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Description

All the climbs are listed from the far end of the left side to the right as you face the cliff.

Access issues inherited from Frog Buttress

Access to Frog was recently restricted due to a phytophthora outbreak.

The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread.of the disease.

For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

Ethic inherited from Frog Buttress

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
22 ** Parasite Drag Trad 22m

Hard to stay out of Noose! Thin climbing up the arete. Up a short crack to the ledge, the piton fell out years ago, luckily small wires provide adequate pro. Tricky moves lead to the fixed hanger. Finish direct up a small corner.

FA: Joe Lynch, Dave Demnar, Margret Smith, 1982

2
18 Noose Trad 22m

The main crack splitting the pillar with a right trending diagonal. The difficulties lie in the first diagonal section, and getting established in the crack. The body crack can be avoided by climbing the face to the left.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

3
15 Hanging Tree Trad 20m

Not the best climb at Frog! Climb the second crack right of Noose to a small ledge. From there go straight up with a desperate mantle to finish. Belay at the small tree.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

4
17 * Erectile Kingpin Trad 16m

Go up the twin edged corner to a stance on the large ledge. From there, strenuous jamming up the left facing corner to another ledge. Then easily to the rap chain.

FA: Rick White, John Hattink - (Dave Gilleson -), 1972

5
24 *** Plate Tectonics Trad 18m

Brilliant! A sustained and somewhat committing climb which features thing holds and excellent protection. Step R off the ledge from EK to the first carrot. Continue up past a second bolt, and then a long way to a piton under the right side of a tiny rooflet (can be backed up with a green "Alien"). From there, step left and up the obvious crack to finish.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Andrew Barry, 1983

6
23 De Facto Trad 18m

Barely independent of MP. A strenuous start up the thin seam just right of PT leads to a good stance. Up this through gently overhanging terrain on very poor pro. Finish up the widening crack. Not recommended.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From (avoided crux -) - Kim Carrigan added direct., 1978

7

A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. A test piece at the grade.

FA: Ross Allan, Rick White, 1970

8
14 R * Electric Lead Trad 26m

Brilliant climbing, one of the best 14s that Frog has to offer. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the tree; stars apply if you finish here. If you must, continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

FA: Steve Bell & Ian Cameron

9
17 ** Wizards Back Trad 10m

A stunning and thoroughly recommended finish to the two preceeding routes. Step warily off the ledge onto the right wall with a crescent moon shaped crack (watch the factor 2 fall off the ledge). Proceed up with much joy, and even more exposure!

FA: Kevin Pearl, Bob Ferguson, 1977

10
22 Yeah, Yeah, Yeah! Trad 28m

A lot scarier now that the 1st piton has fallen out. Start up EL, but step R out of the cave, and up to a stance at a bolt. Go up to the eerie piton hole (gear possible), and continue up the arete to the second piton. Finish directly up the nose.

FA: Andrew Barry, Robbie Allen, Gordon Bieske, 1983

11
15 Iron Butterfly Trad 28m

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with Great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m.. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route..

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett

12
13 First Layback Trad 12m

Start up SAW, step left and up onto a ledge. From here either scramble off R, or finish up the easy corner of IB. Not very good.

FA: Mac Thompson & Ron Collett

13

Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!

FA: Alan Millband & Ron Collett; Alan Millband, Ron Collett

14
17 R The Big O Trad 12m

Complete crap with a large ledge below very poor pro. If the kamikaze in you must do this, go up the ledges left of WA, and do a layback sequence up the friable flakes to the ledge.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Brian MacArthur, 1981

15
16 * Winston Alley Trad 10m

A great little climb and a good introduction to sustained bridging. The obvious corner left of Tardis. A hard 1st move gets you to a stance. From there, keep going with constant surprises to the top. Excellent gear throughout.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Ian Thomas, 1977

16
23 Vis-à-Vis Trad 10m

Contrived to say the least. Climb the arete to the right of WA past a bolt runner, without stepping into either of the surrounding climbs. There are far better routes to be climbed!

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

17
13 Tardis Trad 10m

Solid for the grade. Up the steep little corner, then take the left of the 2 grooves from the stance at 1/2 height. Excellent protection helps soothe the nerves.

FA: Steve Bell & Barry Overs

18
16 Dunston Trad 12m

Horrible. Looks a lot better than it is. The wide flake and crack to the left of Century.

FA: Unknown's, 1970

19
16 Century Trad 15m

A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1970

20
17 R * A Hundred and One Trad 12m

A bold lead. Thin, strenous and poorly protected moves feature throughout this route up the face just right of Century. From the tree step R, pray, and continue upwards on very thin moves. Falling on the gear available is not recommended.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Brian MacArthur, 1981

Rickety Kate Pillar

The following four (4) climbs are located on the detached pillar directly above Winston Alley.

This pillar can be accesses by climbing any of the routes from "First Layback" to "Tardis".

21
20 *** Rickety Kate Trad 15m

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

FA: John Hattink, Rick White - Ray Lassman, Mike Meadows (FTRA: Dec), 1973

22
18 Kronk Trad 6m

Yet another case of putting a route up just to get your name in the guide! The climb steps left at the ledge after RK corner, and has one hardish move to the chain on the tree. Good for a change of scene.

FA: Stuart Camps, Evan Bieske, 1983

23
23 Cocont Ice Trad 15m

Barely seperate climbing R of RK. On clipping the bolt, step down and R, then up on this flakes and holds to the top. Place pro in RK to keep it sane.

FA: John Pearson, Scott Camps, 1986

24
22 ** Bloody Mary Trad 16m

Often neglected. Very good climbing up a steeper than expected line. 2 possible starts are featured. Coming in from the left up past the hollow flakes and the rooflet is not recommended. The better alternative is to step in from the R on good holds. From here, up an Arapiles style crack system, unfortunately marred by loose and hollow flakes in one small section. Worth doing.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Peter Fisk (Joe Lynch Jan- Direct Start), 1983

Below Rickety Kate Pillar

The next routes start from below Rickety Kate Pillar, on the ground level and to the right.

25

Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top.

FA: Barry Overs & Steve Bell

26
17 Side-pocket Shot Trad 15m

The crack 1m R of HDZ. Grunt up this on good gear to a stance and ledge at half height. Continue up the right face (completely unprotected), or alternatively finish up the easy corner system on top of HDZ. Star only applies for the "non-death variant".

FA: Joe Lynch, Margeret Smith, 1982

27
13 Electric Mud Trad 10m

A great beginner's lead. Up the easy corner with mountains of great gear to be found. Pause for a moment to ponder the tricky exit move, flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

FA: Ian Cameron &Chris Knudsen; Ian Cameron, Chris Knudson

28
23 * Gum Nut Trad 11m

Climb straight up the arete immediately R of EM. One bolt shows the way. Protection can be found by stepping L and putting gear in EM (desperate). Delicate and fun climbing.

FA: Brian Courtney, 1983

29
22 ** The Acorn Tree Trad 12m

A great second pitch to GN. Starts about 10m R of the Rickety Kate pillar. Desperate moves off the ledge gain the first of 2 bolts. Delicate and technically challenging moves to the top, spacious protection!

FA: Scott Camps, Philip Waters, 1986

30
14 Moll Trad 25m

Absolutely disgusting climbing up the chimney to the R of GN. Many loose boulders, crap moves and thick vegetation all make this an absolute joy on some weird and sick planet.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1969

31
22 No Name Trad 12m

A crappy little wall with holds that occasionally stay attached! The short orange wall about 10m right of Moll has one bolt. Once above this, go up and right on good holds.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Malcolm Matheson, 1983

32

More dodgy moves up loose and dirty rock. The lichen and choss filled corner to the right of NN.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

33
14 Shit Heap Trad 10m

Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing.

FA: Ian Cameron & Rick White; Ian Cameron, Rick White

34
22 * Parallel Universe Trad 18m

Start up TSLD until the rest under the hanging arete. Plug in a nest of gear, whimper a little, then veer up and left running it out a long, long way until the horizontal break. Cry with relief, put in some 'thank god' gear, and continue easily to the top. Rap as for TSLD. Very run out.

FA: Ross Ferguson Gareth Llewellin

35

Classic face climbing. The thin seam takes you to a good stance at half height. Up the strenuous corner and airily onto the face. Continue shakily on (mostly) good holds. Easily to the top. Rap chain on the ledge.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From, 1978

36
15 Mechanical Prune Trad 18m

Quite good. Varied techniques are required to ascend this fine corner. Up the groove past a tree, then to an awkward constriction. Thrutch up this like a madman, or step onto the R face and skip the difficulties.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows

37
17 Dynamite Trad 18m

Not a beginner lead! Start at MP and veer right up the shallow seam. There are good placements to be found, but they are quite small, and a little fiddly. Continue up the face with quiet desperation and dodgy wires until the ledge cones to hand. Step L and finish up MP. The original route started up the thin seam on the R face, and was graded 22.

FA: Rob Stazsewski, 1979

38
11 R Condor Trad 18m

Disgusting leading up a crappy line to an even more grunty body chimney! Numerous holds and chock stones have fallen out of this route over the years, and the route has been reduced from one of class to that of complete infamy. Belay from MP chains.

FA: Ian Cameron & Chris Knudsen

39
18 Last Picture Show Trad 22m

Not a great addition to the cliff. Up Condor for a while (you have already been warned!). Step R into a horrible, wide, groin-breaking, wide V-groove with not a lot of good protection.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Thomas, 1974

40
20 Back Row Trad 12m

Weird! Wanders up a pile of ledges to the same ledge that Fawlty Towers finishes on. Numerous short corners and cracks of varying lengths and widths follow, protection and rock are good. Still a bit of a "Gardener's Delight".

FA: Rick White, Paul Edwards, 1979

41

The first bolted route at Frog! Kim Carrigan promptly skipped the bolt on the second ascent, reclaiming the hardness of Frog from the bolt-clipping infidels! Starts at the small crack 3m L of MPFC (although most parties start from the ledge above). Off-balance moves up the thin diagonal crack to an awkward move into a sentry box to gain a rest. From here, clip the bolt, step R, and blast straight up the face to easier ground.

FA: Joe Lynch, Dave Demnar, 1981

42

Thin, fingery and reachy direct start to BAN. Not the greatest but worth doing if you're in the area. Up the face 2m L of MPFC, follow the bolts.

FA: Matt Hutton

43
21 Boris and Natasha Trad 22m

Shaky climbing on friable holds. Up the bottom crack of YUTV to a ledge. Lean out R and clip the bolt. Step down and traverse out R to the arete. From here, bowel quivering moves lead past another bolt, and some questionable RP's to the top.

FA: John Pearson, Chris Frost, Bill Lukin, 1987

44

Really good. The desperate blank V-groove once had a piton in it, although the "Ethics Police" removed it... 3 times! (It had been climbed for 15 years without need of a piton!) Despite appearances, the groove can be climbed quite safely using friction, prayer and a whole bunch of RP's and micro cams. Flop onto the ledge, whimper and gaze upwards! From here a magnificent corner featuring 3 cracks and classic climbing await you.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Cameron, 1972

45

A variant finish to MPFC. Start up MPFC, from the ledge turn away from the amazing corner on the left and tear up the grotty crack on the right wall.

FA: Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

46
22 * Fawlty Towers Trad 10m

Step off the ledge where MPFC finishes, behind a large tree to a corner system on an obscure buttress, capped by a small roof at 3m. Traverse shakily R under this to a ledge. Balancy and technical moves upward bring a smile to your face!

FA: Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

47
18 X Death Road 2,000 Trad 22m

Complete crap. The horrible blank line 3m R of MPFC actually looks a lot better than it is (which is really saying something). Climb directly up the line over numerous loose blocks, piles of dirt and the bones of the last maniac who was desperate enough to lead such utter mank.

FA: Allen Hansen, Ray Lassman, 1984

48
19 * Peaches and Cream Trad 20m

Some people really like this climb; I don't. Climb the shallow corner 5m R of DR2000 and then follow the line. Fiddly pro and dirty rock add to the experience. Belay either hanging from the tree (desperate but strangely cool), or get onto the ledge R of the tree and belay from there.

FA: Bill Noris, Sally Norris, 1980

49
15 R Tarzans Dilemma Trad 20m

Tarzan was on drugs! The dirty groove past a tree to a ledge. Continue up the corner R of PC. Keep going up the mank until you want to either stop, or kill yourself from getting on such utter rubbish.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1969

50
22 Boltophobia Arete Trad 8m

The crappy little arete in between TD and AG. It features one crotch destroying high step, and that's about it! Gear can be found in the corner to the R (AG).

51
13 R Asbestos Grapefruit Trad 22m

The second masterpiece in the "lord of the crap climbs" trilogy. Up the corner R of BA. Continue up a broken and heavily vegetated line, with loose rocks thrown in for free!

FA: Steve Bell, Ron Collett, 1969

52
15 R Let it Bleed Trad 25m

Scott Camps summed it up best when he said "Let it be Forgotten". Up to a short tricky corner in the vertical jungle. It's so bad that it actually makes AG look like a good alternative!

FA: Steve Bell, Dave Kahler, 1972

53
20 Yokomo Trad 15m

Really good, but very short. Boulder up the shallow corner on small gear to the ledge. A few moves up the grunty corner take you to the next ledge. Carefully up loose gully to DMEG anchor.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

54

Classic climbing. Start up Yokomo, and at the ledge take a deep breath, swing out onto the arete and up to a stance and a carrot bolt. The bolt looks to be in the wrong place, but is exactly where you need it! A high runner is possible in Yokomo to stop decking out. From there, fantastic and constantly absorbing climbing leads to the top. RPs are essential at the top.

FA: Simon Vallings, Russell Chudleigh, 1984

55
16 Mainliner Trad 20m

Pretty tough little climb, but well worth it. Up the pillar to the perfect line. Blast up this to a desperate mantle onto the ledge. From there up easily.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

56

Bridge the pillar and crack line up to a good stance. Step R into the crack and up. Brilliant jamming. Go R up the gully to the abseil tree.

FA: Rob Stazsewski, Richard Sullivan, 1971

57

Great finger locking up a thin seam. A little tricky to protect lay backing, but well worth the trip. Quite technical and strenuous.

FA: Fred From, 1977

58

At the ledge, keep going straight up the scooped arete, as opposed to stepping off R to the tree. Good for a change of scene, but that's about it.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Stuart Camps, Dave Moss, Odette Moss, 1983

59

The super thin finger crack to the right of DMEG. Short and pumpy, the difficulties are over within a few moves. Rap as for DMEG.

FA: Dave Moss and party., 1982

60

Hard to find. Starts high in the mank below (R as you face the cliff) the tourist lookout. Climb up a short crack on a small orange faced buttress. From the horizontal, launch directly up the face.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1983

61

The crappy corner to the right of TFYP is a close contender for the "worst route on the cliff" award. A single move among the bushes and mank may be found.

FA: Steve Bell, Ron Collett, 1969

62
20 R Cut Short Trad 13m

Crappy and dangerous. The corner found on the L side of the dark buttress to the R of DSEB. Up this and then traverse off L.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Robbie Allen, 1982

63
19 R Cheetah Trad 10m

The R hand line on the same buttress. Disgusting, confused climbing that goes nowhere.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1982

64
9 R Fluorescent Mank Trad 25m

Why would you do this to yourself? Strap on a chainsaw, gloves and helmet... then thrash for glory up the line of least vegetation and mank to the top of the broken amphitheatre.

FA: Dave Gilleson, 1969

65
11 R Revolution Trad 30m

A revolution goes around and around, constantly smacking you in the face. Well named! A horrible moss-laden chimney at the start is a fair indication of the quality of broken rock and climbing that is to follow.

FA: Marilyn Dall, Pat Prentergast, 1969

66
18 Thing Trad 5m

Left of Erg is a 5m block. Boulder the L arete of this to the top. Good climbing, but falling would not be pleasant.

FA: Kevin Pearl, 1979

67
20 ** Erg Trad 25m

One of the most impressive lines on the cliff. Bridge up the line until the pillar stops. Step into the crack and blast up the ever widening crack. Chock stones and large gear can protect the top body chimney adequately.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1973

68
22 *** Erg Direct Trad 25m

Brilliant, the way to go if you can climb the grade. Up the finger crack without bridging.

69

A good way to avoid the body chimney of Erg. Step L into a short finger crack and blast up this to the top. Quite good.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Natalie Green, 1983

70
25 ** Hard Nose Trad 25m

Classic arete climbing. Go up BL, step out L at the fixed hanger. Blast up the arete past 2 more hangers while your right arm gets the workout of the century! Finish up BL.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

71
26 ** Hard Nose DS Unknown 5m

Even better than Hard Nose. Step out L a little lower to a square cut hold on the arete. Clip the carrot bolt and proceed to wobble up 4m of balancy desperation bringing amazing movement and positions to hand.

72
22 *** Black Light Trad 25m

Brilliant climbing up and amazing line. A thin and bouldery start leads to a searing corner of unsurpassed quality. Thin hand jams and finger locks lead exhaustingly to a ledge. From there, continue easily to the belay tree.

FA: Ian Lewis, Rick White, 1975

73
18 R Blood of the Christ Trad 25m

Not so good. Thrutch and jam up the initial corner system until it eases in the middle. Head up the crack and round the overhang to the ledge. The protection is ample, but fiddly and awkward to place on the lead. Rap from tree.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

74
22 *** Child in Time Trad 25m

Simply amazing. A tough start leads to one of the most sustained and awesome climbs imaginable. The gear throughout is bombproof, and the climb itself is a contender for the best route on the cliff, regardless of grade.

FA: FA White/Cais 1973, FFA Barber 1975

75
28 ** Debrilla Trad 25m

Originally named "Dobrilla" by ML after a friend, a typo in the guide resulted in Debrilla.

An awesome climb featuring strenuous and unique movement to gain the top. Mixed wires and bolt protection lead the way, with a desperate arete slapping technique similar to bear hugging fridges required to gain the jug. Finish up CIT

FA: Mike Law, 1988

76

A hardish move onto the ledge (step in from the R) gains a rest. From here blast up the unrelenting twin crack system until your arms and legs wish to explode! Gain a slight rest under a bulge, and then blissfully climb the single crack to the ledge. Walk L through the cave/chimney to rap off as for BC.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

77
21 ** Venom Trad 25m

Classic off-width thrashing up a glass smooth overhanging crack line... surprisingly unpopular really! Finish up a finger crack. It is very difficult not to step on or kick your gear out of place on the way up. Football jersey, jeans and knee pads are optional! Climbed by Ted Cais and Ian Thomas with one rest and avoiding the direct finish in July 1973.

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

78
16 Fat Mattress Trad 30m

Start up Venom and step R at 3m. Bridge up a slightly overhanging corner crack system to a ledge. Crank hard off the ledge to get up the next hand crack with some difficulty, then to a rest. Easily to the top. Bolt anchor/belay. Used to be graded 15!! The direct start still awaits a clean ascent. Climbed by Rick White and Ian Cameron by aiding the start in Jan 1971.

FA: Steve Bell, 1972

79

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2007

80
24 Swashbuckler Trad 15m
81
15 Holy Ghost Trad 15m

The disgusting body chimney R of FM. Destroy your body, grunting up this disgusting excuse for climbing, finish as for FM.

FA: Rick White (solo), 1971

82
24 Keep Left Trad 15m

Brutal climbing, sustained and difficult. Crank up the smooth line, all sorts of lay-aways and locks are required to grunt up this one.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Greg Child, 1978

83

Desperate and grunty finger locking up a glass smooth corner. It can be made considerably easier by use of the "secret" foot jamming technique. Buy Rob a beer at the pub for all the info!

FA: Nic Taylor, Rob Staszewski, Rick White, 1976

84
23 The Anti-Crookneck Trad 20m

A good second pitch to the two previous routes. The ridiculously blank looking corner 5m L of KL with 2 pitons is where this mission starts! From there continue desperately until it is possible to wobble R to easier ground. Step L when able to, and finish steeply up the L side of the arete. Double ropes are thoroughly recommended for this lead.

FA: Fred From, Joe Lynch, 1983

85
25 *** Carrion Comfort Trad 25m

Named "Forever Young" by Rob when he freed the line... although it had already been named Carrion Comfort by the FA party! A visionary effort by Rob Staszewski, and, for a long time, the hardest route put up by a local climber. Desperate locking and laybacks lead the way up the leaning corner. Great gear can be found, stopping to place it is the trick! Rap off a small fig tree. A test piece for any aspiring crack master!

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1979

86
27 Catcher in the Rye Trad 25m

Super thin face climbing up the shallow V-groove. A high runner in Inquisition can reduce the potential for gravity to slap you about. Top rope the initial section (achieved by using The Force/levitation), then go up the sustained corner.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

87
19 ** Inquisition Trad 25m

Really good climbing that deserves to be more popular. Follow the crack system to the large ledge. From here, blast up the off-width corner, stopping to wonder how people stay attached to WK! Step R up a face crack, and then to an easy but loose finish. Number 4-6 cams (BD) or big bros are essential to do this route safely.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1973

88
32 *** Whistling Kite Trad 30m

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

FA: Paul Smith, 1988

89

Start off the pillar below WK. Grunt up the initial off-width with a shaky cam keeping things sane. A line of bolts leads the way up this route with stunning positions and insanely classy movement throughout. The top section is quite run out, and very thin.

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner

90
20 * Cannabis Crack Trad 35m

Brutal grunting up a visciously smooth corner. It also features quite a tricky start. All in all, there are far better routes to go and beat yourself up upon!

FA: Trevor Gynther, Ian Thomas, 1975

91

A classic grunt up a great line with a tree at half height. Quite strenuous and difficult in places, but excellent protection is available throughout. Head R at the top. Originally graded 15! Has been the scene of several serious falls.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

92
26 *** Future Tense Trad 40m

Climb up BST until the tree. The original start up the desperate line 1m to the R is so thin and under protected that it has never been repeated. From the tree, step up and R to follow the increasingly difficult line. Desperate, thin climbing featuring one hell of a sting in the tail!

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

93
22 R * Badfinger Trad 30m

Quite challenging. A hard start to an off-width crack. From here blast up a pleasant finger crack taking a well-earned rest on a ledge. Jam up to a tree, then climb a fear-inducing face to easy finish.

FA: Henry Barber, John Fantini, 1975

94
27 ** The Lords Prayer Trad 30m

With under 10 ascents in 21 years this is definitely a route not to be taken lightly! On one early attempt, Ian Cameron pulled off a 20m lead fall!!! Incredibly thin edging (to the point of requiring levitation abilities) up the steep face split by a micro seam. Micro cams and RPs provide adequate but spacious protection.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1973

95
19 Blody Red Rooster Trad 25m

Complete and utter mank. A vine-filled pile of crap that should never have been climbed.

FA: Joe Friend, Kim Carrigan, 1973

96
23 ** Satanic Majesty Trad 30m

Blast up for a few moves then traverse L to a diagonal crack. Strenuous jams that don't quite work as well as you want to provide barrels of fun! The steep hand crack above is superb!

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

97
27 * Hallowed Ground Trad 30m

A visionary effort by Matt. The improbably thin line to the right of SM provides good movement on very thin holds throughout. Superb positions and style, with Matt's "at least you won't hit the deck" bolt spacing technique providing loads of spice!! A little contrived, but worth a lap.

FA: Matt Hutton, 2003

98
16 R Our Father Trad 45m

A long and brutal expedition with no real rewards for the effort. Start as for SM, then thrash your way up the never-ending corner of doom! A great climb for those who are into self-inflicted pain and suffering.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1970

99
19 R Suggestive Poses Trad 25m

Not a whole lot better. Climb OF for the first few meters to a ledge. From there, step R into a dark corner and up. Halfway up the corner, step R at a piton that may ho an ant's body weight. Scarily up the arete to the top of the pillar. Down climb this easily to get off.

FA: Joe Lynch, Roger Bourne, Margert Smith, 1983

100

Really tough finger crack boulder problem to start. The good climbing ends here. If you must...continue up the body chimney for extra "old school" status!

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White. Rick White, Ian Cameron ., 1976

101
22 ** Steel Fingers Trad 40m

Brilliant climbing up a very classy line. The grade is 21 if you blast up the side and skip the diabolically thin start of WAIH! From the ledge, motor up the orange-faced corner system on great locks and better pro, At the rooflet, step R around the arete and follow the obvious line to the top. Rope drag can really be an issue on this climb. Twin ropes or long slings recommended.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

102
20 * Rack and Ruin Trad 40m

Quite easy to get lost on this and wind up doing another route! Start up LOTF until you come to a shallow finger crack in a corner on the pillar to the left. Blast up this to the top. Pretty tough for the grade.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

103
20 * Lord of the Flies Trad 40m

Not a great route. It starts with good finger locks, but quickly reverts to a long and crappy groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

104

The rarely done bread stroker's alternate start was the original start...not recommended. Start up the off-width 1m to the L at the V-Groove.

FA: Ted Cais, 1974

105

Was the scene of a freak accident in 2006.

Climber survived a ground fall after his rope was sliced in two by the sharp edge.

A good place to practice placing big bros etc. This short very wide crack is an absolute must for all aspiring masters of the trutch!

FA: Ted Cais, Jim Bright, Rick White, 1973

106

More crap...up the other wide of the pillar. Start up the flake, then wander up assorted atrocities until you collapse onto Theory Ledge, vowing never to climb this again.

FA: Trevor Gynther, Rhys Davies, 1973

107
15 Syrius Trad 20m

A crappy little off-width continues up to an equally dodgy line above. Not very good.

FA: Rick White, Barry Overs, 1971

108
22 Snipe Mixed 23m, 2

Tough. A dyno ff the ground sets the theme. Follow this up the arete past 2 bolts. Hard not to step into Pollux. Finish on Theory Ledge.

FA: Robbie Allen, Marty Beare, 1983

109
20 ** Pollux Trad 23m

Probably the toughest 20 at Frog if you can't climb off-widths! Disregard this if you have a foot-long beard and 20-year-old EB boots in your possession. Up the brilliant hand crack to the off-balance, off-width through two bulges. Big cams keep things sane. Really impressive climbing!

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1974

110
16 * Castor Trad 22m

Great climbing and a fair introduction to the lost art of off-width climbing at the top. The hard move onto the ledge has seen more than one "head jam" attempt, although this is not a requirement of the route!

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

111
25 Elven Castle Sport 25m

Bolted

FA: Matt

112
25 ** The Elven King Sport 25m, 3

Although top roped by numerous people in the past, it took Matt's vision to actually prepare and lead this amazing route. Named after the 3 Rings for the Elven Kings in Tolkein's masterpiece "The Lord of the Rings". Up a thin line on natural gear to a very tricky step left. Move up steep, thin and unrelenting face climbing past 3 ring bolts. From there, easily up and R to the top of Theory (need big cam).

FA: Matt Hutton, Kerrod Davidson., 2001

113
14 * Theory Trad 25m

Up the first corner to a ledge. From here, most people step into the middle line under the R edge of a huge chock stone-like flake. Up this with increasing difficulty to rest. Alternatively, you can go up SC for a move or two and step in L. From here, blast up the chock stone filled corner, and then easily to the chains at the tree.

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett; Rick White, Ron Collett; Rick White, Ron Collett

114
18 * Sacrilege Crack Trad 25m

Someone once got their leg stuck in this crack and had to call the SES.

The route immediately R of Theory. Up an ever widening crack that trends R up a pillar. Wide and desperate, but it does have some good moments.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1972

Theory Ledge

This ledge features some classic climbs and is a great way to spend an afternoon. The ledge can be approached by climbing any of the climbs between 'Onlooker's Omelette Left Side' and 'The Elven King'.

Alternatively a tree marked with "FC" in its trunk shows the way to the rap into the ledge from the top. It should be mentioned that the tree is a little hard to find the first time, so look hard.

115
16 Forked Tongue Trad 15m

Though for the grade! This route at the far L end of the ledge is at you from the first move! Varied crack and face climbing leads up to a final tight V-groove at the top. The trick at the start is deep jamming!

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1973

116
16 Moonlighter Trad 15m

The second classy 16 to be found on this ledge. Start up the broken rocks to a L facing corner. Up this and then step R onto the ledge. The gear is good, but a little fiddly to place.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

117
17 R Gangrene Trad 15m

Up Moonlighter for 3m and then step R onto the wall. Up this on friable flakes and large amounts of adrenalin.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Gordon Bieske, 1982

118
19 * Off the Wall Trad 13m

Classy climbing unfortunately marred by a ledge at half height. Bridge desperately or layback the thin crack up the dark corner to a ledge. Rest here and then launch up the classy line above. One tricky move sees you to the top. A little weird to protect in places. But the gear is great once you figure it out.

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976

119
22 Slippin' Away Trad 13m

Hard and thin. Blast up the unbelievably thin line directly above Theory. Bridge, layback, levitate and slap your way to the top. Quite a serious route.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

120
18 * Farty Clacker Trad 12m

A climb best led on twin ropes. Start up SA for 4m placing a high runner in the corner. A tricky move R around the arete brings a stance and some much awaited protection. Blast up the crack and arete. Good fun.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Dave Moss, 1982

121
19 ** Southern Comfort Trad 15m

The best line off the ledge. A very smooth corner with some grunty finger locking the key to success. Great gear and movement make this a must do.

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976

122

FA: Merry and Dan (NZ), 2009

123
20 Into the Fire Trad 12m

This route no longer exists as it fell to the bottom of the cliff. Description here for historic purposes.

A two-move wonder right off the ledge, but what a hell of a way to start the climb! Desperately thin moves to a stance, sigh of relief and gear, easily up the fist crack to finish. Should be more popular.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

Right of Sacrilege Crack

Back on ground level and to the right of 'Sacrilege Crack'.

124
14 R Grandma's Tonic Mixed 18m, 1

Complete crap. Overground, dirty and downright ugly moves up an even worse looking corner all make this one to put your best mate on!

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron

125
16 R * Sabrasucker Trad 18m

Used to be grade 14, so it has seen more than its fair share of whimpering and battered beginner leaders. The route is excellent, and well worth a trip. Up the thin, widening crack R of GT. The crack tends to throw you off balance, but plenty of good feet help. Rest at a ledge before continuing directly up the cracks to a V-groove finish. Belay at the ledge off a rap chain and great natural pro.

Rap off 'Theory' Ledge.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rob Staszewski

Above Sabrasucker

The next 5 routes are above and to the right of 'Sabrasucker'.

126
16 R Worthless Trad 15m

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

Not very good at all. Used to be a direct finish for GT. Loose rock and questionable gear are the name of the game, with a tricky and strenuous move to finish.

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1976

127

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

False advertising at its worst. This route looks to be one of the most proud and stunning lines Frog. It isn't! The broken ramble to the corner then goes to a tricky corner problem with a seam for RPs etc on the L face. Most of the gear would hold...Maybe! The crack above is a bit of a light at the end of a very long, dark tunnel.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

128
21 R Sister Boogie Woman Trad 15m

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

The arete just R of Worthless. This route starts just to the L of the semi-detached pillar. Cool moves up the arete are quickly forgotten by looking at the very dodgy bolt. Easy moves up the corner to finish.

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984

129

A flared and ugly looking groove directly above the pillar. From there blast up to a ledge, and then, with difficulty, up a crack full of chock stones.

FA: Paul Grey, Stuart Camps, 1984

130
22 Slough Stuff Trad 12m

Not bad but not one to plan your whole day around either. Climb the line R of DDE up a thin crack to a rest on a sloping ledge. From here up a flake and past a piton (hand sized cams essential).

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984

Past Sabrasucker

This sector is back on the ground (Walking Track) Level starting to the right of 'Sabrasucker' and heading back towards the scree slope.

131
20 * Famous Cosmetics Trad 40m

Start at the small corner R of Sabrasucker. Bridge up this to a desperate little move onto the ledge. From here motor up one of the best and most pure cracks there is at Frog to the next ledge. It is best to get off here by stepping L through the chimney and rapping off as for Sabrasucker. If you must continue, add 20m, take off all the stars, lose all the enjoyment of the last 20m and thrash up some pretty ordinary climbing to the top.

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1978

132
17 Phatang Trad 40m

Too many ledges, all directly below tricky moves. The climbing is long, confused and absorbing, but the number of hardish moves off ledges make this climb diabolical for someone just leading at the grade. Worth a lap if you're solid at 17.

FA: Rick White, Trevor Gynther, 1972

133
22 R Delilah Trad 40m

A technical and risky climb, although the difficulties are not sustained. Up 'Phatang' for 3m, then desperately R to a ledge and hard mantle. Continue easily up for a while, until a short hard corner section gives your nerves a final jolt! Easily after that to the top.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

134
22 R Ride Me High Trad 40m

A confused and dangerous variation of Delilah. Solo up the micro seam 2m L of Impulse, joining the line Delilah. Mantle the same hard move then R at the next ledges into a groove. Climb on and finish as for Delilah.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

135
22 Face Ache Trad 12m

Weird climbing up the L side of Borderline 29 arete. Not bad but there are only a few short moves of class.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Andrew Barry, 1982

136

Rubbish! A choss-ridden, mank infested gardener's delight. The corner to the L of FA. Approach by climbing either of the last two routes, or rap in from the LLL belay tree.

FA: Gordon Bieske, Robbie Allen, 1982

137
24 *** Impulse Trad 25m

Unbelievable awe-inspiring climbing. Possibly the best climb at Frog. A tricky start up the twin cracks leads to a good rest at half height. Suck in large amounts of oxygen and prepare your already tiring muscles for the onslaught above! Blast straight up the line with fantastic protection and amazing moves the whole way. Balancy moves R to the ledge and rap chains keep the adrenalin flowing! It is possible to link Impulse and Borderline 29, straight up the L of the arete at the same grade.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (YoYo), 1978

138

A hernia-inducing beast, up the very thin line. RPs are essential to keep you from cratering. A bouldery start up a thin corner 2m L of LLL. A difficult mantle onto the ledge that Impulse finishes on (belay from here possible). If you are keen, motor up the corner and hand crack to the top of the pillar. Finish up LLL pitch 2!

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

139

A scene of several serious accidents over the past years. The second route ever climbed at the cliff.

  1. An easy hand crack leads to the first of several ledges. Up the line of least resistance to a dark, tight v-groove. Up this with much grunting and difficulty. The gear in the groove is excellent, althought it can be problematic to place due to the tight nature of the chimney, and the positions you can manage to get yourself into! Belay at the top of the pillar.

  2. Up the beautiful hand crack to a ledge system. Up easily to the tree with a rap chain.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

140
18 *** Borderline 29 Trad 15m

Absolute class. Step L off the pillar from the top of LLL pitch 1. Step out onto the blank face with quiet desperation and bowel rupturing exposure! Place a high runner in LLL to prevent a factor 2 flass. Up the line and arete in spectacular positions to an easy top out. The climb is up a semi-detached flake system, so placing cams is not recommended...falling on them could be quite exciting.

FA: Mike Law ('s), 1970

141

Gives you faith in the power of friction! Not a bad variant finish to LLL if you have already done 'Borderline 29' a few times! From the top of the same belay ledge/pillar, step into the smooth groove with a very thin crack in the back. Desperate friction bridging leads to a stance. Up the hand crack above to a spicy little sequence through the head wall above.

FA: Dave Moss, Paul Hoskins, 1983

142

Direct start of LLL.

FA: Ross Allen, Bill Atkinson., 1970

143
25 Irky Perky Trad 30m

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

144
21 Close to the Edge Trad 35m

FA: Greg Child, Keith Bell., 1975

145

FA: Kim Carrigan., 1981

146
22 Anal Teens Trad 35m

FA: Dave Moss, Marty Beare, Rick White, 1980

147

FA: Trevor (pineapple-eater) Gynther, John Fantini., 1975

148

FA: Paul Hoskins, Joe Lynch, 1983

149
23 Bongos Direct Trad 25m

Another Andrew Barry classic?

FA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1983

150
20 * Corner of Eden Trad 35m

First route done on the cliff by Rick White and Chris Meadows with two aids in Aug 1968.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais., 1973

151
23 R Ground to a Halt Trad 14m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Shepherd., 1982

152

FA: Rick White, 1973

153
23 R * Sticky Date Trad 10m

The blunt arete right of EP. Potential for dead branch in rectum if you fall off the crux.

Start: Do first 2m of Egotistical 'Pineapple' then right onto the arete.

FA: Two carrots added by Roger Bourne. Possibly previously top roped by Hoskins., 1995

154
23 Guilt By Association Sport 10m

It is a 10m high blunt arete with two BR's to finish at the same ledge as EP. It either scoots into Egotistical after the last bolt (which makes it pretty short) or goes staight up arete (v hard and contrived). Neither makes for a great route apparently.

155
11 Parsons Pleasure Trad 10m

Good beginners route.

FA: Mike Meadows, Chris Meadows

156
12 Macbarren Trad 5m

FA: Mac Thompson, Mike Mahoney., 1970

157
14 Babys Bottom Trad 8m

FA: Mac Thompson, Mike Mahoney., 1970

158
15 Pop-up Toaster Trad 6m

Above the previous three routes. Right crack.

FA: Bill Norris, Sally Norris, 1980

159
9 Three Nuns Trad 20m

FA: Mike Meadows, Chris Meadows., 1969

160
12 Doctor Pats Crack Trad 10m

FA: Chris Meadows, Mike Meadows., 1973