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Description:

One of the first 23s in Australia! Although previously downgraded, this route has lost non of its spice over the years. Up the brilliant V-groove with phenomenally classy bridging and face work, capped by a desperate mantle on to the ledge. From here, grunt up the classic off-width to an easy finish! Originally aided by Staszewski and Killop, they backed off realizing that a better climber might one day free this amazing line. All were stunned and inspired when it was freed by Henry Barber.

Ethic: inherited from Frog Buttress

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Henry Barber & Rick White, 1975

Location:  

Located in West of the access track approx:
Long/Lat: 152.618998,-27.984831

Route Grade Citations

21 ** ** ACA Route Register
21 ** Pocket RockGUIDE: Frog Buttress
22 Susy G
23 Principal

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 79%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

pumped crux hard good fun exciting classic awesome feet face mantle awkward offwidth crack

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