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Description:

This climb has hosted a wasp nest for the last 5 years in a flake just around the R arete about 2m above the start. They are not little ants and as one stupid author found out, can't be tapped out of the flake that they are hiding in! From the ledge above the bottleneck, step R and up the arete for about 5m. Continue a little more R until you wind up in a crack. Follow this to the top. Great fun, excellent moves, super exposure...feisty wasps!

Ethic: inherited from Frog Buttress

Frog is seen by some as the last bastion of "hard man" ethics in Qld. It features predominantly naturally protected crack climbing of the highest quality.

Therefore it is not Kangaroo Point or Nowra, and anybody expecting to come to Frog on a sport climbing mission should pack up their draws and lycra pants and go back there. Retro bolting is severely frowned upon, and bolts are to be placed only on first ascents if there is no protection of any kind available. (Bolting is technically illegal in national parks, be warned). Failure to follow this simple rule could see the bolts chopped and the offender dragged into the bushes by strange bearded men, and then clubbed to death by No. 8 hexes.

Chipping of holds is strictly forbidden, and budding sculptors should piss off. If you can't do the climb, don't lower it to your standard, instead, raise your standard to the level of the climb! Top roping is frowned upon, more so because setting up top anchors can be quite difficult and even dangerous due to the very loose nature of the top of the cliff.

Large portable stereos also seem to have an unfortunate habit of having rocks land on them! Bury toilet waste well away from the walking track, and please carry all rubbish out with you!

Credit: A Cheap and Nasty Guide to Frog Buttress. Andrew Martin

Route History:

  • First Ascent: Fred From & Kevin Pearl., 1979

Location:  

Located in West of the access track approx:
Long/Lat: 152.618998,-27.984831

Route Grade Citations

17 Community registered grade
* Tom Kjaer-Olsen
17 * * ACA Route Register
17 * Pocket RockGUIDE: Frog Buttress

Route quality

Route quality

Overall quality score: 50%

Lead Styles

Lead styles pie chart

Comments keywords

good runout crack

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