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Nodes in West of the access track

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West of the access track

All routes West (to the left walking down) of the scree slope track that heads down from the car park.

As per the sign on the walk in, if you require emergency assistance quote "left side".

14 Trick or Treat

What a complete waste of time, paper and oxygen! Yet another case of beard stroking bumblies at work. The vegetated outcrop on the L halfway down the scree slope.

5 Smegma

The short line just left of The Root.

5 Root

The tree root left of COC, described in 1968 as "one of the best routes around"

20 R Sleight of Hand

Really very good and deserves to be more popular. Originally done as a solo. The small dark wall to the left of COC offers enjoyable and classy face climbing. Yet another top rope candidate as the climbing should really not be missed. Take off a grade if you're tall!

22 R Lord Drool

Really good climbing, a pity about the gear. Start on the ledge above SOH. Off-balance moves up a L leaning seam get you to a stance and a very lonely carrot bolt. From there sequency and thin moves see you to the top. Easier if you reach around to the R. Potential for a very effective deck-out if you fall from near the top. A good candidate for top roping.

13 Clockwork Orange Corner

Very popular, mainly due to the fact that it stays in the shade all day! Classy but technical climbing ascends the very obvious corner R of SOH. Excellent gear (if you have a number of fist-sized cams) with a slightly awkward and overhung crux. Up easily to DBB as you top out of the corner.

23 Bel-air

Up the crack on the R edge of the COC chimney. Climb this till it ends at a daunting overhang. Whack in a nest of gear and blast for the bolt (carrot) over a hard bulge for a move or two. Continue R and finish easily.

17 R Blow by Blow

Solo up the face of the pillar to the left of OA up to a ledge and tree. It is best to get off there. If you must, climb the shallow seam just to the L of OA on very dodgy pro to the top.

21 R Novocastria

The arête left of OA, one old carrot, #1 RP essential

14 Orchid Alley

Often nicknamed "Awkward Alley", to avoid the awkwardness, you will be climbing committing bridging and face moves. Climb a great hand crack corner to a flake at 3m... the straight forward climbing ends there. Blast up the wide and grunty crack to the ledge with a tree on the L. From here 3 lines are possible, using a combination of the left crack and middle arete moves is exciting and good climbing.

22 Left Behind

Halfway up OA, this short climb traverses R over the slab, under the block, and finishes up the arete (head L onto wall near the finish).

10 Strawberry Alarm-clock

A classic of the chimney style and a must do if you're into that sort of thing. The dark chimney to the left of DWHP. A challenging lead for the novice climber. Despite reputation the climb offers good placements the whole way. Make sure to extend gear below large block (crux) at half height followed by a run out section if you don't have a #6 cam or big bro. 30 meters to top out.

24 Down With His Pants

Start just to the right of SA chimney. Up the arete and face following 3 carrots.

Stuart Camps and Gordon Bieske originally did the top crack in March 1983, called Runners are Nuts.

19 Nemesis

This wide and daunting crack has seen more than its fair share of aspiring leaders turned into a dribbling, pumped, senseless mass of despair! The gear is excellent, but make sure you take up plenty of big gear to protect this climb adequately. Without this protection, a ground fall is extremely probable. Lay back up the first crack on polished foot holds to a ledge at 6m. From here, thrash up the wide crack until it is possible to step R. Easily to the top.

23 Lambs Fry

Very difficult for the vertically challenged! Kick off the tree to get up the initial blank corner. A hard mantle onto a choss-filled ledge gains a rest. Up the cracked arete above.

12 Lape

An absolute must do for the aspiring hex-clanking, hemp rope-using, old school, lord of thrutch! The tight chimney to the LH of AS. A difficult move off the top of the pillar. Take big gear for behind the pillar and make sure to extend it also.

21 American Snake

Up Lape to the top of the pillar (you have already been warned). Step R and up the arete, then good pro and moves in the crack above. The move off the pillar is hard and unprotected.

22 No Return

Start up the finger crack in the V-groove R of Lape, step off the top of the pillar, but continue out to the arete. Up this shaky affair past a roof to a ledge. Continue up and around R to finish. Absolutely desperate, with quite small and shallow gear at the crux!

23 No Return Direct Finish

The corner above the ledge. Not really a lot better than the original.

25 R Life at the Top

Quite risky and serious. Climb the tree R of NR until you can step onto the blank face above the bulge. Follow a thin pocketed seam until it ends, keep going R until a jug comes to hand. Mantle as for NR.

27 Time for Tea

Classy climbing up a visionary line. Go up the broken corner R of NR, to some rooflets. Past these on the left, passing bolts. From here, veer up and L (nut possible), then begin angling diagonally to the arete. From there, veer L to the top on super thin holds, and quite exposed climbing.

25 R You Climb This, I'll Climb Something Else

Death. Start at the arete just R of TFT. Climb past 2 bolts and a wire at the roof. From here, climb with tendon-rupturing brutality up the arete and wall past the gap where Rob removed the bolts, thereby returning the route to its original state. This was done to honour Rick White's dream of a bolt-free cliff.

22 Fat Dog

The utterly contrived piece of junk to the L of A1. Step off the rock pedestal onto the arete. Climb the face, avoiding the crack, to the ledge above. Move R to a crack system and finish up the thin seam.

18 R Arknamton 3

This climb is horrible. A very short, vegetation-filled off-width with loose rock and poor pro. If you decide to climb this, hit yourself really hard, and move on!

14 R Arknamton 1

Grotty climbing on loose flakes makes this yet another death lead classic! Up the hollow flakes, with surprisingly ok gear to the ledge. Ascend the corner behind to the top.

18 Arknamton 2

A bit of a ramble up to a corner which has a few OK moves then make your way to a tree and rap or continue as for A1.

19 R Non Compos Mentis

A blight on the face of the world. 10 sticks of dynamite could only assist in making this climb slightly better. The wide, loose, dark line, full of loose blocks and worse!

23 Dangerously Sane

The orange arête between Non Compos Mentis and Self Expression. Start in NCM, nice moves up and diagonally R past a small triangular pedestal to gain a crack on the R wall, (alternatively, thrutch up the ugly offwidth). Hug the arête passing two BR's (crux) to another small pedestal (alien/TCU on R). Continue straight up the arête to finish R of the bulging rock on top. Chain on tree. 2 BR's, wires, SLCD's. A small alien or TCU in a thin slot makes the second half less dangerous/more sane. It fits a quadcam but not as well.

26 Self Expression

Truly insane climbing up a desperately thin seam. Wobble and shake and whimper your way up on good RPs, small wires and one crappy piton. Strenuous, technical and classy. This was an awesome and inspiring effort by Kim Carrigan.

17 Canned Heat

The orange, shattered corner to the R of SE. Bush bash about 10m to the base of the route. Loose and often dirty, this route is quite demanding for the grade. Protection is ample; placing it is another thing.

29 How Are Your Calluses Today?

This brutal and sustained tendon destroyer features some of the sharpest and thinnest crimpers on the cliff. Step onto the L side of the large blank wall to the L of EF. Follow the line of bolts up the face to the top.

14 Electronic Flag

A long and very popular series of corners and cracks. Decent gear all the way but if you're belaying be aware that there are several ledges that the leader could hit.

There are three choices of start to this route: the rightmost is the Direct Start (19) which takes the clean layback corner into the line.

The middle start goes up the crack 2m on the L which leads to a short chimney; this goes at 17.

The original route (14) starts 4m L up the line of least resistance. Blast up this to a ledge, and then thoroughly absorbing climbing up the overhanging chimney section.

Rap at trees and chain (2 ropes to get down, or 1 x 70m will suffice).

17 Electronic flag DS - LHS

The left of the two direct starts.

19 Electronic Flag DS - RHS

Instead of climbing left of it, go straight up the almost perfect crack in the almost perfect corner. This used to be graded 17, but the thrashing feet of 10 thousand struggling leaders have reduced this to a spit polished sandbag.

18 Second Song

A traverse from 'Electronic Flag' over to 'Fluid Journey'.

25 Paranoia

Brutal but amazing climbing up the searing corner R of EF. Up and L into the seam proper to a small stance. Blast up this to the ledge above. Completely unrelenting in the second half. Despite its appearances this route is well protected. Bring loads of small wires and cams.

24 The Gentle Lion

A good second pitch to Paranoia. Climb the improbable and technical shallow seam directly above. There are some dodgy flakes on the face, beware! Join 'Wango Tango' (which comes in from the R), continue easily to the top.

24 Worrying Heights

Absolutely stunning climbing up one of the better lines on the entire cliff! This long and technical corner involves some of the most amazing bridging and lay backing there is. Be prepared for a run out crux. Finish up Piranha.

24 Ginger Bitch

A direct finish to QC, or a fun variant finish for Insomnia. Instead of stepping R and climbing up the finish of Insomnia, climb the arete directly above the finish of QC passing 2 bolts. Bowel-rupturing exposure, and nice technical movement makes this climb well worth the trip.

23 Quite Contrary

A link up. Start at the corner 1m R of WH. Up the closed corner and into Piranha. Up the R crack of Piranha until it blanks out. From here, step R into Insomnia and up. There are better routes to do.

20 Piranha

An amazing route that is a must do. Up the tricky start to a ledge. Step L into the bottomless chimney, doing some funky moves up the corner. A desperate bulge at the top of this groove provides loads of excitement, as well as the crux. Flop with much joy onto the ledge. Belay is possible here. A tricky move off the ledge gains a small crack which eases off very quickly. Up the obvious line above to a ledge and rap rings.

19 Wango Tango

A variant finish to Piranha. It features quite nice climbing, but the rock quality is questionable in places. Off the ledge, climb Piranha until it steps L, and keep going out L across the wall. Breathe a sigh of relief when you reach the crack, bumble up above with great moves and gear.

22 Insomnia

One of the first 23s in Australia! Although previously downgraded, this route has lost none of its spice over the years. Up the brilliant V-groove with phenomenally classy bridging and face work, capped by a desperate mantle on to the ledge. From here, grunt up the classic off-width to an easy finish! Originally aided by Staszewski and Killop, they backed off realizing that a better climber might one day free this amazing line. All were stunned and inspired when it was freed by Henry Barber. The initial corner has a fair bit of loose feeling rock, take care.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1976, when it was 21, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

21 Fluid Journey

Quite good. Up the initial corner to a hard move onto a ledge. From here, thin locking and classic bridging bring the top to hand.

18 Fluid / Epic Link Up

Climb Fluid Journey until possible to pull into Epic Journey at about half height. Dont traverse too low or you will end up in the crux of Epic Journey. Combines the easiest sections of both routes.

23 Epic Journey

Brilliant, graceful and absorbing climbing up the twin cracks starting off the small ledge right of FJ. Some of the most elegant face climbing and layaway moves around. Step L into the single crack with joyous jamming and chimney moves above.

27 R Stand in Line

Wow! Start up the desperate corner R of EJ with crappy gear and a rusty piton playing head games with you as you stare it in the eye! If you fall in the first 15m, it is more than likely that you will deck out! Climb this to a stance. Up the desperately thin corner on imaginary holds, using scary and spacious protection to the top. Some good wires about half way up are the only real protection you get on the whole route. Quite a serious lead although it really does feature some excellent movement. Kim rapped this then did it first shot. Rather impressive.

Edit: A large section of rock at the bottom of the climb fell off the route in 2019.

25 Green Plastic Comb

A very hard route to protect well on lead. Start on the cracked arete, up this for a few moves and then out onto the R face. Quiver up the face on thin holds with RPs and flared token cam placements guaranteeing your concentration! A hard move on the arete moves the route to the L face and an excellent #3 RP. From there, flail up the face to where the obvious diagonal crack line leads R to a ledge. This crack is actually quite easy but feels relatively hard due to the fact that most climbers are pumped completely senseless by then! Follow this to a ledge, then easily up. Rap as for SIL.

26 Sadhana

If your arms are still capable of basic function, this should help to finish them off! The direct finish to GPC features classic climbing up a delicate arete. From where the crack goes R, head straight up the arete past a lone bolt. Run it out to the top.

27 R Handy Andy

Most people tend to onsight this route, due to the fact that a fall could be very nasty! Bridge up the completely blank corner, pretending that there are actually holds. Very desperate climbing past the two pitons. Not a climb for the faint hearted.

27 R Flange Desire

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get. What is even more impressive is that Kevin put this up ground up - he tried it one day, it started raining so he downclimbed, came back the next day and did it. One of the most impressive first ascents in Australian climbing history.

28 Brown Corduroy Trousers

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

25 Barbed-wire Canoe

Absolutely brilliant climbing, although possibly one of the most sustained routes here. Brilliant bridging up the open-book corner to the flake at the top.

26 Chook Fear

Bridging, layaways and levitation are all required to get up this imposing, blank corner. At the top, step R to the tree. An Olympic rhythmic gymnast may be able to bridge across to WO; as for normal people, attempting this could destroy more than just your pants!

26 Wild One

A very strenuous outing and an excellent section of flared hand jamming. The start has two options, both hard. You can start up CF for a few moves and then traverse in - possibly easier but less well protected. The direct start up the seam is nails but has good gear. Brilliant sustained climbing sees you to the tree on the ledge. Although Rob Staszewski and Rick McGregor attempted the route in various styles, it was up to Kim Carrigan to free the route by the direct.

21 Cock Corner

This pump fest provides some of the best and most sustained crack climbing on the cliff. Blast up the unrelenting crack in the steep corner. The crux is unfortunately above a ledge at 2/3rd height with a good chance of hitting it, then easily to the top.

Tobin Sorenson did this in his sandshoes as his first route at the cliff.

21 I'm a Mop

Very nice! From the ledge at 2/3 height on CC, step R onto the arete. Super stylish moves and exposure past a bolt , and then into a small cracked corner at the top.

25 Stonkers and Steroids

The direct start to IAM. Stick clip the first bolt, and step out to the arete from the start of 'Cock Corner'. Very thin and technical climbing up the arete past 4 bolts, finish up 'I'm a Mop'.

20 Cock Crack

Marked by the initials "AA" for Artificial Aura, which was the climb's actual name (so named because it looked so ridiculously hard, but actually went quite easily). The route, however, had been named Cock Crack, and through the ages, no doubt due to Alzheimer's, alcohol and drug abuse, the names were swapped and Cock Crack was re-born! Climb the widening hand crack to a stance. Up the wide section by chimney moves or very classy and thin bridging to where the crack closes again. Motor up the brilliant crack and arete on super holds to finish. Big gear essential. Finish at the chains for Infinity.

16 Satan's Smokestack

The start is easier if you are tall. Climb boldly up the front of the wide crack to avoid the thrutch. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars! Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route.

19 Infinity

A contender for the best 19 in the country! The old school off-width is the only way to go for apprentice gruntologists. All the sane people start in the corner to the R. Up this past a tricky move out of a cave at 1/3 height to a stance (crux). From here, up the beautifully sculpted line to the top. Simply magnificent climbing. Rapping on a 70m rope will get you to the middle of the scramble at the base of the climb.

22 Infinity Variant Finish

From the start of the diagonal on Infinity, step L up the face past 1 bolt. A scary and atmospheric little route.

22 Equality

Hard and committing. Start up the same line as for Infinity. Continue up to a ledge past a grunty fist crack. Suck in the big ones, attach your kamikaze head band, and thrash (screaming for glory) up the blank bulge with greasy little holds making life really interesting. There is no mention of gear here, because there is not much to be found. Whimper with joy and relief when the crack finally opens up for better gear and easier moves to the top.

22 Lonely Teardrops

Stunning quality, an absolute classic. Start on the ledge above and R of the start to Infinity. Steep jamming and locking leads to a pronounced crux rounding the bulge. Great gear, a little spaced at the crux, but completely bombproof. Finish easily up to the Infinity chains.

24 Quietly Superior

Originally named Crystal Blue Persuasion, Rob S. claims that the climb was stolen from under his nose... Buy him a beer for the full tragic tale! Regardless of that, the climbing is excellent, with the gear being very good, but a little fiddly to place in spots. Aliens and RPs help a lot. Brilliant bridging and chimney moves up the orange corner to the R of LTD.

23 Rudys Got New Shoes

What some used to consider a good route has since been rendered obsolete by a tree.

19 Jigsaw

An absolutely brutal start up the narrow V-groove splitting the pillar to the L of WC. From here easily up to the level of WC ledge. Follow up a short hard corner, with the last moves at the top keeping things interesting.

25 Witch's Arête

A little top-rope fun on the arête left of Witches Cauldron. Make your way up the arête making use of crimpers, fridge-hugging skills and/or delicate footwork.

15 Witches Cauldron (Variant Finish)

Start up W.C. until it is possible to step left into the chimney. Up this onto the pillar and straight up the hand crack to a trad placed belay below the 2nd pitch of W.C.

12 Witches Cauldron Pitch 1

Start marked 'WC'. A hundred ways to get up this twin cracked, 3 sided chimney! A better access pitch to 'Plume Ledge' than SAW.

12 Witches Cauldron Pitch 2

The way the route originally finished. Start on the L of Plume Ledge. A brutal grunt up the horribly tight body chimney directly above pitch 1. There is not a lot of gear but it doesn't matter as you are so stuck in this thing that it would be very hard to come out anyway! A must do for all aspiring guardians of Frog ethics!

14 Mr Frog

Up Witches Cauldron then through the body crack to finish up Witches Covert.

20 R Quick

Don't fall on this extremely under protected route... gravity will definitely win! Up Harlot for a move or two, then up the arete. Really classy moves, and quite enjoyable climbing. It's a pity the piton used on the first ascent didn't stay in! Some pro can be found in the crack around on the L face, but it won't help much if you fall near the top.

18 Harlot

A good and technical boulder problem to a stance at 3m. It's best to jump off here but if you must, strap on some knee pads and thrash for glory up the wide crack above.

16 Mrs Frog

Climb Witches Covert past ledge. Up hand crack until possible to step over into body crack then through to finish up Witches Cauldron.

18 Witches Covert

A good start up the 2 cracks R of Harlot up to a ledge. Negotiate the overhanging hand crack to the top chimney. The top is ugly, loose and unavoidable, but thankfully it is also very short.

19 Humility

A classic one-move wonder, the face R of WC. Start off the ledge on the R. Wobble up on thin and balancy moves until a jug on the L arete comes to hand. Easily up the line past a piton (hidden from view) to a tricky little mantle move at the ledge. Easily up to Plume ledge.

17 Humility (Left Variant)

Frog has recently had an outbreak of Phytophthora which very nearly caused the crag to be closed down.

QPWS are installing a boot scrub stations, please use these and stop the spread to other climbing areas.

For more information see: http://queenslandclimbing.yuku.com/topic/7354/Update-on-Frog-Closure

14 Psychedelic Apricot

A hard lead for a beginner, above a big ledge. Lay back the corner to the ledge. Easily to the top. A number 5 cam is essential to keep this lead safe. Bolted belay anchor.

15 Rest Area Ahead

A one move special, and a soft touch at the grade. Start at the obvious crack in the corner R of Humility. Up this with excellent protection to a ledge. Bumble easily to the top as for PA. Bolted belay anchor.

6 Saturday Afternoon Walk

The easiest climb on the cliff. Wander up the line of least resistance to the right of RAA. It's also a good way to get to Plume Ledge quickly.

16 R Saturday Afternoon Walk DS

Boulder up the unprotected pillar just left of Chocolate Watchband

18 Chocolate Watch Band

Great climbing up the pillar bisected by an ever widening crack. The crux is near the top, coming out of a cave into a fist jam section. Easily up and L to Plume Ledge.

23 Nosy Business

Up the blunt arete to the R of CW. Delicate and strenuous moves past 2 bolts. Veer L here with much difficulty and moaning to put a runner in CW to keep things sane. Continue up past 2 more bolts to the top.

18 Gladiator

An absolute classic at the grade, and a test piece jamming problem. Up the pumpy and strenuous hand crack, milking the numerous rests and stances as they come to hand. Some of the best hex placements at Frog are found here. Straight up to DRBB.

16 Christian

A gruntologist's dream. Clang your hexes for joy and release a tribal yelp before plunging head first into this body chimney. It climbs better than it looks. A serious lead however due to some questionable rock. Take big gear to keep it sane and somewhat safe.

Plume Ledge

7 Routes start from Plume Ledge. The first two routes "Bitching and Back-Stabbing" & "Midnight Lightning", start to the left of "Witches Cauldron pitch 2". All the others start to the right.

The easiest way to access the ledge is by climbing either 'Witches Cauldron' or 'Saturday Afternoon Walk'.

24 Bitching and Back Stabbing

Start on the far L side of the little ledge of ML. Move up the front of the detached pillar passing 2 bolts on the way. Not too bad.

23 Midnight Lightning

The dark corner capped by a small triangular rooflet really deserves to be more popular. Difficult and bold climbing on good gear leads to a tough move around the roof. A tough finger crack finishes off this classy route.

26 Inhibition

Hard and grunty climbing on one of the sexiest looking aretes to be found. Start off the little ledge above WC then slap, crimp and wobble your way up past 3 FH to the top. Avoid the temptation to grovel off L and you will be rewarded with some beautiful exit moves!

24 Instant Karma

Bold and risky face climbing. Start 1.5m L of ME. Up a short crack to the rest at a rooflet. Flail up the desperate face through the bulge with not a whole lot of protection! The upper wall is a little easier and quite classy, although you might be such a jibbering mess that you don't remember.

19 Midnight Express

Innocently evil! This fine-looking hand crack very quickly turns into a fiendish off-width. Some loose choss to negotiate when first entering the body crack. Most chock stones wobble until up high. Committing

19 Psychedelic Apricot Pitch Two

Although the climbing is actually quite good, the rock on this orange corner at half height is loose and hollow, so be cautious on the lead.

18 Plume

From the right side of 'Plume Ledge' (facing the cliff) Climb the obvious hand crack infront of a forked tree (belay). Great jamming up to a diagonal traverse right to a jug, then up the thinning crack trending slightly left on face holds to top mantle.

Faki Ledge

The next four climbs are on Faki Ledge. To reach this ledge, go up the 5m climb in the corner R of Plume called "That's not a Twelve".

20 Termination

Brilliant face climbing up the thin face on the far L of the ledge. Despite appearances, protection is excellent throughout the whole climb (provided you have RPs), and it is a must do at the grade.

16 Integrated Injection Logic

The twin crack system capped by a small roof to the L of Faki. A bumble up the start of this route will hopefully not dull the senses. Some tricky moves above adequate but slightly spaced protection see a good rest come to hand below the roof. Hand traverse L under the roof and around onto the face (crux). Strenuous and sustained moves to the top are sure to bring a smile to your face.

14 Faki

The best 14 here! The brilliant L facing corner is an excellent introduction to sustained bridging and jamming. Rap chain is visible just up from the ledge.

22 R Safe as Milk

Bold and strenuous climbing with not much in the way of good protection! Start at the crack just R of Faki on brilliant thin hand jamming. Fron here, pack your spare undies, move up the arete for a move or two, and then R and up through the bulge! Although there is adequate pro (just), it is still a very serious proposition.

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