Ascents of Insomnia

Brilliant lead by James. Felt a touch harder than 22 for me. Amazing moves and very engaging the whole way. The off-width at the top is a true way to cap off such an experience.

inspired by Ash's onsight last year, I came back with the intention of climbing this one in his honour. probs should distance this attempt from his epic onsight. off the deck i struggled. but after some hiccups lower down (read: hangs), at every successive move i thought I was gonna blow it, somehow i slithered my way up to the mantle move, only to back off bc i remember it being a nightmare. but got it after that. topped off with and ow?? glorious. amazing climb and one of my favs here. would love to come back and clean up this mess next year.

Pretty cool and varied movements. Not too bad for the grade

Stiff start! Really cool and varied movement the whole way up. Yim did a stellar job leading this, even on second this feels out of my league currently.

Yim pronounced it Inso-mania, which is how I’ll refer to it from now on too lol

Sat to get out a nut, otherwise clean. Reckon I'd find the first few moves intimidating on lead.

Spanked by this. Pulled the mantle easily this time but got roasted down low. Zero flow.

Got it clean to the awkward as hell ledge then proceeded to fall over and over again. Hard work for a warm up

Much better than last years gear zipper retreat attempt. Some facey moves down low teased my fingies abit but the jamming and ow felt very secure. One of the best lines out here for steamy stemming and i like abit of air uo between my legs. Dont take that the wrong way.. no do actually.

omg i have always wanted to climb this ever since i laid on the cover of the guidebook. but was glad to be on second! ow finish feels classic henry barber. pleased to say i got it clean and ash snagged the onsight like a CHAMP

Ooof. Probably whipped about 4 times on that slopey ledge before discovering the jug had filled up with dirt and choss. Roosted a tennis ball sized piece into the scree which ended up ricocheting off a gum and back into Dan on belay. Poor fella had to piss with one hand on the gri while I sieged the offwidth, which ended up going free as a consolidation prize.

Bloody hard and beautiful face climbing

struggled with the steep hand crack in the middle third and aided a lot of it. really enjoyable moves, even if the questionable rock in the first third is terrifying for both climber and belayer

Even in the morning it's too hot here.

The frail rock down low is terrifying, but leads to some good climbing. 2 stars at absolute most though.

What an absolute legend of a climb this was so much fun! Can't wait to get back on it!

Unreal climbing. Loads of face holds make this quite a lot easier than it appears

Bloody face climbing. Ill be back with stronger fingers. Thats probably a lie

This fine line was next on the list for onsite attempts. Probably needed another session at Frog after being away for a bit before trying this. Took to the air halfway up after a desperate placement. Held on 2 and a half lobes. First fall at Frog. Then took a big whip just before the sloping ledge with better placements. Did the offwidth no problem. Guess i will have to come back for this.

Flake at the start is a little shit but don't let it put you off!

Would have been an amazing experience with climbing shoes. Unfortunately my approach shoes limited my crack and stemming technique. Offwith at the top is a mega classic.

Fuck off its a 22. I've climbed easyer 25s! Have people forgotten how the Ewbank system works ?

That dam ledge thought it would be positive but it’s a sloppy one fell of there

Anchors could be better located as pulling ropes is very difficult and painful.

Hard near the ground so a bit exciting to second if you are not really good enough for 22 cracks 😅

Lost the onsight at the sloping ledge. I really did think it was going to be a jug. By the time i had matched it and looked over the lip i knew i was about to take a ride. I whimpered like a small child who's just dropped his lolly pop in the sand when i slapped desperately for salvation. My impending doom was apparent when my sunshine state sweaty palm merely moistened the ledge. My chest has been hairier ever since.

Felt harder then 22 what an adventure