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Table of contents

1. Frog Buttress 393 routes in Crag

Summary:
JFMAMJJASOND
seasonality
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.620137, -27.984007

Unique Features And Strengths:

Crack climbing par excellence. While the cracks aren't pure splitters, they are very, very excellent!

Description:

First aid

Should an accident occur, you will note a sign at the base of the descent gully stating "Left" and "Right" sides. This is in the event that you have to ring the SES or other emergency services, and need to indicate the correct side of the crag for the emergency services to attend. As you are walking down, the side to your right is the "Right" side, and the left is the "Left". Mobile phone reception at the cliff is good, but reception in the campground and car park is dodgy to say the least.

In an emergency call: 000 and ask for the relevant emergency service (112 for mobiles). Alternatively, the Boonah Hospital is open 24 hours, and can be found on Leonard St (just off the main street). The phone number is: (07) 5463 3300.

Rock and Rack

The rhyolite at Frog makes for excellent vertical, parallel-sided crack systems. The rock is usually bombproof, although the occasional small flake does tend to peel off. As such, between 1 - 2 racks of cams would be handy. Crack size varies as much as can be imagined. However, a standard rack of cams from fingers up to fist size will cover most routes.

Most of the routes below grade 26 have been led before cams, the protection found from hexes and nuts is nothing short of excellent. (You also get beard stroking points for climbing on hexes only). Bolts can be found on the unprotected faces and arêtes, and some are the older style carrot bolts. As such 3 - 5 bolt brackets will definitely come in handy. Dodgy pitons from eons ago can also be found, clip at your own risk! 4 to 5 screw gates, 8 - 16 draws and a helmet (lots of loose stuff at the top) will complete your rack. A 60m rope comes in handy, but is not a necessity. Two ropes are required to get off the longer routes.

Weather and comfort

The best time to climb at Frog is between April and September. Perfect winter climbing can be enjoyed with long mild days, cool nights and perfect friction. Climbing during summer is possible for the sadomasochistic. However, it is usually restricted to a 5am start, finishing at around 10-11am. Mozzies and rain are also far more prevalent during summer.

Credit for crag description above and most route descriptions: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Access Issues:

Access to Frog was recently restricted due to a phytophthora outbreak.

The rangers have installed a boot scrub station. Please use these and help prevent the spread.of the disease.

For more information, see here: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

Approach:

Mt French can be found 100km South West of Brisbane, situated on the outskirts of the small country town of Boonah.

From Brisbane

The quickest way is to go towards Ipswich on the Ipswich motorway. Just before Ipswich there are two left exits. UPDATE: Don't take either exit. Instead continue straight ahead following signs for Warwick and the Cunningham Hwy. Drive along this for 13km to take the "Boonah" exit. Take this turn and follow the signs.

From the Gold Coast

The quickest way is to go through the townships of Nerang, Canungra, and then Beaudesert.

From the West

The quickest way is to turn East at Warwick onto the Cunningham Highway. Turn off right about 5km past Aratula at a prominent Intersection towards Boonah.

After arriving in Boonah, proceed South through the main street past the famous Flavours Café, until you arrive at the equally famous Dugandan Hotel. Turn right here, and follow the signs to Mount French National Park.

From the carpark

From the car park, walk towards the toilets. Take the path that branches left (marked North Lookout) and follow this for about 100m. Take the obvious dirt track that branches off left, and follow the steep track down to the cliff. The obvious chimney on the left is climb no. 158 Clockwork Orange Corner kk 13.

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Where To Stay:

The campsites can be found about 150m East of the car park. Go past the toilet block for about 15m, and the path to the campsite will be found to your left. This area has a very limited number of sites available, and it is therefore essential to pre-book if you want to be assured of a campsite. Permits are not valid until full payment has been made, so it is advisable to pay in advance. Bookings can be made by visiting the Qld Parks web site: http://www.nprsr.qld.gov.au/parks/moogerah-peaks/

UPDATE: There are no options for payment at the campground. Fees are $5.60 per person per night, with family discounts available.

Camp fires are strictly prohibited outside of the camping area, and fires may only be lit within the designated fire places that are provided. Firewood collection within the National Park is also strictly prohibited. The use of generators within the campsite is not encouraged. Toilets and running water are located in the toilet blocks adjacent to the campsite.

Alternative (far more expensive) accommodation can be found in Boonah at the hotels, or in the caravan park.

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Ethic:

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

History:

In the beginning...

According to the Joe Lynch Guide Book, the history of Frog was as follows:

> Then God commanded, "Let there be Frog Buttress, to separate pro-weighters from climbers". When the Lord created Frog, there were no climbers. Then the Lord God said, "It is not good for rock to live alone. I will make a suitable companion to help him". While the rock lay asleep, God took a piece of rhyolite. He formed a climber from this piece and brought it unto the cliff. "Here at last is one of a rare quantity - rock from my cliff". That is why a man leaves his father and mother and is united with the rock, and they become one. The climber and the rock were naked, but they were not embarrassed. So be it.

> — The Gospel according to Dave Moss

Most historians, however, would agree that on 9 November 1968, Rick White and Chris Meadows decided to go and check out the cliff that looked like "no more than an insignificant scar on the North-Western flanks of the unassuming but picturesque Mt French". (Camps)

What they discovered, however, was the premier climbing location in South-East Queensland and some would argue, in all of Queensland. On that day, White and Meadows put up the Corner of Eden. They named the cliff "Paradise Lost", although the nickname of Frog (from Mt. French) stuck over time. This route was but a small indicator of the potential that the cliff had to offer, and this was made further apparent by the face that, by 1970, a further 50+ routes had been added, and 2 mini-guide books had already been published

The 1970's

The 70's saw a massive influx of climbing talent, and a commensurate jump in both the number and the difficulty of the routes that Frog had to offer. In the early 70's, major routes such as the mighty Odin, Conquistador, Venom and Juggernaut had all appeared, and, even by 1971, the guide by Rick White and Ron Collett had over 100 routes listed!

Over the next 5 years, climbers such as Ted Cais, Rick White and Henry Barber all had enormous impact upon the cliff, with the establishment of routes such as Black Light, Child in Time, Insomnia (the first 23 in Australia), Devil's Dihedral, Deliverance etc. Barber in particular almost single handedly raised the standard of climbing a Frog (and indeed in Australia) with his whirlwind tour of the country. Henry climbed 25 first ascents in 3 days all in impeccable style, including soloing Magical Mystery Tour in the boots that he had walked off the plane in, as a way to get back up to the top camp after a hard day climbing! It took years for the locals to catch up.

By the end of 1978, routes such as Wild One, Paranoia, Old Guard and Impulse were all freed, and the prime movers behind these achievements were that mighty climbing duo of Greg Child and Kim Carrigan. Decade was also climbed on the tenth anniversary of the discovery of Frog Buttress.

1979 was clearly the year of the hard man, with a veritable plethora of quality hard routes going up during that time. Tobin Sorenson and Jon Allen popped over to free the classic routes of Tantrum, Barbed Wire Canoe and Green Plastic Comb. They also made a fine addition to the cliff during that trip in the form of The Guns of Navaronne. Rob Staszewski put up a pile of routes. However the standouts were Lonely Teardrops, No Return and the crack test piece of Carrion Comfort. Kim Carrigan was also back at it, repeating all of Sorenson and Allen's routes, as well as establishing the classic thin face crack of Voices in the Sky. At the end of 1979, the fourth guide to Frog, containing of 200, routes was published by Rick White.

The 1980's

1980 was the year of the controversy. It started with Rob Staszewski patiently cleaning the corner of the aid line Crystal Blue Persuasion in preparation for an attempt at a free ascent, only to have Marty Beare steal it out from under his nose, and re-name it Quietly Superior. Rob is still very touchy about that one!

In 1982 Kim Carrigan came back from Europe, bringing with him a change in ethics at Frog. He used the first piton to be placed in a free climb for many years on his first ascent of the run out and sustained Stand in Line. Things snowballed more when Joe Lynch placed the first bolt at Frog on his route Yodel up the Valley. Rick White was so disgusted by this that he immediately arranged for Carrigan to do the route, and eliminate the bolt. The bolt, however, was not chopped!

1982 saw Chris Shephard claim the excellent line of Life at the Top, as well as freeing the super classic Gone and Forgotten, which had, until then, remained an aid line! There was much controversy when Kim Carrigan came back to the cliff, with his mission being to free the super hard Brown Corduroy Trousers. He succeeded on the third day, however, the controversy centred around the fact that a hold had mysteriously appeared up on the right in the middle of the crux section, and the fact that the hold had certainly not been there the previous year when Warwick Baird was sieging it! The New Zealanders completed their domination of 1982 by putting up the super bold face and arête route of Ockerphillia as a statement against bolting.

1983 saw an increase in bolting, which itself was seen by some as the next logical progression in allowing the crag to reach its full potential. Stuart Camps put up the magnificent arête of Oppenheimer's Monster, Paul Hoskins established the brilliant Plate Tectonics and Mark Moorhead bagged the often attempted arêtes of Hard Nose and Nosey Business. It wasn't all bolting though, with Kevin Lindorff producing one of the most bold and difficult routes on the Trousers Wall; Flange Desire. 1983 also saw Joe lynch put out his thoroughly entertaining sixth guide to Frog Buttress, containing over 300 routes.

1984 was a hectic year in the life of Frog. However, the key event was the first death at the cliff: Jeff lamb. His death had a profound and sobering effect on the climbing community. The same year, however, Kim Carrigan managed to free the immensely challenging The Lord's Prayer, which had understandably remained as an aid route. In the same trip, he also managed to add Self Expression and The Anti-From Direct to the cliff, both of these routes being very bold and technical.

There was a distinct lull in the pace of new routes over the following years. However, in April of 1987 Steve Mayers managed to free the stunning, hard face of Time for Tea!

Over the next few years there was still a smattering of development. The main focus was in the repeating of routes. The big achievement of 1988 was the development of the hardest line at the cliff, Whistling Kite, by Englishman Paul Smith. There was a lot of controversy over the tactics and bolting of the ascent, but it is still the hardest route on the cliff today. Mike Law managed to put up the excellent fridge-hugging arête of Debrilla.

The 2nd ascent of Brown Corduroy Trousers by visiting Japanese hot shot Kishio Takamori also occurred that year. Scott Camps published the seventh guide to Frog Buttress, featuring just over 400 routes, (some that are total rubbish traverses have not been included in this guide). There was also considerable controversy around the alleged plagiarising of large portions of the previous guide, although in his defence, there are only so many ways that you can describe a crack, and I think it is not in Scotts' character to have done this!

The 1990's

The next major action at the cliff occurred in 1992, with visiting super climber Sebastian Schwertner putting up the 2nd and 3rd hardest climbs at the cliff; the much considered line of Pokamoko and the Valley Girls, as well as How Are Your Calluses Today. John Pearson also chipped in with his excellent arête, Inhibition, during this period.

Only a very small amount of new routing activity has occurred over the last 10 years. Matt Hutton lead the charge with his excellent additions to the cliff of Dangerously Sane in 1997, The Elven King in 2001, as well as Hallowed Ground and Boris and Natasha Direct in 2003. Matt has since moved back to NSW.

Whilst there is still the occasional new route, even as recently as 2006, it would be fair to say that the scope for additions to the cliff would be limited to the very highest of grade brackets, or to totally contrived mank. This is not to say, however, that the cliff is in any way climbed out, because every time a hold falls off, it's like a brand new climb!

Frog is more popular now than ever before, and, as we wait with baited breath to watch what the genetically enhanced climbing freaks of tomorrow produce, we must also remember to staunchly pay homage to the efforts and ethics of the founding forefathers of our magnificent cliff. It is our solemn duty to make sure that our cliff remains as undamaged, unmolested and as ethically strong as possible. We should aspire to display the same respect and love for the cliff as was displayed 30 years ago, so that the next generation can enjoy the magnificent moments that Frog has to offer equally as much as we have.

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

1.1. East of the access track 160 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.622278, -27.982541

Description:

Routes East (to the right walking down) of the scree slope track that heads down from the car park.

All the climbs are listed from the far left side to the right side as you face the cliff.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 ** Parasite Drag

Hard to stay out of Noose! Thin climbing up the arete. Up a short crack to the ledge, the piton fell out years ago, luckily small wires provide adequate pro. Tricky moves lead to the fixed hanger. Finish direct up a small corner.

FA: Joe Lynch, Dave Demnar, Margret Smith, 1982

22Trad 22m
2 Noose

The main crack splitting the pillar with a right trending diagonal. The difficulties lie in the first diagonal section, and getting established in the crack. The body crack can be avoided by climbing the face to the left.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

18Trad 22m
3 Hanging Tree

Not the best climb at Frog! Climb the second crack right of Noose to a small ledge. From there go straight up with a desperate mantle to finish. Belay at the small tree.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

15Trad 20m
4 * Erectile Kingpin

Go up the twin edged corner to a stance on the large ledge. From there, strenuous jamming up the left facing corner to another ledge. Then easily to the rap chain.

FA: Rick White, John Hattink - (Dave Gilleson -), 1972

17Trad 16m
5 *** Plate Tectonics

Brilliant! A sustained and somewhat committing climb which features thing holds and excellent protection. Step R off the ledge from EK to the first carrot. Continue up past a second bolt, and then a long way to a piton under the right side of a tiny rooflet (can be backed up with a green "Alien"). From there, step left and up the obvious crack to finish.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Andrew Barry, 1983

24Trad 18m
6 De Facto

Barely independent of MP. A strenuous start up the thin seam just right of PT leads to a good stance. Up this through gently overhanging terrain on very poor pro. Finish up the widening crack. Not recommended.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From (avoided crux -) - Kim Carrigan added direct., 1978

23Trad 18m
7 ** Materialistic Prostitution

A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. A test piece at the grade.

FA: Ross Allan, Rick White, 1970

16Trad 20m
8 * Electric Lead

Brilliant climbing, one of the best 14s that Frog has to offer. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the tree; stars apply if you finish here. If you must, continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

FA: Steve Bell & Ian Cameron

14 RTrad 26m
9 ** Wizards Back

A stunning and thoroughly recommended finish to the two preceeding routes. Step warily off the ledge onto the right wall with a crescent moon shaped crack (watch the factor 2 fall off the ledge). Proceed up with much joy, and even more exposure!

FA: Kevin Pearl, Bob Ferguson, 1977

17Trad 10m
10 Yeah, Yeah, Yeah!

A lot scarier now that the 1st piton has fallen out. Start up EL, but step R out of the cave, and up to a stance at a bolt. Go up to the eerie piton hole (gear possible), and continue up the arete to the second piton. Finish directly up the nose.

FA: Andrew Barry, Robbie Allen, Gordon Bieske, 1983

22Trad 28m
11 Iron Butterfly

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with Great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m.. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route..

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett

15Trad 28m
12 First Layback

Start up SAW, step left and up onto a ledge. From here either scramble off R, or finish up the easy corner of IB. Not very good.

FA: Mac Thompson & Ron Collett

13Trad 12m
13 Sunday Afternoon Walk

Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!

FA: Alan Millband & Ron Collett; Alan Millband, Ron Collett

10Trad 12m
14 The Big O

Complete crap with a large ledge below very poor pro. If the kamikaze in you must do this, go up the ledges left of WA, and do a layback sequence up the friable flakes to the ledge.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Brian MacArthur, 1981

17 RTrad 12m
15 * Winston Alley

A great little climb and a good introduction to sustained bridging. The obvious corner left of Tardis. A hard 1st move gets you to a stance. From there, keep going with constant surprises to the top. Excellent gear throughout.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Ian Thomas, 1977

16Trad 10m
16 Vis-à-Vis

Contrived to say the least. Climb the arete to the right of WA past a bolt runner, without stepping into either of the surrounding climbs. There are far better routes to be climbed!

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

23Trad 10m
17 Tardis

Solid for the grade. Up the steep little corner, then take the left of the 2 grooves from the stance at 1/2 height. Excellent protection helps soothe the nerves.

FA: Steve Bell & Barry Overs

13Trad 10m
18 Dunston

Horrible. Looks a lot better than it is. The wide flake and crack to the left of Century.

FA: Unknown's, 1970

16Trad 12m
19 Century

A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1970

16Trad 15m
20 * A Hundred and One

A bold lead. Thin, strenous and poorly protected moves feature throughout this route up the face just right of Century. From the tree step R, pray, and continue upwards on very thin moves. Falling on the gear available is not recommended.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Brian MacArthur, 1981

17 RTrad 12m

Rickety Kate Pillar

The following four (4) climbs are located on the detached pillar directly above Winston Alley.

This pillar can be accesses by climbing any of the routes from "First Layback" to "Tardis".

21 *** Rickety Kate

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

FA: John Hattink, Rick White - Ray Lassman, Mike Meadows (FTRA: Dec), 1973

20Trad 15m
22 Kronk

Yet another case of putting a route up just to get your name in the guide! The climb steps left at the ledge after RK corner, and has one hardish move to the chain on the tree. Good for a change of scene.

FA: Stuart Camps, Evan Bieske, 1983

18Trad 6m
23 Cocont Ice

Barely seperate climbing R of RK. On clipping the bolt, step down and R, then up on this flakes and holds to the top. Place pro in RK to keep it sane.

FA: John Pearson, Scott Camps, 1986

23Trad 15m
24 ** Bloody Mary

Often neglected. Very good climbing up a steeper than expected line. 2 possible starts are featured. Coming in from the left up past the hollow flakes and the rooflet is not recommended. The better alternative is to step in from the R on good holds. From here, up an Arapiles style crack system, unfortunately marred by loose and hollow flakes in one small section. Worth doing.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Peter Fisk (Joe Lynch Jan- Direct Start), 1983

22Trad 16m

Below Rickety Kate Pillar

The next routes start from below Rickety Kate Pillar, on the ground level and to the right.

25 * Horse-drawn Zeppelin

Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top.

FA: Barry Overs & Steve Bell

16Trad 12m
26 Side-pocket Shot

The crack 1m R of HDZ. Grunt up this on good gear to a stance and ledge at half height. Continue up the right face (completely unprotected), or alternatively finish up the easy corner system on top of HDZ. Star only applies for the "non-death variant".

FA: Joe Lynch, Margeret Smith, 1982

17Trad 15m
27 Electric Mud

A great beginner's lead. Up the easy corner with mountains of great gear to be found. Pause for a moment to ponder the tricky exit move, flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

FA: Ian Cameron &Chris Knudsen; Ian Cameron, Chris Knudson

13Trad 10m
28 * Gum Nut

Climb straight up the arete immediately R of EM. One bolt shows the way. Protection can be found by stepping L and putting gear in EM (desperate). Delicate and fun climbing.

FA: Brian Courtney, 1983

23Trad 11m
29 ** The Acorn Tree

A great second pitch to GN. Starts about 10m R of the Rickety Kate pillar. Desperate moves off the ledge gain the first of 2 bolts. Delicate and technically challenging moves to the top, spacious protection!

FA: Scott Camps, Philip Waters, 1986

22Trad 12m
30 Moll

Absolutely disgusting climbing up the chimney to the R of GN. Many loose boulders, crap moves and thick vegetation all make this an absolute joy on some weird and sick planet.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1969

14Trad 25m
31 No Name

A crappy little wall with holds that occasionally stay attached! The short orange wall about 10m right of Moll has one bolt. Once above this, go up and right on good holds.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Malcolm Matheson, 1983

22Trad 12m
32 The Bed-sitting Room

More dodgy moves up loose and dirty rock. The lichen and choss filled corner to the right of NN.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

16Trad 10m
33 Shit Heap

Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing.

FA: Ian Cameron & Rick White; Ian Cameron, Rick White

14Trad 10m
34 * Parallel Universe

Start up TSLD until the rest under the hanging arete. Plug in a nest of gear, whimper a little, then veer up and left running it out a long, long way until the horizontal break. Cry with relief, put in some 'thank god' gear, and continue easily to the top. Rap as for TSLD. Very run out.

FA: Ross Ferguson Gareth Llewellin

22Trad 18m
35 *** The Stars Look Down

Classic face climbing. The thin seam takes you to a good stance at half height. Up the strenuous corner and airily onto the face. Continue shakily on (mostly) good holds. Easily to the top. Rap chain on the ledge.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From, 1978

21Trad 18m
36 Mechanical Prune

Quite good. Varied techniques are required to ascend this fine corner. Up the groove past a tree, then to an awkward constriction. Thrutch up this like a madman, or step onto the R face and skip the difficulties.

FA: Rick White & Chris Meadows

15Trad 18m
37 Dynamite

Not a beginner lead! Start at MP and veer right up the shallow seam. There are good placements to be found, but they are quite small, and a little fiddly. Continue up the face with quiet desperation and dodgy wires until the ledge cones to hand. Step L and finish up MP. The original route started up the thin seam on the R face, and was graded 22.

FA: Rob Stazsewski, 1979

17Trad 18m
38 Condor

Disgusting leading up a crappy line to an even more grunty body chimney! Numerous holds and chock stones have fallen out of this route over the years, and the route has been reduced from one of class to that of complete infamy. Belay from MP chains.

FA: Ian Cameron & Chris Knudsen

11 RTrad 18m
39 Last Picture Show

Not a great addition to the cliff. Up Condor for a while (you have already been warned!). Step R into a horrible, wide, groin-breaking, wide V-groove with not a lot of good protection.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Thomas, 1974

18Trad 22m
40 Back Row

Weird! Wanders up a pile of ledges to the same ledge that Fawlty Towers finishes on. Numerous short corners and cracks of varying lengths and widths follow, protection and rock are good. Still a bit of a "Gardener's Delight".

FA: Rick White, Paul Edwards, 1979

20Trad 12m
41 * Yodel up the Valley

The first bolted route at Frog! Kim Carrigan promptly skipped the bolt on the second ascent, reclaiming the hardness of Frog from the bolt-clipping infidels! Starts at the small crack 3m L of MPFC (although most parties start from the ledge above). Off-balance moves up the thin diagonal crack to an awkward move into a sentry box to gain a rest. From here, clip the bolt, step R, and blast straight up the face to easier ground.

FA: Joe Lynch, Dave Demnar, 1981

22Trad 22m
42 * Boris And Natasha DS

Thin, fingery and reachy direct start to BAN. Not the greatest but worth doing if you're in the area. Up the face 2m L of MPFC, follow the bolts.

FA: Matt Hutton

24Trad 22m
43 Boris and Natasha

Shaky climbing on friable holds. Up the bottom crack of YUTV to a ledge. Lean out R and clip the bolt. Step down and traverse out R to the arete. From here, bowel quivering moves lead past another bolt, and some questionable RP's to the top.

FA: John Pearson, Chris Frost, Bill Lukin, 1987

21Trad 22m
44 ** Monty Pythons Flying Circus

Really good. The desperate blank V-groove once had a piton in it, although the "Ethics Police" removed it... 3 times! (It had been climbed for 15 years without need of a piton!) Despite appearances, the groove can be climbed quite safely using friction, prayer and a whole bunch of RP's and micro cams. Flop onto the ledge, whimper and gaze upwards! From here a magnificent corner featuring 3 cracks and classic climbing await you.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Cameron, 1972

19Trad 25m
45 John Cleeses Python

A variant finish to MPFC. Start up MPFC, from the ledge turn away from the amazing corner on the left and tear up the grotty crack on the right wall.

FA: Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

19Trad 22m
46 * Fawlty Towers

Step off the ledge where MPFC finishes, behind a large tree to a corner system on an obscure buttress, capped by a small roof at 3m. Traverse shakily R under this to a ledge. Balancy and technical moves upward bring a smile to your face!

FA: Marty Beare, Dave Moss, 1980

22Trad 10m
47 Death Road 2,000

Complete crap. The horrible blank line 3m R of MPFC actually looks a lot better than it is (which is really saying something). Climb directly up the line over numerous loose blocks, piles of dirt and the bones of the last maniac who was desperate enough to lead such utter mank.

FA: Allen Hansen, Ray Lassman, 1984

18 XTrad 22m
48 * Peaches and Cream

Some people really like this climb; I don't. Climb the shallow corner 5m R of DR2000 and then follow the line. Fiddly pro and dirty rock add to the experience. Belay either hanging from the tree (desperate but strangely cool), or get onto the ledge R of the tree and belay from there.

FA: Bill Noris, Sally Norris, 1980

19Trad 20m
49 Tarzans Dilemma

Tarzan was on drugs! The dirty groove past a tree to a ledge. Continue up the corner R of PC. Keep going up the mank until you want to either stop, or kill yourself from getting on such utter rubbish.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1969

15 RTrad 20m
50 Boltophobia Arete

The crappy little arete in between TD and AG. It features one crotch destroying high step, and that's about it! Gear can be found in the corner to the R (AG).

22Trad 8m
51 Asbestos Grapefruit

The second masterpiece in the "lord of the crap climbs" trilogy. Up the corner R of BA. Continue up a broken and heavily vegetated line, with loose rocks thrown in for free!

FA: Steve Bell, Ron Collett, 1969

13 RTrad 22m
52 Let it Bleed

Scott Camps summed it up best when he said "Let it be Forgotten". Up to a short tricky corner in the vertical jungle. It's so bad that it actually makes AG look like a good alternative!

FA: Steve Bell, Dave Kahler, 1972

15 RTrad 25m
53 Yokomo

Really good, but very short. Boulder up the shallow corner on small gear to the ledge. A few moves up the grunty corner take you to the next ledge. Carefully up loose gully to DMEG anchor.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

20Trad 15m
54 ** Tight Lips and Cold Feet

Classic climbing. Start up Yokomo, and at the ledge take a deep breath, swing out onto the arete and up to a stance and a carrot bolt. The bolt looks to be in the wrong place, but is exactly where you need it! A high runner is possible in Yokomo to stop decking out. From there, fantastic and constantly absorbing climbing leads to the top. RPs are essential at the top.

FA: Simon Vallings, Russell Chudleigh, 1984

22Trad 20m
55 Mainliner

Pretty tough little climb, but well worth it. Up the pillar to the perfect line. Blast up this to a desperate mantle onto the ledge. From there up easily.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

16Trad 20m
56 Dave Manks Electric Gorilla

Bridge the pillar and crack line up to a good stance. Step R into the crack and up. Brilliant jamming. Go R up the gully to the abseil tree.

FA: Rob Stazsewski, Richard Sullivan, 1971

18Trad 20m
57 ** Dave Manks Electric Gorilla Direct Start

Great finger locking up a thin seam. A little tricky to protect lay backing, but well worth the trip. Quite technical and strenuous.

FA: Fred From, 1977

22Trad 10m
58 Dave Manks Electric Gorilla Direct Finish

At the ledge, keep going straight up the scooped arete, as opposed to stepping off R to the tree. Good for a change of scene, but that's about it.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Stuart Camps, Dave Moss, Odette Moss, 1983

17Trad 6m
59 Trap for Young Players

The super thin finger crack to the right of DMEG. Short and pumpy, the difficulties are over within a few moves. Rap as for DMEG.

FA: Dave Moss and party., 1982

20Trad 11m
60 Not Another Bowie Name

Hard to find. Starts high in the mank below (R as you face the cliff) the tourist lookout. Climb up a short crack on a small orange faced buttress. From the horizontal, launch directly up the face.

FA: Rod Young, Mark Moorhead, 1983

21Trad 8m
61 Don Speeds Electric Bird

The crappy corner to the right of TFYP is a close contender for the "worst route on the cliff" award. A single move among the bushes and mank may be found.

FA: Steve Bell, Ron Collett, 1969

14Trad 18m
62 Cut Short

Crappy and dangerous. The corner found on the L side of the dark buttress to the R of DSEB. Up this and then traverse off L.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Robbie Allen, 1982

20 RTrad 13m
63 Cheetah

The R hand line on the same buttress. Disgusting, confused climbing that goes nowhere.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1982

19 RTrad 10m
64 Fluorescent Mank

Why would you do this to yourself? Strap on a chainsaw, gloves and helmet... then thrash for glory up the line of least vegetation and mank to the top of the broken amphitheatre.

FA: Dave Gilleson, 1969

9 RTrad 25m
65 Revolution

A revolution goes around and around, constantly smacking you in the face. Well named! A horrible moss-laden chimney at the start is a fair indication of the quality of broken rock and climbing that is to follow.

FA: Marilyn Dall, Pat Prentergast, 1969

11 RTrad 30m
66 Thing

Left of Erg is a 5m block. Boulder the L arete of this to the top. Good climbing, but falling would not be pleasant.

FA: Kevin Pearl, 1979

18Trad 5m
67 ** Erg

One of the most impressive lines on the cliff. Bridge up the line until the pillar stops. Step into the crack and blast up the ever widening crack. Chock stones and large gear can protect the top body chimney adequately.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1973

20Trad 25m
68 *** Erg Direct

Brilliant, the way to go if you can climb the grade. Up the finger crack without bridging.

22Trad 25m
69 Erg Variant Finish

A good way to avoid the body chimney of Erg. Step L into a short finger crack and blast up this to the top. Quite good.

FA: Malcolm Matheson, Natalie Green, 1983

20Trad 5m
70 ** Hard Nose

Classic arete climbing. Go up BL, step out L at the fixed hanger. Blast up the arete past 2 more hangers while your right arm gets the workout of the century! Finish up BL.

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1983

25Trad 25m
71 ** Hard Nose DS

Even better than Hard Nose. Step out L a little lower to a square cut hold on the arete. Clip the carrot bolt and proceed to wobble up 4m of balancy desperation bringing amazing movement and positions to hand.

26Unknown 5m
72 *** Black Light

Brilliant climbing up and amazing line. A thin and bouldery start leads to a searing corner of unsurpassed quality. Thin hand jams and finger locks lead exhaustingly to a ledge. From there, continue easily to the belay tree.

FA: Ian Lewis, Rick White, 1975

22Trad 25m
73 Blood of the Christ

Not so good. Thrutch and jam up the initial corner system until it eases in the middle. Head up the crack and round the overhang to the ledge. The protection is ample, but fiddly and awkward to place on the lead. Rap from tree.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

18 RTrad 25m
74 *** Child in Time

Simply amazing. A tough start leads to one of the most sustained and awesome climbs imaginable. The gear throughout is bombproof, and the climb itself is a contender for the best route on the cliff, regardless of grade.

FA: FA White/Cais 1973, FFA Barber 1975

22Trad 25m
75 ** Debrilla

Originally named "Dobrilla" by ML after a friend, a typo in the guide resulted in Debrilla.

An awesome climb featuring strenuous and unique movement to gain the top. Mixed wires and bolt protection lead the way, with a desperate arete slapping technique similar to bear hugging fridges required to gain the jug. Finish up CIT

FA: Mike Law, 1988

28Trad 25m
76 *** Resurrection Corner

A hardish move onto the ledge (step in from the R) gains a rest. From here blast up the unrelenting twin crack system until your arms and legs wish to explode! Gain a slight rest under a bulge, and then blissfully climb the single crack to the ledge. Walk L through the cave/chimney to rap off as for BC.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

18Trad 25m
77 ** Venom

Classic off-width thrashing up a glass smooth overhanging crack line... surprisingly unpopular really! Finish up a finger crack. It is very difficult not to step on or kick your gear out of place on the way up. Football jersey, jeans and knee pads are optional! Climbed by Ted Cais and Ian Thomas with one rest and avoiding the direct finish in July 1973.

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

21Trad 25m
78 Fat Mattress

Start up Venom and step R at 3m. Bridge up a slightly overhanging corner crack system to a ledge. Crank hard off the ledge to get up the next hand crack with some difficulty, then to a rest. Easily to the top. Bolt anchor/belay. Used to be graded 15!! The direct start still awaits a clean ascent. Climbed by Rick White and Ian Cameron by aiding the start in Jan 1971.

FA: Steve Bell, 1972

16Trad 30m
79 Fat Mattress Direct

FA: Craig Pohlman Robert Audsley, 2007

25Trad 6m
80 Swashbuckler 24Trad 15m
81 Holy Ghost

The disgusting body chimney R of FM. Destroy your body, grunting up this disgusting excuse for climbing, finish as for FM.

FA: Rick White (solo), 1971

15Trad 15m
82 Keep Left

Brutal climbing, sustained and difficult. Crank up the smooth line, all sorts of lay-aways and locks are required to grunt up this one.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Greg Child, 1978

24Trad 15m
83 *** Lead-lined Lothario

Desperate and grunty finger locking up a glass smooth corner. It can be made considerably easier by use of the "secret" foot jamming technique. Buy Rob a beer at the pub for all the info!

FA: Nic Taylor, Rob Staszewski, Rick White, 1976

22Trad 15m
84 The Anti-Crookneck

A good second pitch to the two previous routes. The ridiculously blank looking corner 5m L of KL with 2 pitons is where this mission starts! From there continue desperately until it is possible to wobble R to easier ground. Step L when able to, and finish steeply up the L side of the arete. Double ropes are thoroughly recommended for this lead.

FA: Fred From, Joe Lynch, 1983

23Trad 20m
85 *** Carrion Comfort

Named "Forever Young" by Rob when he freed the line... although it had already been named Carrion Comfort by the FA party! A visionary effort by Rob Staszewski, and, for a long time, the hardest route put up by a local climber. Desperate locking and laybacks lead the way up the leaning corner. Great gear can be found, stopping to place it is the trick! Rap off a small fig tree. A test piece for any aspiring crack master!

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1979

25Trad 25m
86 Catcher in the Rye

Super thin face climbing up the shallow V-groove. A high runner in Inquisition can reduce the potential for gravity to slap you about. Top rope the initial section (achieved by using The Force/levitation), then go up the sustained corner.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

27Trad 25m
87 ** Inquisition

Really good climbing that deserves to be more popular. Follow the crack system to the large ledge. From here, blast up the off-width corner, stopping to wonder how people stay attached to WK! Step R up a face crack, and then to an easy but loose finish. Number 4-6 cams (BD) or big bros are essential to do this route safely.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1973

19Trad 25m
88 *** Whistling Kite

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

FA: Paul Smith, 1988

32Trad 30m
89 *** Pokamoko (and the Valley Girl)

Start off the pillar below WK. Grunt up the initial off-width with a shaky cam keeping things sane. A line of bolts leads the way up this route with stunning positions and insanely classy movement throughout. The top section is quite run out, and very thin.

FFA: Sebastian Schwertner

30Trad 30m
90 * Cannabis Crack

Brutal grunting up a visciously smooth corner. It also features quite a tricky start. All in all, there are far better routes to go and beat yourself up upon!

FA: Trevor Gynther, Ian Thomas, 1975

20Trad 35m
91 * Blood, Sweat and Tears

A classic grunt up a great line with a tree at half height. Quite strenuous and difficult in places, but excellent protection is available throughout. Head R at the top. Originally graded 15! Has been the scene of several serious falls.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

16Trad 40m
92 *** Future Tense

Climb up BST until the tree. The original start up the desperate line 1m to the R is so thin and under protected that it has never been repeated. From the tree, step up and R to follow the increasingly difficult line. Desperate, thin climbing featuring one hell of a sting in the tail!

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

26Trad 40m
93 * Badfinger

Quite challenging. A hard start to an off-width crack. From here blast up a pleasant finger crack taking a well-earned rest on a ledge. Jam up to a tree, then climb a fear-inducing face to easy finish.

FA: Henry Barber, John Fantini, 1975

22 RTrad 30m
94 ** The Lords Prayer

With under 10 ascents in 21 years this is definitely a route not to be taken lightly! On one early attempt, Ian Cameron pulled off a 20m lead fall!!! Incredibly thin edging (to the point of requiring levitation abilities) up the steep face split by a micro seam. Micro cams and RPs provide adequate but spacious protection.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1973

27Trad 30m
95 Blody Red Rooster

Complete and utter mank. A vine-filled pile of crap that should never have been climbed.

FA: Joe Friend, Kim Carrigan, 1973

19Trad 25m
96 ** Satanic Majesty

Blast up for a few moves then traverse L to a diagonal crack. Strenuous jams that don't quite work as well as you want to provide barrels of fun! The steep hand crack above is superb!

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

23Trad 30m
97 * Hallowed Ground

A visionary effort by Matt. The improbably thin line to the right of SM provides good movement on very thin holds throughout. Superb positions and style, with Matt's "at least you won't hit the deck" bolt spacing technique providing loads of spice!! A little contrived, but worth a lap.

FA: Matt Hutton, 2003

27Trad 30m
98 Our Father

A long and brutal expedition with no real rewards for the effort. Start as for SM, then thrash your way up the never-ending corner of doom! A great climb for those who are into self-inflicted pain and suffering.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1970

16 RTrad 45m
99 Suggestive Poses

Not a whole lot better. Climb OF for the first few meters to a ledge. From there, step R into a dark corner and up. Halfway up the corner, step R at a piton that may ho an ant's body weight. Scarily up the arete to the top of the pillar. Down climb this easily to get off.

FA: Joe Lynch, Roger Bourne, Margert Smith, 1983

19 RTrad 25m
100 Which Art in Heaven

Really tough finger crack boulder problem to start. The good climbing ends here. If you must...continue up the body chimney for extra "old school" status!

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White. Rick White, Ian Cameron ., 1976

22Trad 24m
101 ** Steel Fingers

Brilliant climbing up a very classy line. The grade is 21 if you blast up the side and skip the diabolically thin start of WAIH! From the ledge, motor up the orange-faced corner system on great locks and better pro, At the rooflet, step R around the arete and follow the obvious line to the top. Rope drag can really be an issue on this climb. Twin ropes or long slings recommended.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

22Trad 40m
102 * Rack and Ruin

Quite easy to get lost on this and wind up doing another route! Start up LOTF until you come to a shallow finger crack in a corner on the pillar to the left. Blast up this to the top. Pretty tough for the grade.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

20Trad 40m
103 * Lord of the Flies

Not a great route. It starts with good finger locks, but quickly reverts to a long and crappy groove.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

20Trad 40m
104 Lord of the Flies Variant Start

The rarely done bread stroker's alternate start was the original start...not recommended. Start up the off-width 1m to the L at the V-Groove.

FA: Ted Cais, 1974

19Trad 8m
105 Onlookers Omelette Left Side

Was the scene of a freak accident in 2006.

Climber survived a ground fall after his rope was sliced in two by the sharp edge.

A good place to practice placing big bros etc. This short very wide crack is an absolute must for all aspiring masters of the trutch!

FA: Ted Cais, Jim Bright, Rick White, 1973

19Trad 10m
106 Onlookers Omelette Right Side

More crap...up the other wide of the pillar. Start up the flake, then wander up assorted atrocities until you collapse onto Theory Ledge, vowing never to climb this again.

FA: Trevor Gynther, Rhys Davies, 1973

15Trad 20m
107 Syrius

A crappy little off-width continues up to an equally dodgy line above. Not very good.

FA: Rick White, Barry Overs, 1971

15Trad 20m
108 Snipe

Tough. A dyno ff the ground sets the theme. Follow this up the arete past 2 bolts. Hard not to step into Pollux. Finish on Theory Ledge.

FA: Robbie Allen, Marty Beare, 1983

22Mixed 23m, 2
109 ** Pollux

Probably the toughest 20 at Frog if you can't climb off-widths! Disregard this if you have a foot-long beard and 20-year-old EB boots in your possession. Up the brilliant hand crack to the off-balance, off-width through two bulges. Big cams keep things sane. Really impressive climbing!

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1974

20Trad 23m
110 * Castor

Great climbing and a fair introduction to the lost art of off-width climbing at the top. The hard move onto the ledge has seen more than one "head jam" attempt, although this is not a requirement of the route!

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

16Trad 22m
111 Elven Castle

Bolted

FA: Matt

25Sport 25m
112 ** The Elven King

Although top roped by numerous people in the past, it took Matt's vision to actually prepare and lead this amazing route. Named after the 3 Rings for the Elven Kings in Tolkein's masterpiece "The Lord of the Rings". Up a thin line on natural gear to a very tricky step left. Move up steep, thin and unrelenting face climbing past 3 ring bolts. From there, easily up and R to the top of Theory (need big cam).

FA: Matt Hutton, Kerrod Davidson., 2001

25Sport 25m, 3
113 * Theory

Up the first corner to a ledge. From here, most people step into the middle line under the R edge of a huge chock stone-like flake. Up this with increasing difficulty to rest. Alternatively, you can go up SC for a move or two and step in L. From here, blast up the chock stone filled corner, and then easily to the chains at the tree.

FA: Rick White & Ron Collett; Rick White, Ron Collett; Rick White, Ron Collett

14Trad 25m
114 * Sacrilege Crack

Someone once got their leg stuck in this crack and had to call the SES.

The route immediately R of Theory. Up an ever widening crack that trends R up a pillar. Wide and desperate, but it does have some good moments.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1972

18Trad 25m

Theory Ledge

This ledge features some classic climbs and is a great way to spend an afternoon. The ledge can be approached by climbing any of the climbs between 'Onlooker's Omelette Left Side' and 'The Elven King'.

Alternatively a tree marked with "FC" in its trunk shows the way to the rap into the ledge from the top. It should be mentioned that the tree is a little hard to find the first time, so look hard.

115 Forked Tongue

Though for the grade! This route at the far L end of the ledge is at you from the first move! Varied crack and face climbing leads up to a final tight V-groove at the top. The trick at the start is deep jamming!

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1973

16Trad 15m
116 Moonlighter

The second classy 16 to be found on this ledge. Start up the broken rocks to a L facing corner. Up this and then step R onto the ledge. The gear is good, but a little fiddly to place.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

16Trad 15m
117 Gangrene

Up Moonlighter for 3m and then step R onto the wall. Up this on friable flakes and large amounts of adrenalin.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Gordon Bieske, 1982

17 RTrad 15m
118 * Off the Wall

Classy climbing unfortunately marred by a ledge at half height. Bridge desperately or layback the thin crack up the dark corner to a ledge. Rest here and then launch up the classy line above. One tricky move sees you to the top. A little weird to protect in places. But the gear is great once you figure it out.

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976

19Trad 13m
119 Slippin' Away

Hard and thin. Blast up the unbelievably thin line directly above Theory. Bridge, layback, levitate and slap your way to the top. Quite a serious route.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

22Trad 13m
120 * Farty Clacker

A climb best led on twin ropes. Start up SA for 4m placing a high runner in the corner. A tricky move R around the arete brings a stance and some much awaited protection. Blast up the crack and arete. Good fun.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Dave Moss, 1982

18Trad 12m
121 ** Southern Comfort

The best line off the ledge. A very smooth corner with some grunty finger locking the key to success. Great gear and movement make this a must do.

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976

19Trad 15m
122 The Kiwi Experience

FA: Merry and Dan (NZ), 2009

19Trad 12m
123 Into the Fire

This route no longer exists as it fell to the bottom of the cliff. Description here for historic purposes.

A two-move wonder right off the ledge, but what a hell of a way to start the climb! Desperately thin moves to a stance, sigh of relief and gear, easily up the fist crack to finish. Should be more popular.

FA: Rick White, Nic Taylor, 1976

20Trad 12m

Right of Sacrilege Crack

Back on ground level and to the right of 'Sacrilege Crack'.

124 Grandma's Tonic

Complete crap. Overground, dirty and downright ugly moves up an even worse looking corner all make this one to put your best mate on!

FA: Rick White & Ian Cameron

14 RMixed 18m, 1
125 * Sabrasucker

Used to be grade 14, so it has seen more than its fair share of whimpering and battered beginner leaders. The route is excellent, and well worth a trip. Up the thin, widening crack R of GT. The crack tends to throw you off balance, but plenty of good feet help. Rest at a ledge before continuing directly up the cracks to a V-groove finish. Belay at the ledge off a rap chain and great natural pro.

Rap off 'Theory' Ledge.

FA: Trevor Gynther & Rob Staszewski

16 RTrad 18m

Above Sabrasucker

The next 5 routes are above and to the right of 'Sabrasucker'.

126 Worthless

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

Not very good at all. Used to be a direct finish for GT. Loose rock and questionable gear are the name of the game, with a tricky and strenuous move to finish.

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1976

16 RTrad 15m
127 Right Side of the Shield

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

False advertising at its worst. This route looks to be one of the most proud and stunning lines Frog. It isn't! The broken ramble to the corner then goes to a tricky corner problem with a seam for RPs etc on the L face. Most of the gear would hold...Maybe! The crack above is a bit of a light at the end of a very long, dark tunnel.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

20 RTrad 15m
128 Sister Boogie Woman

No longer exists after the 2009 rockfall.

The arete just R of Worthless. This route starts just to the L of the semi-detached pillar. Cool moves up the arete are quickly forgotten by looking at the very dodgy bolt. Easy moves up the corner to finish.

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984

21 RTrad 15m
129 Danger, Danger, Evacuate!

A flared and ugly looking groove directly above the pillar. From there blast up to a ledge, and then, with difficulty, up a crack full of chock stones.

FA: Paul Grey, Stuart Camps, 1984

18Trad 12m
130 Slough Stuff

Not bad but not one to plan your whole day around either. Climb the line R of DDE up a thin crack to a rest on a sloping ledge. From here up a flake and past a piton (hand sized cams essential).

FA: Stuart Camps, 1984

22Trad 12m

Past Sabrasucker

This sector is back on the ground (Walking Track) Level starting to the right of 'Sabrasucker' and heading back towards the scree slope.

131 * Famous Cosmetics

Start at the small corner R of Sabrasucker. Bridge up this to a desperate little move onto the ledge. From here motor up one of the best and most pure cracks there is at Frog to the next ledge. It is best to get off here by stepping L through the chimney and rapping off as for Sabrasucker. If you must continue, add 20m, take off all the stars, lose all the enjoyment of the last 20m and thrash up some pretty ordinary climbing to the top.

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1978

20Trad 40m
132 Phatang

Too many ledges, all directly below tricky moves. The climbing is long, confused and absorbing, but the number of hardish moves off ledges make this climb diabolical for someone just leading at the grade. Worth a lap if you're solid at 17.

FA: Rick White, Trevor Gynther, 1972

17Trad 40m
133 Delilah

A technical and risky climb, although the difficulties are not sustained. Up 'Phatang' for 3m, then desperately R to a ledge and hard mantle. Continue easily up for a while, until a short hard corner section gives your nerves a final jolt! Easily after that to the top.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

22 RTrad 40m
134 Ride Me High

A confused and dangerous variation of Delilah. Solo up the micro seam 2m L of Impulse, joining the line Delilah. Mantle the same hard move then R at the next ledges into a groove. Climb on and finish as for Delilah.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

22 RTrad 40m
135 Face Ache

Weird climbing up the L side of Borderline 29 arete. Not bad but there are only a few short moves of class.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Andrew Barry, 1982

22Trad 12m
136 Warrumbugles in My Backyard

Rubbish! A choss-ridden, mank infested gardener's delight. The corner to the L of FA. Approach by climbing either of the last two routes, or rap in from the LLL belay tree.

FA: Gordon Bieske, Robbie Allen, 1982

18Trad 12m
137 *** Impulse

Unbelievable awe-inspiring climbing. Possibly the best climb at Frog. A tricky start up the twin cracks leads to a good rest at half height. Suck in large amounts of oxygen and prepare your already tiring muscles for the onslaught above! Blast straight up the line with fantastic protection and amazing moves the whole way. Balancy moves R to the ledge and rap chains keep the adrenalin flowing! It is possible to link Impulse and Borderline 29, straight up the L of the arete at the same grade.

FA: Greg Child, Kim Carrigan (YoYo), 1978

24Trad 25m
138 Cracks in the Pavement

A hernia-inducing beast, up the very thin line. RPs are essential to keep you from cratering. A bouldery start up a thin corner 2m L of LLL. A difficult mantle onto the ledge that Impulse finishes on (belay from here possible). If you are keen, motor up the corner and hand crack to the top of the pillar. Finish up LLL pitch 2!

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

23 RTrad 25m
139 * Liquid Laughter Layback

A scene of several serious accidents over the past years. The second route ever climbed at the cliff.

  1. An easy hand crack leads to the first of several ledges. Up the line of least resistance to a dark, tight v-groove. Up this with much grunting and difficulty. The gear in the groove is excellent, althought it can be problematic to place due to the tight nature of the chimney, and the positions you can manage to get yourself into! Belay at the top of the pillar.

  2. Up the beautiful hand crack to a ledge system. Up easily to the tree with a rap chain.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

17Trad 38m
140 *** Borderline 29

Absolute class. Step L off the pillar from the top of LLL pitch 1. Step out onto the blank face with quiet desperation and bowel rupturing exposure! Place a high runner in LLL to prevent a factor 2 flass. Up the line and arete in spectacular positions to an easy top out. The climb is up a semi-detached flake system, so placing cams is not recommended...falling on them could be quite exciting.

FA: Mike Law ('s), 1970

18Trad 15m
141 * Don't Spare the Rod

Gives you faith in the power of friction! Not a bad variant finish to LLL if you have already done 'Borderline 29' a few times! From the top of the same belay ledge/pillar, step into the smooth groove with a very thin crack in the back. Desperate friction bridging leads to a stance. Up the hand crack above to a spicy little sequence through the head wall above.

FA: Dave Moss, Paul Hoskins, 1983

18Trad 16m
142 King Shits and Dead Shits

A great variant start to LLL. Much better moves than LLL but you still wind up in the disgusting V-groove of LLL. Start around the corner 3m R of LLL. Up the line above to join LLL at the base of the groove.

FA: Ross Allen, Bill Atkinson., 1970

17Trad 20m
143 Irky Perky

This climb is super contrived and hard to protect. The desperate line to the R of KSDS. I am taking the word of good climbers on this one, as I was too scared to even top rope it! It simply looks brutal, contrived and unpleasant.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

25Trad 30m
144 Close to the Edge

The long groove 1m right of IP requires numerous crack masteries to get to the top! Up to the bulge, passing this on the R. From here up a long and desperate off-width like corner, stepping L at the top. Gear is adequate.

FA: Greg Child, Keith Bell., 1975

21Trad 35m
145 Anal Teens Direct Start

This beautifully named direct finish came from the title of a porno magazine. Up the face crack on the wall to the R of CTTE. This very bouldery climb features 1 bolt, and lots of panic. Was 25, but the only jug on the whole route decided to fall off!

FA: Kim Carrigan., 1981

27Trad 10m
146 Anal Teens

A variation on PP. Hard and committing. Up PP to the rooflet at 15m. Swing out L and up the crack until it re-joins PP. The only real reason to do this route is so that you can have fun answering the question "what did you do today?".

FA: Dave Moss, Marty Beare, Rick White, 1980

22Trad 35m
147 * Plummeting Pinapple

The first half of this climb is quite difficult with a very acrobatic and strenuous crux. Above this is a pretty average crack that steps R around a rooflet. The final crappy groove can be avoided by climbing the L face.

FA: Trevor (pineapple-eater) Gynther, John Fantini., 1975

21Trad 35m
148 Bongos and Beached Whales

A good variant finish for PP. A beautifully exposed arete just to the R of the final groove on PP.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Joe Lynch, 1983

21Trad 10m
149 Bongos and Beached Whales Direct

Super contrived! Climb the wall in between PP and CE, with protection found in both of these climbs. Finish as described.

FA: Andrew Barry, Paul Hoskins, 1983

23Trad 25m
150 * Corner of Eden

The first route ever climbed at Frog! Good bridging with adequate pro despite appearances. Excellent technical chimney climbing at the top as it narrows to a body crack. It helps to keep all your gear on a sling on your L hip! The first ascent actually skipped the top chimney by going L onto the face.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

FFA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1973

20Trad 35m
151 Ground to a Halt

Extremely serious climbing up a very thin wall. This route goes up the faint line to the L of EP and is essentially a solo problem. Finish by traversing R along a diagonal seam back into EP. Small gear, good head space and a death with are all essential ingredients for success!

FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Shepherd., 1982

23 RTrad 14m
152 ** Egotistical Pinapple

Brilliant. A desperate little move out of the cave sees you to a stance. Blast up this to a difficult thin section at half height. Grunt up the top to the ledge. Constantly interesting with bombproof gear all combine to make this route deservedly popular!

FA: Rick White, 1973

20Trad 14m
153 * Sticky Date

The blunt arete right of EP. Potential for dead branch in rectum if you fall off the crux.

Start: Do first 2m of Egotistical 'Pineapple' then right onto the arete.

FA: Two carrots added by Roger Bourne. Possibly previously top roped by Hoskins., 1995

23 RTrad 10m
154 The Guilt By Association Years

Not the best route. The arete 1m R of EP, and just L of PP. Up a hard move to a stance and the first of 2 carrot bolts. Take a deep breath, and flail up the arete on extremely thin holds, and balancy moves. The second bolt is extremely hard to clip, and a fall at this point would result in truckloads of pain! From there continue with difficulty to the top. Not Douglas's finest hour.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Edwin Irvine, 1994

23Sport 10m
155 Parsons Pleasure

A brilliant beginner's lead. Start at the obvious corner 3m R of EP. Up this line on excellent gear to the ledge. Rap chains are found here; alternatively, you can keep goign up the twin crack system at grade 15.

FA: Mike Meadows, Chris Meadows, 1969

11Trad 10m
156 Macbarren

Total crap. Straddle and hump the arete immediately R of PP, thrash awkwardly to the ledges. Good if you never ever waht to have children!

FA: Mac Thompson, Mike Mahoney., 1970

12Trad 5m
157 Babys Bottom

Grunt and bridge up the dark corner to the R of PP. From there easily to the chains above PP. The climbing is good, but a little grunty. The gear is really good, but can be awkward and strenuous to place for a novice leader.

FA: Mac Thompson, Mike Mahoney., 1970

14Trad 8m
158 Pop-up Toaster

The route up the corner directly above PP. From the ledge you tend to stay in the R crack, and then easily to the top.

FA: Bill Norris, Sally Norris, 1980

15Trad 6m
159 Three Nuns

A very short twin crack corner to a ledge stance. From there, ramble up the line of best rock and least vegetation.

FA: Mike Meadows, Chris Meadows., 1969

9Trad 20m
160 Doctor Pats Crack

This route is so short that it's very hard to justify uncoiling a rope and racking up. If you must, blast up the corner for about 2 moves!

FA: Chris Meadows, Mike Meadows., 1973

12Trad 10m

1.2. West of the access track 233 routes in Sector

Summary:
Mostly Trad

Long/Lat: 152.618998, -27.984831

Description:

All routes West (to the left walking down) of the scree slope track that heads down from the car park.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Trick or Treat

What a complete waste of time, paper and oxygen! Yet another case of beard stroking bumblies at work.

FA: Bill Norris, 1980

14Trad 4m
2 Left Behind 22Trad
3 * Lord Drool

Really good climbing, a pity about the gear. Start on the ledge above SOH. Off-balance moves up a L leaning seam get you to a stance and a very lonely carrot bolt. From there sequency and thin moves see you to the top. Easier if you reach around to the R. Potential for a very effective deck-out if you fall from near the top. A good candidate for top roping.

FA: Richard Henderson, 1986

22 RSport 6m
4 Sleight of Hand

Really very good and deserves to be more popular. Originally done as a solo. The small dark wall to the left of COC offers enjoyable and classy face climbing. Yet another top rope candidate as the climbing should really not be missed. Take off a grade if you're tall!

FA: Kevin Pearl (solo), 1979

20 RTrad 8m
5 * Clockwork Orange Corner

Very popular, mainly due to the fact that it stays in the shade all day! Classy but technical climbing ascends the very obvious corner R of SOH. Excellent gear with a slightly awkward and overhung crux. Up easily to belay at the trees on the large ledge.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

13Trad 15m
6 Bel-air

Up the crack on the R edge of the COC chimney. Climb this till it ends at a daunting overhang. Whack in a nest of gear and blast for the bolt (carrot) over a hard bulge for a move or two. Continue R and finish easily.

FA: Paul Hoskins Re-established by Richard Henderson, Paul AcAntee, 1980

23Trad 15m
7 ** Blow by Blow

Solo up the face of the pillar to the left of OA up to a ledge and tree. It is best to get off there. If you must, climb the shallow seam just to the L of OA on very dodgy pro to the top.

FA: Mike Law, 1970

17 RMixed 18m, 1
8 Orchid Alley

Often nicknamed "Awkward Alley". This climb gets far more attention than it deserves. Climb a great hand crack corner to a flake at 3m... the good climbing ends there. Blast up the wide and grunty crack to the ledge with a tree on the L. From here 3 lines are possible, the L most is probably the best option, but they all suck!

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

14Trad 20m
9 Strawberry Alarm-clock

No good. The dark chimney to the left of DWHP offers basically no protection and is a desperate and scary lead for the novice climber. A large block at half height provides the crux as well as the only decent piece of pro!

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

10 RTrad 20m
10 ** Down With His Pants

Arete following up 3 carrots just on the left of the scree slope. Start just to the right of 'SA' chimney.

Stuart Camps and Gordon Bieske originally did the top crack in March 1983, called Runners are Nuts.

FA: Roger Bourne, Evan Bieske, 1985

24Mixed 20m, 3
11 Nemesis

This wide and daunting crack has seen more than its fair share of aspiring leaders turned into a dribbling, pumped, senseless mass of despair! The gear is excellent, but make sure you take up plenty of big gear to protect this climb adequately. Without this protection, a ground fall is extremely probable. Lay back up the first crack on polished foot holds to a ledge at 6m. From here, thrash up the wide crack until it is possible to step R. Easily to the top.

FA: Ted Cais, Mike Meadows, 1969

19Trad 25m
12 Lambs Fry

Very difficult for the vertically challenged! Kick off the tree to get up the initial blank corner. A hard mantle onto a choss-filled ledge gains a rest. Up the cracked arete above.

FA: Jeff Lamb, Dave Wagland, 1980

23Trad 25m
13 Lape

An absolute must do for the aspiring hex-clanking, hemp rope-using, old school, lord of thrutch! The horrible tight chimney to the L of AS. A difficult move off the top of the pillar and fairly dodgy pro all the way add to the ambience of this climb.

FA: Lance Rutherford and BWC party., 1969

12Trad 27m
14 American Snake

Up Lape to the top of the pillar (you have already been warned). Step R and up the arete, then good pro and moves in the crack above. The move off the pillar is hard and unprotected.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Fred From., 1981

21Trad 27m
15 * No Return

Start up the finger crack in the V-groove R of Lape, step off the top of the pillar, but continue out to the arete. Up this shaky affair past a roof to a ledge. Continue up and around R to finish. Absolutely desperate, with quite small and shallow gear at the crux!

FA: Rob Staszewski, 1979

22Trad 30m
16 No Return Direct Finish

The corner above the ledge. Not really a lot better than the original.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

FA: Paul Hoskins, 1983

23Trad 5m
17 ** Life at the Top

Quite risky and serious. Climb the tree R of NR until you can step onto the blank face above the bulge. Follow a thin pocketed seam until it ends, keep going R until a jug comes to hand. Mantle as for NR.

FA: Chris Shepard. Roger Bourne eliminated the two fixed slings., 1982

25 RTrad 30m
18 ** Time for Tea

Classy climbing up a visionary line. Go up the broken corner R of NR, to some rooflets. Past these on the left, passing bolts. From here, veer up and L (nut possible), then begin angling diagonally to the arete. From there, veer L to the top on super thin holds, and quite exposed climbing.

FA: Steve Mayers, 1987

27Trad 35m
19 * You Climb This, I'll Climb Something Else

Death. Start at the arete just R of TFT. Climb past 2 bolts and a wire at the roof. From here, climb with tendon-rupturing brutality up the arete and wall past the gap where Rob removed the bolts, thereby returning the route to its original state. This was done to hounour Rick Whites' dream of a bolt-free cliff.

FA: Rob Staszewski. Direct start added by Scott Camps., 1984

25 RTrad 40m
20 Fat Dog

The utterly contrived piece of junk to the L of A1. Step off the rock pedestal onto the arete. Climb the face, avoiding the crack, to the ledge above. Move R to a crack system and finish up the thin seam.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1983

22Trad 10m
21 Arknamton 3

This climb is horrible. A very short, vegetation-filled off-width with loose rock and poor pro. If you decide to climb this, hit yourself really hard, and move on!

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From, 1978

18 RTrad 12m
22 Arknamton 1

Grotty climbing on loose flakes makes this yet another death lead classic! Up the hollow flakes, with surprisingly ok gear to the ledge. Ascend the corner behind to the top.

FA: Ross Allen, Sid Tanner, 1969

14 RTrad 30m
23 Arknamton 2

Surprisingly good. Fun climbing up the corner, with excellent gear. The route has one weird move before it eases. Rap off here, or finish as for A1.

FA: Ross Allen, Sid Tanner, 1969

18Trad 30m
24 Non Compos Mentis

A blight on the face of the world. 10 sticks of dynamite could only assist in making this climb slightly better. The wide, loose, dark line, full of loose blocks and worse!

FA: Joe Lynch, Jeff Morgan., 1981

19 RTrad 25m
25 ** Dangerously Sane

The orange arête between Non Compos Mentis and Self Expression. Start in NCM, nice moves up and diagonally R past a small triangular pedestal to gain a crack on the R wall, (alternatively, thrutch up the ugly offwidth). Hug the arête passing two BR's (crux) to another small pedestal (alien/TCU on R). Continue straight up the arête to finish R of the bulging rock on top. Chain on tree. 2 BR's, wires, SLCD's. A small alien or TCU in a thin slot makes the second half less dangerous/more sane. It fits a quadcam but not as well.

FA: Matt Hutton, Danny Rose

23Trad 22m
26 ** Self Expression

Truly insane climbing up a desperately thin seam. Wobble and shake and whimper your way up on good RPs, small wires and one crappy piton. Strenuous, technical and classy. This was an awesome and inspiring effort by Kim Carrigan.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

26Trad 20m
27 Canned Heat

The orange, shattered corner to the R of SE. Bush bash about 10m to the base of the route. Loose and often dirty, this route is quite demanding for the grade. Protection is ample; placing it is another thing.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1969

17Trad 20m
28 * How Are Your Calluses Today

This brutal and sustained tendon destroyer features some of the sharpest and thinnest crimpers on the cliff. Step onto the L side of the large blank wall to the L of EF. Follow the line of bolts up the face to the top.

FA: Sebastian Schwertner, 1992

29Trad 20m
29 ** Electronic Flag

A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. An optional direct start up the desperate corner and crack goes at grade 19. This used to be 17, but the thrashing feet of 10 thousand struggling leaders have reduced this to a spit polished sandbag. One alternate start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17. The 14 variant starts 6m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section. Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down).

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1969

14Trad 40m
30 * Electronic Flag DS

Instead of climbing around it, go straight up the almost perfect crack in the almost perfect corner.

19Trad 10m
31 * Second Song

A traverse from 'Electronic Flag' over to 'Fluid Journey'.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1984

18Trad 30m
32 ** Paranoia

Brutal but amazing climbing up the searing corner R of EF. Up and L into the seam proper to a small stance. Blast up this to the ledge above. Completely unrelenting in the second half. Despite its appearances this route is well protected. Bring loads of small wires and cams.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

25Trad 25m
33 The Gentle Lion

A good second pitch to Paranoia. Climb the improbable and technical shallow seam directly above. There are some dodgy flakes on the face: beware! Join 'Wango Tango' (which comes in from the R), continue easily to the top.

FA: Dave Faernley, Kim Carrigan, 1982

24Trad 12m
34 *** Worrying Heights

Absolutely stunning climbing up one of the better lines on the entire cliff! This long and technical corner involves some of the most amazing bridging and lay backing there is. Finish up Piranha.

FA: Chris Peisker., 1979

24Trad 30m
35 * Ginger Bitch

A direct finish to QC, or a fun variant finish for Insomnia. Instead of stepping R and climbing up the finish of Insomnia, climb the arete directly above the finish of QC passing 2 bolts. Bowel-rupturing exposure, and nice technical movement makes this climb well worth the trip.

FA: Scott Camps, 1987

24Trad 15m
36 Quite Contrary

A link up. Start at the corner 1m R of WH. Up the closed corner and into Piranha. Up the R crack of Piranha until it blanks out. From here, step R into Insomnia and up. There are better routes to do.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Louise Shepherd., 1982

23Trad 40m
37 *** Piranha

An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and chain on a tree.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1970

20Trad 45m
38 Wango Tango

A variant finish to Piranha. It features quite nice climbing, but the rock quality is questionable in places. Off the ledge, climb Piranha until it steps L, and keep going out L across the wall. Breathe a sigh of relief when you reach the crack, bumble up above with great moves and gear.

FA: Dave Moss, Paul Hoskins., 1982

19Trad 15m
39 *** Insomnia

One of the first 23s in Australia! Although previously downgraded, this route has lost non of its spice over the years. Up the brilliant V-groove with phenomenally classy bridging and face work, capped by a desperate mantle on to the ledge. From here, grunt up the classic off-width to an easy finish! Originally aided by Staszewski and Killop, they backed off realizing that a better climber might one day free this amazing line. All were stunned and inspired when it was freed by Henry Barber.

FA: Henry Barber, Rick White, 1975

23Trad 40m
40 ** Fluid Journey

Quite good. Up the initial corner to a hard move onto a ledge. From here, thin locking and classic bridging bring the top to hand.

FA: Ajax Green, John Smart, 1977

21Trad 40m
41 ** Fluid / Epic Link Up / Fluid-Epic Connection

Climb Fluid Journey until possible to pull into Epic Journey at about half height. Combines the easiest sections of both routes.

18Trad 30m
42 *** Epic Journey

Brilliant, graceful and absorbing climbing up the twin cracks stating off the small ledge right of FJ. Some of the most elegant face climbing and layaway moves around. Step L into the single crack with joyous jamming and chimney moves above.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1977

23Trad 30m
43 ** Stand in Line

Wow! Start up the desperate corner R of EJ with crappy gear and a rusty piton playing head games with you as you stare it in the eye! If you fall in the first 15m, it is more than likely that you will deck out! Climb this to a stance. Up the desperately thin corner on imaginary holds, using scary and spacious protection to the top. Some good wires about half way up are the only real protection you get on the whole route. Quite a serious lead although it really does feature some excellent movement.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1981

27 RTrad 28m
44 * Green Plastic Comb

A very hard route to protect well on lead. Start on the cracked arete, up this for a few moves and then out onto the R face. Quiver up the face on thin holds with RPs and flared token cam placements guaranteeing your concentration! A hard move on the arete moves the route to the L face and an excellent #3 RP. From there, flail up the face to where the obvious diagonal crack line leads R to a ledge. This crack is actually quite easy but feels relatively hard due to the fact that most climbers are pumped completely senseless by then! Follow this to a ledge, then easily up. Rap as for SIL.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen., 1979

25Trad 20m
45 * Sadhana

If you arms are still capable of basic function, this should help to finish them off! The direct finish to GPC features classic climbing up a delicate arete. From where the crack goes R, head straight up the arete past a lone bolt. Run it out to the top.

FA: Scott Camps, Kishi Takamori, 1988

26Mixed 10m, 1
46 * Handy Andy

Most people tend to onsight this route, due to the fact that a fall could be very nasty! Bridge up the completely blank corner, pretending that there are actually holds. Very desperate climbing past the two pitons. Not a climb for the faint hearted.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1982

27 RMixed 20m, 2
47 Flange Desire

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get.

FA: Kevin Lindorff., 1983

27 RTrad 25m
48 *** Brown Corduroy Trousers

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

FA: Kim Carrigan., 1982

28Trad 25m
49 ** Barbed-wire Canoe

Absolutely brilliant climbing, although possibly one of the most sustained routes here. Brilliant bridging up the open-book corner to the flake at the top.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

25Trad 27m
50 * Chook Fear

Bridging, layaways and levitation are all required to get up this imposing, blank corner. At the top, step R to the tree. An Olympic rhythmic gymnast may be able to bridge across to WO; as for normal people, attempting this could destroy more than just your pants!

FA: Charlie Creese, 1981

26Trad 20m
51 ** Wild One

A very strenuous outing and an excellent exponent of flared hand jamming. The start of this route is quite challenging. Step R into the climb after going up CF for a few moves. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the top. Stepping on your rope and gear back be a bit of a hassle. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route as described.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1978

24Trad 20m
52 * Wild One Direct Start

Direct start to WO is very bouldery and goes up the diabolical tendon pulverising micro seam for a few meters before joining WO.

26Trad 5m
53 *** Cock Corner

This pump fest provides some of the best and most sustained crack climbing on the cliff. Blast up the unrelenting crack in the steep corner. Layaway a cruxy move at 2/3rd height, and then easily to the top.

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

21Trad 30m
54 ** I'm a Mop

Very nice! From the ledge at 2/3 height on CC, step R onto the arete. Super stylish moves and exposure past a bolt , and then into a small cracked corner at the top.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps., 1984

21Mixed 8m, 1
55 ** Stonkers and Steroids

The direct start to IAM. Stick clip the first bolt, and step out to the arete from thee start of 'Cock Corner'. Very thin and technical climbing up the arete past 4 bolts, finish up 'I'm a Mop'.

FA: John Pearson, 1988

25Mixed 30m, 4
56 *** Cock Crack / Artificial Aura

Marked y the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born! Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White., 1974

20Trad 38m
57 ** Satans Smokestack

The horrific thrutch up the desperate start of this route is no fun at all. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars! Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows., 1968

16Trad 40m
58 *** Infinity

A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing.

FA: Ross Allen, Rick White., 1970

19Trad 40m
59 Infinity Variant Finish

From the start of the diagonal on Infinity, step L up the face past 1 bolt. A scary and atmospheric little route.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rick White, 1982

22Mixed 10m, 1
60 Equality

Hard and committing. Start up the same line as for Infinity. Continue up to a ledge past a grunty fist crack. Suck in the big ones, attach your kamikaze head band, and thrash (screaming for glory) up the blank bulge with greasy little holds making life really interesting. There is no mention of gear here, because there is not much to be found. Whimper with joy and relief when the crack finally opens up for better gear and easier moves to the top.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

22Trad 40m
61 *** Lonely Teardrops

Stunning quality, an absolute classic. Start on the ledge above and R of the start to Infinity. Steep jamming and locking leads to a pronounced crux rounding the bulge. Great gear, a little spaced at the crux, but completely bombproof. Finish easily up to the Infinity chains.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Dave Moss, 1979

22Trad 22m
62 * Quietly Superior

Originally named Crystal Blue Persuasion, Rob S. claims that the climb was stolen from under his nose... Buy him a beer for the full tragic tale! Regardless of that, the climbing is excellent, with the gear being very good, but a little fiddly to place in spots. Aliens and RPs help a lot. Brilliant bridging and chimney moves up the orange corner to the R of LTD.

FA: Marty Beare, 1980

24Trad 20m
63 Rudys Got New Shoes 23Trad
64 Jigsaw

An absolutely brutal start up the narrow V-groove splitting the pillar to the L of WC. From here easily up to the level of WC ledge. Follow up a short hard corner, with the last moves at the top keeping things interesting.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1971

19Trad 35m
65 ?

Start up W.C. until it is possible to step left into the chimney. Up this onto the pillar and straight up the hand crack to a trad placed belay below the 2nd pitch of W.C.

15Trad 14m
66 Witches Cauldron Pitch 1

start marked 'WC'. A hundred ways to get up this twin cracked, 3 sided chimney! Great beginner lead, with lots of bomber gear placements and good stances. A better access pitch to 'Plume Ledge' than SAW.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1969

12Trad 12m
67 Witches Cauldron Pitch 2

The way the route originally finished. Start on the L of Plume Ledge. A brutal grunt up the horribly tight body chimney directly above pitch 1. There is not a lot of gear but it doesn't matter as you are so stuck in this thing that it would be very hard to come out anyway! A must do for all aspiring guardians of Frog ethics!

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1969

12Trad 18m
68 Quick

Don't fall on this extremely under protected route... gravity will definitely win! Up Harlot for a move or two, then up the arete. Really classy moves, and quite enjoyable climbing. It's a pity the piton used on the first ascent didn't stay in! Some pro can be found in the crack around on the L face, but it won't help much if you fall near the top.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Derek Sheldon, 1976

20 RTrad 13m
69 Harlot

A goo and technical boulder problem to a stance at 3m. It's best to jump off here but if you must, strap on some knee pads and thrash for glory up the wide crack above.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett, 1969

18Trad 12m
70 Witches Covert

A good start up the 2 cracks R of Harlot up to a ledge. Negotiate the overhanging hand crack to the top chimney. The top is ugly, loose and unavoidable, but thankfully it is also very short.

FA: Rick White, 1970

18Trad 12m
71 * Humility

A classic one-move wonder, the face R of WC. Start off the ledge on the R, small wires providing excellent pro. Wobble up on thin and balancy moves until a jug on the L arete comes to hand. Easily up the line past a piton (hidden from view) to a tricky little mantle move at the ledge. Easily up to Plume ledge.

FA: Ross Allen, 1970

19Trad 15m
72 * Humility (Left Variant) / Humility LHV 17Trad 10m
73 Psychedelic Apricot

A hard lead for a beginner, above a big ledge. Lay back the corner to the ledge. Easily to the top. A number 5 cam is essential to keep this lead safe.

FA: Bob Gowan., 1969

14Trad 15m
74 Rest Area Ahead

A one move special, and a soft touch at the grade. Start at the obvious crack in the corner R of Humility. Up this with excellent protection to a ledge. Bumble easily to the top as for PA.

FA: Simon Uren, 1981

15Trad 10m
75 Saturday Afternoon Walk

The easiest climb on the cliff. Wander up the line of least resistance to the right of RAA. Good gear makes this a great climb for beginners to start leading. It's also a good way to get to Plume Ledge quickly.

FA: Ron Collett (free solo)., 1969

6Trad 15m
76 * Chocolate Watch Band

Great climbing up the pillar bisected by an ever widening crack. The crux is near the top, coming out of a cave into a fist jam section. Easily up and L to Plume Ledge.

FA: Rick White, Rod Bolton., 1969

17Trad 17m
77 ** Nosy Business

Up the blunt arete to the R of CW. Delicate and strenuous moves past 2 bolts. Veer L here with much difficulty and moaning to put a runner in CW to keep things sane. Continue up past 2 more bolts to the top.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Rod Young, 1983

23Trad 20m
78 *** Gladiator

An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here.

FA: Chris Peisker, 1975

18Trad 17m
79 Christian

A gruntologist's dream. Clang your hexes for joy and release a tribal yelp before plunging head first into this disgusting knee and elbow destroying body chimney. You should really shoot yourself if you are seriously considering leading this route!

FA: Ross Allen, Ian Cameron, Rick White, 1975

16Trad 17m

Plume Ledge

7 Routes start from Plume Ledge. The first two routes "Bitching and Back-Stabbing" & "Midnight Lightning", start to the left of "Witches Cauldron pitch 2". All the others start to the right.

The easiest way to access the ledge is by climbing either 'Witches Cauldron' or 'Saturday Afternoon Walk'.

80 * Bitching and Back Stabbing

Start on the far L side of the little ledge of ML. Move up the front of the detached pillar passing 2 bolts on the way. Not too bad.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Chris Frost, Darren Holloway, 1988

24Mixed 12m, 2
81 * Midnight Lightning

The dark corner capped by a small triangular rooflet really deserves to be more popular. Difficult and bold climbing on good pro' leads to a tough move around the roof. A tough finger crack finishes off this classy route.

FA: Joe Lynch, Rob Staszewski, 1981

23Trad 15m
82 ** Inhibition

Hard and grunty climbing on one of the sexiest looking aretes to be found. Start off the little ledge above WC then slap, crimp and wobble your way up past one carrot bolt and 2 FHs to the top. Avoid the temptation to grovel off L and you will be rewarded with some beautiful exit moves!

FA: John Pearson (early's), 1990

26Mixed 15m, 3
83 * Instant Karma

Bold and risky face climbing. Start 1.5m L of ME. Up a short crack to the rest at a rooflet. Flail up the desperate face through the bulge with not a whole lot of protection! The upper wall is a little easier and quite classy, although you might be such a jibbering mess that you don't remember.

FA: Scott Camps, 1984

24Trad 25m
84 Midnight Express

Innocently evil! This fine-looking hand crack very quickly turns into a fiendish off-width.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Thomas, 1973

19Trad 23m
85 Psychedelic Apricot Pitch Two

Although the climbing is actually quite good, the rock on this orange corner at half height is loose, hollow and quite dangerous on the lead.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron (some aid)

19Trad 25m
86 *** Plume

From the right side of 'Plume Ledge' (facing the cliff) Climb the obvious hand crack infront of a forked tree (belay). Great jamming up to a diagonal traverse right to a jug, then up the thinning crack trending slightly left on face holds to top mantle.

FA: Fred From, 1976

19Trad 25m

Faki Ledge

The next four climbs are on Faki Ledge. To reach this ledge, go up the 5m climb in the corner R of Plume called "That's not a Twelve".

87 ** Termination

Brilliant face climbing up the thin face on the far L of the ledge. Despite appearances, protection is excellent throughout the whole climb, and it is a must do at the grade.

FA: Fred From, 1976

20Trad 18m
88 * Integrated Injection Logic

The twin crack system capped by a small roof to the L of Faki. A bumble up the start of this route will hopefully not dull the senses. Some tricky moves above adequate but slightly spaced protection see a good rest come to hand below the roof. Hand traverse L under the roof and around onto the face (crux). Strenuous and sustained moves to the top are sure to bring a smile to your face.

FA: Fred From, 1976

16Trad 15m
89 * Faki

The best 14 here! The brilliant L facing corner is an excellent introduction to sustained bridging and jamming. From the ledge, up the line of least resistance R to the top. Belay using trees and whatever natural gear comes to hand. From the belay, walk about 10m R (facing from the cliff), and you will find the rap chain above Plume.

FA: Fred From (solo), 1976

14Trad 13m
90 Safe as Milk

Bold and strenuous climbing with not much in the way of good protection! Start at the crack just R of Faki on brilliant thin hand jamming. Fron here, pack your spare undies, move up the arete for a move or two, and then R and up through the bulge! Although there is adequate pro (just), it is still a very serious proposition.

FA: Marty Beare, Stuart Camps, 1983

22 RTrad 15m
91 *** Old Guard

Brilliant climbing up the dark corner to the R of Christian. Up easily for 7m to a stance. Release a blood-curdling howl and tear up the hard lay back line to the top line a frenzied madman! Technical jamming and layback sequences provide thoroughly absorbing and sustained movement all the way. Milk the rest at half height, as that's all you get. From the ledge at the top, one hard move onto the wall and you can step L onto Plume Ledge. Finish here, or get extra "old school points" by thrashing up the final wide groove above.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Marty Beare, 1978

22Trad 40m
92 Keed Spills

A better variant finish for OG. At the start of the last groove on OG, step R and climbing the thin crack up the face. Be careful as the first few moves are completely unprotected and you could be reduced to a whimpering mess with the technical and exposed moves above.

FA: Fred From, Mark Morwood, 1981

20Trad 15m
93 Perversion

Up the wall to the R of OG. Not done very often. Up the initial corner, which is quite technical and interesting. Rest at the ledge and then blast up the thin seam past 2 ancient pitons. Not the best route around.

FA: Marty Beare, 1983

23Trad 40m
94 Nymphets Crack

Crappy. Start at the body crack about 8m R of OG. Difficult moves up an even more difficult crack leads to a rest at a tree. Kepp plugging away, saving energy for the final onslaught in the last moves!

FA: Joe Lynch, 1981

19Trad 32m
95 ** Satyricon

This long-neglected corner offers brilliant bridging and jamming up a long sustained line! Bridge up the initial corners to the cave at 2/3rd height. A hard move around this to the top, and many celebration beers at the "Doogs". Rap chains on the pillar.

FA: Kevin Pearl, Fred From, 1978

20Trad 30m
96 O Lucky Man

Put a high runner the start of Satyricon, then step R onto the arete and up. Pass 2 very lonely and dodgy looking pitons, then climb the wall above.

FA: Gordon Bieske, Alan (Sunshine) Wilkie, 1983

21Trad 12m
97 ** Unknown Bolt Fest

No one knows much about this route... although it may have a name that involves kinky acts by a pool. The arete left of CC is excellent, although quite dangerous if lead straight off the ledge. My assumption is that the original ascent went up Satyricon and stepped R at the jug and bolt! This makes for a brilliant climb. Continue up the arete past 3 more bolts and a small cam or nut placement.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Evan Bieske ('s), 1990

23Mixed 25m, 3
98 Chunder Crack

This route is very well named, and a contender for the greatest sandbag ever at the original grade of 15! If you must subject yourself to this torment, go up the top of the pillar R of OLM. Climb up the horrible off-width, which is also very strenuous and fiddly to protect.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows, 1968

15Trad 30m
99 Bag the Nazi

The bolted arete starts up CC for about 5m, and then steps out. It is really good, however the bottom section features from brittle rock. Up past the fixed hangers, trending slightly R, to eventually finish at the chains of SA.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Evan Bieske ('s), 1990

23Trad 25m
100 * Juggernaut

Even whispering the name of this route has struck panic and fear into the heart of many aspiring leader. Up the ever widening off-width to the L of SA. Specially cut lengths of pipe were originally used to protect this visionary route. Big Bros and large cams (and plenty of them) should keep the Grim Reaper at bay nowadays! Jeans and a footy jersey would be a handy addition to the rack of any would be ascentionist.

FA: Ted Cais, Rick White, 1974

21Trad 30m

Warlock Ledge

The next eight routes start from this Ledge. The best of those is 'Sorcerer's Apprentice' and 'Yankee Go Home'.

Access this ledge by scrambling up left from the start of Thor.

101 *** Sorcerers Apprentice

Classic crack climbing, an excellent example of jamming at Frog. Start at the obvious crack on the far L of Warlock Ledge. A tricky start to get established in the crack (watch out for the loose rock), and then magnificent jamming up the line. Finish at the ledge and rap chains above.

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

19Trad 30m
102 *** Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles

A very popular route, and deservedly so. Up the classic line on superb finger locks and jams to an easy but grotty chimney finish.

FA: Henry Barber, John Fantini, 1975

20Trad 27m
103 ** Satsang

Variant finish to 'Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles' and by far the better way to go. Avoid the final chimney by stepping onto the R face and up past a bolt. Great exposure and brilliant crimpers make this the preferred way to go!

FA: Scott Camps, 1985

22Mixed 5m, 1
104 *** Yankee Go Home

Simply amazing finger locking up the line that bisects the blank wall L of Warlock. There are 2 very distinct cruxes on this thoroughly enjoyable and sustained outing. Easier moves up the final chimney to fnish at the rap chain. A 60m rope will get you back down in style.

FA: Henry Barber., 1975

22Trad 26m
105 ** Warlock

The direct start up the off-balance and diabolically smooth start goes at 21. To avoid this abuse of your body, you can go up YGH for a move or two, and then step across to the ledge. Up the twin crack system, with the final moves around the huge overhung chock stone being an absolute show stopper! The FFA details are shrouded in mystery, however Rick White, Chris Meadows and Mike Meadows climbed the line with some points of aid in 1969.

FFA: unknown.

FA: Mike Meadows with some aid in, 1969

18Trad 26m
106 ** Warlock DS

Direct start to Warlock.

21Trad 26m
107 ** Day of the Jackal

You will need to eat your spinach for this one! Two ropes are the key to success on this exposed and wandering route. Layaway the arete R of Warlock and up delicately to a stance. Up to the thin orange corner capped by a roof. Step R just before the roof, up, and gain a wobbling stance on the left wall. Control your leg's desire to impersonate Elvis, and climb L up the exposed and steep face towards the hanging flake. Flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

FA: Jeff Lamb, Marty Beare, Joe Lynch, Dave Moss, 1980

23Trad 28m
108 Day of the Porcupine

A short little variation of DOTJ. Instead of climbing the short organge corner, climb the R underside of the ear shape that makes the R wall of the corner. Not much better, and pretty contrived.

FA: Even Bieske, Paul Hoskins, Dave Moss., 1983

20Trad 5m
109 *** Thor

Very nice! Step in from the left, and boulder R to the jug. From here, climb the beautiful line and finger crack to a stance below a corner. This corner provides beatiful positions and stances, and finishes up an easier crack to the top.

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

19Trad 30m
110 *** Odin

A complete classic, this climb used to be the test piece for all budding rock gods. Up the initial orange crack system to a stance below the "magic block". A tricky move above this into a narrow groove. The hand and fist crack above keeps you puffing the whole way! Hard for the grade.

FA: Barry Overs, Rick White, 1971

20Trad 30m
111 *** The Guns of Navaronne

Very photogenic climbing up the only line here that has anything close to a roof! Up the initial blank corner with loads of class to a rest at the "magic block". Fire up and hand traverse R into the void! A hand to fist-sized cam at the lip keeps things sane. Spicy moves above to the top.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Allen, 1979

23Trad 30m
112 The Guns of Navaronne Direct Variant

Small, short and horrifically desperate. If you're keen for a change of scene, however, and have recently made out your will, this could be the one for you. Go straight through the roof, without going into Odin. Levitation abilities may be handy.

24Trad 4m
113 The Guns of Navaronne Variant Finish

A bit silly and contrived, I think the original is better. Once above the roof, step back and L and up the arete past a bolt and a piton, finishing up Odin.

21Trad 8m
114 ** Decade

This route was climbed on the 10th anniversary of the discovery of Frog. The gear is excellent but spacious; however, stopping to place it makes things a lot more exciting! Up the obvious line R of TGON featuring very technical face and crack climbing moves to the stance. Follow a thin seam as the difficulties gradually ease to the top.

FA: Greg Child, Rick White., 1978

22Trad 30m
115 ** Androcles

The dark, smooth corner to the L of If is a direct start. Up this on very thin gear with no real worthwhile pro. Continue as for If. A serious proposition for those just leading at the grade.

FA: Kevin Pearl., 1979

21 RTrad 10m
116 * If

Confused climbing but worth a visit. Blast up the initial cracked arete on shaky RP's (or just solo it) to a stance in a cave and a very old piton. Step L into the corner system and up this line with good gear and one more equally crappy piton. The climbing eases off towards the top.

FA: Ross Allen, Rick White, 1978

17Trad 30m
117 Bombs Over British Airways

Up If to the first piton. From here, go up the orange corner to the roof, pulling round this and onto a stance on a huge jug. Place a high runner in If, say goodbye to your family, and move R and up the face on thin and "delicate" holds.

FA: Paul Hoskins., 1983

24 RTrad 30m
118 *** Short Order

An absolute classic test piece, locking and jamming problem. A hard start gains a stance at 2m. From here, climb the unrelenting corner with excellent gear, stances and locks. Keep plugging and moving like a punch-drunk boxer, as the lactic acid build-up ever so surely creeps up on you. There are just enough stances and holds to keep you from being reduced to a whimpering mess. A rap chain can be found in the tree about 6m above the first ledge as you top out.

FA: Henry Barber, John Fantini, 1975

20Trad 30m
119 Clean Wholesome Outdoor Fresh-air Family-entertainment Science-fiction Superman Physics

A R to L girdle, but fun for a change of scenery and direction! Up SO for 5m, then step L to the 1st piton of If. Edge across Decade, and bridge with much trepidation into Odin level with the large jug and flake. Across and up into Thor, as far as the overhang, then traverse onto the Warlock Ledge and off.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

20Trad 50m
120 Shocking Blue

Not pleasant. Up the initial fist crack to a horror blank corner above the fig.

FA: Fred From, 1978

19Trad 25m
121 Saffron Sun

FA: Scott Camps

Trad
122 * Battered Son

Classy arete and face climbing L of Saffron Crack. Really good climbing, unfortunately there is a very hard clip at the bolt! 3 bolts lead the way to the top.

FA: Scott Camps ('s), 1980

23Trad 20m
123 Saffron Crack

The start of this climb features a R-leaning Off-width problem that is both well protected and a great test of your crack-climbing abilities. Step into the corner and chimney of EB. Up with ease and good movement to the top.

FA: Rick White, Ron Collett., 1970

18Trad 40m
124 Electric Banana

Not a mind-blowing affair but worth a lap! Start up the ordinary groove and face, then finish up the easy chimney.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows., 1969

16Trad 40m
125 *** Smoked Banana

Classic Frog climbing. Up the initial twin cracks with some difficulty to a ledge. Step L and up the single crack to a stance under a daunting roof. Sling the chock stone on the R in the wide crack, swallow hard and swing out and up the ladder of chock stones with bowel-quivering exposure! Rest your nerves in the body crack for a moment, travel into the depths of the crack, then squeeze up for a move or two until it is possible to step out onto the arete and face. Easily to the top.

FA: Rick White, Greg Sheard, 1968

17Trad 40m
126 * Understanding

The variant finish to SB is a very classy little outing. Climb up SB to the overhang. Take a large breath, step L up and around the overhang to a bolt. Follow the line to the arete and up a thin crack to the top.

FA: Stuart Camps, Russell Chudleigh., 1985

22Trad 40m
127 Oscillating Pinapple

Total crap. A crappy little line that is usually done as a variant start to SB. Not worth the trip. FA Unknown (probably due to shame)

FA: Unknown, 2000

17Trad 10m
128 Vegetation Row

Not the best. After about 20m of vine-filled loose dirt and crap, you will find about 15m of actual climbing. You could have more fun by staying at the bottom of the cliff and shoving sticks under your fingernails!

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1972

18 RTrad 37m
129 * Cheshire Cat

Up the ledge left of VITS. Face climbing using the thin crack for protection. Very small gear required to protect the crux. At around 3/4 height climb right into the finish of Voices.

FFA: Ross Ferguson Bill Strachan, 2008

FA: 2008

24Trad 20m
130 *** Voices in the Sky

Fantastic climbing and superb positions can be found the whole way up this thin and daunting line. Despite appearances, brilliant protection in the form of small wires and micro cams can be found the whole way.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Kevin Lindorff (yoyo), 1979

25Trad 32m
131 ** Magical Mystery Tour

Classic crack climbing. Start at the finger crack as it continues to widen the whole way up the route. Don't be fooled by the wide nature of the top, although big gear is essential to protect this route (#4 and #4.5 BD cams won't go astray), you are able to bridge past almost all of the wide thrashing!

FA: Rick White, Ross Allen (yoyo)., 1969

19Trad 38m
132 Squeaky Leather

A good variant to MMT. Start up MMT, and step R at an old piton onto the arete at 10m. Directly up the arete past more bolts to the top.

FA: Tony Barten, Craig Kentwell, Mick Peck., 1988

22Trad 38m
133 ** The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine

Brilliant! Start up the off-width to a ledge at 4m. Alternatively, you can start up HG and then step L at this ledge. From there up the awesome finger crack with excellent face holds and locks to a thin crux at 2/4 height. From there, up the hand and fist crack to a ledge. Either rap off the small tree, or go up the broken corner at the back and rap off the MMT chains (single 60m rope on stretch).

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

20Trad 25m
134 * Holy Grail

This climb has some really nice moves on it. Unfortunately, it also has a huge loose boot-shaped rock at 1/2 height. The loose rock and poor pro continues above this. Flop onto the same ledge as for TGBBGPM. Although it looks like a classic, there are far better options on either side!

FA: Matt Taylor, 1975

20 RTrad 25m
135 Holy Grail Direct Finish

Instead of flopping onto the ledge with quiet relief, continue up the depressingly blank corner for another 15m to the top. Very small gear and one very old piton pretend to offer adequate protection.

FA: Joe Lynch, Murray Ball, Rob Staszewski., 1983

22 RTrad 15m
136 *** The One That Got Away

Absolutely classic, although your calves will hate you for your effort! So named because Barber somehow managed to miss this fine line on his "tick every classic in sight" tour of 75. Blast up the long corner with superb gear, crack and bridging moves throughout the entire climb. Top out on Conquistador ledge. Rap chains await, however you will need two ropes to get to the bottom.

FA: Nic Taylor., 1976

21Trad 42m
137 * Bitter and Twisted

A nice variant finish to TOTGA, but it simply isn't as good as the others. Climb about half way up TOTGA, then step R (following a seam) to a bolt on the wall. Continue out R and up the arete passing another bolt. Easily to the top.

FA: Darren Holloway, 1988

22Trad 45m
138 *** Conquistador

If there is one route that simply must be done at Frog... this is it! Possibly the most magnificent outing at the grade ever! Jam with joy up the initial crack section to a stance at half height. From here, a hard move on finger locks in an overhanging section brings the world's mos welcome jugs. Motor up the classy finish with moves that would make anyone look stylish! Rap chains can be found on the ledge.

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

21Trad 45m
139 *** Devils Dihedral

This daunting line is simply magnificent. Up the twin cracks on locks and jams that would leave a poet short for words. From here, continue up to where the cracks merge to form a single, steep, fingers to fists crack. A hard move to the ledge provides a classic sting in the tail.

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

20Trad 45m
140 *** Deliverance

The 3rd of an unsurpassable trio. A desperate start on pin scars, locks, friction and prayer sees you established in this daunting corner. Continue up this monster pump fest with every move just as good as the last. Save some energy for the last few moves... it has sent more than one flailing would-be ascentionist plummeting into space. Some of the best gear at Frog keeps this climb sane.

FA: Henry Barber, 1975

23Trad 45m
141 ** Petulance

Start as for Tantrum. Climb up about 8m and step L onto the arete. Follow the line of bolts to the top featuring gut-wrenching exposure, and quite classy arete climbing. Some parties start up Deliverance instead.

FA: Chris Frost

26Trad 45m
142 ** Tantrum

Overgrown and overshadowed by its company it received little attention for years. A recent cleaning and addition of a piton down low (it was originally led with a pre-placed RP) has made it a more attractive proposition. Bridge up tree to get piton and an RP. Thin bouldery moves lead to very enjoyable and friendly climbing above.

FA: Tobin Sorenson, John Aleen, 1979

25 RTrad 45m
143 Brain Death

Crap. A desperate little corner up the L side of the pillar that Hell's Angel starts off. Barely adequate pro and terrifying moves earned this one the coveted "never ever do again" award.

FA: Joe Lynch, 1981

23Trad 10m
144 Hells Angel

Start off the ledge between Brain Death and Hello Sailor. This is the L of the 3 obvious lines. Start up the long corver with a feisty little move at 4m. Blast for glory all the way to the top, watching for loose rock on the way. Natural anchors and chains at the top, the easiest way to get off is to rap off the chains: 2 ropes are required. The chains are hard to find; look around and they will appear.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1971

18Trad 40m
145 * Angel Rider

The only real way to go. Start up HA to where it is possible to branch off R at about 15m. Climb up the fantastic corner to a bowel-quivering finish. Descend as for HA.

FA: Philip Waters, Scott Camps, Steve Mansfield., 1984

18Trad 40m
146 * Easy Rider

Not as good as the previous 2 routes. Although the actual moves are fantastic, there are far too many loose blocks and holds to make this climb enjoyable. Dodgy pro can also be found in abundance; if you're into that stuff, you should love it!

FA: Trevor Gynther, 1979

20 RTrad 40m

Baby Staysharp Pillar

Directly below 'Gone and forgotten' is a small detached pillar. The routes on this pillar are on the back side.

There are two climbs on this pillar worth mentioning, Myopia (barely acceptable) and 'Baby Staysharp'. There are another three solo climbs on the downhill side of the pillar, all done by 'Kevin Pearl', none worth the effort.

147 Myopia

A real waste of 2 bolts. Start up the same arete as BS. Clip the first bolt of BS, then up the poxy little line to another bolt. Step R and get off as soon as you can.

FA: Andrew Barry, 1984

19Sport 5m
148 Baby Staysharp

A fun little climb whose holds definitely live up to their name. Start at the fixed hanger on the arete, then step out L passing another FH on the way up. Top out easily to the 2-bolt anchor. Rap or solo off the back to get down.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Andrew Barry, 1983

23Sport 7m, 2

Past Baby Staysharp Pillar

Back up to the main wall.

149 Macraderma

This climb should never have existed. Directly below HS is a large hole in the ground. If you are totally bored, and have run out of pencils to poke in your eyes, lower into this pit of despair and climb back out. Poor protection completes this climb's classy credentials! This climb quite often gets used for what God clearly first intended... as a toilet. Proceed at your own risk.

FA: Paul Caffyn, Ian Cameron, Rick White, 1969

17Trad 30m
150 Hello Sailor

Used to be graded 18, so it was the scene of many a bruised and battered ego. Start up the initial corner to a gruntologist's fantasy move. Finish with much style to the top. To get off, wander down R (facing the cliff) to the rap chains above Hollywood Rattlesnake.

FA: Rick McGregor, 1976

18Trad 20m
151 Bongo Gongo Wasto Ergo Sum

Hard! Up the desperately blank corner to a piton that looks like it was placed about the time that Capt. James Cook landed. Continue up with very thin protection to a bolt at 1/2 height. Slightly easier climbing to the top... but not much.

FA: Simon Vallings, Andy Barker, RUssel Chudleigh, 1984

25 RTrad 20m
152 ** The Last Ungreat

Serious climbing in an exposed and photogenic position. Start directly above BGWES, climbing the R side of the pillar that Angel Rider finishes on. Up the crack, then some very hard moves past the bolt to the top. Magnificent, but terrifying. Get off as for AR.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1984

24Trad 15m
153 ** Gone and Forgotten

A very impressive onsight. Up the thin seam that splits the face 2m R of BGWES. Tendon-rupturing moves above RPs see you to a hard move at 4m. Continue up the line with classic moves and even better gear the whole way.

FA: Chris Shepherd, 1982

24Trad 20m
154 ** Suicide City

This climb features the quirky little Frog grading habit that the first 5 moves don't count when finding the grade. The moves off the ground are diabolical, and feel closer to 25. The stars and grade count only if you have a high runner pre-placed to protect this sequence. If not, remove all stars and add a few grades. The climbing after this is brilliant, and deserves to be more popular. However it is tricky, sustained and sometimes strenuous to protect on the lead.

FA: Rick McGregor. Re-established by Rob Staszewski., 1976

22Trad 20m
155 Genghis Khan

The horrible dark chimney to the R of SC. This climb is a disgusting grunt fest with no real worthwhile protection.

FA: Paul Caffyn, Sid Tanner, 1969

17 RTrad 20m
156 * Go-between

Desperate. Classy and unrelenting movement the whole way protected by shallow and small gear. Deserves to be done more often, but is quite solid and risky at the grade.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Fred From, 1979

23Trad 18m
157 * Hollywood Rattlesnake

A strenuous and rewarding test piece jamming problem. Brilliant gear and tricky finger locks see you to a good stance at 2/3 height. Finish easily. Rap off tree.

FA: Nic Taylor, Rick White, 1976

19Trad 18m
158 ** Out on a Limb

An excellent and absorbing climb. This climb relies more on balance and technique than power, and is essentially one big balance problem. The gear is good, despite appearances. A good lead head is essential.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Rick White., 1977

22Trad 18m
159 * Run With the Pack

this climb is desperate to protect in the first half, although barely adequate protection can be found. Levitate and bridge up the initial strenuous corner to a stance at 1/2 height. You can escape this craziness by going up BC for 5m and then stepping L. If you do this, the grade drops to 21. From this stance, blast up one of the most magnificent finger seams that Frog has to offer! A rap chain at the tree above sees you off.

FA: Rick White, Ian Thomas, 1976

21Trad 20m
160 * Bad Company

A classy little climb up the corner past a large tree at 2m. Fantastic protection and loads of climbing variety make this an absolute winner.

FA: Nic Taylor, John Hattink, 1977

15Trad 20m

Hollywood Rattlesnake Ledge

The next two routes are on the ledge above 'Hollywood Rattlesnake'.

161 Atomic Frog

Dangerous and crappy. The small face directly above the finish of HR. Wobble up the crappy wall on broken holds and dodgy pro. It looks good, but isn't.

FA: Scott Camps, Paul Grey, 1983

20 RTrad 20m
162 Sweet Transvestite

Yet more crap. The disgusting groove directly above OOAL. Why would you do this to yourself?

FA: Kevin Pearl, Ken McLean., 1978

19 RTrad 18m
163 * Jumbo Services Mrs Mills and the Electric Yellow Bums

A fun little top rope problem. Start off the top of the detached pillar that marks the half way point of micron. Straight up on the poorly protected (ie bounce off the ledge) wall, on this holds. Finish as for Micro. Rap chains can be found at this tree.

FA: Mike Woodrow, Darren Holloway, Mark Holloway., 1985

17Trad 20m
164 ** Micron

The best 16 at the crag. Start up the chimney with technical bridging to a rest on the top of the semi-detached pillar. Step onto the R face and follow the line up to the top. Awesome climbing, bombproof gear and brilliant moves! A rap chain can be found at the tree.

FA: Unknown, 2000

17Trad 20m
165 ** Elastic RURP

One of the most popular middle grade routes on the cliff, and deservedly so. The splitter crack up the face to the R of Micron. This route offers amazing gear, fantastic movement and some hair-raising moments thrown in for free! Rap as for Micron.

FA: Rick White, Barry Overs, 1971

18Trad 20m
166 * Separator

Very good climbing, but a little tricy to protect at the crux. Up ER for 3m to the cave. Step R and follow the diagonal to the arete. Up this on fantastic rock to finish up the wide crack as for Catharsis Variant Finish.

FA: Rob Staszewski, Joe Lynch, 1981

23Trad 20m
167 * Separator Direct Start

This improbable arete is apparently still waiting to be lead ground up (pure style). Levitate up the arete using friction, glue, and anything else you can get your hands on to complete the extremely technical moves that are required to finish this route. You can get some form of protection by placing a high runner in Catharsis. Join the original line where the diagonal meets the arete.

FA: Kim Carrigan, Dave Fearnley, 1982

25 RTrad 10m
168 ** Catharsis

The nice handcrack leading to a ledge and offwidth to the right of Elastic Rurp. Big gear essential if you don't want to run it out above the ledge and manky old pin. The 'elegant solution' to the offwidth mentioned in Andy Martin's description probably involves some kind of prancing about on edges like a sport climber. This sort of thing can be avoided with good old fashioned thrutching and struggling.

FA: Ted Cais, Ian Thomas, 1973

20Trad 20m
169 Catharsis Variant Finish

Crap. Blast up one off-width, and then, just as it gets good, traverse L at a grotty horizontal to yet another off-width! No real quality movement can be found on this route.

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl, 1978

19Trad 7m
170 Pixel Princess / Pixelated Princess

Not too bad. A fiery start up the dark corner L of FAFF quickly succumbs to an easy finish. Rap chains at the top.

FA: Pete Schmidt, Jannette Hull, 2003

15Trad 15m
171 ** Footloose and Falling Free

Good face climbing up the broken orange wall. Excellent protection and moves abound, although it would be a lot better if it were longer. Scramble off the ledge to the R. Addition: If you prefer not to try the scramble it is possible to rap off the big boulder. Just be sure to do a test pull.

FA: Kevin Pearl, 1979

20Trad 11m
172 Half-dazed and Patched Pants

Directly above FAFF is another headwall. Start up the R side of this to the first bolt. Step gingerly around the arete to the 2nd bolt. Easily to the top. Well worth the outing. Rap from the tree. Rob Staszewski has lead this route without the bolts... but most people are just not that hard, and choose to clip them!

FA: Richard Henderson, Scott Camps., 1986

21Trad 18m
173 Bay Play

The small line just R of FAFF. Climb the line on excellent gear the whole way. Don't hang around or your arms will be reduced to a mass of pain and lactic acid.

FA: Unknown (solo), 2000

18Trad 10m
174 Fast Eddie

This climb is loads of fun! Up to a hard move getting around the small rooflet. From here, climb on fantastic jams to a ledge. Finish here on natural anchors. Alternatively, you can climb the very easy corner at the back of this ledge for a further 5m, and you will come across the rap chains attached to the large tree directly above.

FA: Rick White, Dave Moss, 1980

18Trad 15m
175 Straight Man's Fear

This climb is the 4th great climb of its grade in the area, and probably the best. Up RF for a move or two (you will soon forget this misery), and then step L into the thin crack on the L face. From here, rock poetry follows for the rest of the route. Finish as for FE.

FA: Dave Moss, Rick White, 1980

18Trad 13m
176 Rhyolite Fruit

A completely disgusting pile of crap that is a blemish on the face of Frog. The large chimney formed by the huge detached pillar being pushed out by the massive chock stone above. Even break-stroking, flannel-wearing, thrutch masters think twice before choosing to climb this disgusting chimney.

FA: Barry Overs, Steve Bell, 1969

11 RTrad 13m
177 That's Rat!

More rubbish. Start at the crack about 1m R of RF. Trying not to stray onto a more sensible line. At 1/2 height, step R onto the face, forget the run out and climb up on good holds. A jug, gear and sanity can all be found at the stance near the top.

FA: Stuart Camps, Paul Grey, 1983

23 RTrad 15m

Straight Man's Fear Ledge

Next two routes are located on the ledge above 'Straight Man's Fear'.

178 Face Facts

Directly above SMF is a small orange wall capped by a tiny roof. Go directly up this on friable flakes and dodgy gear. Gear can be placed in the seam on the L to keep life sane. One cool move at the roof is all that recommends this little climb.

FA: Scott Camps, Paul Grey, 1983

22Trad 7m
179 Wasp Nest / Wasp

Short crack above 'Rhyolite Fruit'.

FA: Ross Allen, 1970

16 to 17Trad 6m
180 Just Made It into the Guide

It should have stayed out. Climb the obvious crappy little groove. It's not long enough to even properly chastise yourself for getting on this pile of crap.

FA: Dave Moss, Paul Hoskins, 1983

17Trad 5m
181 Image of the Nat

This short arete starts opposite a large tree about 8m before the track turns L. Quite fun, but not a lot of gear.

FA: Scott Camps, Garry Glover., 1983

17 RTrad 8m
182 Color Me Dead

Starts about 6m R of IOTN, just before the track veers L. Up a crappy, grunty short crack to the arete. Up this past 1 bolt. Not very good.

FA: Richard Henderson, Scott Camps., 1986

19Mixed 9m, 1
183 Popping Pillars

The furthest R arete on this pillar is a desperate solo problem. Up through a tiny roof, and then a little easier to the top.

FA: Robbie Allen (TR then free solo), 1983

21 RTrad 7m

Mr. Bojangles area

Ten (10) routes are scattered along the sloping hill side between 'Rhyolite Fruit' and the 'Oppenheimer's Monster Pillar'.

You can get to this area by scrambling up the ramp to the right of 'Rhyolite Fruit', and then along an indistinct path. The first four (4) routes are located about 30m to the right. Even further to the right about 50m or so you will locate Mr Bojangles Pillar.

184 * Little Running Bear

Good fun, although it's so short that it's over before you can really get into it. Go up the nice face crack on great locks and jams.

FA: Paul Hoskins., 1981

22Trad 7m
185 I Wish I Was in Dixie

Contrived and not as good as LRB. Up the R line on the same wall. The gear isn't the best either!

FA: John Middendorf, 1981

20Trad 7m
186 Oscar

This short, widening little crack can be found above the previous two routes. It is a waste of time and oxygen.

FA: Rick White, Lois Basham, Dave Moss, 1981

18Trad 8m
187 Frog Fart

A small little grotty corner. There are far better routes to do here, but it won't kill you,

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps., 1983

16Trad 9m
188 * Frog Art

Not bad! Climb the nice little face and finger crack to the R of Frog Fart.

FA: Scott Camps, Stuart Camps, 1983

15Trad 10m
189 Gully Bumble

The epitome of desperate new route seekers at work. Higher up in the gully in between FA and the 'Mr. Bojangles' pillar is a very short little orange pillar. Climb up the front of this past 1 bolt. This is not, by any stretch of the imagination, a great route.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps., 1983

20Mixed 8m, 1
190 * Mr. Bojangles

Well worth the trip. Start at the obvious cracked buttress that forks at about 6m. This classic jug and jam fest can go either way from there, the R variant probably slightly more popular. Both lines are equally challenging.

FA: Ted Cais and Ian Cameron

15Trad 15m
191 Mr Bojangles VF

Climb Mr Bojangles, at half height step left and finish up the hand crack.

14Trad 7m
192 Bits and Pieces

What a contrived waste of time. Go up the moss-laden slab to the R of MB on to a ledge. From there, go easily up a fun little pocketed wall to the finish. No worthwhile protection can be found in the bottom 2/3 of this route.

FA: Stuart Camps, 1983

19 RTrad 15m
193 Uriah Heep

The disgusting little crack on the R side of the same buttress. This climb is really grotty, and not much fun.

FA: Steve Bell, 1972

15Trad 12m
194 Mango

Further R you can find this short little orange corner hiding in the scree...the time you spend looking for it could be better spent, although the climbing isn't actually that bad.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

16Trad 8m

Ockerphillia Pillar

Next is a distinct pillar feature known as the 'Ockerphillia Pillar' which has a detached rock pillar on the downhill side with a large cave like cut away section. There is a thin tree growing in between the main pillar and detached pillars.

195 Short and Sweet

Very cruisy climbing, ideal for gear practice and beginners. Not, however, the most classy route to be found. Stop and belay at the large tree. Scramble easily off L, or rap.

FA: Ross Allen, Ben Whitehouse, 1969

9Trad 10m
196 Excreta

The chimney to the R of SAS. Completely disgusting, but good if you're into that kind of sick perverted thing.

FA: Rick White, Chris Meadows (solo), 1968

7 RTrad 15m
197 ** Ockerphillia

Extremely graceful and elegant climbing straight up the front of the pillar. There is no worthwhile protection to be found, and a fall would almost certainly be fatal. A truly daring and impressive effort.

FA: John Howard, Dave Fearnley, 1982

23 XTrad 23m
198 * Chemical Adrenalin

Start at Ockerphillia and immediately head R in a rising traverse past some bolts and mixed "mind pro". Very classy, and quite sustained.

FA: Andrew Smith, 2000

23Trad 24m
199 Ex

Climb up the opposite side of the chimney and tree.

FA: Rick White (solo), 1968

8 RTrad 18m

Past Ockerphillia Pillar

The next routes are located as you continue the cliff face around to the right past 'Ockerphillia Pillar'. This is the magnificent, orange and white pillar that you see as you walk around past 'Okerphilla Pillar'. There is some classic crack climbing to be offered in this area of the Frog Buttress.

200 Eating Gorillas

On the L side of the main cliff line is a striking orange and white pillar. This route goes up the far L side of it. Go up the body crack while practising your acceptance speech for the "Thrutch Masters" hall of fame.

FA: Stuart Camps (free solo), 1983

16Trad 22m
201 ** Oppenheimers Monster

Very, very classy climbing. Start up the pillar in between EG and Jockette. Go past 2 bolts, then veer slightly L to the top of the pillar. Excellent wires keep things sane. Rap chains can be found at the tree.

FA: Stuart Camps, (Scott Camps added the direct start), 1983

21Mixed 25m, 2
202 Jockette

A long and gruesome affair up the body crack on the R side of the pillar. Why people subject their bodies to this kind of torment, I don't know!

FA: Rick White, Ross Allen., 1970

15Trad 22m
203 Rack Attack

Really good, but one hell of a mission to find. The best way to get there is to rap in, although it can be quite hard to find. Short of that, blast up the vertical jungle in between Jockette and GATG for about 20m. Be sure to take your chainsaw and Agent Orange. From here, climb the beautiful crack that splits the orange face. Pass the tiny roof and follow the crack L to the top. A great little climb.

FA: Stuart Camps, Gordon Bieske., 1983

16Trad 12m
204 Green Noises

Not as good as RA, but definitely worth a go if you went to the hassle of getting up there. Start next to RA. On the R you will see a steep groove and arete. Blast up this on average protection to the top. A very airy finish awaits.

FA: Stuart Camps, Scott Camps, 1983

21Trad 18m
205 * Garbage and the Goddess

Very good climbing up the wall L of DW. Unfortunately this is also the home of numerous wasp nest, so check up high before you start. Wander up about 6m L of DW to an obvious crack. From here, clip the bolt, step out R on quite small holds and motor up the face. A small rest can be found at the piton. RPs will come in handy. It is possible to escape into DW near the top if you find wasps, or if things just get too insane!

FA: Stuart Camps, Gordon Bieske, 1983

23Mixed 28m, 1
206 Garbage and the Goddess Variant

Much easier than the original. From the first bolt, don't step R, but continue up the L arete until it is possible to join the original at the piton.

FA: Nyrie Dodd, Michael Collie, 1983

21Trad 28m
207 ** Devil's Wart

Simply brilliant middle grade climbing. Easily the best 15 at the cliff. Start at the obvious corner behind the large tree. Up this on brilliant holds and jams to a rest at the cave. Gulp hard, plug in yet more bombproof gear and blast out of the cave to some very airy positions. Wobble and bridge up the final corner to an easy top out. Chains can be found at the tree. There is some hollow rock on this climb, but you need to use any of it.

FA: Ross Allen, Ian Cameron, 1970

15Trad 27m
208 Cold Turkey

Absolutely brutal and unrelenting off-width climbing at its worst. Feels closer to 23. The chockstones mentioned in the Joe Lynch guide must have fallen out! Take big gear, elbow pads, grim determinations and a vomit bag. You can get off this disgusting pile of crap as for BB.

FA: Ross Allen, Rob Staszewski, 1970

17Trad 27m
209 Momentary Lapse Of Reason

The person who bolted this climb was clearly suffering from this syndrome when considering this pile of mank as a route. Contrived and finger shredding. Not a great route at all, but someone saw a blank wall and had to bolt the crap out of it. 3 bolts to the manky ledge....2 good moves! Rap as for BB.

FA: Darrin Carter

23Mixed 12m, 3
210 Bad Blues

Very nice. Up the inital crack systems to a ledge at 15m. Place a high runner in the back of the cave, then bridge airily out to the top. Natural anchors. The rap anchors for IM are over the pillar to your R, and very easy to get to.

FA: Steve Bell, Barry Overs, Rick White, 1970

15Trad 22m
211 Illusion

This climb offers a superb start featuring beautiful bridging and jamming, then disgusting, hex-clanging thrutch of a finish.

FA: Rick White, Ted Cais, 1970

15Trad 23m
212 * Illusion / Bad Blues Link Up / Bad Blues / Illusion Link Up

The only way to go. Start up the corner of Illusion. Just as you start getting into the off-width/bodycrack, step L around a nose with a horizontal break in it. From there, finish as for BB. Watch out for rope drag, twin ropes could be useful.

FA: Unknown, 2000

16Trad 22m
213 *** Iron Mandible

A classic test piece at the grade. Start up face from the ground, or step in from the L at 2m (not as good). It is a little tricky to protect in the first 4m, but look around and salvation will come to hand! From here, climb the superb thin hands-to-fist/off-width crack all the way to the ledge. Rap chains can be found here. Cams to 4.0 (BD) are essential if you don't like run outs!

FA: Rick White, 1972

18Trad 24m
214 * Neon Philharmonic

The original toe destroyer! Bridge and chimney up the thin twi crack system to a stance at 1/3rd height. From there, jam like crazy to a weird grunty move getting round a bottleneck. Flop onto the ledge, suck in lots of air and continue motoring up the corner system above like a crazed madman on speed. Easily to the top. Rap off trees to get back to the chains of IM.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron., 1969

17Trad 42m
215 * Neon Philharmonic Variant Finish

This climb has hosted a wasp nest for the last 5 years in a flake just around the R arete about 2m above the start. They are not little ants and as one stupid author found out, can't be tapped out of the flake that they are hiding in! From the ledge above the bottleneck, step R and up the arete for about 5m. Continue a little more R until you wind up in a crack. Follow this to the top. Great fun, excellent moves, super exposure...feisty wasps!

FA: Fred From, Kevin Pearl., 1979

17Trad 18m
216 * The Anti-From

Very bold climbing up a line with good small wires for protection. Start as for the NP Variant finish, but go up the blunt L arete, rather than going all the way out to the R arete. Levitate, wobble and pray your way up this to the top. The difficulties ease substantially at the end.

FA: Evan Bieske, 1983

21Trad 17m
217 * The Anti-From Direct

More scary than 15 horror films rolled into one. Bridge up the gap to a bolt. Wobble and crimp your way to a pocket (#3 RP needed). Up past a second bolt to a stance on the L arete. Follow the line of very shallow seams and cracks (yes, the gear is crap and the flakes brittle), to where the line merges with the original. Extremely bold and technically brilliant climbing by Kim Carrigan.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

24 RTrad 25m
218 * Serenade for Strings

Ballsy! A direct start for the variant finish of NP (can anyone else spell contrived?). Start up DO for about 8m until it is possible to step L on micro holds out to the arete. From here, excellent positions and movement are encountered as you climb up past 2 bolts. Continue to the variant finish of NP (remember the wasps!).

FA: Scott Camps, Richard Henderson, 1986

24Trad 35m
219 * Drop Out

Really good climbing that deserves to be done more often! Climb the tricky crack system to where it widens for a metre at about 1/2 height. Whack in a big cam and climb the tricky constricting bottleneck (crux) to a good jam and stance. Whimper for joy and continue easily to a big ledge. Finish here or, for full value, do the direct finish! Rap as for NP.

FA: Trevor Gynther, Steve Bell, 1983

19Trad 24m
220 ** Drop-out Direct Finish

The only way to go. Continue up the brilliant hand crack flake above to the top. This was originally thought to be a separate route, started off the ledge. It is however a far better variant finish to DO, and a contender for one of the better low grade cracks on the cliff.

FA: Bill Noris, 1980

16Trad 7m
221 Drop-out Variant Finish

Not as good as the Direct Finish (DDF). This is the thin crack up the face directly above Pibrock. Worth a trip if you have done the others. It packs quite a punch for such a midget of a route.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Robbie Allen, 1983

20Trad 5m
222 Kookamunga

Just to the R of the previous route is this crappy little addition to the cliff. A dirty little corner that really has nothing to recommend it.

FA: Paul Hoskins, Robbie Allen., 1983

18Trad 5m
223 Ethicmans Dilemma

A complete sandbag at its old grade of 16. Strap on your knee pads and climb the horrible tight orange groove R of DO. The crack flairs a lot, so getting gear to stay in is quite a mission. Grunt and flail up this pukefest until you come to a stance at 2/3 height. Sweat and vomit and now you will never do this route again, then continue easily to the top.

FA: Ross Allen, Rick White, 1970

18 RTrad 22m
224 * Licensed to Kill

Looks like it probably will! Climb up the pillar immediately R of ED. 3 bolts show the way to the top. Quite a serious and technical lead.

FA: John Pearson, Gordon Bieske, 1986

24Trad 22m
225 Pibrock

Quite tricky off the ground. Start up the corner to a ledge, with excellent protection just keeping things sane. From here, climb the little crack in the corner to finish. Belay from the tree.

FA: Mac Thompson, Glen Burns, 1969

15Trad 20m
226 Satisfaction

A great beginner's lead. Climb the blocks to a ledge. Up the twin cracks to the next ledge. Easily up to the tree.

FA: Ron Collett, Mike Mahoney, 1969

8Trad 30m
227 Satisfaction Direct Start

"Old School" paradise! Climb the disgusting body crack found around to the R of S, until it re-joins the original line. It would be far more productive to shoot yourself, and possibly less painful.

FA: Ron Collett, Mike Mahoney, 1969

13Trad 10m
228 Satisfaction Direct Finish

The obvious handcrack starting from the first ledge. Quite hard, and very easy to hit ledges if you should fall.

FA: Rick White, Ian Cameron, 1974

16Trad 12m
229 Bite Free

A crappy little climb. Start on the R side of the pillar. Go up the micro seam 2m L of the arete, stepping up and around L to a stance, and a now completely pointless 1st bolt at knee height. Finish easily.

FA: Richard Henderson, Scott Camps, 1986

19 RTrad 9m
230 Leprechaun

A tought little unit for about 3 moves, then easily to the tree. Up the crack on the R using lots of grunt and bridging. From here, step L onto the wall and finish easily.

After 1st tree option R overgrown option L loose

FA: Mike Mahoney, Mac Thompson, 1969

7Trad 20m
231 * Night Flight to Venus

What a way to end the guide: with this pile of rubbish. Above and behind Leprechaun, and just R of Pibrock is this lonely little handcrack. It is mediocrity at its worst and not worth the pain.

FA: Bill (the man of mank) Noris, 1980

16Trad 12m
232 Variant Finish

Another wacko job courtesy of Mr Henderson.

FA: Richard Henderson., 1986

21Trad 8m
233 Root

FA: unknown

5Unknown 3m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Area
5 Root Unknown 3m 1.2. West of the access track
6 Saturday Afternoon Walk Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
7 Excreta Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Leprechaun Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
8 Ex Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
Satisfaction Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
9 Fluorescent Mank Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Three Nuns Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
Short and Sweet Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
10 Sunday Afternoon Walk Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
Strawberry Alarm-clock Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
11 Condor Trad 18m 1.1. East of the access track
Parsons Pleasure Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
Revolution Trad 30m 1.1. East of the access track
Rhyolite Fruit Trad 13m 1.2. West of the access track
12 Doctor Pats Crack Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
Macbarren Trad 5m 1.1. East of the access track
Lape Trad 27m 1.2. West of the access track
Witches Cauldron Pitch 1 Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
Witches Cauldron Pitch 2 Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
13 Asbestos Grapefruit Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
Electric Mud Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
First Layback Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
Tardis Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
* Clockwork Orange Corner Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Satisfaction Direct Start Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
14 Babys Bottom Trad 8m 1.1. East of the access track
Don Speeds Electric Bird Trad 18m 1.1. East of the access track
* Electric Lead Trad 26m 1.1. East of the access track
Grandma's Tonic Mixed 18m, 1 1.1. East of the access track
Moll Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Shit Heap Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
* Theory Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Arknamton 1 Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
** Electronic Flag Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
* Faki Trad 13m 1.2. West of the access track
Mr Bojangles VF Trad 7m 1.2. West of the access track
Orchid Alley Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
Psychedelic Apricot Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Trick or Treat Trad 4m 1.2. West of the access track
15 Hanging Tree Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
Holy Ghost Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Iron Butterfly Trad 28m 1.1. East of the access track
Let it Bleed Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Mechanical Prune Trad 18m 1.1. East of the access track
Onlookers Omelette Right Side Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
Pop-up Toaster Trad 6m 1.1. East of the access track
Syrius Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
Tarzans Dilemma Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
? Trad 14m 1.2. West of the access track
Bad Blues Trad 22m 1.2. West of the access track
* Bad Company Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
Chunder Crack Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
** Devil's Wart Trad 27m 1.2. West of the access track
* Frog Art Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
Illusion Trad 23m 1.2. West of the access track
Jockette Trad 22m 1.2. West of the access track
* Mr. Bojangles Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Pibrock Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
Pixel Princess Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Rest Area Ahead Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
Uriah Heep Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
16 * Blood, Sweat and Tears Trad 40m 1.1. East of the access track
* Castor Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
Century Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Dunston Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
Fat Mattress Trad 30m 1.1. East of the access track
Forked Tongue Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
* Horse-drawn Zeppelin Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
Mainliner Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
** Materialistic Prostitution Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
Moonlighter Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Our Father Trad 45m 1.1. East of the access track
* Sabrasucker Trad 18m 1.1. East of the access track
The Bed-sitting Room Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
* Winston Alley Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
Worthless Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Christian Trad 17m 1.2. West of the access track
** Drop-out Direct Finish Trad 7m 1.2. West of the access track
Eating Gorillas Trad 22m 1.2. West of the access track
Electric Banana Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
Frog Fart Trad 9m 1.2. West of the access track
* Illusion / Bad Blues Link Up Trad 22m 1.2. West of the access track
* Integrated Injection Logic Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Mango Trad 8m 1.2. West of the access track
* Night Flight to Venus Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
Rack Attack Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
** Satans Smokestack Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
Satisfaction Direct Finish Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
16 to 17 Wasp Nest Trad 6m 1.2. West of the access track
17 * A Hundred and One Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
Dave Manks Electric Gorilla Direct Finish Trad 6m 1.1. East of the access track
Dynamite Trad 18m 1.1. East of the access track
* Erectile Kingpin Trad 16m 1.1. East of the access track
Gangrene Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
King Shits and Dead Shits Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
* Liquid Laughter Layback Trad 38m 1.1. East of the access track
Phatang Trad 40m 1.1. East of the access track
Side-pocket Shot Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
The Big O Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
** Wizards Back Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
** Blow by Blow Mixed 18m, 1 1.2. West of the access track
Canned Heat Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
* Chocolate Watch Band Trad 17m 1.2. West of the access track
Cold Turkey Trad 27m 1.2. West of the access track
Genghis Khan Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
* Humility (Left Variant) Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
* If Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
Image of the Nat Trad 8m 1.2. West of the access track
* Jumbo Services Mrs Mills and the Electric Yellow Bums Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
Just Made It into the Guide Trad 5m 1.2. West of the access track
Macraderma Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
** Micron Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
* Neon Philharmonic Trad 42m 1.2. West of the access track
* Neon Philharmonic Variant Finish Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
Oscillating Pinapple Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Smoked Banana Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
18 Blood of the Christ Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Borderline 29 Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Danger, Danger, Evacuate! Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
Dave Manks Electric Gorilla Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
Death Road 2,000 Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
* Don't Spare the Rod Trad 16m 1.1. East of the access track
* Farty Clacker Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
Kronk Trad 6m 1.1. East of the access track
Last Picture Show Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
Noose Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Resurrection Corner Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
* Sacrilege Crack Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Thing Trad 5m 1.1. East of the access track
Warrumbugles in My Backyard Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
* Angel Rider Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
Arknamton 2 Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
Arknamton 3 Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
Bay Play Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
** Elastic RURP Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
Ethicmans Dilemma Trad 22m 1.2. West of the access track
Fast Eddie Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
** Fluid / Epic Link Up Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Gladiator Trad 17m 1.2. West of the access track
Harlot Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
Hello Sailor Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
Hells Angel Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Iron Mandible Trad 24m 1.2. West of the access track
Kookamunga Trad 5m 1.2. West of the access track
Oscar Trad 8m 1.2. West of the access track
Saffron Crack Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
* Second Song Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
Straight Man's Fear Trad 13m 1.2. West of the access track
Vegetation Row Trad 37m 1.2. West of the access track
** Warlock Trad 26m 1.2. West of the access track
Witches Covert Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
19 Blody Red Rooster Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Cheetah Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
** Inquisition Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
John Cleeses Python Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
Lord of the Flies Variant Start Trad 8m 1.1. East of the access track
** Monty Pythons Flying Circus Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
* Off the Wall Trad 13m 1.1. East of the access track
Onlookers Omelette Left Side Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
* Peaches and Cream Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
** Southern Comfort Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Suggestive Poses Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
The Kiwi Experience Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
Bite Free Trad 9m 1.2. West of the access track
Bits and Pieces Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Catharsis Variant Finish Trad 7m 1.2. West of the access track
Color Me Dead Mixed 9m, 1 1.2. West of the access track
* Drop Out Trad 24m 1.2. West of the access track
* Electronic Flag DS Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
* Hollywood Rattlesnake Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
* Humility Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Infinity Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
Jigsaw Trad 35m 1.2. West of the access track
** Magical Mystery Tour Trad 38m 1.2. West of the access track
Midnight Express Trad 23m 1.2. West of the access track
Myopia Sport 5m 1.2. West of the access track
Nemesis Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
Non Compos Mentis Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
Nymphets Crack Trad 32m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Plume Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
Psychedelic Apricot Pitch Two Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
Shocking Blue Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Sorcerers Apprentice Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
Sweet Transvestite Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Thor Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
Wango Tango Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
20 Back Row Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
* Cannabis Crack Trad 35m 1.1. East of the access track
* Corner of Eden Trad 35m 1.1. East of the access track
Cut Short Trad 13m 1.1. East of the access track
** Egotistical Pinapple Trad 14m 1.1. East of the access track
** Erg Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Erg Variant Finish Trad 5m 1.1. East of the access track
* Famous Cosmetics Trad 40m 1.1. East of the access track
Into the Fire Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
* Lord of the Flies Trad 40m 1.1. East of the access track
** Pollux Trad 23m 1.1. East of the access track
* Rack and Ruin Trad 40m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Rickety Kate Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Right Side of the Shield Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Trap for Young Players Trad 11m 1.1. East of the access track
Yokomo Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Atomic Frog Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
** Catharsis Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
Clean Wholesome Outdoor Fresh-air Family-entertainment Science-fiction Superman Physics Trad 50m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Cock Crack Trad 38m 1.2. West of the access track
Day of the Porcupine Trad 5m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Devils Dihedral Trad 45m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Dream of Purple Peach Popsicles Trad 27m 1.2. West of the access track
Drop-out Variant Finish Trad 5m 1.2. West of the access track
* Easy Rider Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
** Footloose and Falling Free Trad 11m 1.2. West of the access track
Gully Bumble Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. West of the access track
* Holy Grail Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
I Wish I Was in Dixie Trad 7m 1.2. West of the access track
Keed Spills Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Odin Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Piranha Trad 45m 1.2. West of the access track
Quick Trad 13m 1.2. West of the access track
** Satyricon Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Short Order Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
Sleight of Hand Trad 8m 1.2. West of the access track
** Termination Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
** The Great Big Bright Green Pleasure Machine Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
21 Bongos and Beached Whales Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
Boris and Natasha Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
Close to the Edge Trad 35m 1.1. East of the access track
Not Another Bowie Name Trad 8m 1.1. East of the access track
* Plummeting Pinapple Trad 35m 1.1. East of the access track
Sister Boogie Woman Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
*** The Stars Look Down Trad 18m 1.1. East of the access track
** Venom Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
American Snake Trad 27m 1.2. West of the access track
** Androcles Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Cock Corner Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Conquistador Trad 45m 1.2. West of the access track
** Fluid Journey Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
Garbage and the Goddess Variant Trad 28m 1.2. West of the access track
Green Noises Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
Half-dazed and Patched Pants Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
** I'm a Mop Mixed 8m, 1 1.2. West of the access track
* Juggernaut Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
O Lucky Man Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
** Oppenheimers Monster Mixed 25m, 2 1.2. West of the access track
Popping Pillars Trad 7m 1.2. West of the access track
* Run With the Pack Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
* The Anti-From Trad 17m 1.2. West of the access track
The Guns of Navaronne Variant Finish Trad 8m 1.2. West of the access track
*** The One That Got Away Trad 42m 1.2. West of the access track
Variant Finish Trad 8m 1.2. West of the access track
** Warlock DS Trad 26m 1.2. West of the access track
22 Anal Teens Trad 35m 1.1. East of the access track
* Badfinger Trad 30m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Black Light Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
** Bloody Mary Trad 16m 1.1. East of the access track
Boltophobia Arete Trad 8m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Child in Time Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
** Dave Manks Electric Gorilla Direct Start Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
Delilah Trad 40m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Erg Direct Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Face Ache Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
* Fawlty Towers Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Lead-lined Lothario Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
No Name Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
* Parallel Universe Trad 18m 1.1. East of the access track
** Parasite Drag Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
Ride Me High Trad 40m 1.1. East of the access track
Slippin' Away Trad 13m 1.1. East of the access track
Slough Stuff Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
Snipe Mixed 23m, 2 1.1. East of the access track
** Steel Fingers Trad 40m 1.1. East of the access track
** The Acorn Tree Trad 12m 1.1. East of the access track
** Tight Lips and Cold Feet Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
Which Art in Heaven Trad 24m 1.1. East of the access track
Yeah, Yeah, Yeah! Trad 28m 1.1. East of the access track
* Yodel up the Valley Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
* Bitter and Twisted Trad 45m 1.2. West of the access track
** Decade Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
Equality Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
Face Facts Trad 7m 1.2. West of the access track
Fat Dog Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
Holy Grail Direct Finish Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Infinity Variant Finish Mixed 10m, 1 1.2. West of the access track
Left Behind Trad 1.2. West of the access track
* Little Running Bear Trad 7m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Lonely Teardrops Trad 22m 1.2. West of the access track
* Lord Drool Sport 6m 1.2. West of the access track
* No Return Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Old Guard Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
** Out on a Limb Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
Safe as Milk Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
** Satsang Mixed 5m, 1 1.2. West of the access track
Squeaky Leather Trad 38m 1.2. West of the access track
** Suicide City Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
* Understanding Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Yankee Go Home Trad 26m 1.2. West of the access track
23 Bongos and Beached Whales Direct Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Cocont Ice Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
Cracks in the Pavement Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
De Facto Trad 18m 1.1. East of the access track
Ground to a Halt Trad 14m 1.1. East of the access track
* Gum Nut Trad 11m 1.1. East of the access track
** Satanic Majesty Trad 30m 1.1. East of the access track
* Sticky Date Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
The Anti-Crookneck Trad 20m 1.1. East of the access track
The Guilt By Association Years Sport 10m 1.1. East of the access track
Vis-à-Vis Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
Baby Staysharp Sport 7m, 2 1.2. West of the access track
Bag the Nazi Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
* Battered Son Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
Bel-air Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Brain Death Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
* Chemical Adrenalin Trad 24m 1.2. West of the access track
** Dangerously Sane Trad 22m 1.2. West of the access track
** Day of the Jackal Trad 28m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Deliverance Trad 45m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Epic Journey Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
* Garbage and the Goddess Mixed 28m, 1 1.2. West of the access track
* Go-between Trad 18m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Insomnia Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
Lambs Fry Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
* Midnight Lightning Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
Momentary Lapse Of Reason Mixed 12m, 3 1.2. West of the access track
No Return Direct Finish Trad 5m 1.2. West of the access track
** Nosy Business Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
** Ockerphillia Trad 23m 1.2. West of the access track
Perversion Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
Quite Contrary Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
Rudys Got New Shoes Trad 1.2. West of the access track
* Separator Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
That's Rat! Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
*** The Guns of Navaronne Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
** Unknown Bolt Fest Mixed 25m, 3 1.2. West of the access track
24 * Boris And Natasha DS Trad 22m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Impulse Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Keep Left Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Plate Tectonics Trad 18m 1.1. East of the access track
Swashbuckler Trad 15m 1.1. East of the access track
* Bitching and Back Stabbing Mixed 12m, 2 1.2. West of the access track
Bombs Over British Airways Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
* Cheshire Cat Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
** Down With His Pants Mixed 20m, 3 1.2. West of the access track
* Ginger Bitch Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
** Gone and Forgotten Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
* Instant Karma Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
* Licensed to Kill Trad 22m 1.2. West of the access track
* Quietly Superior Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
* Serenade for Strings Trad 35m 1.2. West of the access track
* The Anti-From Direct Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
The Gentle Lion Trad 12m 1.2. West of the access track
The Guns of Navaronne Direct Variant Trad 4m 1.2. West of the access track
** The Last Ungreat Trad 15m 1.2. West of the access track
** Wild One Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Worrying Heights Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
25 *** Carrion Comfort Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Elven Castle Sport 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Fat Mattress Direct Trad 6m 1.1. East of the access track
** Hard Nose Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
Irky Perky Trad 30m 1.1. East of the access track
** The Elven King Sport 25m, 3 1.1. East of the access track
** Barbed-wire Canoe Trad 27m 1.2. West of the access track
Bongo Gongo Wasto Ergo Sum Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
* Green Plastic Comb Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
** Life at the Top Trad 30m 1.2. West of the access track
** Paranoia Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
* Separator Direct Start Trad 10m 1.2. West of the access track
** Stonkers and Steroids Mixed 30m, 4 1.2. West of the access track
** Tantrum Trad 45m 1.2. West of the access track
*** Voices in the Sky Trad 32m 1.2. West of the access track
* You Climb This, I'll Climb Something Else Trad 40m 1.2. West of the access track
26 *** Future Tense Trad 40m 1.1. East of the access track
** Hard Nose DS Unknown 5m 1.1. East of the access track
* Chook Fear Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
** Inhibition Mixed 15m, 3 1.2. West of the access track
** Petulance Trad 45m 1.2. West of the access track
* Sadhana Mixed 10m, 1 1.2. West of the access track
** Self Expression Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
* Wild One Direct Start Trad 5m 1.2. West of the access track
27 Anal Teens Direct Start Trad 10m 1.1. East of the access track
Catcher in the Rye Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
* Hallowed Ground Trad 30m 1.1. East of the access track
** The Lords Prayer Trad 30m 1.1. East of the access track
Flange Desire Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
* Handy Andy Mixed 20m, 2 1.2. West of the access track
** Stand in Line Trad 28m 1.2. West of the access track
** Time for Tea Trad 35m 1.2. West of the access track
28 ** Debrilla Trad 25m 1.1. East of the access track
*** Brown Corduroy Trousers Trad 25m 1.2. West of the access track
29 * How Are Your Calluses Today Trad 20m 1.2. West of the access track
30 *** Pokamoko (and the Valley Girl) Trad 30m 1.1. East of the access track
32 *** Whistling Kite Trad 30m 1.1. East of the access track
? Saffron Sun Trad 1.2. West of the access track