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Description:© (koala)

A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. An optional direct start up the desperate corner and crack goes at grade 19. This used to be 17, but the thrashing feet of 10 thousand struggling leaders have reduced this to a spit polished sandbag. One alternate start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17. The 14 variant starts 6m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section. Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down).

Ethic: inherited from Frog Buttress

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1969

Location:  

Located in West of the access track approx:
Long/Lat: 152.618998,-27.984831

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Route Grade Citations

14 Community registered grade
14 ** ** ACA Route Register
14 ** Pocket RockGUIDE: Frog Buttress

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 64%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

tired crux difficult tough hard pleasant fun cool nice perfect fantastic good sweet brilliant amazing great lovely enjoyable classic awesome scary fall tricky exposed committing steep feet chimney rest awkward roof layback balancy face easy cruisy crack

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