East of the access track Mostly trad climbing160 routes in sector
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This sector is back on the ground (Walking Track) Level starting to the right of "Sabrasucker Ledge" and heading back towards the SCREE SLOPE.
Access issues inherited from Frog Buttress
Access to Frog was recently restricted due to a phytophthora outbreak.
The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread.of the disease.
For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure
Ethic inherited from Frog Buttress
Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.
Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.
Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.
Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!
Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with Great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m.. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route..
FA: Rick White & Ron Collett
Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!
FA: Alan Millband, Ron Collett; Alan Millband & Ron Collett
A great little climb and a good introduction to sustained bridging. The obvious corner left of Tardis. A hard 1st move gets you to a stance. From there, keep going with constant surprises to the top. Excellent gear throughout.
FA: Rob Staszewski & Ian Thomas, 1977
Contrived to say the least. Climb the arete to the right of WA past a bolt runner, without stepping into either of the surrounding climbs. There are far better routes to be climbed!
FA: Andrew Barry, 1984
Solid for the grade. Up the steep little corner, then take the left of the 2 grooves from the stance at 1/2 height. Excellent protection helps soothe the nerves.
FA: Steve Bell & Barry Overs
Horrible. Looks a lot better than it is. The wide flake and crack to the left of Century.
FA: Unknown's, 1970
A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.
FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1970
A bold lead. Thin, strenous and poorly protected moves feature throughout this route up the face just right of Century. From the tree step R, pray, and continue upwards on very thin moves. Falling on the gear available is not recommended.
FA: Kevin Pearl & Brian MacArthur, 1981
Rickety Kate Pillar
The following four (4) climbs are located on the detached pillar directly above Winston Alley.
Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!
FA: John Hattink, Rick White - Ray Lassman & Mike Meadows (FTRA: Dec), 1973
Yet another case of putting a route up just to get your name in the guide! The climb steps left at the ledge after RK corner, and has one hardish move to the chain on the tree. Good for a change of scene.
FA: Stuart Camps & Evan Bieske, 1983
Often neglected. Very good climbing up a steeper than expected line. 2 possible starts are featured. Coming in from the left up past the hollow flakes and the rooflet is not recommended. The better alternative is to step in from the R on good holds. From here, up an Arapiles style crack system, unfortunately marred by loose and hollow flakes in one small section. Worth doing.
FA: Jeff Lamb & Peter Fisk (Joe Lynch Jan- Direct Start), 1983
Below Rickety Kate Pillar
The next routes start from below Rickety Kate Pillar, on the ground level and to the right.
Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top.
FA: Barry Overs & Steve Bell
The crack 1m R of HDZ. Grunt up this on good gear to a stance and ledge at half height. Continue up the right face (completely unprotected), or alternatively finish up the easy corner system on top of HDZ. Star only applies for the "non-death variant".
FA: Joe Lynch & Margeret Smith, 1982
A great beginner's lead. Up the easy corner with mountains of great gear to be found. Pause for a moment to ponder the tricky exit move, flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!
FA: Ian Cameron, Chris Knudsen; Ian Cameron & Chris Knudson
Absolutely disgusting climbing up the chimney to the R of GN. Many loose boulders, crap moves and thick vegetation all make this an absolute joy on some weird and sick planet.
FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1969
A crappy little wall with holds that occasionally stay attached! The short orange wall about 10m right of Moll has one bolt. Once above this, go up and right on good holds.
FA: Paul Hoskins & Malcolm Matheson, 1983
More dodgy moves up loose and dirty rock. The lichen and choss filled corner to the right of NN.
FA: Stuart Camps & Scott Camps, 1983