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Description:

Brilliant climbing, one of the best 14s that Frog has to offer. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the tree; stars apply if you finish here. If you must, continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

Ethic: inherited from Frog Buttress

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Steve Bell & Ian Cameron

Location:  

Located in East of the access track approx:
Long/Lat: 152.622278,-27.982541

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Principal
14 * Pocket RockGUIDE: Frog Buttress
14 R ** ** ACA Route Register

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 56%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux sustained hard pleasant super fun cool nice good great wicked enjoyable awesome fall chimney rest interesting awkward arete epic layback face easy bad jamming jugs crack

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