up the chimney and exit left around the chockstones. The protection is fine if you take a 5 camalot. Rap from anchors above CIT.

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1969

22 *** Child in Time Trad 25m

Simply amazing. A tough start leads to one of the most sustained and awesome climbs imaginable.Take some microcams for the start. the climb itself is a contender for the best route on the cliff, regardless of grade.

FA: FA White/Cais 1973 & FFA Barber 1975

28 *** Debrilla Trad 25m

Originally named "Dobrilla" by ML after a friend, a typo in the guide resulted in Debrilla.

An awesome climb featuring strenuous and unique movement to gain the top. Mixed wires and bolt protection lead the way, with a desperate arete slapping technique similar to bear hugging fridges required to gain the jug. Finish up CIT

FA: Mike Law, 1988


A hardish move onto the ledge (step in from the R) gains a rest. From here blast up the unrelenting twin crack system until your arms and legs wish to explode! Gain a slight rest under a bulge, and then blissfully climb the single crack to the ledge. Take a few 3-4 camalots. Walk L through the cave/chimney to rap off as for BC.

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1969

21 ** Venom Trad 25m

Classic off-width thrashing up a glass smooth overhanging crack line... surprisingly unpopular really! Finish up a finger crack. It is very difficult not to step on or kick your gear out of place on the way up. Football jersey, jeans and knee pads are optional! Climbed by Ted Cais and Ian Thomas with one rest and avoiding the direct finish in July 1973.

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

16 * Fat Mattress Trad 30m

Start up Venom and step R at 3m. Bridge up a slightly overhanging corner crack system to a ledge. Crank hard off the ledge to get up the next hand crack with some difficulty, then to a rest. Easily to the top. Bolt anchor/belay. Used to be graded 15!! The direct start still awaits a clean ascent. Climbed by Rick White and Ian Cameron by aiding the start in Jan 1971.

FA: Steve Bell, 1972


FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2007

24 Swashbuckler Trad 15m
15 Holy Ghost Trad 15m

The disgusting body chimney R of FM. Destroy your body, grunting up this disgusting excuse for climbing, finish as for FM.

FA: Rick White (solo), 1971

24 ** Keep Left Trad 25m

Brutal climbing, sustained and difficult. Crank up the smooth line, all sorts of lay-aways and locks are required to grunt up this one. Fiddly microwires and microcams protect the crux. Continue up to anchor on Fat Mattress.

FA: Kim Carrigan & Greg Child, 1978


Desperate and grunty finger locking up a glass smooth corner then continue up to anchor of Fat Mattress. It can be made considerably easier by use of the "secret" foot jamming technique. Buy Rob a beer at the pub for all the info!

FA: Nic Taylor, Rob Staszewski & Rick White, 1976

23 ** The Anti-Crookneck Trad 20m

A good second pitch to the two previous routes. The ridiculously blank looking corner 5m L of KL with 2 pitons is where this mission starts! From there continue desperately until it is possible to wobble R to easier ground. Step L when able to, and finish steeply up the L side of the arete. Double ropes are thoroughly recommended for this lead.

FA: Fred From & Joe Lynch, 1983

25 *** Carrion Comfort Trad 25m

Named "Forever Young" by Rob when he freed the line... although it had already been named Carrion Comfort by the FA party! A visionary effort by Rob Staszewski, and, for a long time, the hardest route put up by a local climber. Desperate locking and laybacks lead the way up the leaning corner. Great gear can be found, stopping to place it is the trick! Rap anchor. A test piece for any aspiring crack master!

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1979

27 ** Catcher in the Rye Trad 25m

Super thin face climbing up the shallow V-groove. A high runner can be placed by climbing up Inquisition and stepping across as high up as your ethics let you. Kim had 7 hex nearly half way up the route on the 2nd ascent. Top rope the initial section (achieved by using The Force/levitation), then go up the sustained corner.

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979


Probably been done back in the dark ages when people actually tried Catcher in the Rye, but a great link up worth recording to promote it. Avoid the impossible bit of Catcher in the Rye by following Inquisition to the ledge then step left into the top corner of Catcher in the Rye. Great rock and climbing the whole way. Rap as for Inquisition (60m rope needed)

19 ** Inquisition Trad 27m

Really good climbing that deserves to be more popular. Follow the crack system to the large ledge. From here, blast up the off-width corner, stopping to wonder how people stay attached to WK! Step R up a face crack, to anchors on ledge (60m rope needed). Multiple pieces of 5 camalot size are essential to do this route safely.

FA: Rick White & Ted Cais, 1973


Originally done as a second pitch to Inquisition in the Rye, the orange V groove above has some rather desperate moments.

32 *** Whistling Kite Trad 30m

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

FA: Paul Smith, 1988


Start off the pillar below WK. Grunt up the initial off-width with a shaky cam keeping things sane. A line of bolts leads the way up this route with stunning positions and insanely classy movement throughout. The top section is quite run out, and very thin.

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner

20 * Cannabis Crack Trad 40m

A long sustained pitch up a striking line from the thin and steep start to old fashioned thrutching up the top third with good rock throughout.Quite a good route to go and beat yourself up on. Either climb down to the Whistling Kite chain or up and across to Blood, Sweat and Tears.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Ian Thomas, 1975


A classic grunt up a great line with a tree at half height. Quite strenuous and difficult in places, but excellent protection is available throughout. Head R at the top. Originally graded 15! Has been the scene of several serious falls.

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1969

26 ** Future Tense Trad 40m

Climb up BST until the tree. The original start up the desperate line 1m to the R is so thin and under protected that it has never been repeated. From the tree, step up and R to follow the increasingly difficult line. Desperate, thin climbing featuring one hell of a sting in the tail!

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

22 R ** Badfinger Trad 30m

Quite challenging. A hard start to an off-width crack. From here blast up a pleasant finger crack taking a well-earned rest on a ledge. Jam up to a tree, then climb a fear-inducing face to easy finish.

FA: Henry Barber & John Fantini, 1975

27 *** The Lords Prayer Trad 30m

With under 10 ascents in 21 years this is definitely a route not to be taken lightly! On one early attempt, Ian Cameron pulled off a 20m lead fall!!! Incredibly thin edging (to the point of requiring levitation abilities) up the steep face split by a micro seam. Micro cams and RPs provide adequate but spacious protection.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1973

19 Blody Red Rooster Trad 25m

Complete and utter mank. A vine-filled pile of crap that should never have been climbed.

FA: Joe Friend & Kim Carrigan, 1973

23 *** Satanic Majesty Trad 30m

Blast up for a few moves then traverse L to a diagonal crack. Strenuous jams that don't quite work as well as you want to provide barrels of fun! The steep hand crack above is superb!

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

27 * Hallowed Ground Trad 30m

A visionary effort by Matt. The improbably thin line to the right of SM provides good movement on very thin holds throughout. Superb positions and style, with Matt's "at least you won't hit the deck" bolt spacing technique providing loads of spice!! A little contrived, but worth a lap.

FA: Matt Hutton, 2003

16 R ** Our Father Trad 45m

A long and brutal expedition with no real rewards for the effort. Start as for SM, then thrash your way up the never-ending corner of doom! A great climb for those who are into self-inflicted pain and suffering.

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1970

19 R * Suggestive Poses Trad 25m

Not a whole lot better. Climb OF for the first few meters to a ledge. From there, step R into a dark corner and up. Halfway up the corner, step R at a piton that may ho an ant's body weight. Scarily up the arete to the top of the pillar. Down climb this easily to get off.

FA: Joe Lynch, Roger Bourne & Margert Smith, 1983


Really tough finger crack boulder problem to start. The good climbing ends here. If you must...continue up the body chimney for extra "old school" status!

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White. Rick White & Ian Cameron ., 1976

22 ** Steel Fingers Trad 40m

Brilliant climbing up a very classy line. The grade is 21 if you blast up the side and skip the diabolically thin start of WAIH! From the ledge, motor up the orange-faced corner system on great locks and better pro, At the rooflet, step R around the arete and follow the obvious line to the top. Rope drag can really be an issue on this climb. Twin ropes or long slings recommended.

FA: Rob Staszewski & Dave Moss, 1979

20 ** Rack and Ruin Trad 40m

Quite easy to get lost on this and wind up doing another route! Start up LOTF until you come to a shallow finger crack in a corner on the pillar to the left. Blast up this to the top. Pretty tough for the grade.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

20 ** Lord of the Flies Trad 40m

Surprisingly good long pitch. Starts with great finger locking, then steep hands, then funky 3d work around an offwidth to a final thrutch. Take multiple 4 and 5 camalots.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976


The rarely done bread stroker's alternate start was the original start...not recommended. Start up the off-width 1m to the L at the V-Groove.

FA: Ted Cais, 1974


Was the scene of a freak accident in 2006.

Climber survived a ground fall after his rope was sliced in two by the sharp edge.

A good place to practice placing big bros etc. This short very wide crack is an absolute must for all aspiring masters of the trutch!

FA: Ted Cais, Jim Bright & Rick White, 1973


More crap...up the other wide of the pillar. Start up the flake, then wander up assorted atrocities until you collapse onto Theory Ledge, vowing never to climb this again.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rhys Davies, 1973

15 Syrius Trad 20m

A crappy little off-width continues up to an equally dodgy line above. Not very good.

FA: Rick White & Barry Overs, 1971

22 ** Snipe Mixed 23m, 2

Tough. A dyno ff the ground sets the theme. Follow this up the arete past 2 bolts. Hard not to step into Pollux. Finish on Theory Ledge.

FA: Robbie Allen & Marty Beare, 1983

20 ** Pollux Trad 23m

Probably the toughest 20 at Frog if you can't climb off-widths! Disregard this if you have a foot-long beard and 20-year-old EB boots in your possession. Up the brilliant hand crack to the off-balance, off-width through two bulges. Big cams keep things sane. Really impressive climbing!

FA: Ted Cais & Rick White, 1974

16 * Castor Trad 22m

Great climbing and a fair introduction to the lost art of off-width climbing at the top. The hard move onto the ledge has seen more than one "head jam" attempt, although this is not a requirement of the route!

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1969

25 ** Elven Castle Sport 25m


FA: Matt

25 ** The Elven King Sport 25m, 3

Although top roped by numerous people in the past, it took Matt's vision to actually prepare and lead this amazing route. Named after the 3 Rings for the Elven Kings in Tolkein's masterpiece "The Lord of the Rings". Up a thin line on natural gear to a very tricky step left. Move up steep, thin and unrelenting face climbing past 3 ring bolts. From there, easily up and R to the top of Theory (need big cam).

FA: Matt Hutton & Kerrod Davidson., 2001

14 * Theory Trad 25m

This is not a well protected route. There have been a number of accidents on it and there are better choices if you are looking for routes of this grade (Electric Lead, Electronic Flag, Devil's Wart) Up the first corner to a ledge. From here, most people step into the middle line under the R edge of a huge chock stone-like flake. Up this with increasing difficulty to rest. Alternatively, you can go up SC for a move or two and step in L. From here, blast up the chock stone filled corner, and then easily to the chains at the tree.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett; Rick White & Ron Collett

18 ** Sacrilege Crack Trad 25m

Someone once got their leg stuck in this crack and had to call the SES.

The route immediately R of Theory. Up the finger then hand crack past some wedged flakes then the final offwidth which is sufficiently featured to minimise desperation. Sustained and varied with good climbing despite the section of questionable rock.

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1972

Theory Ledge

This ledge features some classic climbs and is a great way to spend an afternoon. The ledge can be approached by climbing any of the climbs between 'Onlooker's Omelette Left Side' and 'The Elven King'.

Alternatively a tree marked with "FC" in its trunk shows the way to the rap into the ledge from the top. It should be mentioned that the tree is a little hard to find the first time, so look hard.

16 * Forked Tongue Trad 15m

Tough for the grade! This route at the far L end of the ledge is at you from the first move! Varied crack and face climbing leads up to a final tight V-groove at the top. The trick at the start is deep jamming!

FA: Rick White & Ted Cais, 1973

16 * Moonlighter Trad 15m

Start up the broken rocks to a L facing corner. Up this and then step R onto the ledge. The gear is good, but a little fiddly to place.

FA: Rick White & Nic Taylor, 1976

17 R * Gangrene Trad 15m

Up Moonlighter for 3m and then step R onto the wall. Up this on friable flakes and large amounts of adrenalin.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Gordon Bieske, 1982

19 * Off the Wall Trad 13m

Classy climbing unfortunately marred by a ledge at half height. Bridge desperately or layback the thin crack up the dark corner to a ledge. Rest here and then launch up the classy line above. One tricky move sees you to the top. A little weird to protect in places. But the gear is great once you figure it out.

FA: Nic Taylor & Rick White, 1976

22 * Slippin' Away Trad 13m

Hard and thin. Blast up the unbelievably thin line directly above Theory. Bridge, layback, levitate and slap your way to the top. Quite a serious route.

FA: Rick White & Nic Taylor, 1976

18 * Farty Clacker Trad 12m

A climb best led on twin ropes. Start up SA for 4m placing a high runner in the corner. A tricky move R around the arete brings a stance and some much awaited protection. Blast up the crack and arete. Good fun.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Dave Moss, 1982

19 ** Southern Comfort Trad 15m

The best line off the ledge. A very smooth corner with some grunty finger locking the key to success. Great gear and movement make this a must do. Rap anchor.

FA: Nic Taylor & Rick White, 1976


Takes the crack revealed by the old rock fall right of Southern Comfort. Looks quite good until you look at the large rock only just held in by a tree root directly above it.

FA: Merry & Dan (NZ), 2009

20 * Into the Fire Trad 12m

This route no longer exists as it fell to the bottom of the cliff. Description here for historic purposes.

A two-move wonder right off the ledge, but what a hell of a way to start the climb! Desperately thin moves to a stance, sigh of relief and gear, easily up the fist crack to finish. Should be more popular.

FA: Rick White & Nic Taylor, 1976

Right of Sacrilege Crack

Back on ground level and to the right of 'Sacrilege Crack'.

14 R Grandma's Tonic Mixed 18m, 1

Complete crap. Overground, dirty and downright ugly moves up an even worse looking corner all make this one to put your best mate on!

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron

16 * Sabrasucker Trad 18m

Used to be grade 14, so it has seen more than its fair share of whimpering and battered beginner leaders. The route is excellent, and well worth a trip. Up the thin, widening crack R of GT. The crack tends to throw you off balance, but plenty of good feet help. Rest at a ledge before continuing directly up the cracks to a V-groove finish and rap anchor behind the top of the pillar.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rob Staszewski

Above Sabrasucker

The next 5 routes are above and to the right of 'Sabrasucker'.

16 R Worthless Trad 15m

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

Not very good at all. Used to be a direct finish for GT. Loose rock and questionable gear are the name of the game, with a tricky and strenuous move to finish.

FA: Fred From & Kevin Pearl, 1976


No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

False advertising at its worst. This route looks to be one of the most proud and stunning lines Frog. It isn't! The broken ramble to the corner then goes to a tricky corner problem with a seam for RPs etc on the L face. Most of the gear would hold...Maybe! The crack above is a bit of a light at the end of a very long, dark tunnel.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

21 R Sister Boogie Woman Trad 15m

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

The arete just R of Worthless. This route starts just to the L of the semi-detached pillar. Cool moves up the arete are quickly forgotten by looking at the very dodgy bolt. Easy moves up the corner to finish.

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984


A flared and ugly looking groove directly above the pillar. From there blast up to a ledge, and then, with difficulty, up a crack full of chock stones.

FA: Paul Grey & Stuart Camps, 1984

22 Slough Stuff Trad 12m

Not bad but not one to plan your whole day around either. Climb the line R of DDE up a thin crack to a rest on a sloping ledge. From here up a flake and past a piton (hand sized cams essential).

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984

Past Sabrasucker

This sector is back on the ground (Walking Track) Level starting to the right of 'Sabrasucker' and heading back towards the scree slope.

20 ** Famous Cosmetics Trad 40m

Start at the small corner R of Sabrasucker. Bridge up this to a desperate little move onto the ledge. From here motor up one of the best and most pure cracks there is at Frog to the next ledge. It is best to get off here by stepping L through the chimney and rapping off as for Sabrasucker. If you must continue, add 20m, take off all the stars, lose all the enjoyment of the last 20m and thrash up some pretty ordinary climbing to the top.

FA: Fred From & Kevin Pearl, 1978

17 * Phatang Trad 40m

Too many ledges, all directly below tricky moves. The climbing is long, confused and absorbing, but the number of hardish moves off ledges make this climb diabolical for someone just leading at the grade. Worth a lap if you're solid at 17.

FA: Rick White & Trevor Gynther, 1972

22 R Delilah Trad 40m

A technical and risky climb, although the difficulties are not sustained. Up 'Phatang' for 3m, then desperately R to a ledge and hard mantle. Continue easily up for a while, until a short hard corner section gives your nerves a final jolt! Easily after that to the top.

FA: Rob Staszewski & Dave Moss, 1979

22 R Ride Me High Trad 40m

A confused and dangerous variation of Delilah. Solo up the micro seam 2m L of Impulse, joining the line Delilah. Mantle the same hard move then R at the next ledges into a groove. Climb on and finish as for Delilah.

FA: Rob Staszewski & Dave Moss, 1979

22 ** Face Ache Trad 12m

Weird climbing up the L side of Borderline 29 arete. Not bad but there are only a few short moves of class.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Andrew Barry, 1982


Rubbish! A choss-ridden, mank infested gardener's delight. The corner to the L of FA. Approach by climbing either of the last two routes, or rap in from the LLL belay tree.

FA: Gordon Bieske & Robbie Allen, 1982

24 *** Impulse Trad 25m

A tricky start before the first gear up the twin cracks leads to a good rest at half height. Suck in large amounts of oxygen and prepare your already tiring muscles for the onslaught above! Blast straight up the line with fantastic protection and amazing moves the whole way. Balancy moves R to the ledge and rap chains keep the adrenalin flowing! It is possible to link Impulse and Borderline 29, straight up the L of the arete at the same grade.

FA: Greg Child & Kim Carrigan (YoYo), 1978


A hernia-inducing beast, up the very thin line. RPs are essential to keep you from cratering. A bouldery start up a thin corner 2m L of LLL. A difficult mantle onto the ledge that Impulse finishes on (belay from here possible). If you are keen, motor up the corner and hand crack to the top of the pillar. Finish up LLL pitch 2!

FA: Tobin Sorenson & John Allen, 1979

17 * Liquid Laughter Layback Trad 38m, 2

A scene of several serious accidents over the past years. The second route ever climbed at the cliff.

  1. An easy hand crack leads to the first of several ledges. Up the line of least resistance to a dark, tight v-groove. Up this with much grunting and difficulty. The gear in the groove is excellent, althought it can be problematic to place due to the tight nature of the chimney, and the positions you can manage to get yourself into! Belay at the top of the pillar.

  2. Up the beautiful hand crack to a ledge system. Up easily to the tree with a rap chain.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968

18 ** Borderline 29 Trad 15m

Absolute class. Step L off the pillar from the top of LLL pitch 1. Step out onto the blank face with quiet desperation and bowel rupturing exposure! Place a high runner in LLL to prevent a factor 2 flass. Up the line and arete in spectacular positions to an easy top out. The climb is up a semi-detached flake system, so placing cams is not recommended...falling on them could be quite exciting.

FA: Mike Law ('s), 1970


Gives you faith in the power of friction! Not a bad variant finish to LLL if you have already done 'Borderline 29' a few times! From the top of the same belay ledge/pillar, step into the smooth groove with a very thin crack in the back. Desperate friction bridging leads to a stance. Up the hand crack above to a spicy little sequence through the head wall above.

FA: Dave Moss & Paul Hoskins, 1983


A great variant start to LLL. Much better moves than LLL but you still wind up in the disgusting V-groove of LLL. Start around the corner 3m R of LLL. Up the line above to join LLL at the base of the groove.

FA: Ross Allen & Bill Atkinson., 1970

25 Irky Perky Trad 30m

This climb is super contrived and hard to protect. The desperate line to the R of KSDS. I am taking the word of good climbers on this one, as I was too scared to even top rope it! It simply looks brutal, contrived and unpleasant.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

21 * Close to the Edge Trad 35m

The long groove 1m right of IP requires numerous crack masteries to get to the top! Up to the bulge, passing this on the R. From here up a long and desperate off-width like corner, stepping L at the top. Gear is adequate.

FA: Greg Child & Keith Bell., 1975


This beautifully named direct finish came from the title of a porno magazine. Up the face crack on the wall to the R of CTTE. This very bouldery climb features 1 bolt, and lots of panic. Was 25, but the only jug on the whole route decided to fall off!

FA: Kim Carrigan., 1981

22 * Anal Teens Trad 35m

A variation on PP. Hard and committing. Up PP to the rooflet at 15m. Swing out L and up the crack until it re-joins PP. The only real reason to do this route is so that you can have fun answering the question "what did you do today?".

FA: Dave Moss, Marty Beare & Rick White, 1980


The first half of this climb is quite difficult with a very acrobatic and strenuous crux. Above this is a pretty average crack that steps R around a rooflet. The final crappy groove can be avoided by climbing the L face.

FA: Trevor (pineapple-eater) Gynther & John Fantini., 1975


A good variant finish for PP. A beautifully exposed arete just to the R of the final groove on PP.

FA: Paul Hoskins & Joe Lynch, 1983


Super contrived! Climb the wall in between PP and CE, with protection found in both of these climbs. Finish as described.

FA: Andrew Barry & Paul Hoskins, 1983

20 ** Corner of Eden Trad 35m

The first route ever climbed at Frog! Good bridging with adequate pro despite appearances. Excellent technical chimney climbing at the top as it narrows to a body crack. It helps to keep all your gear on a sling on your L hip! The first ascent actually skipped the top chimney by going L onto the face.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968

FFA: Rick White & Ted Cais, 1973

23 R Ground to a Halt Trad 14m

Extremely serious climbing up a very thin wall. This route goes up the faint line to the L of EP and is essentially a solo problem. Finish by traversing R along a diagonal seam back into EP. Small gear, good head space and a death with are all essential ingredients for success!

FA: Paul Hoskins & Chris Shepherd., 1982


Brilliant. A desperate little move out of the cave sees you to a stance. Blast up this to a difficult thin section at half height. Grunt up the top to the ledge. Constantly interesting with bombproof gear all combine to make this route deservedly popular!

FA: Rick White, 1973

23 R * Sticky Date Trad 10m

The blunt arete right of EP. Potential for dead branch in rectum if you fall off the crux.

Start: Do first 2m of Egotistical 'Pineapple' then right onto the arete.

FA: Two carrots added by Roger Bourne. Possibly previously top roped by Hoskins., 1995


Not the best route. The arete 1m R of EP, and just L of PP. Up a hard move to a stance and the first of 2 carrot bolts. Take a deep breath, and flail up the arete on extremely thin holds, and balancy moves. The second bolt is extremely hard to clip, and a fall at this point would result in truckloads of pain! From there continue with difficulty to the top. Not Douglas's finest hour.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Edwin Irvine, 1994

11 * Parsons Pleasure Trad 10m

A brilliant beginner's lead. Start at the obvious corner 3m R of EP. Up this line on excellent gear to the ledge. Rap chains are found here; alternatively, you can keep goign up the twin crack system at grade 15.

FA: Mike Meadows & Chris Meadows, 1969

12 Macbarren Trad 5m

Total crap. Straddle and hump the arete immediately R of PP, thrash awkwardly to the ledges. Good if you never ever waht to have children!

FA: Mac Thompson & Mike Mahoney., 1970

14 Babys Bottom Trad 8m

Grunt and bridge up the dark corner to the R of PP. From there easily to the chains above PP. The climbing is good, but a little grunty. The gear is really good, but can be awkward and strenuous to place for a novice leader.

FA: Mac Thompson & Mike Mahoney., 1970

15 Pop-up Toaster Trad 6m

The route up the corner directly above PP. From the ledge you tend to stay in the R crack, and then easily to the top.

FA: Bill Norris & Sally Norris, 1980

9 Three Nuns Trad 20m

A very short twin crack corner to a ledge stance. From there, ramble up the line of best rock and least vegetation.

FA: Mike Meadows & Chris Meadows., 1969

12 Doctor Pats Crack Trad 10m

This route is so short that it's very hard to justify uncoiling a rope and racking up. If you must, blast up the corner for about 2 moves!

FA: Chris Meadows & Mike Meadows., 1973


Check out what is happening in East of the access track.