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Description

This is a disctinct pillar feature wich has a detached rock pillar on the downhill side, which has a large cave like cut away section. There is a thin tree growing in between the main pillar and detached pillars.

Access issues inherited from Frog Buttress

Access to Frog was recently restricted due to a phytophthora outbreak.

The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread.of the disease.

For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

Ethic inherited from Frog Buttress

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route
1
14 Trick or Treat Trad 4m

What a complete waste of time, paper and oxygen! Yet another case of beard stroking bumblies at work.

FA: Bill Norris, 1980

2
22 Left Behind Trad
3
22 R * Lord Drool Sport 6m

Really good climbing, a pity about the gear. Start on the ledge above SOH. Off-balance moves up a L leaning seam get you to a stance and a very lonely carrot bolt. From there sequency and thin moves see you to the top. Easier if you reach around to the R. Potential for a very effective deck-out if you fall from near the top. A good candidate for top roping.

FA: Richard Henderson, 1986

4
20 R Sleight of Hand Trad 8m

Really very good and deserves to be more popular. Originally done as a solo. The small dark wall to the left of COC offers enjoyable and classy face climbing. Yet another top rope candidate as the climbing should really not be missed. Take off a grade if you're tall!

FA: Kevin Pearl (solo), 1979

5

Very popular, mainly due to the fact that it stays in the shade all day! Classy but technical climbing ascends the very obvious corner R of SOH. Excellent gear with a slightly awkward and overhung crux. Up easily to belay at the trees on the large ledge.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

6
23 Bel-air Trad 15m

Up the crack on the R edge of the COC chimney. Climb this till it ends at a daunting overhang. Whack in a nest of gear and blast for the bolt (carrot) over a hard bulge for a move or two. Continue R and finish easily.

FA: Paul Hoskins Re-established by Richard Henderson, Paul AcAntee, 1980

7
17 R ** Blow by Blow Mixed 18m, 1

Solo up the face of the pillar to the left of OA up to a ledge and tree. It is best to get off there. If you must, climb the shallow seam just to the L of OA on very dodgy pro to the top.

FA: Mike Law, 1970

8
14 Orchid Alley Trad 20m

Often nicknamed "Awkward Alley". This climb gets far more attention than it deserves. Climb a great hand crack corner to a flake at 3m... the good climbing ends there. Blast up the wide and grunty crack to the ledge with a tree on the L. From here 3 lines are possible, the L most is probably the best option, but they all suck!

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

9

No good. The dark chimney to the left of DWHP offers basically no protection and is a desperate and scary lead for the novice climber. A large block at half height provides the crux as well as the only decent piece of pro!

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

10
24 ** Down With His Pants Mixed 20m, 3

Arete following up 3 carrots just on the left of the scree slope. Start just to the right of 'SA' chimney.

Stuart Camps and Gordon Bieske originally did the top crack in March 1983, called Runners are Nuts.

FA: Roger Bourne, Evan Bieske, 1985

11
19 Nemesis Trad 25m

This wide and daunting crack has seen more than its fair share of aspiring leaders turned into a dribbling, pumped, senseless mass of despair! The gear is excellent, but make sure you take up plenty of big gear to protect this climb adequately. Without this protection, a ground fall is extremely probable. Lay back up the first crack on polished foot holds to a ledge at 6m. From here, thrash up the wide crack until it is possible to step R. Easily to the top.

FA: Ted Cais, Mike Meadows, 1969

12
23 Lambs Fry Trad 25m

Very difficult for the vertically challenged! Kick off the tree to get up the initial blank corner. A hard mantle onto a choss-filled ledge gains a rest. Up the cracked arete above.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Dave Wagland, 1980

13
12 Lape Trad 27m

An absolute must do for the aspiring hex-clanking, hemp rope-using, old school, lord of thrutch! The horrible tight chimney to the L of AS. A difficult move off the top of the pillar and fairly dodgy pro all the way add to the ambience of this climb.

FA: Lance Rutherford and BWC party., 1969

14
21 American Snake Trad 27m

Up Lape to the top of the pillar (you have already been warned). Step R and up the arete, then good pro and moves in the crack above. The move off the pillar is hard and unprotected.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Fred From., 1981

15
22 * No Return Trad 30m

Start up the finger crack in the V-groove R of Lape, step off the top of the pillar, but continue out to the arete. Up this shaky affair past a roof to a ledge. Continue up and around R to finish. Absolutely desperate, with quite small and shallow gear at the crux!

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1979

16

The corner above the ledge. Not really a lot better than the original.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

17
25 R ** Life at the Top Trad 30m

Quite risky and serious. Climb the tree R of NR until you can step onto the blank face above the bulge. Follow a thin pocketed seam until it ends, keep going R until a jug comes to hand. Mantle as for NR.

FA: Chris Shepard. Roger Bourne eliminated the two fixed slings., 1982

18
27 ** Time for Tea Trad 35m

Classy climbing up a visionary line. Go up the broken corner R of NR, to some rooflets. Past these on the left, passing bolts. From here, veer up and L (nut possible), then begin angling diagonally to the arete. From there, veer L to the top on super thin holds, and quite exposed climbing.

FA: Steve Mayers, 1987

19

Death. Start at the arete just R of TFT. Climb past 2 bolts and a wire at the roof. From here, climb with tendon-rupturing brutality up the arete and wall past the gap where Rob removed the bolts, thereby returning the route to its original state. This was done to hounour Rick Whites' dream of a bolt-free cliff.

FA: Rob Staszewski. Direct start added by Scott Camps., 1984

20
22 Fat Dog Trad 10m

The utterly contrived piece of junk to the L of A1. Step off the rock pedestal onto the arete. Climb the face, avoiding the crack, to the ledge above. Move R to a crack system and finish up the thin seam.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1983

21
18 R Arknamton 3 Trad 12m

This climb is horrible. A very short, vegetation-filled off-width with loose rock and poor pro. If you decide to climb this, hit yourself really hard, and move on!

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From, 1978

22
14 R Arknamton 1 Trad 30m

Grotty climbing on loose flakes makes this yet another death lead classic! Up the hollow flakes, with surprisingly ok gear to the ledge. Ascend the corner behind to the top.

FA: Ross Allen, Sid Tanner, 1969

23
18 Arknamton 2 Trad 30m

Surprisingly good. Fun climbing up the corner, with excellent gear. The route has one weird move before it eases. Rap off here, or finish as for A1.

FA: Ross Allen, Sid Tanner, 1969

24
19 R Non Compos Mentis Trad 25m

A blight on the face of the world. 10 sticks of dynamite could only assist in making this climb slightly better. The wide, loose, dark line, full of loose blocks and worse!

FA: Joe Lynch, Jeff Morgan., 1981

25
23 ** Dangerously Sane Trad 22m

The orange arête between Non Compos Mentis and Self Expression. Start in NCM, nice moves up and diagonally R past a small triangular pedestal to gain a crack on the R wall, (alternatively, thrutch up the ugly offwidth). Hug the arête passing two BR's (crux) to another small pedestal (alien/TCU on R). Continue straight up the arête to finish R of the bulging rock on top. Chain on tree. 2 BR's, wires, SLCD's. A small alien or TCU in a thin slot makes the second half less dangerous/more sane. It fits a quadcam but not as well.

FA: Matt Hutton, Danny Rose

26
26 ** Self Expression Trad 20m

Truly insane climbing up a desperately thin seam. Wobble and shake and whimper your way up on good RPs, small wires and one crappy piton. Strenuous, technical and classy. This was an awesome and inspiring effort by Kim Carrigan.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

27
17 Canned Heat Trad 20m

The orange, shattered corner to the R of SE. Bush bash about 10m to the base of the route. Loose and often dirty, this route is quite demanding for the grade. Protection is ample; placing it is another thing.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1969

28

This brutal and sustained tendon destroyer features some of the sharpest and thinnest crimpers on the cliff. Step onto the L side of the large blank wall to the L of EF. Follow the line of bolts up the face to the top.

FA: Sebastian Schwertner, 1992

29
14 ** Electronic Flag Trad 40m

A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. An optional direct start up the desperate corner and crack goes at grade 19. This used to be 17, but the thrashing feet of 10 thousand struggling leaders have reduced this to a spit polished sandbag. One alternate start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17. The 14 variant starts 6m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section. Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down).

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1969

30
19 * Electronic Flag DS Trad 10m

Instead of climbing around it, go straight up the almost perfect crack in the almost perfect corner.

31
18 * Second Song Trad 30m

A traverse from 'Electronic Flag' over to 'Fluid Journey'.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1984

32
25 ** Paranoia Trad 25m

Brutal but amazing climbing up the searing corner R of EF. Up and L into the seam proper to a small stance. Blast up this to the ledge above. Completely unrelenting in the second half. Despite its appearances this route is well protected. Bring loads of small wires and cams.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

33
24 The Gentle Lion Trad 12m

A good second pitch to Paranoia. Climb the improbable and technical shallow seam directly above. There are some dodgy flakes on the face: beware! Join 'Wango Tango' (which comes in from the R), continue easily to the top.

FA: Dave Faernley, Kim Carrigan, 1982

34
24 *** Worrying Heights Trad 30m

Absolutely stunning climbing up one of the better lines on the entire cliff! This long and technical corner involves some of the most amazing bridging and lay backing there is. Finish up Piranha.

FA: Chris Peisker., 1979

35
24 * Ginger Bitch Trad 15m

A direct finish to QC, or a fun variant finish for Insomnia. Instead of stepping R and climbing up the finish of Insomnia, climb the arete directly above the finish of QC passing 2 bolts. Bowel-rupturing exposure, and nice technical movement makes this climb well worth the trip.

FA: Scott Camps, 1987

36
23 Quite Contrary Trad 40m

A link up. Start at the corner 1m R of WH. Up the closed corner and into Piranha. Up the R crack of Piranha until it blanks out. From here, step R into Insomnia and up. There are better routes to do.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd., 1982

37
20 *** Piranha Trad 45m

An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and chain on a tree.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1970

38
19 Wango Tango Trad 15m

A variant finish to Piranha. It features quite nice climbing, but the rock quality is questionable in places. Off the ledge, climb Piranha until it steps L, and keep going out L across the wall. Breathe a sigh of relief when you reach the crack, bumble up above with great moves and gear.

FA: Dave Moss, Paul Hoskins., 1982

39
23 *** Insomnia Trad 40m

One of the first 23s in Australia! Although previously downgraded, this route has lost non of its spice over the years. Up the brilliant V-groove with phenomenally classy bridging and face work, capped by a desperate mantle on to the ledge. From here, grunt up the classic off-width to an easy finish! Originally aided by Staszewski and Killop, they backed off realizing that a better climber might one day free this amazing line. All were stunned and inspired when it was freed by Henry Barber.

FA: Henry Barber, Rick White, 1975

40
21 ** Fluid Journey Trad 40m

Quite good. Up the initial corner to a hard move onto a ledge. From here, thin locking and classic bridging bring the top to hand.

FA: Ajax Green, John Smart, 1977

41

Climb Fluid Journey until possible to pull into Epic Journey at about half height. Combines the easiest sections of both routes.

42
23 *** Epic Journey Trad 30m

Brilliant, graceful and absorbing climbing up the twin cracks stating off the small ledge right of FJ. Some of the most elegant face climbing and layaway moves around. Step L into the single crack with joyous jamming and chimney moves above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1977

43
27 R ** Stand in Line Trad 28m

Wow! Start up the desperate corner R of EJ with crappy gear and a rusty piton playing head games with you as you stare it in the eye! If you fall in the first 15m, it is more than likely that you will deck out! Climb this to a stance. Up the desperately thin corner on imaginary holds, using scary and spacious protection to the top. Some good wires about half way up are the only real protection you get on the whole route. Quite a serious lead although it really does feature some excellent movement.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

44
25 * Green Plastic Comb Trad 20m

A very hard route to protect well on lead. Start on the cracked arete, up this for a few moves and then out onto the R face. Quiver up the face on thin holds with RPs and flared token cam placements guaranteeing your concentration! A hard move on the arete moves the route to the L face and an excellent #3 RP. From there, flail up the face to where the obvious diagonal crack line leads R to a ledge. This crack is actually quite easy but feels relatively hard due to the fact that most climbers are pumped completely senseless by then! Follow this to a ledge, then easily up. Rap as for SIL.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen., 1979

45
26 * Sadhana Mixed 10m, 1

If you arms are still capable of basic function, this should help to finish them off! The direct finish to GPC features classic climbing up a delicate arete. From where the crack goes R, head straight up the arete past a lone bolt. Run it out to the top.

FA: Scott Camps, Kishi Takamori, 1988

46
27 R * Handy Andy Mixed 20m, 2

Most people tend to onsight this route, due to the fact that a fall could be very nasty! Bridge up the completely blank corner, pretending that there are actually holds. Very desperate climbing past the two pitons. Not a climb for the faint hearted.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

47
27 R Flange Desire Trad 25m

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get.

FA: Kevin Lindorff., 1983

48

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

FA: Kim Carrigan., 1982

49
25 ** Barbed-wire Canoe Trad 27m

Absolutely brilliant climbing, although possibly one of the most sustained routes here. Brilliant bridging up the open-book corner to the flake at the top.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

50
26 * Chook Fear Trad 20m

Bridging, layaways and levitation are all required to get up this imposing, blank corner. At the top, step R to the tree. An Olympic rhythmic gymnast may be able to bridge across to WO; as for normal people, attempting this could destroy more than just your pants!

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

51
24 ** Wild One Trad 20m

A very strenuous outing and an excellent exponent of flared hand jamming. The start of this route is quite challenging. Step R into the climb after going up CF for a few moves. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the top. Stepping on your rope and gear back be a bit of a hassle. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route as described.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

52

Direct start to WO is very bouldery and goes up the diabolical tendon pulverising micro seam for a few meters before joining WO.

53
21 *** Cock Corner Trad 30m

This pump fest provides some of the best and most sustained crack climbing on the cliff. Blast up the unrelenting crack in the steep corner. Layaway a cruxy move at 2/3rd height, and then easily to the top.

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

54
21 ** I'm a Mop Mixed 8m, 1

Very nice! From the ledge at 2/3 height on CC, step R onto the arete. Super stylish moves and exposure past a bolt , and then into a small cracked corner at the top.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps., 1984

55
25 ** Stonkers and Steroids Mixed 30m, 4

The direct start to IAM. Stick clip the first bolt, and step out to the arete from thee start of 'Cock Corner'. Very thin and technical climbing up the arete past 4 bolts, finish up 'I'm a Mop'.

FA: John Pearson, 1988

56

Marked y the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born! Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White., 1974

57
16 ** Satans Smokestack Trad 40m

The horrific thrutch up the desperate start of this route is no fun at all. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars! Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows., 1968

58
19 *** Infinity Trad 40m

A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing.

FA: Ross Allen, Rick White., 1970

59
22 Infinity Variant Finish Mixed 10m, 1

From the start of the diagonal on Infinity, step L up the face past 1 bolt. A scary and atmospheric little route.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rick White, 1982

60
22 Equality Trad 40m

Hard and committing. Start up the same line as for Infinity. Continue up to a ledge past a grunty fist crack. Suck in the big ones, attach your kamikaze head band, and thrash (screaming for glory) up the blank bulge with greasy little holds making life really interesting. There is no mention of gear here, because there is not much to be found. Whimper with joy and relief when the crack finally opens up for better gear and easier moves to the top.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

61
22 *** Lonely Teardrops Trad 22m

Stunning quality, an absolute classic. Start on the ledge above and R of the start to Infinity. Steep jamming and locking leads to a pronounced crux rounding the bulge. Great gear, a little spaced at the crux, but completely bombproof. Finish easily up to the Infinity chains.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

62
24 * Quietly Superior Trad 20m

Originally named Crystal Blue Persuasion, Rob S. claims that the climb was stolen from under his nose... Buy him a beer for the full tragic tale! Regardless of that, the climbing is excellent, with the gear being very good, but a little fiddly to place in spots. Aliens and RPs help a lot. Brilliant bridging and chimney moves up the orange corner to the R of LTD.

FA: Marty Beare, 1980

64
19 Jigsaw Trad 35m

An absolutely brutal start up the narrow V-groove splitting the pillar to the L of WC. From here easily up to the level of WC ledge. Follow up a short hard corner, with the last moves at the top keeping things interesting.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1971

65
15 ? Unknown 14m

Start up W.C. until it is possible to step left into the chimney. Up this onto the pillar and straight up the hand crack to a trad placed belay below the 2nd pitch of W.C.

66

start marked 'WC'. A hundred ways to get up this twin cracked, 3 sided chimney! Great beginner lead, with lots of bomber gear placements and good stances. A better access pitch to 'Plume Ledge' than SAW.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1969

67

The way the route originally finished. Start on the L of Plume Ledge. A brutal grunt up the horribly tight body chimney directly above pitch 1. There is not a lot of gear but it doesn't matter as you are so stuck in this thing that it would be very hard to come out anyway! A must do for all aspiring guardians of Frog ethics!

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1969

68
20 R Quick Trad 13m

Don't fall on this extremely under protected route... gravity will definitely win! Up Harlot for a move or two, then up the arete. Really classy moves, and quite enjoyable climbing. It's a pity the piton used on the first ascent didn't stay in! Some pro can be found in the crack around on the L face, but it won't help much if you fall near the top.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Derek Sheldon, 1976

69
18 Harlot Trad 12m

A goo and technical boulder problem to a stance at 3m. It's best to jump off here but if you must, strap on some knee pads and thrash for glory up the wide crack above.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

70
18 Witches Covert Trad 12m

A good start up the 2 cracks R of Harlot up to a ledge. Negotiate the overhanging hand crack to the top chimney. The top is ugly, loose and unavoidable, but thankfully it is also very short.

FA: Rick White, 1970

71
19 * Humility Trad 15m

A classic one-move wonder, the face R of WC. Start off the ledge on the R, small wires providing excellent pro. Wobble up on thin and balancy moves until a jug on the L arete comes to hand. Easily up the line past a piton (hidden from view) to a tricky little mantle move at the ledge. Easily up to Plume ledge.

FA: Ross Allen, 1970

73

A hard lead for a beginner, above a big ledge. Lay back the corner to the ledge. Easily to the top. A number 5 cam is essential to keep this lead safe.

FA: Bob Gowan., 1969

74
15 Rest Area Ahead Trad 10m

A one move special, and a soft touch at the grade. Start at the obvious crack in the corner R of Humility. Up this with excellent protection to a ledge. Bumble easily to the top as for PA.

FA: Simon Uren, 1981

75

The easiest climb on the cliff. Wander up the line of least resistance to the right of RAA. Good gear makes this a great climb for beginners to start leading. It's also a good way to get to Plume Ledge quickly.

FA: Ron Collett (free solo)., 1969

76

Great climbing up the pillar bisected by an ever widening crack. The crux is near the top, coming out of a cave into a fist jam section. Easily up and L to Plume Ledge.

FA: Rick White, Rod Bolton., 1969

77
23 ** Nosy Business Trad 20m

Up the blunt arete to the R of CW. Delicate and strenuous moves past 2 bolts. Veer L here with much difficulty and moaning to put a runner in CW to keep things sane. Continue up past 2 more bolts to the top.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1983

78
18 *** Gladiator Trad 17m

An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1975

79
16 Christian Trad 17m

A gruntologist's dream. Clang your hexes for joy and release a tribal yelp before plunging head first into this disgusting knee and elbow destroying body chimney. You should really shoot yourself if you are seriously considering leading this route!

FA: Ross Allen, Ian Cameron, Rick White, 1975

91
22 *** Old Guard Trad 40m

Brilliant climbing up the dark corner to the R of Christian. Up easily for 7m to a stance. Release a blood-curdling howl and tear up the hard lay back line to the top line a frenzied madman! Technical jamming and layback sequences provide thoroughly absorbing and sustained movement all the way. Milk the rest at half height, as that's all you get. From the ledge at the top, one hard move onto the wall and you can step L onto Plume Ledge. Finish here, or get extra "old school points" by thrashing up the final wide groove above.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Marty Beare, 1978

92
20 Keed Spills Trad 15m

A better variant finish for OG. At the start of the last groove on OG, step R and climbing the thin crack up the face. Be careful as the first few moves are completely unprotected and you could be reduced to a whimpering mess with the technical and exposed moves above.

FA: Fred From, Mark Morwood, 1981

93
23 Perversion Trad 40m

Up the wall to the R of OG. Not done very often. Up the initial corner, which is quite technical and interesting. Rest at the ledge and then blast up the thin seam past 2 ancient pitons. Not the best route around.

FA: Marty Beare, 1983

94
19 Nymphets Crack Trad 32m

Crappy. Start at the body crack about 8m R of OG. Difficult moves up an even more difficult crack leads to a rest at a tree. Kepp plugging away, saving energy for the final onslaught in the last moves!

FA: Joe Lynch, 1981

95
20 ** Satyricon Trad 30m

This long-negkected corner offers brilliant bridging and jamming up a long sustained line! Bridge up the initial corners to the cave at 2/3rd height. A hard move around this to the top, and many celebration beers at the "Doogs". Rap chains on the pillar.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From, 1978

96
21 O Lucky Man Trad 12m

Put a high runner the start of Satyricon, then step R onto the arete and up. Pass 2 very lonely and dodgy looking pitons, then climb the wall above.

FA: Gordon Bieske, Alan (Sunshine) Wilkie, 1983

97
23 ** Unknown Bolt Fest Mixed 25m, 3

No one knows much about this route... although it may have a name that involves kinky acts by a pool. The arete left of CC is excellent, although quite dangerous if lead straight off the ledge. My assumption is that the original ascent went up Satyricon and stepped R at the jug and bolt! This makes for a brilliant climb. Continue up the arete past 3 more bolts and a small cam or nut placement.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Evan Bieske ('s), 1990

98
15 Chunder Crack Trad 30m

This route is very well named, and a contender for the greatest sandbag ever at the original grade of 15! If you must subject yourself to this torment, go up the top of the pillar R of OLM. Climb up the horrible off-width, which is also very strenuous and fiddly to protect.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

99
23 Bag the Nazi Trad 25m

The bolted arete starts up CC for about 5m, and then steps out. It is really good, however the bottom section features from brittle rock. Up past the fixed hangers, trending slightly R, to eventually finish at the chains of SA.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Evan Bieske ('s), 1990

100
21 * Juggernaut Trad 30m

Even whispering the name of this route has struck panic and fear into the heart of many aspiring leader. Up the ever widening off-width to the L of SA. Specially cut lengths of pipe were originally used to protect this visionary route. Big Bros and large cams (and plenty of them) should keep the Grim Reaper at bay nowadays! Jeans and a footy jersey would be a handy addition to the rack of any would be ascentionist.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1974

109
19 *** Thor Trad 30m

Very nice! Step in from the left, and boulder R to the jug. From here, climb the beautiful line and finger crack to a stance below a corner. This corner provides beatiful positions and stances, and finishes up an easier crack to the top.

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

110
20 *** Odin Trad 30m

A complete classic, this climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods. Up the initial orange crack system to a stance below the "magic block". A tricky move above this into a narrow groove. The hand and fist crack above keeps you puffing the whole way! Hard for the grade.

FA: Barry Overs, Rick White, 1971

111

Very photogenic climbing up the only line here that has anything close to a roof! Up the initial blank corner with loads of class to a rest at the "magic block". Fire up and hand traverse R into the void! A hand to fist-sized cam at the lip keeps things sane. Spicy moves above to the top.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

112

Small, short and horrifically desperate. If you're keen for a change of scene, however, and have recently made out your will, this could be the one for you. Go straight through the roof, without going into Odin. Levitation abilities may be handy.

113

A bit silly and contrived, I think the original is better. Once above the roof, step back and L and up the arete past a bolt and a piton, finishing up Odin.

114
22 ** Decade Trad 30m

This route was climbed on the 10th anniversary of the discovery of Frog. The gear is excellent but spacious; however, stopping to place it makes things a lot more exciting! Up the obvious line R of TGON featuring very technical face and crack climbing moves to the stance. Follow a thin seam as the difficulties gradually ease to the top.

FA: Greg Child, Rick White., 1978

115
21 R ** Androcles Trad 10m

The dark, smooth corner to the L of If is a direct start. Up this on very thin gear with no real worthwhile pro. Continue as for If. A serious proposition for those just leading at the grade.

FA: Kevin Pearl., 1979

116
17 * If Trad 30m

Confused climbing but worth a visit. Blast up the initial cracked arete on shaky RP's (or just solo it) to a stance in a cave and a very old piton. Step L into the corner system and up this line with good gear and one more equally crappy piton. The climbing eases off towards the top.

FA: Ross Allen, Rick White, 1978

117

Up If to the first piton. From here, go up the orange corner to the roof, pulling round this and onto a stance on a huge jug. Place a high runner in If, say goodbye to your family, and move R and up the face on thin and "delicate" holds.

FA: Paul Hoskins., 1983

118
20 *** Short Order Trad 30m

An absolute classic test piece, locking and jamming problem. A hard start gains a stance at 2m. From here, climb the unrelenting corner with excellent gear, stances and locks. Keep plugging and moving like a punch-drunk boxer, as the lactic acid build-up ever so surely creeps up on you. There are just enough stances and holds to keep you from being reduced to a whimpering mess. A rap chain can be found in the tree about 6m above the first ledge as you top out.

FA: Henry Barber, John Fantini, 1975

119

A R to L girdle, but fun for a change of scenery and direction! Up SO for 5m, then step L to the 1st piton of If. Edge across Decade, and bridge with much trepidation into Odin level with the large jug and flake. Across and up into Thor, as far as the overhang, then traverse onto the Warlock Ledge and off.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

120
19 Shocking Blue Trad 25m

Not pleasant. Up the initial fist crack to a horror blank corner above the fig.

FA: Fred From, 1978

121
Saffron Sun Unknown

FA: Scott Camps

122
23 * Battered Son Trad 20m

Classy arete and face climbing L of Saffron Crack. Really good climbing, unfortunately there is a very hard clip at the bolt! 3 bolts lead the way to the top.

FA: Scott Camps ('s), 1980

123
18 Saffron Crack Trad 40m

The start of this climb features a R-leaning Off-width problem that is both well protected and a great test of your crack-climbing abilities. Step into the corner and chimney of EB. Up with ease and good movement to the top.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett., 1970

124
16 Electric Banana Trad 40m

Not a mind-blowing affair but worth a lap! Start up the ordinary groove and face, then finish up the easy chimney.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows., 1969

125
17 *** Smoked Banana Trad 40m

Classic Frog climbing. Up the initial twin cracks with some difficulty to a ledge. Step L and up the single crack to a stance under a daunting roof. Sling the chock stone on the R in the wide crack, swallow hard and swing out and up the ladder of chock stones with bowel-quivering exposure! Rest your nerves in the body crack for a moment, travel into the depths of the crack, then squeeze up for a move or two until it is possible to step out onto the arete and face. Easily to the top.

FA: Rick White, Greg Sheard, 1968

126
22 * Understanding Trad 40m

The variant finish to SB is a very classy little outing. Climb up SB to the overhang. Take a large breath, step L up and around the overhang to a bolt. Follow the line to the arete and up a thin crack to the top.

FA: Stuart Camps, Russell Chudleigh., 1985

127

Total crap. A crappy little line that is usually done as a variant start to SB. Not worth the trip. FA Unknown (probably due to shame)

FA: Unknown, 2000

128
18 R Vegetation Row Trad 37m

Not the best. After about 20m of vine-filled loose dirt and crap, you will find about 15m of actual climbing. You could have more fun by staying at the bottom of the cliff and shoving sticks under your fingernails!

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

129
24 Cheshire Cat Trad 20m

FA: 2008

130
25 ** Voices in the Sky Trad 32m

Fantastic climbing and superb positions can be found the whole way up this thin and daunting line. Despite appearances, brilliant protection in the form of small wires and micro cams can be found the whole way.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff (yoyo), 1979

131

Classic crack climbing. Start at the finger crack as it continues to widen the whole way up the route. Don't be fooled by the wide nature of the top, although big gear is essential to protect this route (#4 and #4.5 BD cams won't go astray), you are able to bridge past almost all of the wide thrashing!

FA: Rick White, Ross Allen (yoyo)., 1969

132
22 Squeaky Leather Trad 38m

A good variant to MMT. Start up MMT, and step R at an old piton onto the arete at 10m. Directly up the arete past more bolts to the top.

FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, Mick Peck., 1988

133

Brilliant! Start up the off-width to a ledge at 4m. Alternatively, you can start up HG and then step L at this ledge. From there up the awesome finger crack with excellent face holds and locks to a thin crux at 2/4 height. From there, up the hand and fist crack to a ledge. Either rap off the small tree, or go up the broken corner at the back and rap off the MMT chains (single 60m rope on stretch).

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

134
20 R * Holy Grail Trad 25m

This climb has some really nice moves on it. Unfortunately, it also has a huge loose boot-shaped rock at 1/2 height. The loose rock and poor pro continues above this. Flop onto the same ledge as for TGBBGPM. Although it looks like a classic, there are far better options on either side!

FA: Matt Taylor, 1975

135

Instead of flopping onto the ledge with quiet relief, continue up the depressingly blank corner for another 15m to the top. Very small gear and one very old piton pretend to offer adequate protection.

FA: Joe Lynch, Murray Ball, Rob Staszewski., 1983

136

Absolutely classic, although your calves will hate you for your effort! So named because Barber somehow managed to miss this fine line on his "tick every classic in sight" tour of 75. Blast up the long corner with superb gear, crack and bridging moves throughout the entire climb. Top out on Conquistador ledge. Rap chains await, however you will need two ropes to get to the bottom.

FA: Nic Taylor., 1976

137
22 * Bitter and Twisted Trad 45m

A nice variant finish to TOTGA, but it simply isn't as good as the others. Climb about half way up TOTGA, then step R (following a seam) to a bolt on the wall. Continue out R and up the arete passing another bolt. Easily to the top.

FA: Darren Holloway, 1988

138
21 *** Conquistador Trad 45m

The second grade 21 in 'Australia'.

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

139
20 *** Devils Dihedral Trad 45m

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

140
23 *** Deliverance Trad 45m

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

141
26 ** Petulance Trad 45m

start up deliverence then break R when you spy a BR, then up blunt arete in a great position.

FA: Chris Frost

142
25 R ** Tantrum Trad 45m

Overgrown and overshadowed by its company it received little attention for years. A recent cleaning and addition of a piton down low (it was originally led with a pre-placed RP) has made it a more attractive proposition. Bridge up tree to get piton and an RP. Thin bouldery moves lead to very enjoyable and friendly climbing above.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Aleen, 1979

143
23 Brain Death Trad 10m

FA: Joe Lynch, 1981

144
18 Hells Angel Trad 40m

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1971

145
18 * Angel Rider Trad 40m

FA: Philip Waters, Scott Camps, Steve Mansfield., 1984

146
20 R * Easy Rider Trad 40m

FA: Trevor Gynther, 1979

149
17 Macraderma Trad 30m

Becareful you don't fall into this subterrainean adventure from Uranus. Complete with toilet paper!

FA: Paul Caffyn, Ian Cameron, Rick White, 1969

150
18 Hello Sailor Trad 20m

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

151

FA: Simon Vallings, Andy Barker, RUssel Chudleigh, 1984

152
24 ** The Last Ungreat Trad 15m

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1984

153
24 ** Gone and Forgotten Trad 20m

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

154
22 ** Suicide City Trad 20m

FA: Rick McGregor. Re-established by Rob Staszewski., 1976

155
17 R Genghis Khan Trad 20m

FA: Paul Caffyn, Sid Tanner, 1969

156
23 * Go-between Trad 18m

FA: Kim Carrigan, Fred From, 1979

157

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976

158
22 ** Out on a Limb Trad 18m

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rick White., 1977

159
21 * Run With the Pack Trad 20m

FA: Rick White, Ian Thomas, 1976

160
15 * Bad Company Trad 20m

FA: Nic Taylor, John Hattink, 1977

163

FA: Mike Woodrow, Darren Holloway, Mark Holloway., 1985

164
17 ** Micron Trad 20m

FA: Unknown, 2000

165
18 ** Elastic RURP Trad 20m

Up twin cracks to stance in scoop. Over this with some nice climbing to stance on big flakes. Motor up the exposed crack to Top and Tree Belay chain.

FA: Rick White, Barry Overs, 1971

166
23 * Separator Trad 20m

FA: Rob Staszewski, Joe Lynch, 1981

167

FA: Kim Carrigan, Dave Fearnley, 1982

168
20 ** Catharsis Trad 20m

The nice handcrack leading to a ledge and offwidth to the right of Elastic Rurp. Big gear essential if you don't want to run it out above the ledge and manky old pin. The 'elegant solution' to the offwidth mentioned in Andy Martin's description probably involves some kind of prancing about on edges like a sport climber. This sort of thing can be avoided with good old fashioned thrutching and struggling.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Thomas, 1973

169

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1978

170

FA: Pete Schmidt, Jannette Hull, 2003

171

FA: Kevin Pearl, 1979

172

Good second pitch to 'Footloose and Falling Free'.

FA: Richard Henderson, Scott Camps., 1986

173
18 Bay Play Trad 10m

FA: Unknown (solo), 2000

174
18 Fast Eddie Trad 15m

FA: Rick White, Dave Moss, 1980

175

FA: Dave Moss, Rick White, 1980

176
11 R Rhyolite Fruit Trad 13m

FA: Barry Overs, Steve Bell, 1969

177
23 R That's Rat! Trad 15m

FA: Stuart Camps, Paul Grey, 1983

180

FA: Dave Moss, Paul Hoskins, 1983

181
17 R Image of the Nat Trad 8m

FA: Scott Camps, Garry Glover., 1983

182
19 Color Me Dead Trad 9m

FA: Richard Henderson, Scott Camps., 1986

183
21 R Popping Pillars Trad 7m

FA: Robbie Allen (TR then free solo), 1983

Ten (10) routes are scattered along the sloping hill side between 'Rhyolite Fruit' and the 'Oppenheimer's Monster Pillar'.

You can get to this area by scrambling up the ramp to the right of 'Rhyolite Fruit', and then along an indistinct path. The first four (4) routes are located about 30m to the right. Even further to the right about 50m or so you will locate Mr Bojangles Pillar.

184

FA: Paul Hoskins., 1981

185

FA: John Middendorf, 1981

186
18 Oscar Trad 8m

FA: Rick White, Lois Basham, Dave Moss, 1981

187
16 Frog Fart Trad 9m

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps., 1983

188
15 * Frog Art Trad 10m

FA: Scott Camps, Stuart Camps, 1983

189
20 Gully Bumble Trad 8m

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps., 1983

190
15 * Mr Bojangles Trad 15m

FA: Ted Cais & Ian Cameron; Ted Cais, Ian Cameron

191
14 Mr Bojangles VF Trad 7m

Climb Mr Bojangles, at half height step left and finish up the hand crack.

192
19 R Bits and Pieces Trad 15m

FA: Stuart Camps., 1983

193
15 Uriah Heep Trad 12m

FA: Steve Bell, 1972

194
16 Mango Trad 8m

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

Next is a distinct pillar feature known as the 'Ockerphillia Pillar' which has a detached rock pillar on the downhill side with a large cave like cut away section. There is a thin tree growing in between the main pillar and detached pillars.

195
9 Short and Sweet Trad 10m

A good climb for trad newbies.

FA: Ross Allen, Ben Whitehouse, 1969

196
7 R Excreta Trad 15m

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows (free solo), 1968

197
23 X ** Ockerphilia Trad 23m

FA: John Howard, Dave Fearnley, 1982

198
23 * Chemical Adrenalin Trad 24m

FA: Andrew Smith, 2000

199
8 R Ex Trad 18m

FA: Rick White (free solo), 1968

The next routes are located as you continue the cliff face around to the right past 'Ockerphillia Pillar'. This is the magnificent, orange and white pillar that you see as you walk around past 'Okerphilla Pillar'. There is some classic crack climbing to be offered in this area of the Frog Buttress.

200
16 Eating Gorillas Trad 22m

FA: Stuart Camps (free solo), 1983

201

FA: Scott Camps, 1983

202
15 Jockette Trad 22m

FA: Rick White, Ross Allen., 1970

203
16 Rack Attack Trad 12m

FA: Stuart Camps, Gordon Bieske., 1983

204
21 Green Noises Trad 18m

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

205

FA: Stuart Camps, Gordon Bieske, 1983

206

FA: Nyrie Dodd, Michael Collie, 1983

207
15 ** Devils Wart Trad 27m

FA: Ross Allen, Ian Cameron, 1970

208
17 Cold Turkey Trad 27m

FA: Ross Allen, Rob Staszewski, 1970

209

Short wall R of Devil's Wart

FA: Darrin Carter

210
15 Bad Blues Trad 22m

FA: Steve Bell, Barry Overs, Rick White, 1970

211
15 Illusion Trad 23m

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1970

213
18 *** Iron Mandible Trad 24m

An excellent outing involving some face climbing followed by crack from hands to bigger than fists. Finishes on ledge above with rap chain.

FA: Rick White, 1972

214
17 * Neon Philharmonic Trad 42m

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron., 1969

215

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl., 1979

216
21 * The Anti-From Trad 17m

FA: Evan Bieske, 1983

217
24 R * The Anti-From Direct Trad 25m

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

218

FA: Scott Camps, Richard Henderson, 1986

219
19 * Drop Out Trad 24m

FA: Trevor Gynther, Steve Bell, 1983

220

FA: Bill Noris, 1980

221

FA: Paul Hoskins, Robbie Allen, 1983

222
18 Kookamunga Trad 5m

FA: Paul Hoskins, Robbie Allen., 1983

223
18 R Ethicmans Dilemma Trad 22m

FA: Ross Allen, Rick White, 1970

224
24 * Licensed to Kill Trad 22m

FA: John Pearson, Gordon Bieske, 1986

225
15 Pibrock Trad 20m

FA: Mac Thompson, Glen Burns, 1969

226
8 Satisfaction Trad 30m

FA: Ron Collett, Mike Mahoney, 1969

227

FA: Ron Collett, Mike Mahoney, 1969

228

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1974

229
19 R Bite Free Trad 9m

FA: Richard Henderson, Scott Camps, 1986

230
7 Leprechaun Trad 20m

As per guide for start. After 1st tree option R overgrown option L loose

FA: Mike Mahoney, Mac Thompson, 1969

231

FA: Bill (the man of mank) Noris, 1980

232
21 Variant Finish Trad 8m

Another wacko job courtesy of Mr Henderson.

FA: Richard Henderson., 1986

233
5 Root Unknown 3m

FA: unknown